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Can't seem to get any heat into the car after several miles

Rupert49 Nov 10, 2020

  1. Rupert49

    Rupert49 Registered User

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    My S3 Saloon is now 6 years old and in all that time I've not really had an issue with heating. I've always had the right hand control set to A/C and the left hand one to Auto. The individual thermostats are set at 74degF on the left (my wife is a chilly mortal) and 70degF on my side. My expectation has always been that, with everything set to automatic, the cabin temperature would at all times equate approximately to the levels set, ie. 74 & 70 respectively. We've never had any problems, until earlier this year ...

    We were staying up in the Derbyshire Peak District for a few days in September and going off out early in the mornings. On a couple of occasions we desperately wanted some heat a mile or two down the road (always allowing time for the engine to come up to temperature), but try as I might I was unable to fathom out a way of filling the cabin with warm air. In the old days you just whacked up the heater control and warm air came as commanded. These days, with so much out of the driver's own control, we seem to be reliant on the vehicle to make those decisions for us!

    Can some kind soul please enlighten me how I can control the level of heating in the car. The massive manual does not make it at all clear .. we tried every which way the book instructed, but to no avail at the time. It must be possible to do this whilst simultaneously having the aircon turned on, otherwise how else do you prevent misting up in the depths of winter? Ever since aircon became a thing in cars I've always had mine turned to 'On' all year round. Advice here would be most welcome .. thank you.
     
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  3. RS03_SEN

    RS03_SEN Registered User

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    Does yours look like this? [​IMG]

    Sent from my GM1913 using Tapatalk
     
  4. AlS3BE

    AlS3BE Registered User

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    Mine is booked in with dealership for a similar problem.
    In my case it looks like the temp sensors either need replaced or recalibrated as between cabin and foot it’s quite far out. You can check the sensor readings if you have vcds or obd11
    Judging by more recent posts in here it might be worthwhile checking your coolant as the silica bag bursting seems to block up the heater matrix and causing heat problems. Your car is at that age it could have possibly burst.
     
    pburv likes this.
  5. Bigjase88

    Bigjase88 Registered User

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    Burst silicate bag in coolant expansion tank. This gets into the cooling system and finds its way to your heater matrix (what supplys warm cabin air) and clogs it up.

    new heater matrix required and complete flush of cooling system.

    Budget £1000-1200 depending where you go as it is a dash out all day job to replace, you may also require new coolant expansion header tank

    tell tale sign would be brown looking coolant in expansion tank
     
  6. Rupert49

    Rupert49 Registered User

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    Thank you RS03_SEN, that's exactly like mine (even down to the face mask!). I've just read other replies below yours and have a feeling that this might be something worth mentioning to my Audi dealership when it goes in for its annual service and MOT in a couple of weeks time.
     
  7. mikeking745

    mikeking745 Registered User

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    I had a failed coolant shut off valve on mine that was stopping the flow to the heater matrix. Was easy enough to replace. Part was £60 ish from TPS iirc.
     
  8. Rupert49

    Rupert49 Registered User

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    Thanks for all your comments .. I'll report back after service. I'm hoping that, with only just over 21,000 miles covered from new, important components haven't yet worn out!
     
  9. RS03_SEN

    RS03_SEN Registered User

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    Christ, that mileage I'd be fuming if I had to pay a grand to fix it.
    Fingers crossed it's something cheap to sort!

    Sent from my GM1913 using Tapatalk
     
  10. Rupert49

    Rupert49 Registered User

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    I said I'd report back after the annual service and MOT:

    Upshot of the heater issue was a defective heater valve, requiring the fitting of a new Coolant/Pump Valve. This cost £116.58 (part) and £212.50 (labour) in addition to the interim service + MOT at approx. £250 .. all prices (not MOT) subject to VAT.

    If a job needs doing and you know and trust the dealership like I do, it's money well spent .. they always treat me like royalty there! At least some of the worst case scenarios mentioned above didn't materialise.
     
    CraigM likes this.

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