brake judder!!

Ryanc

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Still getting some major judder under heavy braking,thinking a sticking caliper or something,just can't figure out the problem.
 
sticking caliper shouldnt give judder... Have you checked out your control arm bushes?
 
Thinking it might be the pads.Going to do a trackday see if that kills/cures it!
 
Ryan, I've had both forms of brake judder, one being warped disks, the other being knackered front track arms. With warped disks, you can feel the judder through the brake pedal and the steering column. With the track arms, it's through the steering wheel, it wobbles left and right as you are braking, and it's worse the faster you are going.

HTH bud

Joe
 
Are the 'front track arms' the same thing as 'tie rods'....only i seem to have slight brake judder, only through the steering wheel, but i have had the tie rods changed on both sides in the last 2 years.

Also get a bit of play in the steering and not sure if this could be related?
 
umm ,wasn't doing it before the new discs/pads so i don't think it's track arms. All discs are new.Also it seems to do it inconsistently?
 
[ QUOTE ]
Are the 'front track arms' the same thing as 'tie rods'....only i seem to have slight brake judder, only through the steering wheel, but i have had the tie rods changed on both sides in the last 2 years.

Also get a bit of play in the steering and not sure if this could be related?

[/ QUOTE ]

Track arms are the actual lower wishbones, it's the actual bushes that was gone, and my front wheels had 1cm play forward and backwards causing the vibrations through the steering. I say track arms, because I had the complete arms replaced both sides, but it's possible to just change the bushes for uprated items.
Sorry for the confusion.
 
Cheers for clarifying that.
I've had the inner bushes replaced on the loer wishbones already so it wont be that.
 
this is what i recently did on mine.

bit of routine maintenance.

(they were replaced september, so not exactly old)

drilled out all vent holes, with drill and 4.0mm bit.

if you hit something hard STOP drilling and move else where. Sometimes Porsche will fit a weight inside the venting area in the middle to balance the rotor. nothing to worry about, just carry on drilling another hole.Some discs have them some dont.

Its like a very thick spring/coil, not disimilar than a big version of what would hold the two halves of a clothes peg together. It would appear they compress the thing, insert it , and they lock into place under tension.

My first set of rotors , (now removed) had one in. This set doesnt have any.

take calipers off (should be able to leave the pads in the calipers i did0 you can inspect them in place, just speeds things up abit.

tie caliper up out way, not to stress brake pipe

remove discs, flush out all the loose crap from drilling.

clean hub and hat face, with wire brush,

better still i did mine with a wire brush on a drill.

nip up the hat to rotor bolts (make sure they are stone cold)

I did mine with a 1/4 drive socket set and little T bar, as tight as they go. I got about 1/4 of a turn on each bolt.

(they had been on the car about 5K miles, heating up, cooling down etc)

also roughed up (deglazed if you will) the rotor surfaces with a real corse emery cloth, just a good rub all over.

refit.

only really did this to mine as car was off the road for rear caliper painting, seemed ideal time to clean them up, as i waited for paint to dry..
 
Just had the same on mine and the (O) light came up. Thought it was brake fluid but once i removed the front wheels the discs had actually CRACKED! in 3 different places. So i obviously replaced them with new red stuff pads and suprise suprise it's a lot better LOL.
Need some stainless hoses next and i''l do the bushes too.
 
So control arm/track arm bushes are the same thing? Do polybush do a replacement?
 

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