Clutch Life S4

GeoffDunk

Registered User
Hi all,

Just wanted some advice on clutch life info for a 2003 S4, it also has 111k on the clock?

How long shoudld they last ( driving style taken into consideration) and what should be replaced when changing the clutch if a change is required? My initial list would inlcude the rear engine oil seal as mine leaks but should I include other items while in there?

Any other ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated.

regards,

Geoff
 

jutlis 3.0

Registered User
rear seal as you said and once they start you can end up with quite a leak there, i had mine done and most people replace the fly wheel as well. S4's often seem to have it all done around 80-120k, some less if people have a habit of launching them from standstill which they don't put up with for very long.
 

dualmono21

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
if you need to put the car into the service position to do any of the work

auxillary belt
front engine mount ...
may also want to check main engine mounts while its all it ... if you have any fluid leaking from engine mounts then change them
 

GeoffDunk

Registered User
Thanks for the details guys, I can start putting a list together (my 100K list).

I had seen someone list jobs to undertake and parts to inspect/replace and or repair at 100K but couldn't find it.

I had asked this question a couple of weeks ago regarding jobs for 100K MILE s4 but nobody had much to add. see here

 

dualmono21

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
snub mount is the front engine mounting
it basically tries to counteract the lateral forces when the car is revved ... and so the car doesnt jump from side to side like a lot of old american v8,s when revved

its fitted in two parts one fits with 3 allen key bots to the engine itself the other part is the reciever which at the back of the radiator mountings on the front of the car .... you need the car in the service position to replace it
whilst its in the service position its easier to replace the auxillary belt and tensioner
and if you have cam cover leaks like many s4,s its easier to replace the rubber gaskets and seals while its like this as theres very little room to work
 

GeoffDunk

Registered User
snub mount is the front engine mounting
it basically tries to counteract the lateral forces when the car is revved ... and so the car doesnt jump from side to side like a lot of old american v8,s when revved

its fitted in two parts one fits with 3 allen key bots to the engine itself the other part is the reciever which at the back of the radiator mountings on the front of the car .... you need the car in the service position to replace it
whilst its in the service position its easier to replace the auxillary belt and tensioner
and if you have cam cover leaks like many s4,s its easier to replace the rubber gaskets and seals while its like this as theres very little room to work

Thanks for that info, I have replaced the rocker cover gaskets, did that as soon as I got the car and I keep an eye on them for obvious reasons.

Also, can you explain "the service position", what do you actually mean?
 

dualmono21

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
to properly service the s4 and some of the a4,s audi designed to car so as you can remove the front grille and the headlights
and put the car into whats known as the service position
the bolts are removed from the front panel and two extra ones are put in
from there the entire front assembly can be pulled forward around 6-8" to assist in any servicing requirements
 

GeoffDunk

Registered User
I geussed that was what it was. This is common on most VAG vehicles, my Golfs and Passats were the same.

Thanks for the clarification guys.
 

IceHanger

Active Member
VCDS Map User
Thanks for that info, I have replaced the rocker cover gaskets, did that as soon as I got the car and I keep an eye on them for obvious reasons.

Also, can you explain "the service position", what do you actually mean?

Service position on mine when I did the Aux belt..ie a PITA!
photo.jpg
 

dsmclark40v

Registered User
You should also change your clutch slave cylinder while you have the box out. Are you changing the flywheel as well?
 

GeoffDunk

Registered User
Will do.

Flywheel is on the list along with:

Clutch, pressure and friction
Thrust bearing
Flywheel
Rear crank seal
Cam chain tensioners
engine nounts
clutch slave cylinder

Anyone have any other ideas or additions?
 

dualmono21

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
why are you changing the cam chain tensioners geoff ??
are they especially noisey ???
 

GeoffDunk

Registered User
Not excessively noisy yet but they are not as quiet as I'd like. While we have access I will change them.

On cold start up they rattle for a second or two.
 

dualmono21

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
thats normal .. if the rattle goes on any longer than a couple of seconds then you have trouble
very shortly there should be other options available that will mean you will no longer need to resort to having tensioners replaced
 

GeoffDunk

Registered User
thats normal .. if the rattle goes on any longer than a couple of seconds then you have trouble
very shortly there should be other options available that will mean you will no longer need to resort to having tensioners replaced

Would like to know a bit more!
 

rjm180

Registered User
Now you've started something, come on we need to know! Please!
 

dsmclark40v

Registered User
Not excessively noisy yet but they are not as quiet as I'd like. While we have access I will change them.

On cold start up they rattle for a second or two.

You won't have access I am afraid with the gearbox off. Needs the whole engine out to change those. My old car even after having every tensioner changed still rattled. In the end changing to 5w40 oil changed every 4-5k stopped it rattling
 

GeoffDunk

Registered User
You won't have access I am afraid with the gearbox off. Needs the whole engine out to change those. My old car even after having every tensioner changed still rattled. In the end changing to 5w40 oil changed every 4-5k stopped it rattling

Cheers for that, good info and top tip.

Added a reputation pint for that one!!!
 

GeoffDunk

Registered User

dualmono21

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
there is a product which is in pre production at the moment
when finished it should allow you to connect a second oil line up to the 0il filter housing
this second line is attached to a pressurised oil container and when the engine is switched on the container actuates and forces extra oil into the oil filter housing and pressurises the tensioners in the engine
this should hopefully cure the start up rattle
 

GeoffDunk

Registered User
You won't have access I am afraid with the gearbox off. Needs the whole engine out to change those. My old car even after having every tensioner changed still rattled. In the end changing to 5w40 oil changed every 4-5k stopped it rattling

With the rear seal leeking I change the oil regular by default.

What 5w40 oil are you using, I am currently using 5w30 as specified by Audi?
 

GeoffDunk

Registered User
there is a product which is in pre production at the moment
when finished it should allow you to connect a second oil line up to the 0il filter housing
this second line is attached to a pressurised oil container and when the engine is switched on the container actuates and forces extra oil into the oil filter housing and pressurises the tensioners in the engine
this should hopefully cure the start up rattle

Who's developing this?
 

dualmono21

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
the company producing this is in the states
when the product is finished i will be the installing the system on my car to ensure it works o.k
if everything is o.k from there they will be making a limited production run of the parts

all in all with parts the system should be around £500 plus fitting , but apparently is so easy to install that most people simply do it themselves

if people are interested please let me know and i can feed this back to the company
 

SuperV8

Registered User
the company producing this is in the states
when the product is finished i will be the installing the system on my car to ensure it works o.k
if everything is o.k from there they will be making a limited production run of the parts

all in all with parts the system should be around £500 plus fitting , but apparently is so easy to install that most people simply do it themselves

if people are interested please let me know and i can feed this back to the company

This already exists, called an Accusump.
Will deliver pressurised oil on start up and if ever the oil pressure drops.

Tom.
 

dsmclark40v

Registered User
With the rear seal leeking I change the oil regular by default.

What 5w40 oil are you using, I am currently using 5w30 as specified by Audi?

I used Fuchs Titan Race Pro Sadly no longer own the car. What make oil do you currently use? You could always try the Fuchs in 5w30 first to see if it clears up the rattle.
 

dualmono21

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
accusump can be used yes a long with lots of differant brand systems which are designed to stop oil starvation when cornering hard

however nobody at present makes an adaptor which is specific to the bhf and bbk engines
so it is difficult to plumb it in and get it work correctly

i still use fuch titan 5w30 as it seems to help with the start up
 
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