Bose system sounds low

Dave@remaps

Member
VCDS Map User
There where no other wires on the plug just the brown one. I have iPod connect in glove box and that works. Have to check on the way home
Just poke the little tab out on the pin with a paper clip so you can completely disconnect it just incase it interupts something else in the nav or spikes the amp or stereo as it is a cdc out pin so may have power through it.
glad everything is working i took the bose wire out of mine earlier defo more basey but might see if i can alter in vagcom rather than leave it out
 

adam_may

Registered User
Let me know if you manage to sort it through vagcom will save me trying to get my unit out! :)
 

D3mon

Registered User
I'm considering dusting down and refitting my now 18yrs old Alpine 7939 in place of the concert. I wonder if I can get a loom/adaptor to allow for that!
Of course, it'll need a single din conversion too... Hmmm, tricky.
 

Dave@remaps

Member
VCDS Map User
I'm considering dusting down and refitting my now 18yrs old Alpine 7939 in place of the concert. I wonder if I can get a loom/adaptor to allow for that!
Of course, it'll need a single din conversion too... Hmmm, tricky.
Have you nit thought about putting rns-e in it? Id of thought you can still get looms/adapter for alpine
 

D3mon

Registered User
Nah, I'm not into the RNS-E to be fair, it seems overpriced for any benefit it would bring (over the concert). I wouldn't use the sat nav at all for a start as I use Waze on the phone which I think is far superior.

I'd need a loom/adapter that gave me the ability to connect the wires that come out of the Alpine into the factory wiring of the car somehow. Of course, it may be one of those things that ultimately leads me to stripping all the factory stuff out and starting again. I'm not sure I'm keen on all that fuss these days - 18yrs ago was a very different story.
 

Dave@remaps

Member
VCDS Map User
Nah, I'm not into the RNS-E to be fair, it seems overpriced for any benefit it would bring (over the concert). I wouldn't use the sat nav at all for a start as I use Waze on the phone which I think is far superior.

I'd need a loom/adapter that gave me the ability to connect the wires that come out of the Alpine into the factory wiring of the car somehow. Of course, it may be one of those things that ultimately leads me to stripping all the factory stuff out and starting again. I'm not sure I'm keen on all that fuss these days - 18yrs ago was a very different story.
I dont really use the sat nav but for all the media its good.
have you got the mini iso that comes out back of alpine in to the 2 block connectors?
If you do you can get a harnese to take it from that to quad lock and should have pre out attached so you dont lose bose/ audi amp
 

Dave@remaps

Member
VCDS Map User
I dont really use the sat nav but for all the media its good.
have you got the mini iso that comes out back of alpine in to the 2 block connectors?
If you do you can get a harnese to take it from that to quad lock and should have pre out attached so you dont lose bose/ audi amp
Something like this for full bose system
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_2014-10-02-19-04-00.png
    Screenshot_2014-10-02-19-04-00.png
    356.6 KB · Views: 120

D3mon

Registered User
I've the fetch all my old audio stuff, so it'll be a while till I can take a look at the back of the Alpine and get a better idea.
 

D3mon

Registered User
The 7939 has a 4v pre-out too (with no high level outputs). I wonder if the standard BOSE amp will handle a 4V pre-out?
 

Dave@remaps

Member
VCDS Map User
Should do i only ever had low level outputs on my aftermarket stereos and worked fine in my previous audis
 

D3mon

Registered User
Is BOSE what they call a 'fully active system'? All speakers are fed from separate amps and not the concert itself?
 

Dave@remaps

Member
VCDS Map User
What car and year is yours if its bose off the top of my head it has 2 amps one for sub and rears and one for front and tweats. Correct None are fed from head unit if fully active/amplified system. Only other thing to consider if you do move away from concert to anything aftermarket you will have to put a ignition feed in as there permenantly fed on audis
 

D3mon

Registered User
2009 A3 Black Edition. Concert with BOSE from factory. AUX-in from the centre console but no other fancy toys to lose in the changeover like Bluetooth or USB. Would miss the steering wheel volume controls though. Could be fun. :)
 

Dave@remaps

Member
VCDS Map User
Yeah im pretty sure will be full active system so will use front and rear/sub pre out on stereo i dont know about keeping aux though its probbably possible :icon thumright:
 

D3mon

Registered User
Ai-Net apparently allows for it, but on such a dated setup, it could be tough making it work. I don't use it often though to be fair.
 

D3mon

Registered User
If you can live without the aux and are thinking of changing its certainly possible to do so
Awesome. We've kind of hijacked this thread a bit, so I'll start something new if I decide to play with it some more. :icon thumright:
 

D3mon

Registered User
Awesome. Much appreciated. :)
 

D3mon

Registered User
Just looking to pull the BOSE pin for now. Got release keys for radio and pulled it out of the dash. Pinout map on the top:
IMG_0056.JPG
Looks like I had the dual (FAKRA?) antenna connector:
IMG_0058.JPG
Connectors on the back:
IMG_0057.JPG
By all accounts, the blue connector is the one of interest, with the brown wire being the BOSE signal wire and the other three being the wiring for the AUX audio connector in the console.
So far, pulling the whole blue connector, while the radio is on, doesn't seem to do anything at all to the sound quality.
Looking closely at the blue connector, it has a black connector within it and the blue 'outer' can be slid off:
IMG_0060.JPG
The pin can partly be removed by pushing the small silver lock tab. However, it only slides up so far then locks again. That's as far as I've got.

Anyone got any tricks to pull that wire entirely (in a reversible, non-damaging way)? Reasonable force didn't do it.
 

Dan-Jnr

Registered User
You need to push the little tab on the pin in again to get past the second hole.
 

D3mon

Registered User
Ah OK, thanks. I'd given that a try but didn't have much luck. I may need a smaller poker. :)

Any idea whether I'd need to code out the BOSE in VCDS to see the difference?
 

D3mon

Registered User
I think I'll just pull the whole blue plug (which will also disable the AUX that I rarely use) for a few days, see what happens. I'm thinking now that, for my car at least, there's coding change to be made too. From 9: "Sound System" (aka BOSE) to 5: Audi A3 8P
 

Dave@remaps

Member
VCDS Map User
The only thing with doing this makes the volume very tempermental iv tried it and put it back volume control when low is pretty non existant
 

Ash187

Registered User
VCDS Map User
Gold Supporter
The bose coding and the bose pin is used in the car to automatically control the sound level against the noise in the car, this is why there is a bose mic near the dome light in the roof panel. by not coding it correctly or taking out the pin just stops the bose amp from doing its job and in turn just puts the system into 'loud' mode. not ideal honestly as it changes the way that the speakers are designed to work.
I had this conversation with another member on here a while back and he said he didn't want it coded... a couple months later he noticed how the sound gets distorted if you turn it up so he coded the bose back in and found that the sound is actually more refined and crisp.
 

Dan-Jnr

Registered User
Agree with you @Ash187 I am always a believer of having hardware connected and setup as it should, it was designed and manufactured to be used that way.
 
Top