Cannot rotate engine, hard lock / clunk at 80% rotation on crank.

[Stuart B]

I have the downpipe disconnected, the turbo oil return pipe disconnected the coolant feed pipe from the after run pipe off and good access to the oil feed banjo. Considering if the engine is gonna be okay the plan is replace all this I'm going to take this off in one go...

My breaker bar seems too springy for these awful bolts.


So.... friendly query, what scientific process is followed with the chinafold porting.. I'm clearly miles away from this, but is it possible as an amateur or does it involve 'stuff' i know it's about a cylinder 3 misfire, and manufacturing defects being polished out.

 

[Stuart B]

Incidentally, this is the hybrid turbo I am 'currently' considering. ATE370 ... The reason it's not the latest is purely because I have a v3 TIP already. Unless this has some real dodgy reviews of course.

https://www.aetmotorsportshop.co.uk/products/aet-turbos-hybrid-k04-1-8t-20v-bam-370bhp

These are pretty expensive bits of kit. Bill's deal is really good @ 1800..

 

[S3AMJ]

Its basically the sister turbo of the AET K04-380 that Badger5 uses for there kit. I doubt there would be any bad reviews from that turbo being as it’s made by AET. A good choice in my opinion if you’ve already got the 80mm TIP and Chinafold manifold.

Having said that, does the V3 TIP turbo end narrow down to fit a standard K04? In which case you’d need to change this anyway? If it was me, I’d spend the extra £100 and get the K04-380.


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[Stuart B]

Looking at my shopping list - are these rods to be avoided?

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32810424745.html

 

[<tuffty/>]

Not drilled .. I'd avoid non drilled rods

<tuffty/>

 

[ADs3]

This is some terrible luck Stuart, can you not just try & pick up a known good engine & install that or are you looking for excuses to build something a bit more fruity

 

[Stuart B]

yeah I could buy another TT for the price of the proposed turbo setup, but I have owned one and will be in the same situation in 6 months - it's really an excuse to carry on "hobbying" - just terrible timing really. it'll be interesting to discover exactly what caused what which caused what (clearly I am the first point of failure. )

my current speculation is <-- note speculation

the screwdriver bit jammed in the observation hole ring gear teeth after about 5 turns - this stopped the crank and the cam shaft span on 2 teeth. when I rolled the engine back on the crank the bit disappeared into the bottom of the bellhousing but what I have now is interference on cylinder 4 as the cam shaft gets to TDC before the pistons. (it might all be wrong - but I have checked other spark plug holes and only cylinder 4 has easy to see scratches.

 

[badger5]

be pretty unusual for the cam belt to jump teeth like this.
was this on just starting the engine, and it would'nt or forcing it with a bar on the crank pulley back and forth etc? marks would be out of line if jumped teeth? Did you check?

 

[Stuart B]

Do you mean did I check the timing marks? Yeah see below, but also the belt doesn't seem tight enough to me? I have driven about 1000 miles after changing the belt.

If I remember...
The crank tooth in the middle of the bolt hole is supposed to point to the bump and the nipple on the crank pulley pointing at about 4 o'clock

It makes little difference to be honest, as the head will hopefully be off tonight, I was hoping to do it after work last night but took on the exhaust and downpipe removal instead.

 

[JonnyDerv]

Reminds me when my oil pump died and totalled the engine. Also the time I was about to sell a car and the turbo turbine housing clamp snapped taking the turbo out. Or the time something got in my turbo and destroyed the compressor wheel with no explanation. See a pattern here? We’re cursed Stuart!!! Cursed!!

 

[S3AMJ]

Reminds me when my oil pump died and totalled the engine. Also the time I was about to sell a car and the turbo turbine housing clamp snapped taking the turbo out. Or the time something got in my turbo and destroyed the compressor wheel with no explanation. See a pattern here? We’re cursed Stuart!!! Cursed!!

Haha I think we are all suckers for punishment..... but it’s what we love! Can you imagine if we didn’t need to do anything to these cars, life would be soooooo boring?!


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[Stuart B]

This car is going to remind me when I was in hospital for months and the guy next to me was talking about when he was in intensive care and the person next to him had all his insides on the outside being sorted cleaned and put back again after slipping in the shower and jamming his head in-between the two bath taps, then getting an infection in intensive care.
This is a common escalation with hospitals nowadays - I went in with a badly broken leg after being hit by a voyager - but nothing that leads to renal failure due to antibiotics due to infection due to fracture blisters due to an incorrectly fitted cast.

I knew an old lady who swallowed a fly.

 

[tcg]

Feel for you mate,it seems the S3/TT is...same $h!t,different hairstyle I still have the turbo housing here if you decide to go that way,plus I'm sure I've got a spare screwdriver bit kicking around if you never find you're AWOL one!

Good luck on your upgrading mate,at least you'll have a wicked TT by the end of it.

 

[Rainbird]

The crank tooth in the middle of the bolt hole is supposed to point to the bump and the nipple on the crank pulley pointing at about 4 o'clock

I don't recall seeing that in the manual.

As you say it doesn't really matter anyway if it's coming apart but as a point of reference it'd be nice to know for sure what's happening, rather than guessing.

 

[Stuart B]

When the head is off, I will put cylinder 1 at TDC and check the ring gear marking and we can see what's on the crank pulley. I think I recall Karl uploading a photo of crank TDC when I did the head gasket

Cylinder 4 and 1 are virtually the same place if I recall.

 

[Rainbird]

Pistons 1 & 4, and 2 & 3 will be at TDC together

 

[Stuart B]

I actually thought they passed TDC a tiny bit apart but would both be at TDC for about 5°

Okay, come on.... can i get some advice on this!
I haven't removed the driver's drive shaft or transfer box. But I must be able to find a way to undo the bracket... i just need bigger muscles..

Is it a nut and bolt or a threaded bracket? If nut and bolt i can grind the head off and tap the nut and stud through.

 

[Rainbird]

Turbo support is a threaded bracket and bolt, and can be an awkward fecker!

 

[Stuart B]

oh that irritating, I have gone through so much shampoo an shower-gel laying under the car in coolant and oil - all I achieved this evening was busting out the O2 sensors from the downpipe and post cat.

so the Haynes manual recommends removing the transfer box - but that is to allow the extraction of the turbo surely. I might put the dog bone back on to give the engine some support as I can hit a "c spanner" from above with a hammer but the engine is just moving when I whack it.

 

[tcg]

That's the nut that beat me mate,I got at it by removing the passenger arch liner and tried using a combination of socket extensions,wobbly bits,etc.

I just couldn't get enough 'purchase' on it,almost like you need one person to hold the socket on the nut and another to undo it.I think my mech used some heat to loosen mine when he did the turbo swap.

 

[tcg]

I got at it by removing the passenger arch liner

Memory fade...it was the driver's side arch

 

[Stuart B]

#winner got it out with a 13mm socket on a short 3/8 wrench and old-skool spark plug remover with a bar through the exhaust tunnel whilst holding in
position through the wheel arch (yoga yoga yoga <-- ref animal house circa ~1978?) I needed to put the dogbone mount back on.

everything is undone now and the head is loose on the engine so I will lift it clear tomorrow

 

[tcg]

Good job mate...

 

[<tuffty/>]

Looks kinda half way between a friendly (wife beater) mutton chops and a real man

<tuffty/>

 

[S3AMJ]

Done well not to lose all the skin on your hands, seems every time I work on mine I do


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[Stuart B]

A real ramp would make it so much easier - I fricken forgot the EGT sensor so need some advice over whether it is possible to repair the connections on the probe. it's really annoying as I remembered it yesterday but forgot today...

so I have found my missing bit. will get the manifold off tomorrow and look to see what might be knackered on the head.

I think this is my favourite picture from this million dollar mishap....!

 

[hydro s3]

Good you got that tool part. A new set of pistons it looks like you will need. The list will be getting longer as the more you strip down.
Seems as much work as the s3 you gave up on. Only now you can do hair cuts to help fund the build.

 

[S3AMJ]

New head as well by the looks, onwards and upwards


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[Stuart B]

I think the head can be repaired.

 

[Stuart B]

I saw a PEC piston, rod and ring kit for about £1k

 

[badger5]

lol, good effort stuart. even left the CRx imprint. Ouchy.
If you need a piston to drop in, we have a few "spares" kicking around here for you.
and rods..... *cough* whilst your there..........

 

[Stuart B]

Sweet thanks for the offer Bill, I'm going to get everything apart first and see what's what. There's a certain feeling of satisfaction knowing it's found otherwise I will always be wondering. I'll be in touch

 

[hydro s3]

Are you still thinking of the badger 5 package or will you go all out on a big turbo build now that you have it nearly stripped down?

 

[Stuart B]

no not big turbo, I will check the bores tomorrow, get the manifold and turbo off the head to check the valves - if they are all good then rods, rings and hybrid setup - that will be a low power setup then sort out fueling and post cat exhaust - this is not likely to be fast moving. as it is I am considering a short break bribe in the Cotswolds to try and drive-by badger5

 

[Stuart B]

I don't recall seeing that in the manual.

As you say it doesn't really matter anyway if it's coming apart but as a point of reference it'd be nice to know for sure what's happening, rather than guessing.

 

[Rainbird]

I don't dispute that that's handy as a ballpark, but there are proper timing marks for a reason.

 

[Stuart B]

Okay so
1. bores are smooth and somehow mark free, and lower end rotates nicely.
2. exhaust manifold with turbo still attached removed from head.

I will next...

Remove pistons rings and con rods from block.

Strip out the pcv and prepare to put in my catch can with some decent 19mm silicon. I will keep my connectors, but the cheap silicon is tat.

Fit my downpipe, I'm going to get some solvent to clean the cat.

Clean and review the head -- not really know what to look for, maybe just the valves operate and reseat correctly.

I'm pretty confident this will all work out, just need to work out when to buy each bit.

I would appreciate any help with the following questions?

Q. What's the tool for the con rod bolts? And is it the same for stock as ARP.

Q. What should i coat the exposed engine parts with, to protect them from the weather. Just like 3 in 1 spray?

Q. What solvent should I clean things like the 3 good pistons and pickup pipe with.

Thanks for any input.


I need to bag and label all the bits and pieces removed, so once I have the cash I can start putting it back together. Starting with rods and rings, oil pump, sump - returning starter motor, battery tray etc. Exciting but slow project

 

[ADs3]

A real ramp would make it so much easier - I fricken forgot the EGT sensor so need some advice over whether it is possible to repair the connections on the probe. it's really annoying as I remembered it yesterday but forgot today...

so I have found my missing bit. will get the manifold off tomorrow and look to see what might be knackered on the head.

View attachment 163468 View attachment 163469 View attachment 163470 View attachment 163471 View attachment 163472 View attachment 163473

View attachment 163475



I think this is my favourite picture from this million dollar mishap....!

View attachment 163477

I'd have to keep that piston & have it cleaned up as a trophy........that's a lovely imprint it's left stuart

 

[<tuffty/>]

Q. What's the tool for the con rod bolts? And is it the same for stock as ARP.

14mm socket for std 20mm pinned rods... ARP are 11mm but needs to the the multipoint type not the flat type

Q. What should i coat the exposed engine parts with, to protect them from the weather. Just like 3 in 1 spray?

WD40 or duck oil

Q. What solvent should I clean things like the 3 good pistons and pickup pipe with.

Brake cleaner, kerosene or similar

<tuffty/>

 

[superkarl]

I’m amazed that bit was able to get in through the inlet valve.
You’re gonna have to take the valves out that cylinder and check they aren’t bent, check the seats of the valves in the head, and obv weld and repair the damage to the head.



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