Difficulties starting

Erikn89nl

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Have had this issue for a while, where starting takes a few seconds of cranking before firing up. It's been getting progressively worse, happens for any volume in tank, but has only recently been getting worse with low fuel.

I'm thinking fuel pressure related. I've recently fitted an uprated Sytec pump from B5, could I have made a mistake in fitting which can cause these issues, but no running issues whatsoever?

Or is the FPR on the way out? I did just chuck a bottle of fuel system cleaner through with the last tank of petrol, hasn't made a difference for this issue.

It's an AGU, so no wideband ECU, no AFR, no fuel trims...

Please help, oh knowledgeable crowd of ASN :)
 
Battery issues??

Starter Motor??
 
Hmm, I did have a code a while ago about too low voltage... Can anyone advise what voltages I need to see with engine off and running idle?
 
The next few times you start the car, put the key in and then turn it to accessories and you will hear a little wine coming behind you, this is the fuel pump priming. Once it stops (about 2 or 3 seconds later, see if the car starts straight away. If it does you can be almost certain it's the fuel pump.

When the car starts up does it splutter at all?
 
Did you change the fuel filter, as this can get overlooked quite often, or as you say it could be your fpr. Also do a throttle body clean, maf clean and ait sensor clean too.
 
if you have'nt fully pushed the sytec in then it wont prime properly.
I remove the lower screen when assembling them, and use vaseline on the o rings and push hard down so you ensure its fully engaged. Then pop on the lower screen into the lower suction point.
 
The next few times you start the car, put the key in and then turn it to accessories and you will hear a little wine coming behind you, this is the fuel pump priming. Once it stops (about 2 or 3 seconds later, see if the car starts straight away. If it does you can be almost certain it's the fuel pump.

When the car starts up does it splutter at all?
I always wait for the bluetooth on the headunit to connect, so the pump always primes. I hear it prime, too. No splutter, just cranks for a long time, before it fires up.

Did you change the fuel filter, as this can get overlooked quite often, or as you say it could be your fpr. Also do a throttle body clean, maf clean and ait sensor clean too.
Fuel filter was changed very recently, made no difference to the issue. TB is recently cleaned and aligned, MAF is new, AIT sensor was cleaned at the same time as the TB...

if you have'nt fully pushed the sytec in then it wont prime properly.
I remove the lower screen when assembling them, and use vaseline on the o rings and push hard down so you ensure its fully engaged. Then pop on the lower screen into the lower suction point.
I did do this while installing. It was very tight, but it did slide down. The top O-ring didn't seem to seal the top of the swirl pot. Could this be causing the issue? Is it possible to visually inspect if the pump is far enough into the swirl pot, or does tight mean good?

Can anyone advise what voltages I need to see with engine off and running idle?
Anyone?
 
Should be around 12.5v engine off and I'd expect to see it rise to 14v+ when the engines running. If you had a fault code for battery terminal 30 voltage too low, this is usually triggered by a battery disconnect at some point, so quite possibly an old stored code.
 
Should be around 12.5v engine off and I'd expect to see it rise to 14v+ when the engines running. If you had a fault code for battery terminal 30 voltage too low, this is usually triggered by a battery disconnect at some point, so quite possibly an old stored code.
That's the one, though it's not an old code, keeps coming back, without disconnecting the battery. Alternator on the way out?
 

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