D3S to D1S Headlight Conversion

PenttisHSR

Registered User
My OE Bulbs are 7 years old now and will have dimmed, so new replacements would be an improvement in any case.
There was a definite improvement when I replaced the bulbs on my old B5.
D1S run at double the voltage of D3S.
D3S is the eco-friendly & mercury-free modern version.
Other than EM Tuning, I can find no light output comparisons between the two.
 

jdp1962

Grumpy Old Man

PenttisHSR

Registered User
Kit has arrived.

Converts D3S to D1S, [42v to 84v] also uses 50W Ballast (to replace std 35W) which drives Bulb at 50W so ~30% more Lumens.
So the 35W 6000k Bulb runs hotter ~5000k colour and shortened lifespan.
Top quality Bulb to take the heat. Osram CBI.
[HID bulbs have no wattage rating (even though I know it says on most bulbs), the ballast and igniter combo regulates that wattage, so the same bulbs can be used for a 1w ballast or a 100w ballast].

Will fit next week.
 
Wonder how much further an improvement T8ups ‘s clear lens kit for the projector provide with the DS1 kit ?
 

PenttisHSR

Registered User
That would mean splitting the headlights and resealing (without melting anything along the way).
If you are prepared to go that far, then you may as well fit better projectors altogether in the first place.
 

PenttisHSR

Registered User
So, I've had this conversion for a month now and all is well.
I have had a couple of night time 2 hours each way journeys to North Wales in wet conditions.
I have found it to be a very worthwhile improvement, very much better than my 7 years old OE D3S Bulbs.
Much brighter and clearer, more cats eyes lit up, further reaching and wider spread of light
Much more confidence and almost as good as my old B5 which had main beam HID conversions (so 4 HID Bulbs lit instead of only 2 on my B8) without the delay in main beam powering-up.
 

PenttisHSR

Registered User
Just for comparison...........................

My B5 S4 Headlights had 4 bulbs. [2 x Dipped HID/ 2 x Main Halogen].
I modified the Halogens (Mainbeam) to HID.
My B8 S4 (Bi-Xenon] Headlights have only 2 bulbs [HID].

B8 A4/Allroad [4 Bulbs]:
H7 Halogen = 1,500 Lumens each [ X4 = 6,000 Lumens Total] (3,000 Dipped AND 3,000 Lumens Mainbeam)

B8 Bi-Xenon [2 Bulbs]:
35W HID = 3,200 Lumens each [X2 = 6,400 Lumens Mainbeam Total]

55W HID = 4,000 Lumens each [X2 = 8,000 Lumens Mainbeam Total]

My B5 S4 (unmodified) = 6,400 Lumens Dipped AND 3,000 Lumens Mainbeam [9,400 Lumens Total].
My B5 S4 (modified) = 6,400 Lumens Dipped AND 6,400 Lumens Mainbeam [12,800 Lumens Total]
My B8 S4 (unmodified) = 6,400 Lumens Dipped OR 6,400 Lumens Mainbeam. [6,400 Lumens Total]
My B8 S4 (modified) = 8,000 Lumens Dipped OR 8,000 Lumens Mainbeam. [8,000 Lumens Total]

Remember Bi-Xenon HID has the bulb partially obscured by a "shutter" on Dipped and shutter moves away on mainbeam.
On the B5 conversion this meant there was a "warm-up" period each time the mainbeam was lit (unless under 20 seconds since last on).
D1S far more reliable (and able to run 55W) than D3S
D1S Bi-Xenon were also used in B7 RS4.

This does not take into account the relative efficiencies of the reflectors or projectors used and variances in different quality bulbs and ballasts which are available.
 

A4B82.0tfsi-12

Registered User
Well I have three x 90 watt LED lights on the inside of
DSC_0231.JPG
my grill, so I have no need for more than D3S for dipped main beams. Complete daylight, compared to any Bi-xenon high beam :))) converted to D1S or no.

Highly recommended for you that want to have great lighting.
 

GjrBartlett

Registered User
Morning all,

Well the D1S kit is fitted, worked nights last nights & so had a good journey home in the early hours through backroads & country lanes.

My verdict.... Outstanding, the difference between this & my previous D3S set-up is substantial, now having seen it with my own eyes, the pictures don't do it justice.

in response to the few negatives comments, get yourselves to Specsavers....
 

PenttisHSR

Registered User
Well I have three x 90 watt LED lights on the inside of my grill, so I have no need for more than D3S for dipped main beams. Complete daylight, compared to any Bi-xenon high beam :))) converted to D1S or no.

Highly recommended for you that want to have great lighting.

Good idea, reminds me of my rally days.... but more subtle........ Proper lights!
If you are prepared to bolt something to your car, then the sky's the limit.
Of course the dipped beam is still standard.
Have you seen the LAZER LAMP LED Lights? https://www.lazerlamps.com/

How do you activate those lights, have you cut into the canbus so they come on with main beam?
Also, have you still got enough airflow to your rads. (when summer returns)?
Does the Grille block much of the light and can you get in to clean them?
 

PenttisHSR

Registered User
What? You can't mount ledbars or other lights to assist your high beams in UK?

It's a bit confusing.
UK regulations here........ http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1989/1796/contents/made
There are many constrictions on the factory fitted lights, but not much for "optional" lights.
eg "Max 2 matching pair" "E-Marked" " Max 55W"

As I read it, you have 2 descriptions for "spotlights"
1) "Optional Main-Beam Headlamp"
2) "Optional Front Position Lamps"

If 1) ....... Any Number , Any Wattage, White or Yellow, MUST BE "E" MARKED
2)........ NO RESTRICTIONS OTHER THAN MUST BE "WHITE"

Any other interpretations?
 

A4B82.0tfsi-12

Registered User
Ok. I'm currently in Sweden so no legal issues for me. I also have honeycomb grill fitted, so maybe loose 5 % light from them. No issues with cooling in the summertime. Thought I'd have to take them out during summer, but no need to. Yeah I've cut in to high beam signal wire 11 or 12. Can't remember which one it was.
 

PenttisHSR

Registered User
Ok. I'm currently in Sweden so no legal issues for me. I also have honeycomb grill fitted, so maybe loose 5 % light from them. No issues with cooling in the summertime. Thought I'd have to take them out during summer, but no need to. Yeah I've cut in to high beam signal wire 11 or 12. Can't remember which one it was.
Thanks for reply.
So signal wire goes to an old fashioned relay and no issues with fault codes?
Or is it not quite so simple!
 
Top