CE 8P0907279 to BCM 8P0907063

Hey mate,

I have ElsaWin version 6.0 free for you to download if you like :).
Also have ETKA 7.5 and 8 if you need so...

Just hit me up and I'll share a link with you to my storage.
For anybody though...

View attachment 249367

ElsaWin 23GB
ETKA 11GB
Hi mate!

Well, the truth is that elsawin would help me a lot, since in the online versions it seems that not everything appears.

Can you send me the link here or by DM?

Thanks a lot!
 
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Hey mate,

I have ElsaWin version 6.0 free for you to download if you like :).
Also have ETKA 7.5 and 8 if you need so...

Just hit me up and I'll share a link with you to my storage.
For anybody though...

View attachment 249367

ElsaWin 23GB
ETKA 11GB

Tim can you send me a link over WhatsApp? It’d be interesting to see what 6.0 has and etka is definitely handy


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Congratulations on the pregnancy mate!
Yes please, any diagram can be of great help! My email is revilonoel@gmail.com
Thanks a lot!

Sent you some diagrams bud but remember to list everything from J519 and J393 from the 2004 ones and check them against 2009 J519 it’s a pig but has to be done.


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Couldn't resist. Let's see how it goes...
 

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Did the swap this weekend. I'd say it's a two-day job, depending on previous experience with retrofitting. LHD vehicle, early 2009 facelift with CECM/CC and bixenon.

Did not disassemble the car as much as shown earlier in this thread. I removed luggage compartment side panels and floor, rear seat, interior trim along left side of vehicle, A-pillar trim and driver side footwell trim. Extension wiring from centr. convenience unit along left side of the car made up from 0,35mm2 and 0,5mm2 multicolor wires. In my case 13 wires. New wires to power convenience functions in BCM and new light switch directly from fuse box C as per factory wiring diagram.

Most wires in CECM plugs can be directly transferred to BCM plugs. Some wires have to be extended, and some wires need new pins. I bought the BCM with relays and plugs incl. wire ends. This is a great advantage as you can keep track of which pins you have moved and if wire gauge/color matches.

Remote control learning procedure in adaptation 001, all OK. Everything working at 1st start up, except for a terminal 50 open circuit fault code (suspect it is due to coding for start/stop system in donor car?).

I bought the 8P0 907 063 N unit with sw 0667. This version has support for LED number plate light per coding, so I finally could install my OEM LED number plate lights lol :D

Next up: Taping all wires and HBA mirror install.
 

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Looks like a familiar mess the LED number plate coding is a bit deceptive, at least for the TT BCMs. The 2009/2010 modules accept the coding but give faults still. 2011 revision ones don't. Looks like yours works well though
 
Did the swap this weekend. I'd say it's a two-day job, depending on previous experience with retrofitting. LHD vehicle, early 2009 facelift with CECM/CC and bixenon.

Did not disassemble the car as much as shown earlier in this thread. I removed luggage compartment side panels and floor, rear seat, interior trim along left side of vehicle, A-pillar trim and driver side footwell trim. Extension wiring from centr. convenience unit along left side of the car made up from 0,35mm2 and 0,5mm2 multicolor wires. In my case 13 wires. New wires to power convenience functions in BCM and new light switch directly from fuse box C as per factory wiring diagram.

Most wires in CECM plugs can be directly transferred to BCM plugs. Some wires have to be extended, and some wires need new pins. I bought the BCM with relays and plugs incl. wire ends. This is a great advantage as you can keep track of which pins you have moved and if wire gauge/color matches.

Remote control learning procedure in adaptation 001, all OK. Everything working at 1st start up, except for a terminal 50 open circuit fault code (suspect it is due to coding for start/stop system in donor car?).

I bought the 8P0 907 063 N unit with sw 0667. This version has support for LED number plate light per coding, so I finally could install my OEM LED number plate lights lol :D

Next up: Taping all wires and HBA mirror install.

Too be fair I did strip the whole car out to tidy up about 10 years worth of “quick” retrofits were if the rats nest was behind a trim it was fine. I forgot to mention I did also change my single stage airbag for a dual. There was a ton of other stuff going on when I did mine. You’re right though if your doing just the ops to bcm change you only really need to take a few trims off. Congrats on the swap though bud that’s another one of us out there lol


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Looks like a familiar mess the LED number plate coding is a bit deceptive, at least for the TT BCMs. The 2009/2010 modules accept the coding but give faults still. 2011 revision ones don't. Looks like yours works well though
It's software related AFAIK. SW 575 and 615 do not support this function, and according to Micha's blog this byte/bit has another function which is why coding is accepted. Older units can apparently be updated: TPI 2021271 (SVM Code 09A001) and TPI 2029738 (SVM Code 09A008).

@Troubs12 Thanks. I had a feeling that several projects were involved in your strip down ;)
 
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It's software related AFAIK. SW 575 and 615 do not support this function, and according to Micha's blog this byte/bit has another function which is why coding is accepted. Older units can apparently be updated: TPI 2021271 (SVM Code 09A001) and TPI 2029738 (SVM Code 09A008).

@Troubs12 Thanks. I had a feeling that several projects were involved in your strip down ;)

I lost track I think I wanted to remove my old folding mirror on lock mod, change the Bose loom I made for a proper one, remove the second AMI and a bunch of wires had to go into the engine bay but properly rather than short cutting.

After though I must say it’s nice driving it knowing everything is as per and apart from the odd bit of yellow tape to denote a crimp it looks as standard as I can get it. Trouble is now I’ve decided to try and fit the 8V blind spot assist so put it all comes lol


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I lost track I think I wanted to remove my old folding mirror on lock mod, change the Bose loom I made for a proper one, remove the second AMI and a bunch of wires had to go into the engine bay but properly rather than short cutting.

After though I must say it’s nice driving it knowing everything is as per and apart from the odd bit of yellow tape to denote a crimp it looks as standard as I can get it. Trouble is now I’ve decided to try and fit the 8V blind spot assist so put it all comes lol


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You had 2 AMIs?

So keen to know how you get on with the blind spot retrofit!
 
You had 2 AMIs?

So keen to know how you get on with the blind spot retrofit!

I’ll definitely update when I give it a go it would be good to know if it works or not. But we’ve a 3 week old baby dictating our lives at the minute lol.

Yeah I used a second Ami wired via a bank of 4 12v relays and spliced into the power, can and audio out. With no power to the relays the relays were in the normally closed position and in the NC position the normal ami was usable and it behaved as expected. But when the relays were turned on via a little switch the relays were switched on and the second ami and dension dab unit took the place of the first and I had dab on my rnse.

I changed my centre console for the American one and lost the place were I hid the switch. Also I think I’ve found a way of getting a Juna Dab unit in the UK so i didn’t see the point of keeping it.

I’ve finally set aside some time to get the rear of the car off the ground so I can get the bumper off and fit everything. The mirrors have been on the car for months just waiting for me to get my act together haha.

I do also have to fit the magride shocks and ecu I picked up but I have to make a loom for that. I gotta bang it in for mot next week so it might have to wait.

b9fa0c44aa94c42408aae482dd650161.jpg


ed2f7c280020b04fb0138b9aa89794ef.jpg



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Installed HBA mirror today, had to change gateway and add powertrain CAN bus to the mirror plug. It works after coding, but my white cluster does not show the HBA icon, only blue high beam when activated.

Anyway. I have a persistent fault code after the BCM swap. I've already tried two dimmer switches, so I doubt it's the switch. All wires traced and triple checked against wiring diagrams, they're OK. Any ideas?
Code:
02195 - Dimmer Switch Instrument Panel & Switch Lighting (E20)
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
 
Forgot to say, interior lights and dash stay lit at full brightness when lights on, independent of scroll wheel position for dimming. Fault won't clear.
 
How have you wired your dimmer switch?

Also what age is your cluster? Is it a very early white one? I am assuming it must be if you had a CECM fitted
 
How have you wired your dimmer switch?

Also what age is your cluster? Is it a very early white one? I am assuming it must be if you had a CECM fitted
Yep, 10/2008 production. Wiring as shown in attached images.
 

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Hmm that matches what I have. Might be worth checking the continuity and making sure you put them in the right pins as it's easy to make mistakes with this many wires!
 
Nice to see there is someone brave enough to start project like that. I already installed HBA even I got CCM 279 because my Can gateway support HBA, interesting but my can gateway dont have box 20 to check that HBA is installed but I have HBA under coding option...anyway I tested it with vcds and dimming worked fine and vcds can read it normal. I had fun with HBA because I ordered wrong cable from kufatec and rewired it on existing conector from old dimmable mirror so now when it is not conected to gateway led lights on HBA acts weird (when I turn on ignition led flashes bright then dimm and when I turn off ignition all interior light are on but power button on HBA is off so im not sure if that is ok or not).

@MT-V6 did you solved errors after you retrofitted HBA? I will appreciate any help
 
Hba won't work on the 279 module as you need momentary headlight stalk & that coding is only in 063 modules.

The autodimming will work fine, but you won't get hba, I know as I did this as a test on my car.
 
Hba won't work on the 279 module as you need momentary headlight stalk & that coding is only in 063 modules.

The autodimming will work fine, but you won't get hba, I know as I did this as a test on my car.
But my mirror for some reason turn off when sunshine is hitting it, if I go to shadow spot it turn on again so im confused did I wired it wrong or what...I tested that while CAN is disconected so dont know if i wired it wrong or it is turning off because lack of communication
 
After though I must say it’s nice driving it knowing everything is as per and apart from the odd bit of yellow tape to denote a crimp it looks as standard as I can get it. Trouble is now I’ve decided to try and fit the 8V blind spot assist so put it all comes lol
Hey Troubs! How is life with tha baby?
Did you make any progress with spot assist?
I am considering trying it.

You said you got the 8V radars?
I was thinking of the A4 B8 generation maybe could work also?

Other than radars, leds, switch, only the Higher Gateway is needed iirc.
 
Hey Troubs! How is life with tha baby?
Did you make any progress with spot assist?
I am considering trying it.

You said you got the 8V radars?
I was thinking of the A4 B8 generation maybe could work also?

Other than radars, leds, switch, only the Higher Gateway is needed iirc.

Hiya bud life with the baby is great however I’ve had zero time to get on the car for like a year however I’ve not had time to look at the spot assist nor the mag ride but I’ve also added a r8 rear camera to the mix as I have tv it’s not straight forward but then what is with me lol. I’m hoping to get something done on Tuesday so I’ll update then. Fingers crossed

I forgot to say yes I went with 8V ones but the part numbers seem to cover a few models. I got 5Q0907566 and 568 and I’m going to use the start stop on off switch (as mine doesn’t have it) as the switch for the blind spot assist.

I did however finally find a dab setup for the rnse I like which gives me a choice between dab and Ami. Expensive but worth it I think, just need to sort a decent aerial lol

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Hello all, me again. Sorry for aliving almost a dead thread. I mounted HBA and all wiring needed so now it is time for the worst - BCM rewiring. I wont ask for repin diagrams and all because someone already answered that but I will ask about dimmer switch fault that was mentioned up here, what was solution? I just ask because I'm prepairing for attack lol and want to have everything clear. Also how did yall solved that small electronic in the rear of car which you dont need anymore after installing bcm? Do I need just to mount longer wires on existing connector of that electronic and place them all the way to connect them to BCM? Thanks for all help and your time.
 
Hello all, me again. Sorry for aliving almost a dead thread. I mounted HBA and all wiring needed so now it is time for the worst - BCM rewiring. I wont ask for repin diagrams and all because someone already answered that but I will ask about dimmer switch fault that was mentioned up here, what was solution? I just ask because I'm prepairing for attack lol and want to have everything clear. Also how did yall solved that small electronic in the rear of car which you dont need anymore after installing bcm? Do I need just to mount longer wires on existing connector of that electronic and place them all the way to connect them to BCM? Thanks for all help and your time.

Hi sorry been away for awhile what is the dimmer switch problem? I had to replace my headlight switch when I did mine as the later one have an additional wire/connector. For the convenience ecu I just ran a longer harness to the rear and connected it up there.

Let me know about this dimmer switch problem aside from the headlight switch I didn’t have any issues and if I can help just shout.


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Hi sorry been away for awhile what is the dimmer switch problem? I had to replace my headlight switch when I did mine as the later one have an additional wire/connector. For the convenience ecu I just ran a longer harness to the rear and connected it up there.

Let me know about this dimmer switch problem aside from the headlight switch I didn’t have any issues and if I can help just shout.


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Thanks a lot for that fast response, I'll post when I get it rewired. Did your BCM work well till today and do you know if there is immo data in BCM which will be reprogrammed or anything else what could help me with this job? I got elsa and now only big job should be soldering all those wires in tight space
 
Thanks a lot for that fast response, I'll post when I get it rewired. Did your BCM work well till today and do you know if there is immo data in BCM which will be reprogrammed or anything else what could help me with this job? I got elsa and now only big job should be soldering all those wires in tight space

No worries I happened to have my phone in my hand when it came up I figured I best reply now or else I’ll forget. Yeah my bcm works well as well as it should I suppose. On the 8P/8J the only time you have to worry about immob data is when you need to change the instrument cluster, engine ecu or any of the keys. The remotes will need to be adapted to the bcm


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I recently did it on my TT MK2 (almost the same setup), for the same reason as you (wanting HBA). Pretty much all the above is good advice. I didn't strip as much down as above, but the mess of wires is familiar.

I started with custom adaptor looms, which overcomplicated it. Basically I removed the original connectors, then used mating ones and made looms for the CECM. Then the car worked as before and drivable

Then make looms for the BCM. However, it isn't exactly reversible, as the relays are different, the convenience module is extra, adding extra earths, extra power. Also on the TT space is tight, and getting all these connectors behind the trim is tight. I plan to try and remove the bracket that the BCM clips into next year, so there is more slack in the wires, and then cut and splice them all. That way the soldered joints will be tucked away and safe, and the BCM connectors will have more space. Again, this might differ a bit in the A3, but I think it is pretty much the same as it is mounted beside the steering column

Some other things you might find helpful:

You will need a replacement headlight switch. There are lots of versions depending on spec, so can't provide a part number without knowing what you have. It has an extra power feed from the fusebox. Not a big deal to sort initially, as with the switch disconnected the headlights will be on permanently, so can still drive the car at night

You will also need a rear view mirror for the HBA retrofit. It has an extra light sensor in the base. This is also auto dimming, and if you don't have auto dimming already the mounting is different and you might need to replace the windscreen. If you have dimming, it's much easier. The new mirror has canbus wires which need feeding to the gateway

Speaking of the gateway, it is likely your current one won't support address 20. Check this first, if not a new gateway is needed. Easy swap, just swap the gateway and code by ticking the relevant boxes in the installation list

Finally, my HBA does now work, but in my red DIS, I see no auto main beam icon. It appears when HBA is enabled, and the existing blue main beam icon only shows when main beam is actually active. I also have a fault code in the BCM regarding the instrument cluster. My thinking is that I need a newer white DIS instrument cluster to sort both these issues. I am in the process of locating a company who can clone the immobiliser coding and mileage across, as VCDS cannot do this

Anyway that is enough waffle, hopefully you and others will find it helpful!


Hi bud,

In relation to the part where you mention that it must be connected to an extra power feed from the fusebox to the new light switch, could you please tell me where I should connect it? I already have the new switch that has an extra connector, but I can't find where is the pin of the fusebox where I should connect it, and now I always go with the lights on.

Thank you so much!
 
It's in the elsawin schematics, just go read through them.
 
Did the swap this weekend. I'd say it's a two-day job, depending on previous experience with retrofitting. LHD vehicle, early 2009 facelift with CECM/CC and bixenon.

Did not disassemble the car as much as shown earlier in this thread. I removed luggage compartment side panels and floor, rear seat, interior trim along left side of vehicle, A-pillar trim and driver side footwell trim. Extension wiring from centr. convenience unit along left side of the car made up from 0,35mm2 and 0,5mm2 multicolor wires. In my case 13 wires. New wires to power convenience functions in BCM and new light switch directly from fuse box C as per factory wiring diagram.

Most wires in CECM plugs can be directly transferred to BCM plugs. Some wires have to be extended, and some wires need new pins. I bought the BCM with relays and plugs incl. wire ends. This is a great advantage as you can keep track of which pins you have moved and if wire gauge/color matches.

Remote control learning procedure in adaptation 001, all OK. Everything working at 1st start up, except for a terminal 50 open circuit fault code (suspect it is due to coding for start/stop system in donor car?).

I bought the 8P0 907 063 N unit with sw 0667. This version has support for LED number plate light per coding, so I finally could install my OEM LED number plate lights lol :D

Next up: Taping all wires and HBA mirror install.
Hi mate!

I read in your post that I should connect the light switch directly from fuse box C. Which is fuse box C? I'm quite lost as to where I should connect it, tbh. Could you help me by detailing where I should pin it please?
 
It's in the elsawin schematics, just go read through them.
I have no elsawin cause in that moment I have no pc and I’m working wih the iPad. And I’m finishing that job right now while I’m writing.

appreciate any help :)
 
Hi bud,

In relation to the part where you mention that it must be connected to an extra power feed from the fusebox to the new light switch, could you please tell me where I should connect it? I already have the new switch that has an extra connector, but I can't find where is the pin of the fusebox where I should connect it, and now I always go with the lights on.

Thank you so much!
In relation to my TT it is SC15, which is the fusebox at the end of the dashboard, and should be 15 amp. It might differ for the A3 though
 
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In relation to my TT it is SC15, which is the fusebox at the end of the dashboard, and should be 15 amp. It might differ for the A3 though


Thank you very much for your answer bud.

I understand that you are referring to the following fuse.

IMG 1146

IMG 1149


The question is that if you are referring to this fuse, apparently it marks it as 5amp. Is it because we connect the light switch that we need to increase the amperage of the fuse so much?

After pinning, do any control unit require any configuration changes?

I have compared the TT and A3 fuse boxes and they look the same. Just the amp is making me think .
A3 up to 2007:
IMG 1148

A3 from 2008 to 2012:
IMG 1150


Not today, but I'll try it during the week and I'll confirm it.

Again, thank you very much MT-V6!


PD: How is the BCM change going? Do you have it 100% operational? Any errors that you have not been able to solve?
 

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I'm not sure about that info but like I say I'm going by the TT. I'm also using Elsawin which allows you to select the model year etc

Yes I've had it all fitted and functional for probably 2 years now and had no issues
 
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I'm not sure about that info but like I say I'm going by the TT. I'm also using Elsawin which allows you to select the model year etc

Yes I've had it all fitted and functional for probably 2 years now and had no issues
I'm glad everything works perfectly. Is the HBA a good experience?

Did you install a white cluster? Do you see the high beam auto lights icon on it?
 
HBA is good rather than brilliant, but I like it. It's mostly accurate, I have to cancel it manually occasionally. Yes I have a white cluster, the red one doesn't support it, so though HBA still works, it's hard to know if it's on or not
 
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I'm still thinking about when to make the BCM change, but I have everything that you have indicated to me that I need.

The truth is I'm terrified of starting and having something not work properly and having to go back and spend weeks without a car and fully dedicated...
I wish I had someone with experience who could give me a hand, knowing how to move forward despite the obstacles.

To move forward I have already mounted the HBA interior mirror, the white cluster and the light switch.

By the way, should the facelift light switch work just by plugging in the appropriate fuse? (SC15 I suppose) Or if I don't have the BCM installed it won't work?
 
It's a big job and yes quite a commitment as you can't stop midway, I actually took a week off work for it

I doubt the new headlight switch would work with the CECM as there must be internal differences to account for the extra connector. To be honest it's not that important, if you don't have it fitted at all the headlights will default to be turned on, so you can still use the car while you work on that
 
HBA is good rather than brilliant, but I like it. It's mostly accurate, I have to cancel it manually occasionally. Yes I have a white cluster, the red one doesn't support it, so though HBA still works, it's hard to know if it's on or not

I have to admit since I did mine I very rarely use HBA nowadays not long after I finished mine I changed jobs so didn’t really need it anymore. Still glad I did it though.


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