Confused over final stages.

[PhxViper]

Hi All,

Few quick questions.
1. Do you need to use a sealant and then wax?

I'm preparing my kit for when the new cars arrive and wanted to make sure I've got it right. The more I read the more in favour of using Cquartz UK as a final stage after cleaning?

Currently on my Black B7 I do the following:
Snow Foam, Wash (2 bucket), Clay, Dry. Then Poorboys Blackhole and finish with DodoJuice Purple Haze.

I'm thinking on the new B9 to drop the Blackhole glaze (As the paintwork will be better than my B7) and swap dodo for Cquartz for a longer? Protection.

2. Would the same method be ok on a Daytona Pearl A3. Or should I look at a different wax / sealant.

Thank in advance!

 

[TimM]

Hey
The above method is quite a way there but just to put in my ten penneth on the process.

If you're buying new and the dealership will be prepping you'll need to start by stripping their products. I'm due to collect my motor friday and have requested they skip exterior prep. So the following i advise on the basis they will have prepped the whole car/cars for you...

1. Wax off via pump sprayer (this is an actual product from autobrite, chemical guys and the like do similar), rinse
2. Snowfoam and 10 min dwell, rinse
3. 2BM wash, rinse
4. Dry
5. Clay then At this point although new i'd stick an led torch over the paint and look for marks. Never assume new is perfect.
6. If it's marked i'd use probably no more than the middle step polish used on a stage 3 process Via DA if you have one.
7. Glaze. If the above isn't required skip 6 and go straight to this.

This leads on to the point you questioned. For the cost and protection, SI02 products are well worthy of an investment, especially CarPro CQUK. This is probably the easiest option to apply from the Si02 range along with Gyeon Can Coat however, i think the application process of CQUK probably aids towards better/even coverage with whats in the pack. Either way you'll need to prep the paint. Either gyeon prime kit, good but pricey, CarPro Eraser or Gtechniq panel wipe. Essentially all ipa's to remove residue from the pre-steps above. The car pro eraser and cquk i would say is very good vs cost/ease of use. 12 month longevity at a good price of 45 quid inc the eraser. This will easily outlast your regular sealant/wax combo.

So... Point 8 is CarPro application say.
9. If you use the above, you apply the reload product immediately after the wipe off of the app'. Effectively a spray sealant top up.
10. I would do this although some say not required. No harm in it... Apply wax at this point.
11. Quick detailer

Haven't mentioned windows or wheels but potentially similar process. Note Cquk can be used on wheels also followed by a paste sealant/wax.

In terms of your wax on your final points raised, choose a colour charged wax. Get a grey/silver wax for the daytona to aid in the colour vibrancy. Autobrite do 25g sample pots which is more than enough for one large car application and as such spreads the cost but if you don't opt for si02, sealant first then wax as the latter degrades quicker.

I'll be new car prepping mine next week which includes cquk. Will post some pics

 

[TimM]

Notice your in stoke... Autobrite are down near wolstanton asda if you've never been. Definately worth a nosey

 

[PhxViper]

Wow, Thank you for the very detailed post. Much appreciated and definitely given me more to think about!

Follow up questions:
"7. Glaze" - Am I ok sticking with PB Blackhole or is there another product you'd recommend?

Didn't know about the CarPro eraser, so I'll definitely pick one of them up as well.

I actually live very close to Autobrite but never been. Was going down to pick up some Purple Rain & Cherry Wheel Clearer, I'll add some wax for the Daytona to the list as well. Anything else worth adding to the list while I'm there?

Looking forward to your pictures.

 

[TimM]

No problem.

I plug autobrite quite a bit but im totally impartial, it's just 90% of my own products are autobrite and thoroughly recommend them for doing an amazing job, for me the only real missing product is something akin to CQUK or C1 etc.

I can't comment really on the poorboys as i've never tried it personally apart from their shampoo. I wouldn't change it for changing sakes, especially as it's colour charged for both of your car paint colours but at the point of running out i'd consider giving autobrite brilliance a go. Same price however, it's not colour specific but it does perform well on the troublesome black and is so easy to remove.

Perhaps the one thing i would add to the above is P32. It's a 3 in 1 type product ideal for use after your maintenance wash. Just spray on and wipe.

http://www.autobritedirect.co.uk/in...nt-sealing-gloss-enhancing-spray-sealant.html

 

[steeve]

Most manufacturers of sealants will tell you its a waste adding wax.
Same as the best waxes (as opposed to the dreaded 'polish') will always recommend a clean paint surface for them to bond to.....
If its not then it wont last. A glaze may be a wax, depends on the country where the manufacturers are based. The best waxes are made by Zymol and they call them glazes.
http://www.zymol.com/
http://www.zymol.com/royale.aspx (nine a half thousand dollars)

 

[StevieS3]

If you have to polish the car then do that after washing, give the car a thorough wipe down with Carpro eraser then apply the CQUK do not use a glaze before hand as this will affect the coating bonding to the paint. No requirement for a wax afterwards as it will again affect how the coating reacts, if you go with CQUK then they recommend using reload after a few hours then the car is drivable and the coating will be protected and allowed to fully cure do not wash the car for a further 7days. If you can leave the car inside for at least 24hrs to let the coating cure reload is applied so you can drive the car get it wet etc and the coating will be protected.

Another to look at would be carbon collective oracle coating which can also be applied to plastic surfaces too.

 

[nikolai briton]

When applying a ceramic coat to your new car DO NOT put any glazes or anything else on first as this will interfere with the bonding of the Silica and Silane components! All that will be required is ceramic coating and your favourite choice of wax! Anything else you would like to know drop me a message

 

[R_V]

When applying a ceramic coat to your new car DO NOT put any glazes or anything else on first as this will interfere with the bonding of the Silica and Silane components! All that will be required is ceramic coating and your favourite choice of wax! Anything else you would like to know drop me a message

Hello all,

I am new to the forum.

I was grateful for the info above regarding the ceramic coating prep.
I am due to pick up my new S3 sportback on March 1st, it is Panther Black.
Would you recommend ceramic coating over a good clay, polish, sealant and then wax/glaze?
How would you prepare the paint for ceramic coating if there is a need to remove swirl marks from the manufacturer/dealer?
Any help would be appreciated.

 

[DrEskimo]

Hello all,

I am new to the forum.

I was grateful for the info above regarding the ceramic coating prep.
I am due to pick up my new S3 sportback on March 1st, it is Panther Black.
Would you recommend ceramic coating over a good clay, polish, sealant and then wax/glaze?
How would you prepare the paint for ceramic coating if there is a need to remove swirl marks from the manufacturer/dealer?
Any help would be appreciated.

A ceramic coating is just a more durable sealant. You will want to prepare the paint in the same way, with a thorough decontamination, including claying.

I would argue there is always a need to remove swirls if you want a good finish, but arguable its more important if applying a ceramic coating for two reasons. Firstly, the coating will last a good year or more if look after well. Any defects will be there of this entire time if not sorted prior to application! Secondly, you have to apply a ceramic to bare paint. Can't use glazes to 'hide' or 'fill' defects. Some ceramics will have some minor 'filling' capabilities, but not much.

So in summary, you will want to:
wash the car spotless

use clay (any any chemical decontamination products, like Iron X or Tar removers to help) to ensure a completely contaminant free paint surface that is smooth as glass

a machine polish to remove any swirls or defects and ensure maximum gloss

a panel wipe down to get rid of any residual polish residue and ensure no oils are left on the paint and it is completely 'naked'

You can then apply a ceramic coating. Will want to make sure its at lest dry for a couple of days, as most will require it to be dry for at least 12hrs. If you have a garage, all the better!

Hope that helps! Best of luck with it!