Hi all my son has a 2007 a3 2.0 s line 170bhp bmn he went out in the car and said when he put the car on full lock on the rightside and can hear a clunk on the left side when turning the noise is not like clunk,clunk,clunk,clunk while you are turning if will be a clunk and then a bit of movement and then a clunk again sorry for sounding daft but this is how my son has explained it to me thanks for any help.
Clunking noise on full lock
- Thread starter darrenvalleys12
- Start date
Alexjw_S3
Registered User
I am booked into the garage for the same thing on the 12th. Suspect it’s my top mounts (on the springs). One of them will likely have a bearing gone. So I bought two new OEM top mounts for under £40. The sound is probably the spring ‘jumping’ slightly causing a little clunk noise. Worse when I’ve been parked up over night and reverse off the driveway right hand down and then goes away once I set off.
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Sorry to deviate from the original post but ....
If you are getting the garage to do the job make sure they torque the front shock top nut (which holds it to the mount/bearing) to the correct setting , think it’s 44 lbs/ft IIRC, if the torque isn’t right it can ruin the bearing quite quickly.
To the OP, I’d also check out the front CV joints and track rod ends....
These sort of noises are difficult to diagnose as often when eventually traced the cause wasn’t anywhere near the suspected place.
If you are getting the garage to do the job make sure they torque the front shock top nut (which holds it to the mount/bearing) to the correct setting , think it’s 44 lbs/ft IIRC, if the torque isn’t right it can ruin the bearing quite quickly.
To the OP, I’d also check out the front CV joints and track rod ends....
These sort of noises are difficult to diagnose as often when eventually traced the cause wasn’t anywhere near the suspected place.
Sorry to sound daft but is there anyway of checking this, to confirm that this may be the problem thanks
ive had both of these issues last year (alex's top mount bearing issue, and yours sons cv joint).
top mount bearing issue was singular very loud 'DONK' noise which echos through the front of the car when turning full lock to one side. doesnt matter if youre moving or not. caused by the spring being twisted then jumping on the because there isnt a bearing to allow it to freely rotate with the steering. (btw alex, my failed bearing was also accompanied by a snapped spring. where did you get a pair of oem top mounts and bearings for £40 out of interest)
your sons issue will only present itself when moving at full lock opposite to the failed side. so full lock right=left side outer cv joint, and vice versa. will not do it when stationary, as the cv wont be turning.
options- replace the outer cv joint, or replace the entire axle/driveshaft. i went with the latter as it was the best option for me.
just checked the parts available for your car, and the prices arent that bad (relative to what was available for mine).
only brands id use are f.a.g, skf, spidan, lobro. last 2 are owned by gkn who usually make driveshafts for vw.
if you can get an oem from a dealer, thatd be best but price wise i was quoted £150 for a cv joint alone.
price wise for a cv joint you are looking around the £40-50 mark for one from the above companies.
for an entire driveshaft youre looking at £90 for an skf, £140 for a lobro and £190 for a spidan.
there are cheaper options such as j&r whole shafts for £45 and £15 for the cv but tbh those are hit and miss according to reviews. i wouldnt put a cheapo on my car personally.
fitting, if you can fit it yourself, youre winning. a whole driveshaft is easier to fit compared to just the cv joint.
if going to a mechanic, youll pay anywhere from £40 to £150. changing just the cv joint is more labour intensive so you might find the labour to change the joint makes the part cost saving insignificant.
Alexjw_S3
Registered User
Here pal:
https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-car/audi/a3-8p/suspension-top-mount-bushes-pq35-platform-pair/
I am also worried about a snapped spring. I feel (maybe paranoid) that I have to correct the steering a lot during cornering. So I have no idea if the bush can cause that or whether or not the spring is shagged too! Also get a bit of steering wheel vibration, despite having two new front tyres fully balanced when going over 70mph. May not be linked!
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Cheers.
Thats just the rubber top mount, doesn't include the bearing.
https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-car/audi/a3-8p/suspension-top-mount-bearing-pq35-platform-pair/
Still not a bad price for the pair. Ruville brand bearings (although theyll most likely have f.ag or skf or ina stamped on them) , i assume the same for the mounts.
I had the same symptoms especially having to correct the steering. Let the car settle for a week after getting it sorted then get it aligned q
Thats just the rubber top mount, doesn't include the bearing.
https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-car/audi/a3-8p/suspension-top-mount-bearing-pq35-platform-pair/
Still not a bad price for the pair. Ruville brand bearings (although theyll most likely have f.ag or skf or ina stamped on them) , i assume the same for the mounts.
I had the same symptoms especially having to correct the steering. Let the car settle for a week after getting it sorted then get it aligned q
sorry for late reply thanks to all for the help my son is going to have a look when he get's a dry day will give a update when we find out what it is
Broken spring is a favourite for causing these clunks as well. To check it properly, remove the front wheels and use a small mirror to look into the spring cups.
