Cruise control installation guide

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No I don't think there is (not currently near the car to check) but I think due to the reason the washer error hasnt popped up on the dash would mean it hasn't worked correctly.
As it seems to be a given that once the trip computer is properly activated this pops up
 
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Yeah.. You're right bud..
Probably the stalk is in full working order either.. Just recheck your coding..

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Will do thanks for the help.
I just hope whenever I go back to the crowd that done it listen to what I have to say, sometimes they think they know better which annoys me!!lol
 
No worries man..
I've done everything myself and at first was very confusing and only until I done it that I could make sense of it..

Anything you need give me a shout.. I'll guide you the best u can...

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Hi,

I have a 2008 A4 cabriolet 2.0 TDI, and have just ordered CC stalk 4E0953521. I ordered this one as this is the one shown in the manual for my car, so fingers crossed.

So, if I fit this stalk using the very informative guide at the start of this post, and get somebody to code it with VCDS, is that all that's required?

Must admit, I'm a little confused when reading about washer error?!

Thanks
 
mikrt said:
Hi,

I have a 2008 A4 cabriolet 2.0 TDI, and have just ordered CC stalk 4E0953521. I ordered this one as this is the one shown in the manual for my car, so fingers crossed.

So, if I fit this stalk using the very informative guide at the start of this post, and get somebody to code it with VCDS, is that all that's required?

Must admit, I'm a little confused when reading about washer error?!

Thanks
Click to expand...
Indeed.. If your module supports this all you need to do is code it to enable cruise control..
And unless you're enabling DIS (driver information system) along with it you don't need to worry about the washer level error..

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Thanks SemedoB6 for your quick reply.

I do have DIS enabled already. Is that what you mean, or is there a further enabling function when CC fitted & coded, which I can do without?

Apologies if this seems a silly question!
 
If you have the DIS enabled already and specially if it was factory fitted you have nothing to worry about because the sensor on the washer bottle will be wired to the cluster..
All you need is a CC stalk and the coding and you're done..

I've asked this questions million times before.. It was hard to make sense of it until I done it..
Doing it myself gave me another perspective to what people were saying and it all made sense while doing it..
Amd it's really way easier than it sounds..

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Thank you so much SemedoB6.

Will report back when completed.
 
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As promised, now reporting back after having a go this morning, and failing.

Everything going swimmingly until refitting the squib. At about the 1 o'clock position there's a long connection that goes further back than anything else and a yellow plug connects into it.

I didn't disconnect it when disassembling, but I figure now it MUST have been!!!

When connecting these when squab is not in place there is a very definite hard click when in place and to disconnect, I need to pull the white tab underneath. I deffo didn't do this when taking apart.

The trouble is, the yellow plug doesn't fit in the opening at the rear of the light stalk, either with the squab off or on so I convinced myself it couldn't have been plugged in before and reassembled without it.

With the squib in place
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, the yellow plug will not come forward enough (comes against the rear of light stalk) to click properly.

So, I put everything back with that disconnected, and as I feared, I now have an airbag alarm!

I can only assume it was in place before but not clicked in as far as it should. I know..... it doesn't make any sense to me either, but that's the only thing I can think of and will have to have another go on Thursday - my next day off work.

I took photo's, not sure if they will mean anything, but if anybody has any idea, I'd be very grateful.

The last one (close up), shows the size of the plug and the size of the opening it need to fit to enable it to click into place.
 

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Not sure why the photo's in my last post are in the middle of a sentence? I thought they were at the end of the post - sorry if it makes reading difficult.
 
Mate.. The solution to this is actually very simple..
You need to put the clock spring in place and everything back where it should be before you can connect that..
The wires behind there are very short and only with it in place you're able to connect it properly.
And the best way to connect it is using just your fingertips.
It's a bit tricky but you'll manage in the end..
Unless the tab is broken and doesn't click which I find it unlikely..
I've done it a few times and that's the only way I was able to connect it in the end..
Hope this helps..

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Thanks again SemedoB6.

That was the first thing I attempted, as I tried to describe, with the squib/clock spring in place, I can get the yellow plug onto the long connection, but it will not come forward enough to click into place. It's about 5mm short before it's tight against the rear of the light stalk.

However, having said all that, I will be trying again in a few days. I was thinking of shaving a few mm off the yellow plug (without damaging the pins of course). Also, I know I didn't disconnect it as it has to have the white tab pulled hard to free it - and that didn't happen.
 
Have just found this on Youtube. Mine is B7 one shown is B6.



The yellow connector shown plugs inside the black connector, but mine is larger and goes outside of it. Not sure which type you've done and seen.
 
Right..
My first time I didn't put the module and squib as far back as they should go and that created me a problem.. They see that too.
And of its a broken tab just order a new one from audi.. They're like 4 quid and you'll have peace of mind it won't happen again..
B6 and B7 are exactly the same..
Just t think about the B7 has a B6 facelift.

Just another thing..
Did you upgrade your module for cruise control or the standard one was cruise control compatible?

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No, didn't upgrade module. I thought there was no need as I had a full MFSW. Was I wrong?

Referring to difference between B6 & B7, my yellow plug is definitely bigger than the one in video (B6) you should be able to see in the photo's I attached.

As I said, I'll be having another go in a few days, thanks for helping so far.
 
Not a problem... I've been in your shoes..
Kinds busy now but give like half hour and I'll do a quick search on that..

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Right..
Answering your question, no.. You were not wrong in keeping your module.. If you have mfsw you'll have the correct module..

And yes..thw 4 pin connector is bigger in the b7. But that should not interfere with it making a fill connection and clicking when doing so..
I'd think the tab is broken and the connector isn't making full contact..
And of you say your 5mm short id try to wiggle the wires carefully until it connects. Because if it was connected it has to reach.
In case you have a broken tab here's the part number that will allow you to order another one.

-4E0972133

Apart from this.. Did you get your cruise up and running?

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I'll check the tab on Thursday, but it does click into place properly when squib/clock spring isn't in place.

I was rushing to put it back together so maybe I did miss something.

Not had it coded yet, so no I haven't tried the cruise.

The car isn't actually on the road yet, it's with my very friendly indie garage who'll be changing the cam belt/tensioner/water pump any day. I also have the A/C not coming on, so he's going to check if it's the pressure switch or actually low on pressure while from is off for the belt. I did tell him there's no rush as I won't be taxing it till the start of May.

I asked him if he knew anyone with VCDS, and he didn't, but he's convinced that there's an expert mode on his snap on diagnostic tool that can perform the same function. So once I've got this connection sorted and the fault codes cleared we'll try it then. I'm not 100% sure it will work though.
 
If you were in a rush and it clicks when the clock spring isn't in place you can rule out the tab being broken..
Probably you missed a step and that'd why it doesn't connect when in place..

Hmm.. Sounds too good to be true...
Let a hope it works but don't think it will..
Jeep us posted..

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@SemedoB6 is it possible for you to get pictures of the process of activating the trip computer function?
Going tomorrow morning to try and get it resolved and the guy told me to try get some as it would allow us to check it's all correct.
 
I'll look for something online of I can find it I'll do it on my car as I have to check something with VCDS anyway..

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Thanks very much man, appreciate your help !
 
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Planned yellow connector check yesterday didn't happen, but got it sorted this morning. I HAD TO cut off 5mm of the outer cover of the said yellow connector to get it in. The tab didn't feel 100% when in position, so I've used a very thin cable tie to aid with securing it.

Good news as the airbag alarm has cleared :welcoming:

Also, Regarding coding the cruise using Snap On instead of VCDS, I think it's worked. Went through the procedure at the start of this post, at the end tested up/down as per instructions and it worked. However when I tried using from the stalk nothing happened. I'm being optimistic and hoping it's because the car was stood still and it doesn't switch on unless above a certain speed - fingers crossed. The car still can't be driven on the road yet as front bumper is still off after new belts (Delayed as had to have new A/C pressure sensor).

So I'm hoping I can report back Tuesday after a road test.
 
I was doing a video on auto to code cruise control but the laptop dyed on me..
But if the car accepted the coding you wouldn't know if it's working until you reach 20mph.
Any speed lower than that the cruise won't engage..
And with the software you coded your car can't you see what the coding is now?
Because the coding should tell you whether it accepted it or not.

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The car is in garage a few miles away, and I wouldn't have a clue where to start....

But the young fitter who used the Snap On to code, used the up & down to test at the end - as per the last 2 photos of instructions in this opening post, and it worked.

So if it won't engage below 20mph I'm even more optimistic it'll be fine on Tuesday's road test.
 
Ok.. Hopefully it's all coded..
And yeah.. And even tho. I read about it I had to try it.. And below 20 it won't engage..

Report. Back after road test..

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Been doing some research, it seems it's possible I could have a non DIS cluster meaning that the trip computer could well be activated but not working on mine due to it being a non DIS cluster, is it as simple as swapping the LCD screen or is there more to it ?
 
When I done mine I read that audi leaves all cluster ready for dis.
They just need to be enabled..
I done the DIS fort only a few months after I've done cruise..
Swapping the LCD isn't easy no.. Requires soldering and taking the cluster apart.

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SemedoB6 said:
When I done mine I read that audi leaves all cluster ready for dis.
They just need to be enabled..
I done the DIS fort only a few months after I've done cruise..
Swapping the LCD isn't easy no.. Requires soldering and taking the cluster apart.

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Click to expand...

Hopefully that's the case then, tried looking online but can't see to find a step by step guide on the coding procedure for it
 
Yeah hopefully get it sorted tomorrow, you weren't able to get a photo of your own ?
 
Yeah, if that's possible?it's just to check and make sure it's all done correctly.
 
Road test complete.......... Cruise is working a treat, thanks you all so much, especially SemedoB6 :salute:

Next job, in a few weeks is rear parking sensors.
 
And just to confirm.. It was coded using SnapOn
 
Cheers buddy.. Happy to help..
I'm glad all worked out..
Do you also have dis?
It's always good to know we have other options to get the car coded..

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Very good..
Hope you're happy now..
I was thrilled when I enabled mine.. Wish you well buddy..

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