Dash isn't coming on at all, and engine start blocked.

benny279

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Hi,

Today I tried to start my car to no luck, although it tries to start but for a measly 2 seconds then cuts out as if there isn't enough juice for it. I hooked it up on a friends vagcom to be greeted with "Engine start blocked by immobilizer".

Correctly so, I checked for other errors to find "Incorrect key" or something a long those lines...So I tried my spare key and that didn't work either threw same error. The only things work is lights, stereo (now thats in some sort of safe mode since disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it after 20 mins or so) but that isn't a big deal at the moment, I've tried to do my windows down and that didn't respond and putting the hazards on button blinks but no noise from it?

A friend of mine puts his money on it being a dead battery, though, looking through some other threads that isn't related to my car points at being bad earths, a bad cluster and such and I really don't fancy just guessing and throwing money at it when it could be a simple fix.

I must add that, there has not been any modifications done to the car recently but it did have it's exhaust clamp replaced but highly doubt that has any bearing on this issue. :p

Hopefully someone can point in me the right direction, or least give me some hints at what could be the most likely cause.

Thanks in advance!
 
The clocks contains your immobiliser, if your clocks don't work then your immobiliser won't disengage.
 
Which I totally understand, so does this mean new clocks or battery even fuses? I feel that it can't be just that as windows aren't going down or up though locking and unlocking doors works fine on both keys. Never seen a problem like this before even when I had an '04 A3 and that had it's share of problems but nothing like this. It was working fine last night started up ok dash worked.

Thanks for the reply!
 
Something to try, take both terminals off the battery and connect the together for 15 minutes then connect them back to the battery and see if it sorts itself out.
 
My spare key did this, a lot of people said maybe the key just needed re programming. Which I guess yours did on its own lol
 
I have tried disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes and even 20 minutes, it makes no difference other than my stereo now says 'Safe Code'. I tried another tip I saw on another thread disconnecting the negative on the battery and reconnecting it after a minute or so again no difference.

I then tried some of the functions in the car the windows as before still don't work at all not even up or down, heating works to some degree but you cant activate the windscreen button it just illuminates and turns off in a matter of seconds. The lock/unlock siwtch on drivers door only works for unlocking not locking it doesn't respond? But locking the car from the key to the fob its fine but that door switch isn't working fully.

And as mentioned initally on vagcom it mentoned "Incorrect Key" and as person mentioned above about re-programmig I don't know how to do that, is there some vagcom option for this or is it a specialist thing? And Supply voltage for the battery is 12.4v.

I'm out of options other than getting the key re-programmed other than that I'm clueless.

I have just tried to jumpstart the car and no luck guess the battery can be ruled out.

Thanks in advance.
 
I have tried disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes and even 20 minutes, it makes no difference other than my stereo now says 'Safe Code'. I tried another tip I saw on another thread disconnecting the negative on the battery and reconnecting it after a minute or so again no difference.

I then tried some of the functions in the car the windows as before still don't work at all not even up or down, heating works to some degree but you cant activate the windscreen button it just illuminates and turns off in a matter of seconds. The lock/unlock siwtch on drivers door only works for unlocking not locking it doesn't respond? But locking the car from the key to the fob its fine but that door switch isn't working fully.

And as mentioned initally on vagcom it mentoned "Incorrect Key" and as person mentioned above about re-programmig I don't know how to do that, is there some vagcom option for this or is it a specialist thing? And Supply voltage for the battery is 12.4v.

I'm out of options other than getting the key re-programmed other than that I'm clueless.

I have just tried to jumpstart the car and no luck guess the battery can be ruled out.

Thanks in advance.

I'm sure it can be done on Vagcom, see if there's anyone in your area that has one on the VCDS Map, if not surely there has to be a specialist near you that can? Failing that I guess it'll have to be Audi themselves, which is of course last option lol
 
I'm sure it can be done on Vagcom, see if there's anyone in your area that has one on the VCDS Map, if not surely there has to be a specialist near you that can? Failing that I guess it'll have to be Audi themselves, which is of course last option lol

I'm confused surely if the clocks aren't turning on, isn't it pointless sorting the key? Or am I missing the point lol as my clocks aren't functioning at all. And I do have a VAG Specialist not far from me but I explained the situation and they said I have to take it to the dealers this is what C&R told me.

They also mentioned it can be one of three things, cluster, immobilizer and key...and taking to the dealers is always a last option! lol I shall check VCDS map see who's local to me.

Thanks for the reply.
 
I'm confused surely if the clocks aren't turning on, isn't it pointless sorting the key? Or am I missing the point lol as my clocks aren't functioning at all. And I do have a VAG Specialist not far from me but I explained the situation and they said I have to take it to the dealers this is what C&R told me.

They also mentioned it can be one of three things, cluster, immobilizer and key...and taking to the dealers is always a last option! lol I shall check VCDS map see who's local to me.

Thanks for the reply.

I'm not well versed so take what I say with a pinch of salt lol it's just my car did the same thing with the spare key, it cranked but didn't start and the glow plug light didn't go off. I guess it's best to take it to someone who knows these things
 
I'm not well versed so take what I say with a pinch of salt lol it's just my car did the same thing with the spare key, it cranked but didn't start and the glow plug light didn't go off. I guess it's best to take it to someone who knows these things

Aha no worries, I appreciate any input my issue is similar but I'm not even getting a single light on the dash no needles move such as fuel as you'd expect to see turning ignition on. However, I will try to get the keys re-programmed.
 
Aha no worries, I appreciate any input my issue is similar but I'm not even getting a single light on the dash no needles move such as fuel as you'd expect to see turning ignition on. However, I will try to get the keys re-programmed.

Yes the funny thing with yours is the fact that no light wants to come in :/ it could be a clock issue when you look at it from that angle, but as I said best to get checked out by someone in the know rather than filling your head up with 100 things which will only stress you out more lol
 
Remove the cluster, disconnect plug on back and reconnect it to try and reboot it.
 
sounds like you've lost a live feed from the dash etc even if you took the clocks out the windows would still work plus the other things .
could do with vcds for a diagnostic to check the status of all the modules see if you can access the can gateway module .
have you checked the fuses and conections in the under bonnet fuse box and the relays in there ?
i would start from there and work logically into the cars wiring and fuses first .
as alot of the under bonnet fusible links supply alot of fuses in the indash fusebox for different things at once.
try checking the 80amp fuse no5 (5th from left looking from front on front of fusebox) as this is the main fuse for windows,convienince sytems etc in the car
 
I have a done a thorough scan of the car today to discover other errors such as "Engine Control Module - No communication", "Incorrect Immobilizer Key", "Instrument cluster no communication", "000 - Coding not possible" ( I have no idea on this coding thing as I haven't touched any coding on this car, but comes back regardless of clearing codes...). I checked all fuses and all seem to be fine, but now since doing that car won't even try to start you just hear the starter. I fear from all this that its something major? I could be wrong but I am thinking all sorts.

It also mentions about "Steering angle sensor" all these issues were non-existent before the main issue occurred!

I have arranged my friend to send out a tow truck on Monday to collect it, as I'm not expert when it comes to big issues like this, smaller issues I can normally tackle them on my own.

I appreciate everyones help so far!!!!

Thanks in advance.
 
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I have a done a thorough scan of the car today to discover other errors such as "Engine Control Module - No communication", "Incorrect Immobilizer Key", "Instrument cluster no communication", "000 - Coding not possible" ( I have no idea on this coding thing as I haven't touched any coding on this car, but comes back regardless of clearing codes...). I checked all fuses and all seem to be fine, but now since doing that car won't even try to start you just hear the starter. I fear from all this that its something major? I could be wrong but I am thinking all sorts.

It also mentions about "Steering angle sensor" all these issues were non-existent before the main issue occurred!

I have arranged my friend to send out a tow truck on Monday to collect it, as I'm not expert when it comes to big issues like this, smaller issues I can normally tackle them on my own.

I appreciate everyones help so far!!!!

Thanks in advance.

You can check RossTech Wiki (just search it on google) and see if you can find something in relation to it. If not, best to get it down to a garage, but make sure it's people who know what they're doing! Sometimes one thing can throw off a lot of things, so maybe one problem is causing a domino effect.
 
You can check RossTech Wiki (just search it on google) and see if you can find something in relation to it. If not, best to get it down to a garage, but make sure it's people who know what they're doing! Sometimes one thing can throw off a lot of things, so maybe one problem is causing a domino effect.

I've checked RossTech Wiki earlier and I didn't like what I read so I closed the page lol my friend has all sorts of contacts in the trade and plus I can get discount! ;)
 
I've checked RossTech Wiki earlier and I didn't like what I read so I closed the page lol my friend has all sorts of contacts in the trade and plus I can get discount! ;)

Haha that's like when you have a headache and you check google to see what it can be and it says you may have a brain tumour haha!! Oh, well get your car to a garage ASAP and fix the damn thing! Lol
 
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Haha that's like when you have a headache and you check google to see what it can be and it says you may have a brain tumour haha!! Oh, well get your car to a garage ASAP and fix the damn thing! Lol

I've done that before....... :)

Got confirmation from my friend and a tow tuck will be coming mine first thing on Monday! :D
 
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Will do, thanks for your help though and everyone else's input highly appreciated! :)
 
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Update:

I had to replace the battery as it was weak in the end and no history of it being changed, but, this didn't cure the issue all fuses have been checked and all fine. Which leaves me with the cluster itself, a friend mine suggested BBA Reman for repairs.

Does anyone know if they are good, price is around £140 (excl VAT) as I've seen on other threads people have replaced the cluster and problem has gone away.

Lastly, if they can't repair it how much would I be looking at if I had to get one from the dealers?

Thanks in advance.
 
I'm not too sure about repairs but you can get a used cluster for cheap, a member on here was going to sell me one for £20 with DIS. eBay will be a little more I guess. The expensive part is coding your immobiliser and then mileage correction which only Audi or certain people can do.
 
That is a option but my question is, if I was to go down that route and put the used cluster in would it start and drive so that Audi would only have to recode it? Or would the car have to be towed to them?
 
That is a option but my question is, if I was to go down that route and put the used cluster in would it start and drive so that Audi would only have to recode it? Or would the car have to be towed to them?

I'm guessing it won't start because the immobiliser won't allow it, hence why you have to get the immobiliser coded for your car to accept it. There might be people out there other than Audi that can come to you? Others might know of some people, I seen on anther thread but can't remember what their names were or where I read it lol
 
I'm guessing it won't start because the immobiliser won't allow it, hence why you have to get the immobiliser coded for your car to accept it. There might be people out there other than Audi that can come to you? Others might know of some people, I seen on anther thread but can't remember what their names were or where I read it lol

Yeah silly question aha, it would be great if I could find someone so I could least save a few pennies. :p Though I think just having the cluster repaired is the only cheapest option available at this point of time, which is around £140 with vat ontop so would be £168 then shipping costs via UPS. I'd imagine a new unit from Audi would exceed these figures.... :D
 
Yeah silly question aha, it would be great if I could find someone so I could least save a few pennies. :p Though I think just having the cluster repaired is the only cheapest option available at this point of time, which is around £140 with vat ontop so would be £168 then shipping costs via UPS. I'd imagine a new unit from Audi would exceed these figures.... :D

Yes I guess at this point that's the best solution as long as it is definitely the problem, if not that's a waste of £170. Audi probably charge you the same price of a house lol
 
Yes I guess at this point that's the best solution as long as it is definitely the problem, if not that's a waste of £170. Audi probably charge you the same price of a house lol

Well I had an auto-electrican come out yesterday to inspect the car, he couldn't find anything out of the oridinary. I've checked loads of threads maybe not A3 related (some were) but for VW's and Audi's in general and it keeps coming back to replace cluster and people have had luck doing that. Even the electrican said the errors I have were mainly duplicates of one error. I guess the only way for me to actually find out if the cluster is ******** is buy one off the net to test it in the car if it powers then its cluster if not then its something else, but that means wasting money lol.

I appreciate your help though as this issue isn't exactly easy to figure out without having the car physically in front of you.
 
Well I had an auto-electrican come out yesterday to inspect the car, he couldn't find anything out of the oridinary. I've checked loads of threads maybe not A3 related (some were) but for VW's and Audi's in general and it keeps coming back to replace cluster and people have had luck doing that. Even the electrican said the errors I have were mainly duplicates of one error. I guess the only way for me to actually find out if the cluster is ******** is buy one off the net to test it in the car if it powers then its cluster if not then its something else, but that means wasting money lol.

I appreciate your help though as this issue isn't exactly easy to figure out without having the car physically in front of you.

I'm just using the little common sense that I have to try figure out what is it lol but it seems really tricky, most electrical problems are tbh. You've already taken it to a VAG specialist and had it diagnosed?

No worries mate :)
 
I'm just using the little common sense that I have to try figure out what is it lol but it seems really tricky, most electrical problems are tbh. You've already taken it to a VAG specialist and had it diagnosed?

No worries mate :)

I tried C&R Enterprise a VAG Specialist near me, they said take it to the dealers as it's a problem between cluster, immobilizer and key they didn't meantion anything else. I did ask if they can sort it but they refused. Said repairing these clusters is a major headache.

There's no point me trying other VAG Specialist when one has refused the job.

I did mention about the errors I have but they said it's just a simple case of one error causing a chain of errors that are non-existent which is true the errors it has were definitely not there before the issue arised.
 
I tried C&R Enterprise a VAG Specialist near me, they said take it to the dealers as it's a problem between cluster, immobilizer and key they didn't meantion anything else. I did ask if they can sort it but they refused. Said repairing these clusters is a major headache.

There's no point me trying other VAG Specialist when one has refused the job.

I did mention about the errors I have but they said it's just a simple case of one error causing a chain of errors that are non-existent which is true the errors it has were definitely not there before the issue arised.

Ahh that's okay then, you've tried so best route now probably is a cluster. If you've read a lot of threads on cluster fixing your issue then I guess that you're right in going down that route.
 
Ahh that's okay then, you've tried so best route now probably is a cluster. If you've read a lot of threads on cluster fixing your issue then I guess that you're right in going down that route.

Yeah I've tried probably about every cheap option there is, so I will arrange for the repair tomorrow and will report back once the cluster has been returned to me and fitted. :)
 
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Just had a quick read but my case I can't even access the instrument cluster vagcom as the controller doesn't respond, funny though vagcom said the MIL is on lol I have read about the shorting thing but Im slightly skeptical about that especially on these newer cars or is it worth a try?
 
Just had a quick read but my case I can't even access the instrument cluster vagcom as the controller doesn't respond, funny though vagcom said the MIL is on lol I have read about the shorting thing but Im slightly skeptical about that especially on these newer cars or is it worth a try?

Tbh what they're saying makes no sense to me if it does to you then it's worth a try? I'd try everything before forking out £170 lol
 
Tbh what they're saying makes no sense to me if it does to you then it's worth a try? I'd try everything before forking out £170 lol

I understood it :D it'd be my last try if it doesn't work then well yeah i'll condemn the cluster faulty, i did read somewhere that these clusters usually give you a warning of problem but in my case it never warned me.

My wipers don't even work from the stalk nor windows which makes it all more confusing, it does sound like either ECM has lost adaption to one ore more modules or the cluster has given up. Usuaully it's the LCD displays to go wrong than the whole cluster going lol.
 
I understood it :D it'd be my last try if it doesn't work then well yeah i'll condemn the cluster faulty, i did read somewhere that these clusters usually give you a warning of problem but in my case it never warned me.

My wipers don't even work from the stalk nor windows which makes it all more confusing, it does sound like either ECM has lost adaption to one ore more modules or the cluster has given up. Usuaully it's the LCD displays to go wrong than the whole cluster going lol.

Yes at least then you can say you tried literally everything under the sun lol it probably is an adaptation issue, seems like something isn't getting along. Keep us updated
 
Yes at least then you can say you tried literally everything under the sun lol it probably is an adaptation issue, seems like something isn't getting along. Keep us updated

Will do! :)
 
wipers and windows not working suggests its an electrical fault not a cluster fault . check the relay board under the dash ,or the bordnetz above it .
something is a miss . a faulty cluster wouldn't stop the windows working neither the wipers . so to me its a missing +v feed
 
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wipers and windows not working suggests its an electrical fault not a cluster fault . check the relay board under the dash ,or the bordnetz above it .
something is a miss . a faulty cluster wouldn't stop the windows working neither the wipers . so to me its a missing +v feed

I should mention that also heating doesn't work, for rear window nor windscreen you just press the button and it goes off immediately. do you what relay I need to look at? I heard about a relay 109 which is suppose to be power supply?

Thanks.