Cheapest way to get a new key?


Registered User
I have read a lot of threads with information about ways to get new keys, but if you have replaced a key how did you do it and how much did it cost?

It seems like it costs more if you don't know the cars PIN(?) number, which I obviously don't have...

I wouldn't mind getting a key that didn't have the remote part if it made it alot cheaper.



Staff member
The problem is that you need a code (often referred to as SKC (Secret Key Code)) to log-in to the immobiliser to 'pair' the new key with it.

You may even have one which can be used - there's a white plastic fob which is attached to the emergency key when the car was new, if you open that up and scratch off the panel, there's a 4-digit number; anyone with VAG-COM (and the right instructions) can then match your new key to the immobiliser.

The 4-digit code was the 'old' way of doing things; since that point VAG moved to a 7-digit code, which was valid for only one day (but if you knew the date it was issued VAG-COM could make it work whenever) - the problem now though, is that the workshop can't just pull-out a code and give it to you; everything is done live online with HQ in the Fatherland, so they don't see the key to let you have it. Basically if you don't have a 4-digit SKC in a fob; a dealership will have to code the key for you.

The difference between a remote and non-remote key isn't horrendous in price (if you're buying away from a dealership); the only concern you have really is the part number of the remote - they're not all the same, different frequencies and other attributes mean that not every remote works on every car. ETKA/ETOS can show you which remotes will work with which central locking modules.

If you can get a key remote/non-remote outside the dealer, it'll be a bit cheaper for you - but you'll probably have to persuade the dealer to match a part that they didn't supply; but whether you buy the key from them or not, they'll still want a good few quid to code it.



PS> And now for what was orignally going to be my answer... ;)



Registered User
So could you not ask nicely at Audi and get that 7 digit code, knowing what day you got it on? After that couldn't you get the right key off ebay, get it just and the transponder matched then a kind fellow with VAG com would match the key to the car?

It's just that I refuse to pay near enough £200 for a new key...


Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat
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Beware of also that newer cars have different immo systems that have a few changes made, namely the immo chip is now one car use only, coded with a brand eg. VW, Audi etc, also it is encoded with your VIN number from germany so its basically sent to the dealer with half coded state, they then as Rob rightly says connect to germany & the SKC is transferred from your cluster to the key via VAS5052 without any dealer viewing of the actual code these days, so you have no chance in hell of dealer giving you the skc purely cause they dont see it at all.

8L was ok so isnt as above, but B7, 8P newer can cars I have noticed with higher immo versions work like this, so buying an ebay key might not help you tbh, my B6 S4 worked on 2 ebay keys which dealer coded but think that was where the systems changed, so you have been warned, I personally would always use the dealer for immo because anyone could clone your key while doing one for you if they have the correct kit, its a risk I wouldnt be prepared to take.

If you refuse to pay £200 for security of your car then there's something wrong with you mate, for me peace of mind knowing its been done without any viewing of skc & possibility of cloning/key blade copied is worth more to me than saving a buck.

There is however someone on AS who does the key coding etc on 8L, cant remember who was, might have been A3MAD, do a search, your choice of course but for once I'd use my dealer for this work.

Right back to my new turbo fitting.
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