Dash Cam Installation Discussion

Minion Bob!

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Hi Guys

So I bought a Dash Cam at long last, I was set on buying the Blackview DR650 but surprisingly had the DAB issue when I plugged it all in. In the end after looking at some footage of the Lukas 7950 I’ve settled on that, it’s a “bit bigger” than the Blackview but I listen to the radio all the time so couldn’t compromise.

I’ve had a look around on the forum about wiring etc. and I’m a little confused so was hoping I could pick the brains of those on here and have a discussion as I’ve never done anything like this before. Willing to do a full write up with pictures too if any would like to see it once this all goes into the car.

So the Lukas has the power safety device built into the camera so that gets rid of an extra step. The system has three cables.

  • Red ACC+ (I’ve gathered this is the one that needs to be connected to something that’s on when the ignition is on)
  • Yellow BAT + (to a constant feed)
  • Black (Ground cable)

My question is there appear to also be fuses attached to these cables already (I’ve had a look too and they don’t say what voltage), I’m thinking of cutting these fuses off and using a fuse tap with a proper fuse or wiring them in directly with these fuses. What would you guys say is the better option? Also if the red cable goes into the fuse tap (correct???) where does the yellow cable go into?



Upload 2015 7 8 11 49 58

Upload 2015 7 8 11 50 59


Edit: My camera is also covering the sensor on the back of the rear view mirror. Now I used it like this in place last night and the anti dazzle seemed fine but am I correct in thinking theres two sensors or something then?
 
Fuses don't have voltages as such, only current. A fuse rated at 10A@250v will blow at 10A@12v.
The voltage on a fuse is purely to indicate the max safe working voltage (OK, there are special cases and 'fuses' with transient suppressors etc built in.....)

RichT
 
I've also got a Lukas ACE series camera and have wiring very similar to what you have shown, with the addition of a battery protection system. The B+ wire needs to be connected to a constant 12v battery and the ACC wire is ignition controlled.

My uncle, who is a master tech for VW, has suggested that these be connected to fuses SC29 and SC47 respectively. The ground can be connected to the car in a space to the left of the glovebox, if you open your passenger door and remove the cover on the end of the dash, there is a bolt you can remove and attach your ground to (where the old fuse box use to be in the 8P).

I have attached some fuse box diagrams in the hope they will help. I also have the fuse assignment pages from the ELSA manual I can send you if you like.

image.jpg1.jpg

image.jpg1_1.jpg
 
I've also got a Lukas ACE series camera and have wiring very similar to what you have shown, with the addition of a battery protection system. The B+ wire needs to be connected to a constant 12v battery and the ACC wire is ignition controlled.

My uncle, who is a master tech for VW, has suggested that these be connected to fuses SC29 and SC47 respectively. The ground can be connected to the car in a space to the left of the glovebox, if you open your passenger door and remove the cover on the end of the dash, there is a bolt you can remove and attach your ground to (where the old fuse box use to be in the 8P).

I have attached some fuse box diagrams in the hope they will help. I also have the fuse assignment pages from the ELSA manual I can send you if you like.

image.jpg1.jpg

image.jpg1_1.jpg

Cool I've had a look at these and those two correspond to interior lighting (which should be always on) and the rear wiper (ignition on). How did you wire yours in if your dont mind me asking @Wondering Soul if you have a pic or something :)
 
Fuses don't have voltages as such, only current. A fuse rated at 10A@250v will blow at 10A@12v.
The voltage on a fuse is purely to indicate the max safe working voltage (OK, there are special cases and 'fuses' with transient suppressors etc built in.....)

RichT

Interesting stuff! learn something new everyday. If I'm using a fuse tap, I'd cut the fuses off the one's on the wire correct, as you cant have two fuses! What fuse should I put into the fuse tap for the camera?
 
Interesting stuff! learn something new everyday. If I'm using a fuse tap, I'd cut the fuses off the one's on the wire correct, as you cant have two fuses! What fuse should I put into the fuse tap for the camera?

It's not necessary to remove the inline fuses if you don't want to, won't do any harm to have both sets of fuses wired in.

You'll need two fuse taps, one for the red wire and one for the yellow.

Personally I'd leave the original fuses in, get two fuse taps and stick 5A fuses in them, should be more than enough and the original fuses will have the correct rating anyway so you're covered.

Make sure you get the right size of fuse taps for the fuses that you will be tapping off - there are 2 different sizes in the fusebox.
 
Interesting stuff! learn something new everyday. If I'm using a fuse tap, I'd cut the fuses off the one's on the wire correct, as you cant have two fuses! What fuse should I put into the fuse tap for the camera?

You can have as many fuses in line as you want, the lowest value one will blow first and that's it. As for value, use the lowest value that doesn't blow during normal use....in reality, the fuse is normally there to protect the cable more than anything else.
 
Cool I've had a look at these and those two correspond to interior lighting (which should be always on) and the rear wiper (ignition on). How did you wire yours in if your dont mind me asking @Wondering Soul if you have a pic or something :)
No worries. Mine also has in-line fuses and I have left these in place. I haven't actually fitted it yet, planning on getting it done on Saturday when I have the time away from work. I have just been getting all the information ready to do it this weekend, I will post up a detailed guide with some pictures when I get round to it on Saturday!
 
No worries. Mine also has in-line fuses and I have left these in place. I haven't actually fitted it yet, planning on getting it done on Saturday when I have the time away from work. I have just been getting all the information ready to do it this weekend, I will post up a detailed guide with some pictures when I get round to it on Saturday!
Sounds good I thought I'd get round to it this week as I'm on annual leave but just got so many other things to do. Ordered the fuse taps off amazon but delivery is next week!!!! ... Where'd ya mange to get yours from?
 
Sounds good I thought I'd get round to it this week as I'm on annual leave but just got so many other things to do. Ordered the fuse taps off amazon but delivery is next week!!!! ... Where'd ya mange to get yours from?
Got mine from Amazon as well. Have used them from here in the past and have always been a good fit. Need to ensure a good connection between the blades on the adapter and the terminals in the fuse box as VW group aren't known for the best of contacts in their fuse boxes!

Edit: despite the fact I ordered these fuse taps on Tuesday, my delivery date won't be until next Monday at the earliest apparently. Looks like fitting this weekend won't be happening then! Delivery options in the UK are shocking! Shouldn't have to wait more than a day, ever! /rant
 
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Got mine from Amazon as well. Have used them from here in the past and have always been a good fit. Need to ensure a good connection between the blades on the adapter and the terminals in the fuse box as VW group aren't known for the best of contacts in their fuse boxes!

Edit: despite the fact I ordered these fuse taps on Tuesday, my delivery date won't be until next Monday at the earliest apparently. Looks like fitting this weekend won't be happening then! Delivery options in the UK are shocking! Shouldn't have to wait more than a day, ever! /rant

Any chance you bought them from conair? Just been given a ridiculous delivery date of next Friday after being dispatched today!!!!
 
Any chance you bought them from conair? Just been given a ridiculous delivery date of next Friday after being dispatched today!!!!
Mine are coming from 'co-star' apparently. Have a couple hours away from work this afternoon so am heading into town to see if they have any in a local car electronics place!
 
Mine are coming from 'co-star' apparently. Have a couple hours away from work this afternoon so am heading into town to see if they have any in a local car electronics place!

Sorry that's the same company, didn't remember the name correctly!
 
I'll have to catch up on this thread after work and give it a good read. I recently switched my 'always on' fuse from one of the standard sized ones (4WD system I believe) to a mini one (currently on the 'convenience key system' fuse) after a bit of soldering last weekend. It's much better but still occasionally loses power. I'll have to try a different mini fuse to try and keep it on full power. The MMI one (top left) was recommended but it's extremely difficult to get to for me! Behind the glove box panel pretty much.
 
Yeah their delivery seems to be a bit of a joke! Upon getting into town the store I went to doesn't sell the correct size piggy back circuits, they only sold mini-blade products and didn't have the larger ones in stock! Nightmare!

@cemerson I was told to keep clear of the gearbox and drive related fuses if you have an S-Tronic box. My uncle has seen several vehicles in the past 2 years come in on a trailer with gearbox malfunctions due to the blades in the add-a-circuit fuses not being exactly the same width as OE parts and not providing a good enough contact between the box and the fuse, this can lead to your park lock being engaged and not wanting to disable in the way its described in the manual!
 
Yeah their delivery seems to be a bit of a joke! Upon getting into town the store I went to doesn't sell the correct size piggy back circuits, they only sold mini-blade products and didn't have the larger ones in stock! Nightmare!

@cemerson I was told to keep clear of the gearbox and drive related fuses if you have an S-Tronic box. My uncle has seen several vehicles in the past 2 years come in on a trailer with gearbox malfunctions due to the blades in the add-a-circuit fuses not being exactly the same width as OE parts and not providing a good enough contact between the box and the fuse, this can lead to your park lock being engaged and not wanting to disable in the way its described in the manual!

Yup I've given up on trying stores... did that yesterday and most them look at you like why are you doing that just splice the wires and soldier... Truly frustrating as I'd rather do this for warranty reasons but they don't seem to understand.... On a brighter note my fuse taps have been dispatched. Hopefully they arrive slightly earlier than expected (15-20 July :anguished::anguished: I've had stuff sent by normal US Mail to the UK come before that!!! )
 
Yup I've given up on trying stores... did that yesterday and most them look at you like why are you doing that just splice the wires and soldier... Truly frustrating as I'd rather do this for warranty reasons but they don't seem to understand.... On a brighter note my fuse taps have been dispatched. Hopefully they arrive slightly earlier than expected (15-20 July :anguished::anguished: I've had stuff sent by normal US Mail to the UK come before that!!! )
Yeah it is pretty frustrating !

On my previous car I had Audi install it for me, they wired it into the fusebox using these (or something very similar) and it worked fine for 3 years ! Had an issue with the rear window heater and a small coolant leak on the car within a month of picking it up and whilst it was in I asked if they could wire it in using the supplied electronics and they did it without even charging me for the labour !
 
Yeah their delivery seems to be a bit of a joke! Upon getting into town the store I went to doesn't sell the correct size piggy back circuits, they only sold mini-blade products and didn't have the larger ones in stock! Nightmare!

@cemerson I was told to keep clear of the gearbox and drive related fuses if you have an S-Tronic box. My uncle has seen several vehicles in the past 2 years come in on a trailer with gearbox malfunctions due to the blades in the add-a-circuit fuses not being exactly the same width as OE parts and not providing a good enough contact between the box and the fuse, this can lead to your park lock being engaged and not wanting to disable in the way its described in the manual!

Ha cheers, I'll keep that in mind.
 
Having read the rest of the thread now...

I cut the inline fuses off mine, and just used the equivalent amperage ones in the fuse taps instead. If one blows, it'll be a massive pain to replace those inline ones as they are buried behind a dash panel somewhere, not as accessible as the ones in the taps.

I'll have to try hooking mine up to the suggested fuses in the first post later I think, and see what happens.
 
Right so popped into Halfords to grab some fuses and guess what! they had the Fuse Taps in stock.... Also got myself some cable ties and insulation tape from screwfix so going to start this now... Not sure if I should take pictures or anything and do a write up...
 
Might as well. Always helps having a few guides around.
 
One of the things I like about the way I did mine is the small rubber grommet I used in the mirror trim. Makes it look so neat when you notice it, it's awesome. Just get a hold of some small rubber cable grommets, cut one open and open it up into a U shape, trim as appropriate... then wedge it in there when you put the mirror trim back on, over the cables. Cheap addition and worth it for the professional look!
 
One of the things I like about the way I did mine is the small rubber grommet I used in the mirror trim. Makes it look so neat when you notice it, it's awesome. Just get a hold of some small rubber cable grommets, cut one open and open it up into a U shape, trim as appropriate... then wedge it in there when you put the mirror trim back on, over the cables. Cheap addition and worth it for the professional look!
Thats a brilliant idea! didnt think of that, not that happy with the little bit sticking out so might try that approach.

It took me so long to do the front cam that I've just laid the back cable on the floor for now and stuck the camera on the boot near the 3rd break light so will need to give some real attention to the back cam when I have some more time.

Took some pictures too so will write a guide when I get round to it.
 
Thats a brilliant idea! didnt think of that, not that happy with the little bit sticking out so might try that approach.

It took me so long to do the front cam that I've just laid the back cable on the floor for now and stuck the camera on the boot near the 3rd break light so will need to give some real attention to the back cam when I have some more time.

Took some pictures too so will write a guide when I get round to it.

Off topic. ----- Noticed your avatar, the new movie "Minions" is being
released today. I just love those little buggers! :yes:
 
Off topic. ----- Noticed your avatar, the new movie "Minions" is being
released today. I just love those little buggers! :yes:

Hahaha! Good off topic! I actually changed my name to this because my dealer knew about this forum but I've stuck with the name minion bob LOL!!! I've assuming your in the US then, it was released in the UK about 2 weeks ago, pretty funny movie although a bit of a disappointment if youd seen all the trailers! Keeps the kids happy though :)
 
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Hahaha! Good off topic! I actually changed my name to this because my dealer knew about this forum but I've stuck with the name minion bob LOL!!! I've assuming your in the US then, it was released in the UK about 2 weeks ago, pretty funny movie although a bit of a disappointment if youd seen all the trailers! Keeps the kids happy though :)

Hi Minion Bob,
Yes, I am from the U.S. I guess we are behind you guys
time wise in the movies. It also keeps us " Grown-Kids" happy too!
 
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Hi Minion Bob,
Yes, I am from the U.S. I guess we are behind you guys
time wise in the movies. It also keeps us " Grown-Kids" happy too!

Thats true! infact finding myself watching more and more of these animation movies and you know what they're not that bad! Hope you enjoy the movie @Blackwhite!!!
 
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So my alarm went off for no reason now at midnight, or what I think is no reason, went to check the camera but no footage had been recorded so seems that the interior lighting fuse may not be constant on, do you have any thoughts on what other fuse I could use?

The camera does work when the car is on so my circuit does work.... just not sure why its not recording while the car is switched off.
 
Thinking about these dash cams and all the wiring.... given that it is *possible* for the A3/S3 to setup a wireless access point using a SIM card, would it then make sense to then start looking at the new wireless dash cams?
 
I'm not sure what else is 'supposed' to be live to be honest. I haven't had the time this weekend to even look at it to be honest..
 
I used F26 (Seat Heating) and F40 (12v sockets) for my camera and haven't had any issues. I always go for circuits which aren't essential to the running of the car, just in case there is a problem.

81b23853a79f604a943ee4d734bdb590.jpg
 
I think @mjcourtney said he used the MMI mini fuse (top left of the block of mini fuses, #12 I think) for always on and had no problems. It's ****** difficult to get to though!
 
Got another problem now the lukas 7950 is cutting out my DAB radio so going to return it, only reason I bought it over the blackview and if that's the case I'd prefer the blackview which had less cut out in any case. So will get the black view prior to trying the above. Thanks guys

On a brighter note @Wondering Soul the fuse taps from co star arrived today
 
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Mine are yet to make an appearance! Interested to hear how you get on with the new camera.
 

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