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Detailing advice for a black, very contaminated car and an inexperienced owner!

dave_ph Jul 20, 2020

  1. dave_ph

    dave_ph Active Member VCDS Map User

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    Hi all,

    As the title suggests, I need advice!

    basically I’ve just got my A3 and it’s my first black car. It’s 9 years old with 90k miles and doesn’t look like it’s seen a proper polish/decontamination for years.

    I’ve clayed and polished before, but never a car needing it this badly.

    My current load out only consists of some meguires quick detailer and clay bar.

    I’ve need to keep costs down as much as possible, so what would you guys suggest I should that’s best value but effective? (From pre-wash right the way through to finish), and what steps should I take?

    I am tempted to invest in a machine polisher as well so any advice on this would be amazing.

    Here are a couple pics from the bonnet to show you the mountain I need to climb!

    408A9A64-CA18-4C18-9AE6-94227E3A148A.jpeg
    B00BB1B4-08E6-4C67-ADBD-FF862A15B63E.jpeg

    Help!

    Cheers
    Dave
     
    Shelders likes this.
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  3. Shelders

    Shelders Registered User

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    I could of written this post so tagging for replies.
     
  4. Rich76

    Rich76 Registered User

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    When I had mine I used
    Poorboys black hole
    Poorboys natty blue wax

    looked amazing , that I age was taken after driving 1000 miles across europe
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Kakatk

    Kakatk Registered User

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    I would start with a wash with a strong solutions of your normal car shampoo followed by tar & glue remover & then fall out remover, not sure if T&G first or second? Then clay bar & finally another wash. At this point you could polish, if you purchase a Daspro or similar or go the black hole route as previously mentioned.
     
  6. Shelders

    Shelders Registered User

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    Do you use the black hole by hand or DA polisher? I'm trying to save cash on my initial detailing purchases so if I can avoid buying a polisher for a bit that would be grand!
     
  7. RS03_SEN

    RS03_SEN Registered User

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    You won't hand polish that out.
    The photo above is a reflection and reflections mean absolutely nothing when it comes to showing swirls.

    Sent from my GM1913 using Tapatalk
     
    A4A4 likes this.
  8. JWAM

    JWAM Registered User

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    If you're looking to stock up on well priced products that work well bilt hamber would be my go to. Their snow foam works well, but not that thick. Korrasol (fall out remover) is amazing and tar remover is good, you can't go wrong with their concentrated shampoo or wheel cleaner either. By the time you've used good chemical decontamination their shouldn't be much to remove with clay.
    Black hole, as above, will mask some of the swirls as it's got a bit of pigment and filler in. Gives a bit of time to see if you want to head down the route of buying a da polisher, pads and polishes/compounds....
     
  9. RS03_SEN

    RS03_SEN Registered User

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    X2 on the bilt hamber. Cheap too. 16 quid for 5L snowfoam and it's the best out there.

    Sent from my GM1913 using Tapatalk
     
  10. 123Quattro

    123Quattro Guest

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    If it's me and I owned no detailing kit, I'd buy a DAS6 polisher and some medium cut pads in 3 and 5" and some Scholl s20 black and some good microfibre cloths. Finish it with a coating or sealant of your choice and call it a day :)
     
  11. Rich76

    Rich76 Registered User

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    All done by hand
     
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  13. Shelders

    Shelders Registered User

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    So I'm in situation where I can afford to buy either pressure washer or polisher at the moment. My plan was to go pressure washer then black hole by hand but not sure if its worth cleaning without washer and then getting polisher instead?
    All I have currently is bottle of ultimate compound - no other detailing items so starting with pretty much nothing.
     
  14. Paulbean

    Paulbean Registered User

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    Jet wash and black hole by hand for me on Mythos Black. Takes me about 7 hours to do snow foam, two bucket wash, polish then wax by hand.
     
  15. Sir Chumpalot

    Sir Chumpalot Registered User

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    Interested in the replies here as I'm in a similar boat.
     
  16. W55LSY

    W55LSY Registered User

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    I have a recently purchased BLACKLINE 2010 S3.

    Mission one, like you, was to get to the marks I could see on what I presumed was the actual paint. I knew it had so much wax/protectant applied over xx years as rain wouldn’t even stick to it!? Never seen anything like it.

    COSTS: ON BUDGET
    - Wax Remover - forget Meguiars etc. A simple CHEAP all purpose cleaner degreaser is more than sufficient. You will use a LOT

    - clay bar - clay is clay, however, it lasts. Go Premium brand for less than £10. It will do it all

    - clay bar lube - water and soap in a spray bottle . Enough said!

    - machine polisher - borrow one ideally. If not invest (£20). Forget brand names. It’s a shaft that spins. That’s all

    - polish - don’t skimp here. Autoglym/meguiars etc. I’m sure there’s cheaper that are just as good online

    - wax - how waxy do you want it? That’s your cost

    - spray detailer - personally i always have an £8 bottle of megusirs in the boot.

    Method so......
    1. General purpose cleaner. I stared at 1:50 ratio. I swiftly went to pretty much 1:1. It worked but my bonnet took about hour. I used a LOT. Hence, but cheap all purpose cleaner

    2. clay bar clay bar clay bar. Don’t use detailer for lubrication. Basic soap / water in a spray bottle

    3. Machine polish time. Major blemishes use a cutting agent first then progress accordingly. I had what looked like tree sap ‘spots’ from before any protectant/wax was applied.
    ADVICE: ONE PANEL (large) A DAY. DON’T RUSH IT
    4. Post polish (at LEAST 24hr in shade) wash again with with a ph neutral non wax/additive etc based standard cleaner/shampoo.
    5. Spray wipe/detail every inch of that car before dust/particles etc settle.
    6. WAX THE F**CKING LIFE OUT OF THAT CAR AS IF SHE AIN’t NEVER GONA BE NAKED AGAIN!

    this is the cheapest way I believe it can be done. I’m midway though on mine. The tips above are from detailing enthusiasts that I trust

    hope it helps and good luck!!!
     
    dave_ph likes this.
  17. W55LSY

    W55LSY Registered User

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    a pressure washer is not needed. Trust me.

    you may not even need a machine polisher. Until you get to the paint. You won’t know.

    You can do ALL this for £30 (minus machine polisher)

    I have a recently purchased BLACKLINE 2010 S3.

    Mission one, like you, was to get to the marks I could see on what I presumed was the actual paint. I knew it had so much wax/protectant applied over xx years as rain wouldn’t even stick to it!? Never seen anythinglike it.

    COSTS: ON BUDGET
    - Wax Remover - forget Meguiars etc. A simpleCHEAP all purpose cleaner degreaser is more than sufficient. You will use a LOT

    - clay bar - clay is clay, however, it lasts. Go Premium brand for less than £10. It will do it all

    - clay bar lube - water and soap in a spray bottle . Enough said!

    - machine polisher - borrow one ideally. If not invest (£20). Forget brand names. It’s a shaft that spins. That’s all

    - polish - don’t skimp here. Autoglym/meguiars etc. I’m sure there’s cheaper that are just as good online

    - wax - how waxy do you want it? That’s your cost

    - spray detailer - personally i always have an £8 bottle of megusirs in the boot.

    Method so......
    1. General purpose cleaner. I stared at 1:50 ratio. I swiftly went to pretty much 1:1. It worked but my bonnet took about hour. I used a LOT. Hence, but cheap all purpose cleaner

    2. clay bar clay bar clay bar. Don’t use detailer for lubrication. Basic soap / water in a spray bottle

    3. Machine polish time. Major blemishes use a cutting agent first then progress accordingly. I had what looked like tree sap ‘spots’ from before any protectant/wax was applied.
    ADVICE: ONE PANEL (large) A DAY. DON’T RUSH IT
    4. Post polish (at LEAST 24hr in shade) wash again with with a ph neutral non wax/additive etc basedstandard cleaner/shampoo.
    5. Spray wipe/detail every inch of that car beforedust/particles etc settle.
    6. WAX THE F**CKING LIFE OUT OF THAT CAR AS IF SHE AIN’t NEVER GONA BE NAKED AGAIN!

    this is the cheapest way I believe it can be done. I’m midway though on mine. The tips above are fromdetailing enthusiasts that I trust

    hope it helps and good luck!!!
     
  18. W55LSY

    W55LSY Registered User

    38
    4
    8

    you don’t need a pressure washer. quite the opposite. You may not need a machine polish either. You can strip your car naked, rectify and reseal for £30. + hard graft. One panel at a time is key.

    I have a recently purchased BLACKLINE 2010 S3.

    Mission one, like you, was to get to the marks I could see on what I presumed was the actual paint. I knew it had so much wax/protectant applied over xx years as rain wouldn’t even stick to it!? Never seen anythinglike it.

    COSTS: ON BUDGET
    - Wax Remover - forget Meguiars etc. A simpleCHEAP all purpose cleaner degreaser is more than sufficient. You will use a LOT. Hand wash ONE panel at a time

    - clay bar - clay is clay, however, it lasts. Go Premium brand for less than £10. It will do it all

    - clay bar lube - water and soap in a spray bottle . Enough said!

    - machine polisher - borrow one ideally. If not invest (£20). Forget brand names. It’s a shaft that spins. That’s all

    - polish - don’t skimp here. Autoglym/meguiars etc. I’m sure there’s cheaper that are just as good online

    - wax - how waxy do you want it? That’s your cost

    - spray detailer - personally i always have an £8 bottle of megusirs in the boot.

    Method so......
    1. General purpose cleaner. I stared at 1:50 ratio. I swiftly went to pretty much 1:1. It worked but my bonnet took about hour. I used a LOT. Hence, but cheap all purpose cleaner

    2. clay bar clay bar clay bar. Don’t use detailer for lubrication. Basic soap / water in a spray bottle

    3. Machine polish time. Major blemishes use a cutting agent first then progress accordingly. I had what looked like tree sap ‘spots’ from before any protectant/wax was applied.
    ADVICE: ONE PANEL (large) A DAY. DON’T RUSH IT

    4. Post polish (at LEAST 24hr in shade) wash again with with a ph neutral non wax/additive etc basedstandard cleaner/shampoo.
    5. Spray wipe/detail every inch of that car beforedust/particles etc settle.
    6. WAX THE F**CKING LIFE OUT OF THAT CAR AS IF SHE AIN’t NEVER GONA BE NAKED AGAIN!

    this is the cheapest way I believe it can be done. I’m midway though on mine. The tips above are fromdetailing enthusiasts that I trust

    hope it helps and good luck!!!
     
    Sir Chumpalot likes this.
  19. Sir Chumpalot

    Sir Chumpalot Registered User

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    That's really helpful, thanks W55LSY. Your point about doing one panel per day I think is the key to getting this done to a decent standard.

    Could you recommend an all purpose cleaner to use please? I'm slowly building up a small list of must have cleaning products.
     
  20. Nickyc

    Nickyc Registered User

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    Black is the worst for showing up swirls. As said above, invest in a machine polisher and the DAS 6 Pro is probably your best bet factoring its cost as well. You simply are not going to get many of them out by hand. Also I personally wouldnt clay a car unless I was machining it after, as the clay, not matter what will create its own marring on the paint too. I would probably do chemical decons instead of clay if not using a machine after. Not saying you cant get it all out by hand, but it will be extremely hard work.
     

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