Clutch Bleeding....

Or for us mere mortals... use a pressure bleeder such as the Gunson Eezibleed set at 15psi.... make sure the bleed nipple on the gearbox is shut, pump the clutch pedal half a dozen times (normally by hand on first bleed after a clutch swap) then with the pedal up undo the bleed nipple and let some fluid out (use a clear tube or similar if you can else fluid gets everywhere and needs cleaning up after)

Repeat a number of times until the pedal is up and you are confident you can't see any obvious air bubbles coming out the bleed nipple

<tuffty/>
 
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Thanks Tuffty,

I'm a little concerned as I've had my clutch and flywheel replaced and the clutch bite is still 1 cm form the top of the pedal.

Since the replacement I now have a constant seep of red Hyd fluid appearing around the gearbox casing every time I go to the car in the morning.

The mechanic says he bled it 3 times as he couldn't get the pedal feel.
On the 3rd attempt he says he backwards bled it from the clutch bleed nipple using the pressure bleeder. I'm really hoping by not doing it correctly that he's not knackered the seals in the master or slave cylinder and thats the cause of the hid fluid suddenly leaking!!!

Thoughts????









Or for us mere mortals... use a pressure bleeder such as the Gunson Eezibleed set at 15psi.... make sure the bleed nipple on the gearbox is shut, pump the clutch pedal half a dozen times (normally by hand on first bleed after a clutch swap) then with the pedal up undo the bleed nipple and let some fluid out (use a clear tube or similar if you can else fluid gets everywhere and needs cleaning up after)

Repeat a number of times until the pedal is up and you are confident you can't see any obvious air bubbles coming out the bleed nipple


<tuffty/>
 
Red fluid seep? unless your brake fluid is red then its not likely to be the clutch slave leaking..

I'd check the power steering fluid... this shouldn't be red either (needs to be mineral fluid not the normal auto transmission stuff) but its possible someone has used it in error... PS pipes need to be moved when removing the box and the pipework is known to leak over time...

As for the pedal... air in the clutch system will manifest as a notchy feel... if the pedal travel is consistent but the bite point at the top thats more an issue with the clutch than the pedal or bleeding...

What clutch kit did you use? and where was it sourced?

<tuffty/>
 
Yeah I'd initially thought power steering pipes as well, but the fluid is more a yellow and the tank level is fine. The brakes fluid is clear so again not brakes.

The clutch feels smooth throughout with no notchiness or resistance.

The garage sourced an LUK Clutch and flywheel on my instruction. I think it was sourced through Highland motor parts.
 
Did they replace the slave cylinder or reuse the existing one?

<tuffty/>
 
I believe it came with a release bearing as part of the clutch. I'll have to check with them. If it was;t part of the clutch kit I'm guessing they would have re-used it,
 

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