changing brakes
- Thread starter s3 jack
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Haynes manual, for A3. Alot of it is relevant for the S3 just not all. Pretty simple job. Take your time with it all and check you have everything. Bleeding your brakes, you need to bleen master cylinder, two bleed nipples. You will need to loosen the charge pipe to get access. Best buying a Gunson Eezibleed kit £18.
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If you're just changing discs and pads its very simply. If you're thinking of changing the brake fluid then it can be a pain.
I dont have a guide for discs and pads but its fairly straight forward. I would suggest buying a rubber mallet to get the old discs off as they can stick to the hubs and be a PITA to get off.
I dont have a guide for discs and pads but its fairly straight forward. I would suggest buying a rubber mallet to get the old discs off as they can stick to the hubs and be a PITA to get off.
i'm not trying to be funny ,but if you need a guide please get someone to help you do it the first time at least. the fronts are straight forward and much the same as most cars , if you have changed other cars before then you will have no problem if not ask a mate to guide you this time, your life depends on them being done right
Rob
Rob
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agreed but, everybody has to start somewhere, he can always get them checked afterwards to make sure hes ok? and it is pretty straight forward, they will work or not, if he doesnt mind getting his hands dirty he must have a little mechanical knowledge...
Taken from http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/83573.aspx?PageIndex=1 similar to what you need to do.....
Wheel off.
Remove spring clip from the front of caliper - Large Screwdriver
Two removable caps on he rear of the caliper seated into a rubber cover, Take them out undo and remove the two allen bolts (7mm - I think) Once these are out work the caliper off the disk using pressure on the top and bottom of the caliper, Remove pads, Cable tie the caliper up out the way on the coil spring.
Two 18mm Bolts secure the Caliper carrier (18mm Socket)
One Torx Bolt holds the disk on, Remove this, Give it a tap to free it off.
use a wire brush to clean all the mating surfaces, So they are clean.
Fit new disk, Re-Fit the caliper Carrier (after you clean it up)
Take the caliper and G-Clamp, Insert the threaded end into the caliper and rest the other end on the rear of the caliper, Now wind the piston back in, Insert pad with the clip into the piston/caliper, Put the other pad in the carrier on the outside (remember to copper slip the rears) Slide the caliper back into position, Do up the Allen bolts and refit caps.
Refit the spring clip, Put on end into the hole and locate that side into the aproperiate place on the carrier, Apply a bit of force and put the other end into the hole (it wont go fully) Try and hold them like this and force the part that isnt lining up at the moment into the same place on the carrier.
Pump the pedal up, i would blead them, But strictly speaking it should need it.
Are you asleep yet?
Make sure everythnig is Copperslip'd and free moving to avoid squeeks and squeels.
wasn't trying too belittle you Jack would have given the same reply and have given the same reply to anyone asking that question, dave's guide above covers it well , but i would add remove brake reservoir cap when you push the piston back do that slowly as not to damage the seals in the master cylinder , better still open the bleed nipple a little so that the displaced fluid excapes instead of going back to the master cylinder , retighten nipple after the pistons back fully ,and last job check the fluid level which ever method you use
Rob
Rob
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