Coolant issue and Strange noise. Any advice please

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Any advice please. Coolant issue + strange noise
Having some problems with my 07 plate 2.0 TDI (140) sportback A3, had the car 4 months, full audi service, next one is due next month.

I was driving along over a week ago and noticed the car was making a strange almost kind of murmuring noise at 50+ mph, it sounded like it was coming from the rear of the car, so i thought the exhaust was possibly on the way out, had the car on a ramp and there aren't any problems from that perspective, so I did a few checks under the bonnet, noticed the coolant needed topping up, so I did that, the noise still seems to there and plaguing my mind a lot so iv been keeping an eye on things daily and noticed the coolant had dropped considerably. Had it checked out today at an audi specialist, they did a pressure test that didn't come up with any visual leaks, they're saying i need to have a carbon test done to check the engine internally for leaks, i don't have the creamy oil around the cap which is a sign of the head going. I don't seem to be having any problems with temperature, it sits right at 90. Does anyone have any advice on what else it could be? Does the noise from the rear and coolant loss seem related or two different issues? Any advice would be great!
 
Anyone help this guy ?

I suggested he move this post from the general info. forum to get more help.

I don't think the two things are connected but some of you may have other ideas !

p.s. I actually suggested a moderator move it but needless to say no response !!
 
Any advice please. Coolant issue + strange noise
Having some problems with my 07 plate 2.0 TDI (140) sportback A3, had the car 4 months, full audi service, next one is due next month.

I was driving along over a week ago and noticed the car was making a strange almost kind of murmuring noise at 50+ mph, it sounded like it was coming from the rear of the car, so i thought the exhaust was possibly on the way out, had the car on a ramp and there aren't any problems from that perspective, so I did a few checks under the bonnet, noticed the coolant needed topping up, so I did that, the noise still seems to there and plaguing my mind a lot so iv been keeping an eye on things daily and noticed the coolant had dropped considerably. Had it checked out today at an audi specialist, they did a pressure test that didn't come up with any visual leaks, they're saying i need to have a carbon test done to check the engine internally for leaks, i don't have the creamy oil around the cap which is a sign of the head going. I don't seem to be having any problems with temperature, it sits right at 90. Does anyone have any advice on what else it could be? Does the noise from the rear and coolant loss seem related or two different issues? Any advice would be great!
some a3's suffered from porous cylinder heads,if its under warranty take it back! when you start it first thing in the morning do you get a rattle which stop after a few seconds? just a noisy engine which after a few seconds go's quiet ?
 
Its a bit of later year for the porous heads, they were more 2004/5 with a few later but not many. I had a pressure test on mine and it came up fine, second test showed it wasnt! Mine lost coolant and had no residue around the cap. Worth going back to check the head.
Otherwise make sure you have no hoses with splits in etc, worth a look.
 
check your radiator mines a 53 plate. and lost coolant very quickly. To be honest people say dont use radweld but it cost me 10quid and now mine does not loose any coolant any more cars done 132k so it was worth a try and it payed off.

rumbling noise - check your rear wheel camber tow tracking bushes etc. poor quality tyres with bad tyre noise? could be any of these
 
Thanks guys and girl

I feel the issues aren't related. I think the coolant was lost because of 2 reasons (both my bad!) 1. I don't think the seal on the cap was tight after i topped it up, therefore loosing the coolant thru evaporation 2. stupidly i didn't mix the coolant and water together first, so i think the water was sitting on top of the coolant, giving the effect it was full, and now has dropped and mixed.

I will have the carbon test done still purely for piece of mind but don't think it'll come up with anything. The noise from the rear, I think is as Russo2k5 says. So i will be having these checked asap. I will get back on it.
 
you dont need mix water and coolant together first!
 
rumbling noise - check your rear wheel camber tow tracking bushes etc. poor quality tyres with bad tyre noise? could be any of these
i have a rumbling noise at the rear of mine could it be a wheels bearing gone or is it worth checking the camber tow tracking bushes , how do i check if they are gone ???
ps.. soz for the thread hi-jack o.p
 
So ive started to lose coolant over the past week... topped it up briefly with just water to get me to this evening when i can buy some proper coolant.

Anything else i need to be aware of? I checked the car this morning and no puddles underneath the car? What is this radweld stuff?
 
Radweld is an additive you put in the coolant to help seek out and plug leaks.

The name gives it away really !!
 
Also worht checking is the blue expansion tank cap, if its an older car or clocked up a large millage, then the spring in the cap might have gone.
A new cap from Audi or ebay will fix this, and is a nice cheap easy fix.
 
good shout on the cap... its done 135k milage so could possibly be this...

how would i know if the spring is gone? presuming it would be slack?
 
some a3's suffered from porous cylinder heads,if its under warranty take it back! when you start it first thing in the morning do you get a rattle which stop after a few seconds? just a noisy engine which after a few seconds go's quiet ?


Hi I am getting them same problems with the coolant and noisy engine effect.

My 8P is on a 54 plate 2005 reg.

What can be done about the cylinder heads?

Would it affect the car or engine in anyway long term?

Cheers.
 
Hi I am getting them same problems with the coolant and noisy engine effect.

My 8P is on a 54 plate 2005 reg.

What can be done about the cylinder heads?

Would it affect the car or engine in anyway long term?

Cheers.
noisy engine...ouch ! it because coolant is landing on top of the pistons,so when you start it in the morning it rattles,burns off the coolant then go's quiet,if its under warranty take it back...you need a new cylinder head unfortunatley,i dont think you can do much else its worth asking an engineering place where they repair them to see if anything can be done but i doubt it,worth asking.....sooner or later the piston will come through the side of the engine block.:sadlike:
 
noisy engine...ouch ! it because coolant is landing on top of the pistons,so when you start it in the morning it rattles,burns off the coolant then go's quiet,if its under warranty take it back...you need a new cylinder head unfortunatley,i dont think you can do much else its worth asking an engineering place where they repair them to see if anything can be done but i doubt it,worth asking.....sooner or later the piston will come through the side of the engine block.:sadlike:

WOW...

Thanks VW754 that dont sound to good.

My car has also gone into "LIMP MODE" and is currently in a independent.

Not good at all.

Could the coolant cause the "LIMP MODE?"
 
no......turbo.........plug it in see what vag says.....if ''overboost'' probably the turbo vanes sticking.....do a search on...''turbo vanes sticking''.
 
noisy engine...ouch ! it because coolant is landing on top of the pistons,so when you start it in the morning it rattles,burns off the coolant then go's quiet,if its under warranty take it back...you need a new cylinder head unfortunatley,i dont think you can do much else its worth asking an engineering place where they repair them to see if anything can be done but i doubt it,worth asking.....sooner or later the piston will come through the side of the engine block.:sadlike:


vw754.

Any idea of the cost of a new cylinder head?

Thank you.
 
no......turbo.........plug it in see what vag says.....if ''overboost'' probably the turbo vanes sticking.....do a search on...''turbo vanes sticking''.

Independent come up with Fault code: 16618

16618/P0234/000564 - Boost Pressure Regulation: Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition)

Possible Symptoms

  • Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
  • Boost Pressure too high
  • Reduced Power Output
Possible Causes

  • Hoses incorrectly connected, disconnected, blocked or leaking
  • Boost Pressure Control Valve (N75) faulty
  • Boost Pressure Sensor (G13) faulty
  • Turbo Charger stuck/faulty
Possible Solutions

  • Check Charge Pressure Control System
    • Perform Output Test (to check the Turbo Charger)
    • Perform Basic Setting (to check the Charge Pressure Control)
    • Perform Pressure Test to locate Leaks
  • Check/Replace Boost Pressure Control Valve (N75)
  • Check/Replace Boost Pressure Sensor (G13)
  • Check/Replace Turbo Charger
car is still under checks.

Sounds like a expensive one this one.
 
Turbo Charger stuck/faulty ! i tell ya what.........mine did it,i had it remapped only for 1 day and touch wood its been over a year now and never had a problem. (flywheel was a bit week so took map off)

when you have it remapped the turbo works harder and spins faster thus burning off all the crud thats making the vanes stick.
 
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Turbo Charger stuck/faulty ! i tell ya what.........mine did it,i had it remapped only for 1 day and touch wood its been over a year now and never had a problem. (flywheel was a bit week so took map off)

when you have it remapped the turbo works harder and spins faster thus burning off all the crud thats making the vanes stick.

Thank you VM754 for your fast response.

I'll consider that.

Just waiting now for the garage to let me know what they find and will suggest what you said.

Cheers mate.
 
Hi guys,

Just wanted to give an update on what going on the my car.

Right the garage said it my fly wheel. (F*#%)

That is what is causing the knocking noise from the engine, lazy start from cold and the car going into limp mode.

My flywheel has a crack in it and apparantley common on my model?

Anyways the total cost of this is £500 for the flywheel and £400 for labour.

I have looked around at the cost of a flywheel and have come across the flywheel and a "clutch kit"

The clutch kit is more expensive.

Has anyone else experience the same problem and has lead to the flywheel?

How much did it cost you to fix parts & labour?

Or anyone know where I can source a flywheel for a resonable price?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers guys and gals.
 
search e-bay there was a dealer selling genuine fly wheel for £250.00 also i thingk u can get clutch and fly wheel fitted for around £700 id replace the slave cylinder its in the gearbox,dont want that go later on down the line...theyre about £70
 
Hi VW754,

Thanks for the advise.

Thought is sounded a little rich.
 
Only me again...

I have found a flywheel for less than what I was quoted.

Not genuine Audi part I dont think so.

Sachs Dual-mass flywheel - Euro Car Parts UK

Is this the correct flywheel for the 2004/2005 Audi A3 TDI DSG auto box with a BKD engine.

Cheers guys.
 
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Not sure how a faulty DMF (quite a common fault) would cause an over boost DTC. As has been stated that is probably sticky vanes in the Turbo, do a search on Innotec as it is worth a try and a lot cheaper than a replacement Turbo.

I think that one is for a manual 6 speed gearbox and not a DSG like yours. I'd give them a ring and also give your local TPS a ring, always handy to have a not of your VIN when calling them.

Good luck.

Paul
 
Okay a SOS call.

I need to source a flywheel for a DSG gear box 54 plate 2.0 TDI.

I am told these are a nightmare to get hold off.

I am actively looking on EBAY on so on but for the DSG it is not that easy to source.

Any guidance would be greatfull.
 
Not sure how a faulty DMF (quite a common fault) would cause an over boost DTC. As has been stated that is probably sticky vanes in the Turbo, do a search on Innotec as it is worth a try and a lot cheaper than a replacement Turbo.

I think that one is for a manual 6 speed gearbox and not a DSG like yours. I'd give them a ring and also give your local TPS a ring, always handy to have a not of your VIN when calling them.

Good luck.

Paul

Hi Paul,

Thanks for you rreply.

The Over Boost is caused by my boost control? (sorry I dont know the tech term)

I am getting that changed 1st to see if my car will get out of limp mode.

Just the trying to source a flywheel for the DSG gearbox. ****** things are not easy to find or CHEAP!