Complete Audio n00b has a few questios.

[kaizokuninja]

My sound needs sorting a little in my car:

My left front speaker ain't working. These are infinity kappa installed by the previous owner but i think maybe a wire is loose, when i sort the rears i'll take a look! How do i get the front door cards off, is there a guide i can be referred to?

My rear speakers are blown and so are being replaced. how do i get to the rear speakers? what depth is the maximum i can install and do i need to buy adapters or can i just replace them straight?

I get interference on the rear speakers that increases as the RPM is increased so i guess the amp is getting interference from somewhere, is this common and what is the explaination?

Cheers.
Tom

 

[AndyMac]

Fronts:
Lower the windows. Remove the 2 visible screws at each end of the top of the card, then remove the screw inside the grab handle and push the cuff down to reveal the 2 main screws. Remove these. then lift the whole door card straight up then out, but not too far as it will still be attached via wiring and cable release. Peel back the foam backing at the top and release the locking cable and unhook it. then unplug the wiring looms (these are usually pretty tight).
Rears
Remove the bottom sections of the rear seats - just flip them up and squeeze the 2 bars together and remove.
Fold down the seat backs.
Then remove the side trim in the footwell (single screw and a clip into the floor.
Prise up the door sill trim (6 or so metal spring clips), ease the end from the rear speaker panel.
Then open the rear window and prise up the window rubber along the length of the rear speaker panel.
From the bottom of the door pillar pull the panel away from the bodywork working from bottom to top.
Then pull it away along the window and disconnect the speaker (and the internal movement sensor button on the drivers side panel) and remove the panel.
The interference will be due to an aftermarket HU I assume someone has fitted. They have either used the wrong adapter (should be RCA input adapter PC9-404). Or the HU needs a better earth (chassis of the HU to chassis of the car).

 

[kaizokuninja]

Does anyone know what the mounting depth is on the rear speaker set?

And am i going to need to buy adapters to get them to fit or not?

Cheers Andymac for the previous post =)

 

[AndyMac]

You need mounting adapters in order to fit anything as they aren't a standard fitment. The 3 mounting posts stand proud of the aperture in both the front & rear door cards. The rears have no depth issues, there is about 8 inches of space behind the rear trim, loads of room. To retrofit 6.5" coxials in the rear you will need some 18mm MDF spacer rings, just to fill the gap between the speaker and the mounting posts.

 

[kaizokuninja]

Is it best to make these myself or is there somewher i can buy them cheaply? Gosh darn pain in the *** process!

I noticed in another post that you recommended rewiring the rears directly from the head unit? I take it I should probably do this as I will be messing about with the rear cards off anyways.

Also, regarding the inteference i get in the rear speakers. The car had a kenwood stereo in when i bought i and then i had some paintwork done and the stereo needed a code to start up again so is now a fancy paperweight. I installed my Clarion stereo in but didn't update any connections, i guess i pretty much bodged it.

I'll check the earth connection when i have the stereo out to check connections and then i'll also reqire the rears.

Cheers dude.
Tom

 

[AndyMac]

Ebay for the rings:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/6-5-17cm-MDF-...nment_GPS_Car_Speakers_PP?hash=item439c756f85
Then just use the OEM speaker to mark the 3 holes for the mounting posts and drilll these out with an 8mm bit. The ring then fits over the posts flush to the aperture and can be screwed to the speaker panel using the stock screws. The new speaker then attaches to the MDF.
Yes you can rewire the rears directly to the HU, this will get rid of the interference, but you still need the feed to the sub. If the Clarion has a non fading sub pre-out then use this via the adapter you already have. You'll then need to jack up the sub level because the feeble 50w sub will struggle to compete with the 50w+ now going to the cabin speakers.