Brake Pad advice

Gazwould

Registered User
ECP bought the OE division and cheaped out .

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Neil C

Registered User
Dust is a fact of life from any form of abrasive action. If it wasn't pads wouldn't wear down, and would never need replacing. They also would not work very well.
 

T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Dust is a fact of life from any form of abrasive action. If it wasn't pads wouldn't wear down, and would never need replacing. They also would not work very well.

Exactly !

All I hear is “Redstuff produce little dust”
Goes hand in hand with the fact they don’t stop cars very well.

Good disc polishers though should you need a shave.


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45bvtc

The Older I Get The Better I Was
Supporter
Gold Supporter
As if to ADD another element: we ALL drive differently/brake differently!
Hmm Thinking Here Smiley


Some drive quickly "through" corners/approach traffic islands, etc., while others PANIC :scared2: brake 'anywhere and everywhere' that ain't straight on: FFSAKE!!! :sadlike:

What suits 'ones own' driving characteristics don't necessarily suit those of others

And there#s them that wants shopping-brakes and track-brakes all in one package: get real... :search:

Just an observation here and you ALL know what friction materials I'm braking with so nothing more to add - happy days :racer:

Take care, stay safe...
Smiley Is Driving  Smiley
 

Gazwould

Registered User
Exactly !

All I hear is “Redstuff produce little dust”
Goes hand in hand with the fact they don’t stop cars very well.

Good disc polishers though should you need a shave.


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If you apply that then that means Ferodo Eco Friction and DS Performance are no good...

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T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Probably just standard discs been bedded in with Redstuff


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Lol can you imagine Brembo calling up EBC


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Marshy

Settled in
Lol can you imagine Brembo calling up EBC


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Yeah we’re looking to design a polished brake disc, something so polished you could shave in it.

Reply
We’ve got just what you need, do 900 miles with our pads, job done


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Gazwould

Registered User
Minority reporting .

Majority has it !

Do a poll if you think you're right .

It's 2021 and you can have it all , near future legislation will see low dust brake pads as the norm .

So you agree low dust Ferodo Eco Friction and Ferodo DS Performance stop cars well ?
 
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T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Minority reporting .

Majority has it !

Do a poll if you think you're right .

It's 2021 and you can have it all , near future legislation will see low dust brake pads as the norm .

So you agree low dust Ferodo Eco Friction and Ferodo DS Performance stop cars well ?

DS performance and DS2500 create far more dust than the **** Redstuff pads you seem to love.

But yes they are far more effective than the EBC ****.

Minority or whatever you want to refer to, I like em and so do plenty of others.


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Neil C

Registered User
Ladies and Gentlemen . . .

Time for a deep breath, calm down and agree to differ.

Everyone has - and is entitled to - their own opinion/likes/dislikes, and this should be respected.

Please.
 

AlS3BE

Registered User
I think the low dust is just marketing stuff as there’s still dust but just not really black sooty dust.
With brakes something needs to give so you either wear pads and create pad dust normally black or wear discs and cause metallic particles/dust or combination of both wearing. Metallic particles will be invisible to the naked eye till it starts rusting or if you use a iron fallout remover. Would be keen to see what iron fallout remover looks like with red stuff pads as I noticed very little red when I used BH wheel cleaner on my wheels with oe pads/disc which says to me the oe pads are gentler on the discs and softer compound.
There’s no free dinners so something has to give otherwise disc pads will last forever.

Will be interesting to see next generation of pads/discs as on electric cars there’s little braking needed as the motor brakes the car so we should see a lot less dust and more durable brakes working really well from stone cold/wet also low noise. Should be a lot of new compounds and different grades of steel in discs as there’s less hot cold cycles like we have now. This should benefit normal combustion cars.
 

Kuljit Singh

Registered User
I changed my rear discs and pads a month or so ago. I used Mintex coated discs and Mintex pads. The pads a came with new calliper bolts and shims. I think I paid around £75 for them.
Im getting my rear pads and discs done next weekend. Can you please kindly advice me on a few things.

I will be using Carista to put the EPB in service mode. I have read the rear brake calipers require a M14 bit to remove a bolt in order to get the discs off, is that correct? Also are the old Caliper bolts a one time use and will definitely require changing during the job? I got my discs and pads from TPS but had no idea about the caliper bolts and shims, please advice? Thank you.
 

AlS3BE

Registered User
Im getting my rear pads and discs done next weekend. Can you please kindly advice me on a few things.

I will be using Carista to put the EPB in service mode. I have read the rear brake calipers require a M14 bit to remove a bolt in order to get the discs off, is that correct? Also are the old Caliper bolts a one time use and will definitely require changing during the job? I got my discs and pads from TPS but had no idea about the caliper bolts and shims, please advice? Thank you.

Not trying to be funny but if you are unsure how to change brakes you really shouldn’t be doing them. It’s the number 1 safety system.
Anyway You got the bolts that hold calipers these normally come with most kits I’ve used so I change them to new ones but it should be ok to reuse if you don’t get them.
The carriers normally have to come off, not sure about bolt size, for the disc to come out but folk on here have managed to wiggle out old discs and wiggle new ones back in without removing the carrier so just luck.
Shims is just like a thin metal foil on the back of pads to reduce squealing and noise, these should normally be stuck to the pads out the box some manufacturers don’t include them and sell them separately.
You will need copper grease or similar to put on the edges/contact points of pads guides etc don’t overdo the greasing as the **** gets everywhere.
You will need brake cleaner to clean the oil off the discs and generally clean everything up before you put it back together. Wire brush will help cleaning the carriers etc.
All bolts, screws etc will be a pain to remove as it’s in an area where it get hot and cold so lots of corrosion. Personally I would change the bolts as it’s easy to round off the head of a rusty one, just saving yourself the grief next time you do this.
Not sure about Carista but in vcds there’s a procedure to run for the calipers to recalibrate for new discs and pads. Again some folk get away without doing this.
 

Kuljit Singh

Registered User
Not trying to be funny but if you are unsure how to change brakes you really shouldn’t be doing them. It’s the number 1 safety system.
Anyway You got the bolts that hold calipers these normally come with most kits I’ve used so I change them to new ones but it should be ok to reuse if you don’t get them.
The carriers normally have to come off, not sure about bolt size, for the disc to come out but folk on here have managed to wiggle out old discs and wiggle new ones back in without removing the carrier so just luck.
Shims is just like a thin metal foil on the back of pads to reduce squealing and noise, these should normally be stuck to the pads out the box some manufacturers don’t include them and sell them separately.
You will need copper grease or similar to put on the edges/contact points of pads guides etc don’t overdo the greasing as the **** gets everywhere.
You will need brake cleaner to clean the oil off the discs and generally clean everything up before you put it back together. Wire brush will help cleaning the carriers etc.
All bolts, screws etc will be a pain to remove as it’s in an area where it get hot and cold so lots of corrosion. Personally I would change the bolts as it’s easy to round off the head of a rusty one, just saving yourself the grief next time you do this.
Not sure about Carista but in vcds there’s a procedure to run for the calipers to recalibrate for new discs and pads. Again some folk get away without doing this.
So the bolts that you recconmend to change are the ones that require the tripple square bit? The one in the attached photo?
 

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AlS3BE

Registered User
So the bolts that you recconmend to change are the ones that require the tripple square bit? The one in the attached photo?

Especially those ones. Pain in the rear if they round off.
Been a while since I’ve changed brakes but can’t see much has changed. Been changing cars more than brakes in recent years

Edit: coming to think of it those bolts should have a cover over them so shouldn’t be too bad for rust so could be reused.
 
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george forbes

Registered User
the bolts pictured are 14mm triple square that hold the brake carrier the others that are capped are allen key 7mm if I remember rightly. the triple squares are stretch bolts that are tightened to 120 Nm plus 90 degrees hence the pain to remove , according to Audi they should be replaced but plenty don't.
 

Kuljit Singh

Registered User
the bolts pictured are 14mm triple square that hold the brake carrier the others that are capped are allen key 7mm if I remember rightly. the triple squares are stretch bolts that are tightened to 120 Nm plus 90 degrees hence the pain to remove , according to Audi they should be replaced but plenty don't.
Thanks for the advice. Any idea where i can get these 14mm tripple spuaret bolts from? Just incase they get rounded off when removing.
 

T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
They are difficult to access but not impossible.

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Kuljit Singh

Registered User
Forum sponsor on here @creweaudi

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Thank you for the diagram. Just to confirm number 8 (in the red circle) on the diagram, is the part that I require in the attached photo? also in the remark section it shows M12 in the number. Is that referring to the spliner size bit required to remove the bolt? sorry just getting a little confused as everyone is suggesting that its a M14 size spliner bit is required to remove it.
 

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T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Thank you for the diagram. Just to confirm number 8 (in the red circle) on the diagram, is the part that I require in the attached photo? also in the remark section it shows M12 in the number. Is that referring to the spliner size bit required to remove the bolt? sorry just getting a little confused as everyone is suggesting that its a M14 size spliner bit is required to remove it.

M12 is the distance across the threads.

M14 I’d the spline bit size on the head.


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Kuljit Singh

Registered User
M12 is the distance across the threads.

M14 I’d the spline bit size on the head.


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One last question in order to change the rear brake discs, do you must need the Brake Piston wind back tool? Or is that only required if you dont have any vcds/obd tool to put the brakes in service mode?
 

T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
One last question in order to change the rear brake discs, do you must need the Brake Piston wind back tool? Or is that only required if you dont have any vcds/obd tool to put the brakes in service mode?

I use one yes to push the piston back.

You could use a G clamp and a block of wood also.


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Steve D

Registered User
Im getting my rear pads and discs done next weekend. Can you please kindly advice me on a few things.

I will be using Carista to put the EPB in service mode. I have read the rear brake calipers require a M14 bit to remove a bolt in order to get the discs off, is that correct? Also are the old Caliper bolts a one time use and will definitely require changing during the job? I got my discs and pads from TPS but had no idea about the caliper bolts and shims, please advice? Thank you.
You need a 14mm splined bit to remove the caliper carrier bolts. They are awkward to get to - I removed my lower shock bolts to enable me to get a 1/2” ratchet on there with a deep socket over the handle and a couple of 6” extension bars. I managed to wiggle my discs out without loosening them but I couldn’t wiggle the new ones in. I reused my bolts. Brake pad shims came with the pads
 

Kuljit Singh

Registered User
You need a 14mm splined bit to remove the caliper carrier bolts. They are awkward to get to - I removed my lower shock bolts to enable me to get a 1/2” ratchet on there with a deep socket over the handle and a couple of 6” extension bars. I managed to wiggle my discs out without loosening them but I couldn’t wiggle the new ones in. I reused my bolts. Brake pad shims came with the pads
Thank you for the tips. I dont think i got the shims with my pads, even though supplied by TPS. Can you use the old shims? Thanks.
 

T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Thank you for the tips. I dont think i got the shims with my pads, even though supplied by TPS. Can you use the old shims? Thanks.

Steve is correct here. I can get the 310 x 22 rear disc out without removing the rear caliper carrier.


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george forbes

Registered User
Steve is correct here. I can get the 310 x 22 rear disc out without removing the rear caliper carrier.


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just got round to replacing mine as I had heard so much conflicting information about whether the rear carriers had to come off or not and was dreading it . but as mentioned the old disc slips out and the new one went in just as easy, probably took me an hour total both sides on my drive
 

T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
just got round to replacing mine as I had heard so much conflicting information about whether the rear carriers had to come off or not and was dreading it . but as mentioned the old disc slips out and the new one went in just as easy, probably took me an hour total both sides on my drive

Unless your going bigger

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george forbes

Registered User
Surely you would have to change the dust guards as they overlap the edge of the disc and yours look standard

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T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Surely you would have to change the dust guards as they overlap the edge of the disc and yours look standard

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No they don’t interfere.

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