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Cannot rotate engine, hard lock / clunk at 80% rotation on crank.

Stuart B Aug 12, 2018 at 11:34 PM

  1. Stuart B

    Stuart B Well-Known Member

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    So I am pretty sure a 5mm Allen bit fell through the unbunged starter ring hole when I repaired the alternator freewheel pulley on my TT (Come on its the same) - you need to remove the inlet manifold and I lost a bit from the screwdriver.

    So I am going to remove the starter motor and buy an endoscope to have a look to see if it is retrievable.

    I'm thinking of painting every ring gear 'hole to make sure I have checked them and try and work out ' what time' is blocked.

    I'm hoping there is a ledge or similar where this allenbit has jammed itself, or maybe it's stuck in the actual ring gear and can't get past the starter motor.

    Fricken annoying
     
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  3. Prawn

    Prawn My other car is a MINI!!!!

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    Bad news Stuart!

    Is it definitely the starter hole it's fallen down? Or any danger it was down into the head whilst the inlet was off?

    If definitely the starter hole when I'd try rotating back and forward a good bit on the hope it'll wiggle free!

    Good luck!
     
  4. Stuart B

    Stuart B Well-Known Member

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    The inlet wasn't off I was undoing the right hand 2nd in allen bolt when I lost it. So annoyed i checked but had no idea if it was in the bolt falling on the way to the tray, where i put the screwdriver down. I checked all around the oil filter. The picture shows a suspicious looking scratch on the ring gear.

    Screenshot_20180813-133214_Gallery.jpg

    I am hoping that it is jammed in the ring teeth and rotates around getting stuck on a lip or similar around the viewing hole, and will be retrievable through the starter motor hole. But the clunk noise sounds like it's coming from the firewall side of the bellhousing.

    Just a blessing I suppose, I forgot to plug in the injectors otherwise the engine might have started just as it got jammed.

    Do you know if it's possible to split bellhousing by only an inch or so?
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2018 at 1:38 PM
  5. Stuart B

    Stuart B Well-Known Member

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    Also as the engine turned over for about 10 seconds before this jammed scenario points to something moving and now locking it, might be damage to one of the teeth poking out or similar.
     
  6. badger5

    badger5 www.badger5.co.uk Site Sponsor

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    how do you manage that when the alternators the other side of the engine?
     
  7. Rainbird

    Rainbird Active Member

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    You can slacken off the gearbox-to-block bolts a touch, but with driveshafts in situ I don't know how much wiggle you'll be able to get. Don't go any further than is necessary though or you'll disengage the flywheel from the gearbox input shaft spline and potentially make life even more awkward than it already is. If you can be entirely sure it's just a small bolt and it's sat at the bottom of the bellhousing then you may get away with it.

    Can you get a little endoscope in there to inspect and confirm your suspicions? I've got a small USB one somewhere with LEDs around the end that was about £2 many moons ago - something of the sort might save some time and effort.
     
  8. Vex182

    Vex182 1x S3 and 3x Fiestas.

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    Would dropping the sump show where this has fell as you can see the end of the bell housing then.
     
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  9. Stuart B

    Stuart B Well-Known Member

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    Well you need to remove the inlet manifold to remove the alternator and I used a multi bit driver. Typically, I covered the dipstick hole but honestly didn't see that exposed under the loom.

    Starter motor off after work, bore / endoscope in post for tomorrow.

    I'm hoping the crazy 1mm clearance protecting the starter will be a hint, for what's stopping the rotation.


    Screenshot_20180813-224511_Video Player.jpg
     
  10. Stuart B

    Stuart B Well-Known Member

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    That's brilliant... as I have most of a rotation If that exposes an inch of the ring gear it'll also give access to the other side of the bell housing, if not retrievable via the starter motor I will drop the sump. It'll be an excuse to clear the pick up, replace the sump as this one had been re-tapped. It'll also give access to the other side of the ring gear.

    Thanks, I'm actually boeyed by these options
     
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  11. Stuart B

    Stuart B Well-Known Member

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    I suppose I may as well have a browse around the clutch and slave cylinder when I get the 'scope delivered too..


    Thinking and a new website 'guess th e orifice.com' will totally own 'armpit or ass.com'
     
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  13. Stuart B

    Stuart B Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, I am expecting a borescope tomorrow to go in through the starter-motor hole. Whatever is stopping it, I am confident is from this. I can turn the engine from 6pm clockwise to 5pm and back to 6pm and the stop is not valves or head related with a breaker bar I could almost move the car from the jacks, it's a physical stop.
     
  14. Tj 0785

    Tj 0785 Well-Known Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User Bronze Supporter Audi S3

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    I changed my alternator with out removing the inlet manifold think I just removed the water bottle
     
  15. Stuart B

    Stuart B Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking about this, this morning, slightly different on the TT you could maybe manage it by removing the bumper, head light, power steering canister. Did you have to remove the tensioner. After doing the FMIC last weekend the bumper is much quicker.

    It was easy all from the top. Apart from this nightmare..
     
  16. Tj 0785

    Tj 0785 Well-Known Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User Bronze Supporter Audi S3

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    I just locked it in place with a fee hair pins ( no joke)
     

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