Car won't turn over or start

PhillA3

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Hi all. I'm having an issue with starting my car. It's a 99 a3. It has no central locking pump (bought like that)
It has been fine until last week, pulled up at tesco and came back to car and it wouldn't start, wouldn't turn or anything but there was no immobiliser light on, there was a buzzing from the driver door (I think) when turning the key. After 10 minutes though it just started
Anyway, this morning I started the car and left it running to warm it up, cleared my windows and lights with a towel (it was foggy as hell outside) then turned it off. Popped into the house to get the wife, tried to start and same issue as tesco however this time it won't start at all
I've bought new batteries for the key, just in case that had something to do with it but it's the same. All lights on dash come on then go off including the immobiliser one, my battery is fully charged and only 2 months old so it isn't that.
Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated and I apologise for the essay in advance
 
And the buzzing is the fuel pump I've just realised
 
Ugh! Is ignition switch going to be a big deal? I.e price/big job?
 
Ok I've established it isn't the battery as that reads 12.46v however there is no power going to the s terminal on the starter so it seems it is the ignition switch. Does this mean buying a new switch and key?
 
Haveyou tried giving it a bump start to check it is not the starter?

mark
 
Ok. Car bump started so does that mean the ignition switch is fine and the starter is at fault?
 
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Haveyou tried giving it a bump start to check it is not the starter?

mark
Yeah it bump started so I'm guessing it's the starter and not ignition switch?
 
If when you turn to the start position there is not BATTERY VOLTAGE at the starter then its the ign switch. They are a common fail and quite easy to change, they pop off the back of the lock part iirc
 
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If when you turn to the start position there is not BATTERY VOLTAGE at the starter then its the ign switch. They are a common fail and quite easy to change, they pop off the back of the lock part iirc
I did use volt meter, black on negative terminal of battery and positive on s terminal of starter motor and got nothing. I'm guessing that's ignition switch then?
 
assuming you got someone to try and start it ( turn the key all the way) then it sounds like it
 
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assuming you got someone to try and start it ( turn the key all the way) then it sounds like it
I did.
And apologies for being a bit thick but, does it mean I'm going to need a new key if I replace the switch
 
No the switch is separate to the lock mechanism. It clips to the end of the lock barrel
 
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Ok battery voltage will be what you are looking for on the small connection when the starter engaged on key. If volts at terminal then starter, earth or ,large power wire broken.
 
No the switch is separate to the lock mechanism. It clips to the end of the lock barrel
Fantastic. Well I will try changing it at weekend and update if I win.
Thanks for all responses, massively appreciated
 
Sorry for the confusion. And the hijack. My voltage on the negative and to the s terminal is 12.6v not 11.9v when it's off and when someone tries to start it it cranks fine but the voltage goes to 9.5v is that normal and mean my ignition switch is ok @Broken Byzan
 
Ok mate cheers for heads up I charged it last night over night and when I put it in the car this morning the battery light stays on in the car now... Fu**ed battery do you think? It just randomly went off the headlight are nice and bright still and everything which is confusing me with it being the battery
 
Wow, thanks for all the response guys. I have just bumped it and gone for a half hour drive with lights on and using full beam where possible, heater on full, stereo on, and washing windows more than needed and it seems fine other than it won't start on key, but..
I was under the impression that if it was the ignition switch then it would ****** about? Or have I got my wires crossed and just being thick again
 

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