Bumble is poorly....

Blimey mate, that could have been nasty! You need to keep an eye on everything after a rebuild. I was well paranoid ;)

Tell me about it, It wasn't something I actually adjusted at all during rebuild, so it must have been happening for some time. I unbolted and rebolted the inlet manifold complete otherwise I would have done it beforehand.
 
I know I only did the exhaust ports but dam it dose sound like it goes really well

Shame about the furling problem

Keep up the good work and keep me posted
 
Cant wait to see the dyno results :eyebrows:

Hmm.. 1/4 tank in 30 seconds.. Damn, You got big injectors and powerful fuel pump :laugh::p
 
I'm just gonna guess you'll make 450+! Good thread though as it helps people like me who want to do a build Like this one day but need all the info possible!
 
I'm just gonna guess you'll make 450+! Good thread though as it helps people like me who want to do a build Like this one day but need all the info possible!

I'd like to think so, but having said that a lot as changed. In theory all the things that have changed should be for the better - that's not always the case.
 
Had issues yesterday with the turbo still blowing. Damn thing!

The problem I am pretty sure is the arch on the turbo hotside meaning that it doesn't quite seal as well as it should.

Anyway, I used the old trick that Bill suggested last time I has this issue with this turbo - a copper wire ring in the couterbore.

Popped this in last night (fortunately the bolts cam out and everything!) and this has shut the blow up immediately thankfully. I didn't use any silicone or anything else to help the seal as I wanted to know if it would actually work unaided. It has.
 
It was just the pump firing out of the rail and sending it EVERYWHERE!!

Pump probably wont flow much more than about 5 litres a minute though... So either it was disconnected for much longer than you thaught, or you didnt lose a 1/4 tank :p
 
Pump probably wont flow much more than about 5 litres a minute though... So either it was disconnected for much longer than you thaught, or you didnt lose a 1/4 tank :p

About 5.75 litres per minute, for about 2.5 - 3 minutes I would think by the time I had rolled backwards off of the main road I was on and onto a side road.

Fuel tank is 62 litre.

Do the math.

:p
 
aye 2-3mins is more like it! Very lucky it didnt go up in smoke!

I never said it was for a short period of time, but it wasn't exactly a hour. Enough for me to slow, realise it was running on 3 and pull to the side of the road, then roll backwards down the hill and roll to a stop somewhere a bit safer to have a look, jump out and open the bonnet and then shut the engine down.

I've never moved so fast in my life after I opened the bonnet and saw what was happening!

A bit of a failing of this aftermarket style fuel rail is that they have no injector retaining clips to ensure that the injector and rail don't separate. Still, live and learn fortunately.

I needed to change my pants when I got home lol.
 
That's a pretty dangerous design really isn't it. Any way of getting something made to clamp the injectors in place?

Not really mate to be fair, not without welding some sort of bracket onto where each injector goes and that's more aggro than it's worth.

Will keep and eye in future - but the loctite should solve the issue.
 
Welly does yr manifold not have bosses on like the oem which allow for the rail to be clamped down?

If not id defo want some tacked on, it would be a simple job for the likes of Bill.

Im getting my RMR manifold made up now and im getting some bosses machined and welded on so the rail is noice nd toight.
 
results, converted wastegate to dual port to hold boost and keep wg closed
 

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Interesting news!

Seems to get going earlier with more torque thanks to more boost.

Greater area under the graph on all counts, so must feel much quicker, even if the figures are relatively unchanged.

Were you expecting more from it? Or is that about right? Must be an absolute animal either way!
 
I was close! Still good though, got some powerrrr that has!
 
Afternoon all. So then... today was dyno day.

For openers, this engine is not as powerful as it's predecessor. I'm not sure if this is down to everything still being a bit tight and new, an the fact I'm not running synthetic oil or whatever, but she will not make the same power levels from the same boost as previously.

That said however, whilst it won't make the equivalent peak power, it does produce more power more of the time which is a plus.

The day opens with the motor first run on the dyno. She made 380 BHP at 1.5 bar actuator pressure. Not bad.

Moving the boost up to around the same as previous dyno took us to around about the 420 mark. 25 BHP down on previous and I was a bit surprised.

Anyway, then came time to up the boosty... and the turbo just didn't want to play. Up 5 clicks on the MBC gave some more, another 5 clicks made little change. There was also some slightly abnormal boost characteristics.

Following this we let the car cool down and regrouped to have a think. Bill worked out from previous experience of about 45 PSI exhaust manifold pressure on the Lupo that my wastegate penny valve is seeing around 49 lbs of pressure, and is only being held shut by a 26 lb spring. Hench the wastegate is cracking and allowing turbine gas to bypass the turbine.

This explained both the boost oddities as well as the fact that it simply wouldn't make more than about 27 PSI peak.

Bill then has a stroke of genius frankly. The problem is the actuator spring not being strong enough to counteract the turbo flow. So why not use what the engine already has? Boost pressure. Create a twin port actuator to help the spring stay shut.

This didn't actually take much to be fair, as the Forge actuator I have already has a plugged port with a thread. It was a case of winding a stub in to allow a boost feed.

Here is the finished product:

71.jpg


First run with 10 clicks on the MBC and the Twin Port actuator working Bill had to back out of the first run as we saw 30 psi and climbing.

Wound the MBC right back down to 0 and ran it, she made 29 PSI peak and held a steady 27 PSI across the rev band.

Perfecto.

It also made 444.7 BHP and 344 Ftlbs. Timing pull was within tolerance as well. Fuelling in thee 12's.

So we left it like that.

No map tweaks today as my new Lambda hasn't arrived annoyingly, job for another day there then.

The end result is good, yet bad. Same peak BHP from more boost, but more of it everywhere.

Torque is up due to increased boost.

Good end result and after a few thousand and with some fully synthetic oil on board it will be interesting to see how that compares.

Fair play though, that old engine did a great job considering.

Hoping Bill will pop some comparison graphs up.

Thanks again for your help today Bill - and great work on the actuator! :thumbsup:
 
wg pressure.. vs manifold pressures

in every exhaust manifold/turbo hotside there will be pressure build up... not just on the inlet manifold etc but also in the exhaust manifold/turbo hotside.

consider how this pressure is acting upon the wastegate itself.. there is a psi in the manifold pushing against this visible wg penny.. Now think what spring pressure is holding that shut. the wg spring.

manifold pressure > wastegate spring pressure = wg being pushed open

higher pressure spring and preloads help keep this wg penny closed, against this manifold pressure.
OR... dual port wastegate and use the boost to also help hold the wg shut without having to rely on just a high psi actuator spring alone.

Now.... just adding a very stiff actuator alone should'nt be done without care of it also effecting the boost control of the ecu/n75 if not running an mbc

there will be something like a 2-2.5:1 pressure ratio of exhaust:inlet manifold pressures from what I have seen and measured when testing various "stuff" on the dyno
 
Whats it like to drive like now with the higher torque? is spool better now?

Overlay of the plots does show some improvement on pol, around 100 rpm sooner so not massive.

However I do think that the porting is responsible for the overall increase in power ober the whole rev band.

Again Andrew, thankyou for you time and effort with that. Top man :thumbsup:
 
yes, me now tony has his new toy/mantlepiece ornament

tum te tum.... those little voices... keep saying...

valves/springs would be high on the want to do list given what the reds capable of
 
OK, lets do it then. I'll start looking at valves and springs....

Took loads of persuading didn't I....?
 
OK, lets do it then. I'll start looking at valves and springs....

Took loads of persuading didn't I....?

lol - its addictive innit
says the man with some special cams coming... did I mention cams? lol

welly should start a paypal "gift" sponsorship thingy... help him with his severe modding habbit :p
 
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Nice work guys, must be a monster!!

Out of interest how is the dual port actuator plumbed in??
 
Numbers looks great but the BANG comes pretty late. What turbo You have?
Now get the valvetrain parts and cams, and then push 40hp more :superman:
 
Overlay of the plots does show some improvement on pol, around 100 rpm sooner so not massive.

However I do think that the porting is responsible for the overall increase in power ober the whole rev band.

Again Andrew, thankyou for you time and effort with that. Top man :thumbsup:

Not a problem, happy to help.
 
I think we need a real world comparison mr Welly boots ;)

Nice work chaps!
 
Numbers looks great but the BANG comes pretty late. What turbo You have?
Now get the valvetrain parts and cams, and then push 40hp more :superman:

Its an FP Green currently, looking to migrate to the larger version next though which will be the FP Red. A bolt on mod for the current setup. Literally bolt on.

The bang may come late, but my god does it ever come.
 

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