BRD 2.0 TDI DPF EGR Removal

tr7

Registered User
Ok so the time has come.

I already wanted to remove the EGR after having the pleasure of removing and cleaning the inlet manifold which was absolutely coked in crap.
And now the DPF has raised its head. Light came on but drove fine, then next time drove about a week later car in limp mode

I do super short journeys now with WFH and am not changing my car.

So I want to do two at once, EGR & DPF but don't see places offering both.

I've got time to organise, and I don't need it done right away. Looking to layout what exactly needs done and how best to have it done/do it myself


Whats the advice from other TDI owners that have done so?

2008 2.0 TDI BRD

Photo 2022 07 26 162914

Photo 2022 07 26 162916
 

NM07

Active Member
Gold Supporter
This is the way I went with mine, and couldn't be happier with the results.

Darkside EGR delete kit:
This kit allows you to remove the entire EGR system, including the cooler. It frees up so much space (as you can see below), and makes the exhaust side of the engine bay much more open and easier to work on. You can also remove all the associated EGR vacuum hoses to tidy things up even further, as I did. It's up to you whether you bridge the EGR cooler coolant pipes, or do away with one of the pipes altogether (this is what I did, the pipework doesn't need to be anywhere near as long once cooler is gone).

IMG 4894

IMG 4895


Darkside BKD intake manifold conversion kit (deletes the swirl flaps)
The swirl flaps are a known annoyance on the intake manifolds for these engines, so much better off deleting the system altogether, also improves airflow. Much like the EGR delete, you are then able to remove the vacuum supply for the flaps too, further tidying the engine bay.

ECU software
Final step is to remove the EGR (and in your case DPF) systems from the ECU software. This can be done with, or without modifications to the fuelling tables, depending on whether you are after more power/torque, or simply want the ECU to be happy with its new (and reduced!) hardware setup. I personally just had the EGR disabled, and left the power/torque stock. Depending on your technical ability, you can buy ECU flashers that will read/write the EEPROM of your ECU, so all you'd need to do would be to read your ECU, send it to a tuner and have them remove the EGR and DPF sections, then they will send it back and you'd flash it back to your car. This tends to save some money, as you no longer need to bring your car to their premises.

Observations and afterthoughts
After doing the above on my car, the difference it made to the engine was massive. Significantly smoother idling, cleaner power delivery, zero smoke, more responsive, and a good improvement in fuel economy as well. The engine does take a little longer to warm up in the absence of the EGR cooler (which is essentially an exhaust/coolant heat exchanger), but nothing significant at all. The engine oil also now actually stays clean, rather than turning black with carbon almost immediately after an oil change (as it did pre-delete).

Hope that helps!
 
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NM07

Active Member
Gold Supporter
Haha I'd pull the trigger if I were you, great quality kit, and the guys at Darkside know these engines inside out. Well worth checking out their YouTube channel too, lots of good stuff on there.
 

NM07

Active Member
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I've just seen they will also sort your ECU too, just post it to them:


Only thing to note is they won't tune it via the postal service if you're looking for more power/torque, they need it in the workshop for that.
 

tr7

Registered User
Yeh don't think I'm up for posting ECUs. Seems insanely high risk.

I've a KESS so one option is I just need the file modified. I have looked at the map before on WINOLS but never went further.
The other option is price dependent might just get it remapped and coded out at the same time. Something I'll have to investigate locally
 

tr7

Registered User
Has anyone removed a DPF themselves? Seems like the driveshaft has to come out to get it removed from underneath?
 

NM07

Active Member
Gold Supporter
Yeh don't think I'm up for posting ECUs. Seems insanely high risk.

I've a KESS so one option is I just need the file modified. I have looked at the map before on WINOLS but never went further.
The other option is price dependent might just get it remapped and coded out at the same time. Something I'll have to investigate locally
Can't say I blame you there! They probably offer the postage option more for people who don't want to worry about the technical side of things like reading and flashing. The only time I posted an ECU is when I bricked the ECU of my last car when flashing a map over to it with a Galetto 1260. Was in a hurry and thought I could get away with doing it without a battery charger hooked up (like I'd always done in the dozens of times I'd done it successfully before...). Battery voltage dipped too low and the write failed to the EEPROM, and there was no saving it. I knew it was bad when I turned the ignition on, and the check engine light wouldn't illuminate. Car would crank but wouldn't start, ECU needed reflashing properly on the bench by a pro as I couldn't get it back into write mode.
 

NM07

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Gold Supporter
Has anyone removed a DPF themselves? Seems like the driveshaft has to come out to get it removed from underneath?
Yep from what I've seen, its drivers side driveshaft off, possibly have to move the exhaust a bit, and it drops out from underneath.
 

tr7

Registered User
Yeh it's no joke. I flashed a car once and the fans just kicked on a stayed on a 100% until it was mapped back. So I am tempted to just go ahead with a remap and get the DPF and EGR mapped out at the same time
 

tr7

Registered User
Yep from what I've seen, its drivers side driveshaft off, possibly have to move the exhaust a bit, and it drops out from underneath.
Yep, I think that's the way it looks. And unlikely something I'm going to do without a ramp.

Would like to see the best way possible thought, as want to be sure it's done as tidy and OEM looking as possible.

(Also considering buying another DPF to modify/cut open and keep my own just in case)
 

NM07

Active Member
Gold Supporter
Yep, I think that's the way it looks. And unlikely something I'm going to do without a ramp.

Would like to see the best way possible thought, as want to be sure it's done as tidy and OEM looking as possible.

(Also considering buying another DPF to modify/cut open and keep my own just in case)
I'm wondering if the best route here for you (if possible, would need to check parts diagrams) would be to install the 140 setup between the block and the exhaust mid section? I've heard these turbos are not a fan of a DPF delete pipe as they like some back pressure, so rather than either fitting a gutted DPF, or the delete pipe, if you were to install a 140 setup with just the Cat, it would provide you the back pressure, look factory (and very similar to a DPF at a glance!), and still be genuine Audi parts. That assumes it has the same mounting setup to the turbo as the 170 however.

Just a thought.
 

NM07

Active Member
Gold Supporter
I'd definitely recommend not doing what this chap has done with the coolant pipes though. Not only has he just looped it, leaving in loads of unnecessary pipework that looks ugly and basically sits up against the hot side of the turbo, but he's put a 90 degree joiner in which will reduce flow significantly :wtf:

Screenshot 2022 07 26 at 210004


If you do it properly, you'd never even know a pipe went there in the first place, like mine

img_4895-jpeg.257167
 

Fully

Registered User
West Yorkshire Tuning will remap, gut DPF and egr eliminate for a price.
Obviously depends where you're located.
Think DPF gutting was £300 when i asked him.
 

tr7

Registered User
West Yorkshire Tuning will remap, gut DPF and egr eliminate for a price.
Obviously depends where you're located.
Think DPF gutting was £300 when i asked him.
Thanks buddy but I'm across the water. Would be tempted to drop it down to Darkside if I was in England
 

tr7

Registered User
I'm wondering if the best route here for you (if possible, would need to check parts diagrams) would be to install the 140 setup between the block and the exhaust mid section? I've heard these turbos are not a fan of a DPF delete pipe as they like some back pressure, so rather than either fitting a gutted DPF, or the delete pipe, if you were to install a 140 setup with just the Cat, it would provide you the back pressure, look factory (and very similar to a DPF at a glance!), and still be genuine Audi parts. That assumes it has the same mounting setup to the turbo as the 170 however.

Just a thought.

That sounds right up my alley. Are the turbo flanges/bolt patterns the same? Tempted if so.

This did occur to me, having had a 140 myself before (and wondering why I "upgraded" to a 170...)
But definitely need to be certain this is a path. I just assumed the turbos would be different so a DPF-less 140 part wouldn't match up

I'd definitely recommend not doing what this chap has done with the coolant pipes though. Not only has he just looped it, leaving in loads of unnecessary pipework that looks ugly and basically sits up against the hot side of the turbo, but he's put a 90 degree joiner in which will reduce flow significantly :wtf:

View attachment 257173

If you do it properly, you'd never even know a pipe went there in the first place, like mine

img_4895-jpeg.257167

Without doubt, this is why I want to plan it.

I won't accept that. Would rather have it working and stock before that.

I am concerned about the exposed blanking plate though there.
For my personal taste, it's very acceptable. For sure.

But not sure it'll get through an MOT here. As quite obvious for some who's looking. (And then the fear is the hassle to return it back to "standard" to get it to pass, would be an utter ****fest).

Good info. Still some thought needed
 

tr7

Registered User
Ok, does any one know if all the B7 DPF's are the same?

Looking at few videos of DPF removal and I really don't think they even need cut open.

I think if you take your time you could beat/crush all the material from either end and remove it all without any cutting or welding at all.

(Which would be perfect from a Visual Inspection standpoint)


This one "looks" like mine. The price of them varies of them massively online. But I would seriously consider buying a new (cheap) one to give to mechanic to simply swap. (So I would retain my factory part if needed).
S l1600 29

S l1600 30


S l1600 31
 
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tr7

Registered User



This video is a good example

a) how it's usually done
b) those welds would give me nightmares
c) it can be broken up into small enough chunks I think it could all be removed without any cutting
 

samyam

Registered User
Has anyone removed a DPF themselves? Seems like the driveshaft has to come out to get it removed from underneath?

I did mine on the drive no driveshaft removed. Was abit of a pig but it can be done. I also smashed the insides on mine out with cutting it open.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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tr7

Registered User
Thanks Sam, great info and also thank you very much for the pm with

I've got time so I may stick it up on stands here at home and have a look myself.

I really want it done without cutting or welding the DPF and I can do that taking my time, while a mechanic will be less inclined to do so
 

tr7

Registered User
Also decided to have a look at the map and do some research on coding it out myself with WINOLS

Few images if some of you are interested

Photo 2022 08 02 001228



Photo 2022 08 02 001208 Photo 2022 08 02 001210 Photo 2022 08 02 001212

Photo 2022 08 02 001215 Photo 2022 08 02 001219 Photo 2022 08 02 001226

There are dozens of these on each car, many very similar. But these are the larger maps worth showing. (Some are only 3x3 or 5x5)

It's interesting but don't think I'm going to pull the trigger and modify it myself yet without more info or guidance.

If it was a less important car to me I would definitely do it. But doing it from self research on something that would be painful to correct isn't worth the risk to me.

But I have been searching online for another cheap car just to test on, ha. Maybe after doing a few trial changes to another car I would, but not my own right away.

Which is a shame, as it's all there to do it. But too much uncertainty and risk at this point. nothing is labelled and you have to recognise what each of these maps are, and not brick your ECU doing many trail and error changes which would be highly likely.

Anyway, thought I'd post as I found it super fascinating
 

B7Tourer

Active Member
Interesting thread fellas. Forgive my ignorance, but what is the difference between blanking off the EGR and removing it entirely. I mean difference in the sense of do they both achieve the same end result? If so from an MOT pov wouldn't the former be the better route?
 

NM07

Active Member
Gold Supporter
Interesting thread fellas. Forgive my ignorance, but what is the difference between blanking off the EGR and removing it entirely. I mean difference in the sense of do they both achieve the same end result? If so from an MOT pov wouldn't the former be the better route?
The engine cover hides the entire EGR system when in place, so if you've deleted it, just make sure it's fitted for the MoT and you will be fine as they are not allowed to remove the cover to inspect :)

The benefit to doing a full delete, over just a blank, is being able to simplify the vacuum system, as well as benefit from the additional space freed up in the engine bay. But yes, either way you will see identical improvements from an engine health point of view, and definitely reduced smoke levels (especially when transitioning from partial to full throttle) as the air in the intake manifold will be much more oxygen rich (fresh air vs exhaust gas).
 

tr7

Registered User
"Blanking Off" is simply replacing the Gaskets with Solid plates. And Leaving the EGR system in place as it was otherwise.

Removing EGR is using Solid "Blanking" Plates and removing the System from the car. (EGR Cooler and Valve)



Blanking Off with leave the engine bay visually identical.

Removal will be very obvious the car has been modified

Same result otherwise
 

NM07

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@tr7 How are things going with the DPF/EGR delete project?
 

tr7

Registered User
Hey bud, no change. Waiting on availability of mechanic who while I spoke to me he himself suggested that he could do it without cuts or welds. So think I want to wait to use him as sounds like careful fella and will do it well. It's not actually that complicated, it's just not easy to access/remove the exhaust/dpf itself

Will definitely post an update as and when it comes. But hopefully, visually there will be nothing to show. As it will be complete seamless and really a stealth job
 

tr7

Registered User
Btw, if anyone reading this has experience with WINOLS and or tuning and would like help with some guidance I think it would be a very cool process to (somewhat) document on the forum

Tuning is definitely going to be done at some point, but simply modifying the DPF map would be interesting and educational I think
 

NM07

Active Member
Gold Supporter
Hey bud, no change. Waiting on availability of mechanic who while I spoke to me he himself suggested that he could do it without cuts or welds. So think I want to wait to use him as sounds like careful fella and will do it well. It's not actually that complicated, it's just not easy to access/remove the exhaust/dpf itself

Will definitely post an update as and when it comes. But hopefully, visually there will be nothing to show. As it will be complete seamless and really a stealth job
I think the only reason most people cut them open is because it's quicker to get the guts out that way, but without doubt taking the time to do it properly without cutting it open is the way to go. Much cleaner job and almost impossible to detect. Sounds like you've found the right chap for the job. :icon thumright:
 
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NM07

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Gold Supporter
Btw, if anyone reading this has experience with WINOLS and or tuning and would like help with some guidance I think it would be a very cool process to (somewhat) document on the forum

Tuning is definitely going to be done at some point, but simply modifying the DPF map would be interesting and educational I think
I would be very interested to learn more about this. I've only looked at maps before, never had the courage to modify and reflash my own home-brew map back to the ECU though :sweatsmile: Always left that bit to the pro's.
 
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NM07

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My last car had a Bosch EDC15 ECU, which is a bit older than the ones in our car I think, but it supported some cool features like launch control natively. You could set the 0mph first gear rev limit to whatever you wanted, so if you wanted to launch it quickly you could just put it in first gear, pin the throttle and release the clutch without trying to get the RPMs right to build boost.
 

NM07

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Yep, a quick Google suggests there is a couple ways to do it on the EDC16

 

faby01

New Member
Hi, i have a 2.0 tdi brd aswell, the dpf can be removed from above, but i was struggling to get it off without cutting the bolt on the manifold
(this one)
Download


Also, i removed the EGR, the EGR COOLER, and the EGR pipe behind the engine (which is a pain in the ***)
I simplified the vacuum lines ( now vacuum it's coming from the pump, one way valve, T to cam cover, to n75 and then to turbo. ) that's all the vacuum.
I removed all the solenoids that works with the egr egr cooler intake flaps, and i made a little braket to hold the n75.
If you want to remove the manifold flaps, you can simply disconnect the vacuum line, and the actuator will keep them open everytime, and you don't need to worry about breaking the caps, they are made from metal in the BRD manifold.

I also disable all the errors from the sensors removed, so no CEL or anything.

If somebody want help with turning off errors, from dpf egr or other sensors, i can help make another post. Im using a cheap MPPS V16 also.
 
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tr7

Registered User
Hi, i have a 2.0 tdi brd aswell, the dpf can be removed from above, but i was struggling to get it off without cutting the bolt on the manifold
(this one) View attachment 257898

Also, i removed the EGR, the EGR COOLER, and the EGR pipe behind the engine (which is a pain in the ***)
I simplified the vacuum lines ( now vacuum it's coming from the pump, one way valve, T to cam cover, to n75 and then to turbo. ) that's all the vacuum.
I removed all the solenoids that works with the egr egr cooler intake flaps, and i made a little braket to hold the n75.
If you want to remove the manifold flaps, you can simply disconnect the vacuum line, and the actuator will keep them open everytime, and you don't need to worry about breaking the caps, they are made from metal in the BRD manifold.

I also disable all the errors from the sensors removed, so no CEL or anything.

If somebody want help with turning off errors, from dpf egr or other sensors, i can help make another post. Im using a cheap MPPS V16 also.
Hi faby,

That would be super useful. I'm using a cheap KESS to read and write the ECU. What did you use to modify the Map file?
Very interested to hear your experience with that
 
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faby01

New Member
Hi, first of all, the pd170 has a siemens ecu, which you will need this program http://jazdw.net/ppd-maps called PPD maps.
It looks like this:
1660767453531

then you will need a BDM file from your ecu (a BDM file means the entire ECU file, not only the partial map which you can get by reading from OBD port) you can find one on the internet, with the same code as your ecu have (mine it's a 03G906018AQ).
You need to go to file-open bdm file-put your bdm file.
Now you should get a bunch of maps in the left side, if it doest show anything, the map it's not a bdm file (probably).
1660767808327

Now you go to file-export to xdf, and you will have a "XDF FILE" (i think they are called DAMOS)
For the tuning part, im using TunerPro, which it's free, it works with WinOLS too i think, but that's what im using.

When you open TunerPro, you need to go to XDF-SELECT XDF-SELECT THE XDF YOU CREATED.
Now you need to have your ODB readed map from the car, which you can get with MPPS, KESS ETC.
Go to file-open bin-select your ecu file.
Now it should look like this
1660768080757


From this, you can disable the DTC, Modify the maps, etc.
The things you are looking for, are the SWITCHES.
If you using DTCs to disable errors, it will only make the errors disapear, but the problem will be still there, i mean if the car is in limp mode throwing a code, if you disable the DTC you will not see the code, but the car will still be in limp mode.
If you using SWITCHES, they turn off the entire error.

For example if you want to disable de DPF
P2002 it's the error code for the DPF.
Use the parameter search tool
1660768353639

type your code, in our case it's a p2002
hit search and it will show those things.
For disabling the DPF, you need to modify all the SW 1 for 2002 code. In our case, there are 3.
1660768456201

here will be 1, modify to 0, hit enter, and then save.
Now save the file, go to the car and write the file, the p2002 will not show up, the car will not go in limp mode and you will not have a CEL.

I hope you understand everything, also sorry for my bad english.
 

tr7

Registered User
This is a great post. If I was to follow this I would have to buy a MPPS V16. They are cheap enough I may do

What version of Windows are you running?

They seem cheap so I could be tempted to order one
 

tr7

Registered User
@faby01 again, great post. I just got a chance to look into late last night

Where did you source the BDM file for our BRD engine ECUs? I found one last night online and while it appears to be correct, I'm not certain.

I'm not confident I can trust it to use it and to edit and then ultimately map with


On this BDM I sourced online, I was able to find the Three SW 1 for P2002. But the value set was not '1' the values were 32, 61 and 101

Does this look correct, or should I not trust this BDM file?

Photo 2022 08 18 141047
 

faby01

New Member
hi, this is the XDF file i am using, also you don't need a mpps, you could write with KESS aswell. Also i am running window 7 32 bit on my laptop.
 

tr7

Registered User
hi, this is the XDF file i am using, also you don't need a mpps, you could write with KESS aswell. Also i am running window 7 32 bit on my laptop.
Thank you faby

I know you're saying I could write with the KESS. But I have never done it yet, and there are something I either

a) don't understand
b) don't make sense in the Read of the ECU I've done

So not certain I can trust it.

MPPS is cheap, and following the exact path you have with the exact same tools and method gives me more confidence

Here is the ECU Read I downloaded off the KESS
Does this look ok to you?

When I'm looking at it in WINOLS and now in TunerPro there are some maps that make absolutely no sense. Almost like it's potentially corrupted.
Let me know your thoughts.

If it looks normal to your BRD ECU read then I will maybe use the KESS I have. But for now I'm not certain
Would appreciate your view
 

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