Boost problems......170 BRD

carlcall

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Basically the car is flat until roughly 3000rpm and a ton of soot behind me.....then she takes off like a banshee.

I've tried the original map and exactly the same.

I've physically driven the car with the MAF disconnected and it's exactly the same but I didn't push it to spool up with boost....it was dirty though before I cleaned it.

I've checked all the boost pipes and any that will hold pressure for splits or signs of leakage and nothing.

Both intercoolers are absolutely spotless apart from a fine film of oil which is what I would expect.

With the both boost hoses off the turbo I can feel the slightest of play in the shaft and I do mean the slightest.....the turbines turn easy enough with my finger but not what I remember from a Garrett Turbo on a petrol car.....it's slightly tighter but turns easy enough.

I took a short video of it when it was cold and it looks like the turbines are having trouble rotating and you can see it speeding up slowly but it's notchy.

Once it was spinning freely you could hear it spinning with the slightest spooling up noise and with the slightest of touches on the accelerator it was spooling up as it should be. I've also checked the actuator with a vacuum pump and that both holds pressure with no leak and moves freely.

The N75 valve at the front of the block seems to be working as if I turn the engine off and remove the top pipe it's holding pressure, but if it's not connected and I start the engine it hardly spools up. Once connected again it's fine.

If I have the time I'm going to try and remove all the solenoids under the turbo and see if they are faulty and working correctly.

I have a feeling it maybe the turbo is on it's way out.....but I'm hoping someone on here can verify that the VNT's are quite tight compared to the petrol variants.

I too think my car is sulking as Rob said due to the BBK going on......but on a side note you only have to tap the brake pedal and you go through the screen.

I'll also try and get the videos edited and upload them later if I have time as we are out at an anniversary later.
 
Have you had the oil pump drive done on the engine. The BRD engine suffers with issues and the first thing to go is usually the turbo. The turbo should spin pretty freely .
 
that sudden stopping when the engine is switched off isn't right carl , from my understanding it should carry on spinning for a period afterwards to cool down , the way it just stops seems to suggest a bearing , but only a thought carl as i'm not a turbo engineer...
 
found this carl.

One question we get asked a lot is how to do a visual inspection of the turbocharger itself. First off, you will need to gain access to the turbochargers compressor inlet. Once you can see the compressor wheel through the inlet opening, observe the area for an excessive amount of oil present in the inlet, or on the compressor wheel itself. The wheel should be a natural aluminum color, with no signs of impact damage or contact with the compressor housing. If it is possible to spin the turbocharger with your fingers, note any resistance or noises. The turbocharger should spin freely, with no rubbing, scraping or other unusual sounds. The turbocharger will have small amounts of radial (side to side) movement in the bearings, but it should never be able to make contact with the compressor housing inlet. Your turbo should have no noticeable axial (in and out) motion that you can feel. If any of these diagnosis fail to pass inspection, the turbocharger needs to be serviced immediately.
 
That's what I thought Desertstorm and Rob is that it should spin freely. I'm going back quite a few years since last having to mess about with a turbo and the last one I had out i only took it out as I replaced it with a ball bearing turbo and they spin for an eternity when switched off.

I'm not 100% sure if it's been done the oil pump but I do have the previous owners name and address and it's only 2 miles away from where I live......looks like I'll contacting him to check up, but for an engine that's done 110k looks brand new. Where there are bolt holes with machined faces they are still shiney.

Also luckily there is a reputable turbo place not that far from me......if it's needed which I think it is.


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Journal bearing turbos like the BV43 fitted in your car need oil pressure to make a bearing surface so with hot pressurised oil they spin more freely but never as freely as a ball bearing turbo.