Couple of issues

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Scottamdaddy

Guest
Morning all any advise would be great couple of issues with my b6

1.my waste gate sounds like some one breaking wind is this normal turbo sounds fine in itself ?

2. My alarm siren was ****** is there a replacment I can put in place for this or does it have to be Audi part only ?

3. I have a break pad warning light on the dash yet the pads look pretty much new ?

4. I have a DAB Arial but signal is not great it's one that sits in the window any good suggestions ?

5. The car doesn't recognise the drivers door being open any ideas why everything works on the door other than this ?

Thanks for any help guys
 

Bradderz_1988

Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!
1. Take it this is a 1.8T ?? Wastegate noise as in a 'woo chuchchcuuhcu' isnt actually the wastegate it means compressor stall ie the diverter valve isnt doing its job correctly and the boost in the pipework is slowing down the compressor by pushing the air back out the intake and also could snap the turbine shaft if giving it some in the higher rev range and letting off the throttle.

2. Not to sure but if its like the B5 one they have an internal battery that powers the sounder that can leak battery acid in The unit so just replace for a used replacement with same part number.

3. Check brake fluid level and also check the pad wiring from the pad to connector and also check the connections making sure the locking tabs are locking in place ive had to zip tie them before now to stop pad warings.

4. Depends on your location and reciever signal of the aerial.

5. Check the pin switch (not to sure on B6 model wether it has one or not or if its built in too the door lock) and also the door wiring for any bad wiring or breaks also check the connections for corrosion.
 
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Scottamdaddy

Guest
Thanks for the reply brad the turbo waste gate when I let off makes a fart sound no chatter just didn't know if this is normal if always heard waste gates make a whooo noise not a purp noise lol.

With regards to the brake fluid didn't check that but I will have a look good suggestion

The alarm batterys had leaked and renders the circute board dead but didn't know if I could replace the siren with an aftermarket one with a back up battery

The drivers door has no pins some times when I take the key out it will unlock strait away others I have to pull the handle twice for it to open.

The arieal is a screen one and it's sat in the windscreen at the very top
 

Bradderz_1988

Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!
Whats setup is your car running and what engine ?? I think your slightly confused by the sounds of it

Wastegate :- controls boost pressure by redirecting exhaust gases before the turbine which is controlled by boost pressure sole oid also known as the N75 valve. So the actuator will be opened at say 4psi but boost will be around 6 psi on a stock motor but the n75 will bleed of boost back to the intake to allow the wastegate to stay closed to achieve its desired boost pressure.

Diverter valve (recirculation valve) :- recirc's meter air from the boost pipes back to the intake after the MAF sensor as the ecu has calculated the fuel needed for the amount of air thats passed through the MAF so for example if you fit a atmospheric dump valve in place of a recirc valce you will get a rich spot after letting off the throttle as there's metered air thats not there for that calculated fuel so a diverter valve puts the metered air back into the intake so the amount of air is correct for the calculated fuel.

You cant hear a wastegate on a internally gated turbo, im thinking that you mean diverter valve and your diverter valve may be goosed or the vac line to it is perished/split it sounds like the diaphram isnt opening when it should and boost pressure is blowing past it check the valve for splits in the diaphram if you blow through the port on the bottom and it comes out the side its goosed.

If the siren has leaked out that might be the issue with your door not unlocking on key removal as the central locking unit may be balls'd from the back up battery acid. Happened on my B5 and found corrosionon circuit board and pins/connectors cleaned them up best i could and all was fine.
 

Bradderz_1988

Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!
Edit : Repost
 

Bradderz_1988

Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!
You can hear the diverter valve in that video above sounds a little different to the oem DV as its a forge 007p piston type DV but is this when the noise occurs on gear changes letting off the throttle and what your trying to get at ??
 
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Scottamdaddy

Guest
Thanks for that ill have a listen when I get home from work the internet wont let me listen to it unfortunately, so basically what is happening is this please bear with me as I have never owned a turbo car this is my first and I would like to learn more about it.

the car is a 2001 Audi A4 B6 1.8T the 150bhp model saloon not sure on the engine type :(

when I put my foot down you can hear the turbo spool up, occasionally the turbo sounds like it spools then stops then spools up again this only happens in second gear and happens once in a blue moon.

when I take my foot off for a gear change I get a noise that sounds like some one breaking wind I will try and see if I can record the sound on the way home. some times its a pooot noise other times I get a poot poot noise sorry its the best way I can describe it.

I have been told by our on site fleet engineer that he thinks the waste gate is clogged up with carbon and that's why I am getting this noise.

the only thing I can see in the engine bay is a vacuum hose that goes from just under the intake manifold all the way across the engine, down past the radiator to the bottom of the engine not to sure what it goes to yet but it looks like it needs replacing. its braided hose looks a bit past it.

To be fair she has 154,000 on the clock she still drives smooth with no other engine issues that I have detected as of yet. getting VAG-com in a couple of days as I also have a pad warning light that I have investigated pads are fine and fluid is fine & I also have an airbag warning light on the dashboard.

on another note recently I noticed my rocker gasket was leaking so I cleaned it all up replaced the gasket and now all is well however now I seem to be getting a smell in the cab of burning oil but I cant see any leaks.


my current list of repairs to carry out are as follows:

Air bag warning light
Break Pad Warning light
Smell of burning oil blowing into the cab at a standstill
front wiper arms to replaces as the clips are snapped and currently cable tied on :(
The let of noise from the turbo
vacuum hose to replace in engine bay
drivers doors electrics as the door doesn't always unlock when I remove the key from the ignition but all others do
alarm siren to replace.

then once iv done all that I can get on with the styling on the interior :) either hydro Dipping of vinyl wrapping not sure which yet :)
 

Bradderz_1988

Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!
Right wastegates dont clog up with carbon on these engines on a diesel variable vane turbo yes thats a common issue.

It sounds to me like your diverter valve has given up or not opening.

Thats what i would be checking first the vac line runs down the front of the timing cover under the turbo coolant line the down to the turbo outlet pipe as this is where the DV is located. Take the pipe off the solenoid under the inlet and blow down it if there's resistance thats normal if you can blow through it like a straw theres a leak in the piping or the diaphram isnt holding pressure effectively your losing boost pressure aswell.
 

Bradderz_1988

Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!
image.jpeg


This is what your looking for
 

norris_309

Registered User
No idea on the breaking wind noise, but I've had the airbag light on my b6.
Turned out to be the connector under the drivers seat (common fault) there is a cable that runs under the seat & has a connector on it, this then runs to the floor & is plugged in under a tab on the floor.
I was lucky (touches wood!!..) I removed the floor plug & re-seated it, cleared the code & all was well. Although many threads on this end with people cutting off the connector & soldering the wire together as it usually is the connector at fault.

You will need a code reader of some description to clear the fault & put the light out.

I've hard the brake pad warning on a mk4 golf when the pads looked fine, and mine turned out to be the sensor wire broken.
(I only found that when i'd bought new pads and went on to replace them..)
 
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Scottamdaddy

Guest
Hi null thanks for the reply I am guessing that even if I was to fix the connection on the air bag the light wont go out without it being reset through vag com is this right?

also do you know if it the connection under the seat or the one that plugs into the floor that normal goes ?

Thanks
 
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Scottamdaddy

Guest
hi Brad just had a listen to the clip you sent me and no my car sounds nothing like that lol yours sounds like its smooth when you let off where my goes purp lol best way i can describe it ill grab a clip later
 

Bradderz_1988

Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!
give the diverter and vac pipe a quick check. Only cost £25-30 from TPS for a genuine one, mines a forge so will sound different as its a piston type recirc valve so you sort of get the thwack of the piston on the housing
 

norris_309

Registered User
Hi null thanks for the reply I am guessing that even if I was to fix the connection on the air bag the light wont go out without it being reset through vag com is this right?

also do you know if it the connection under the seat or the one that plugs into the floor that normal goes ?

Thanks

Yes, even if you fix the airbag the light needs turning off, I used a cheap code reader from a mate, it looks like this:


From what I've read it appears to be the one under the seat that causes problems, guess it's from moving the seat forwards and back.
I just reseated the floor on & wiggled the under seat connector about a bit & then cleared the code & after a couple of tries it went out & stayed out. (just in time for the mot!)
 

Bradderz_1988

Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!
hey brad and others I have taken 2 videos of the sound the turbo is making when I let off i haven't investigated yet as the 13 month old took all my attention tonight but i will have a look tomorrow after work in the mean time does this sound like what your talking about?

http://s347.photobucket.com/user/Scottamdaddy/media/VIDEO00131_zpsmpdpgecf.mp4.html

Hmm that to me sounds more like a mount or bush thats gone but a little hard to tell.

Or something is rubbing that shouldnt be ???
 
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Scottamdaddy

Guest
Hi Brad no its defiantly coming from the exhaust and turbo let off im just wondering if there has been a build up of deposits and that's why its making a sound like that.

My cousin is going to be replacing the front wheel bearing for me at the end of the month and he has said to me he will have a look. he said it sounds to him like the actuator..... its starting to sound costly now I don't want to drive and cause damage to anything.... I am guessing this is one that only time will tell and a good poke around.

is the actuator hard to remove or service is there any other parts that we should be looking at that can cause a noise from the turbo like this.... I would just leave it but its a bit embarrassing to have my car farting when I want to put my foot down a bit and like I said the last thing I want to do is cause damage to anything.

Norris thanks for that I am awaiting VAG-Com to turn up so when it does ill have a check on the ecu and see what the old girl thinks is wrong fingers crossed I am hoping its what your talking about sounds like my kind of repair.... FREE lol

Thanks for all your help guys it helping me paint a bigger picture of my car now :)
 

Darran

Registered User
Wastegates can clog with carbon, ive just done mine, to replace actuator you have to remove the turbo which isnt that bad a job, check the cat out when you remove turbo mine had collapsed and made a very similar noise, the cat collapsing had caused carbon to build up due to gases not escaping properly.On the upside my power is awesome with no cat ,makes a huge difference when you decat them. Change your bov anyway the dont last forever.

Vcds is your friend with these faults as you can log boost etc and see whats going on.
 

Bradderz_1988

Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!
The wastegate controls the penny valve/arm in the turbine housing and i cant see that clogging up with carbon, if its 'farting' on acceleration then boost or exhaust gases are probably escaping from a gasket or diaphram causing the noise your getting could be the diaphram in the wategate and its escaping where the rod exits the valve.

Have some one rev the car up whilst listenening round the engine bay for the noise it might not do it as if its boost related you'll need to put it under load.
 

Darran

Registered User
Bradderz, the wastegate valve is on the exhaust side of the turbo and can carbon up it also dumps pressure into the downstream exhaust not back into the inlet as your desciption above states, the fact the wastegate is on the exhaust side can and does allow carbon build up , ive even seen the valve burn just like a normal top end exhaust does although its not common.The noise he has is very different but i cant make out from the vid wether its triggered at 2k or only when closing the throttle,nif the later then i would say bov has shot it and is actually releasing a fraction slow causing the fart noise instead of instant dump or recirc.
 
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Scottamdaddy

Guest
Hi Guys thanks for the reply the "farting" sound only happens when i take my foot off the accelerator, however i have notice occasionally when i am accelerating in second gear i can hear the turbo spool up then goes quite for a second then it spools back up again this only happens occasionally once in a blue moon.

however i have a new thing its doing tonight same sound can hear it spool up but boost seems to be very low i am starting to get to the point of pulling my hair out over this its only done this on the way home tonight so i will see in the morning if it still doing this. i have no CEL or MIL lights or any other warnings so this is baffling.

in regards to the break light wear warning on the dash i have checked the pad connections and the passenger side has bang on 12 volts so no issues there went and checked the drivers side and i have no volts at all so i am guessing there is either a break in the line or a fuse if it has a fuse for each side i don't know with out investigating more. the issue is the brake wear cable and the abs cable merge to one so checking for the break in this is gonna be hard also it just goes into the wing and i really don't want to have to take the wing off to find this.

i want to fix this issue not bodge it i just hope it doesn't come to that

Thanks for your advice so far guys its gold what you have suggested so far cause i am all out of ideas
 

Bradderz_1988

Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!
Bradderz, the wastegate valve is on the exhaust side of the turbo and can carbon up it also dumps pressure into the downstream exhaust not back into the inlet as your desciption above states, the fact the wastegate is on the exhaust side can and does allow carbon build up , ive even seen the valve burn just like a normal top end exhaust does although its not common.The noise he has is very different but i cant make out from the vid wether its triggered at 2k or only when closing the throttle,nif the later then i would say bov has shot it and is actually releasing a fraction slow causing the fart noise instead of instant dump or recirc.

I think you have misunderstood what i said im not saying exhaust gases coming out of there to the inlet.

The turbine housing is the exhaust side of the turbo, the inlet/boost side is the compressor side. The common problem is the penny valve falls off the arm and you lose boost this happend to my B5 A4 ive never heard of carbon build up jamming the wastgate valve.

How it looks


This was mine




If its when you let off it could be the wastegate actuator closing the valve but again it could be the diverter valve if the diaphram is split the inlet cant pull vacuum for the valve to release boost back to the intake so the boost may be farting past the diaphram in the DV.

Your thoughts @aragorn ?
 
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Scottamdaddy

Guest
Oh dear I'm guessing you had to replace the turbo in your case ouch. The divert vaulve you speak of were can I find it and how can I test it. Thanks for all your support
 

Bradderz_1988

Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!
I was replacing it anyway for the frankenturbo hybrid kit, i had chased a boost issue for awhile as was only getting 6 psi instead of 10-12psi and the valve was just resting there in the wastegate hole of the turbine housing so the arm was moving but the penny valve was stuck half open in the turbine housing so still managed to build a little boost.

Yeah its on the lower boost hose off the turbo, take the undertray off and its on the drivers side boost hose also check vac pipework to the DV not sure wether the older model B6's had the thicker none braided vac lines if there small and plastic braided its probably perished just replace for 3 or 4mm id silicone vac piping.
 
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Scottamdaddy

Guest
So last night I lost all but a small amount of boost turbo was still spooling and was still dumping as per normal just not increase in performance on the car. Got back in this morning drove to work and have boost again starting to think the actuator is sticking now what's your thoughts on this. If the actuator is not opening properly could that cause the noise and if it got stuck open a bit yesterday would that explain why boost seems really low compared to today?
 

Bradderz_1988

Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!
Put some pipe on to the wastegate actuator and blow some air down (4psi is actuator pressure) see if the rod is moving also if it is the cause of your noise it should make the noise as you stop blowing air into it which would point to a split diaphram inside the actuator.

It could be a number of things causing your boost issue ie wastegate, maf sensor, map sensor, n75 DV, boost leaks or split vac pipes.

Get the DV checked its only two jubilee clips and a vac line to remove it personally for the price of one i would do it for piece of mind.
 
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Scottamdaddy

Guest
Hi Guys so I got VAG-COM today plugged it in and the old girl was hiding a lot of fault codes but nothing engine related so i done a live check of some data and this is what i got on idle would you say figures look okay?

Mileage: 249160km-154820mi

Wednesday,10,August,2016,18:25:23

05:Engine coolant temperature 98 °C
18:Secondary Air Status Atmosphere/off
12:Engine RPM 750 /min
16:Mass Air Flow 2.50 g/s


The turbo was reading around 7.6 if i remember rightly could be wrong tho i only had a couple of minutes to do it

so see the full list of code i have started another thread to see what people suggest :)
 
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