Big Turbo Build Coming Up

Brodster

Registered User
Joined
Mar 17, 2011
Messages
3,543
Reaction score
881
Points
113
Location
Lanark, Scotland
Website
www.brotek.co.uk
Hi all. Need to pick the 8L gurus brains for 5 mins especially those that have done a BT build. Now I have done a little research and its a minefiled so I would rather get the info from them in the know-how.

Now a good mate of mine is just about to start the initial rebuild on his 03 plate 8L S3 and as he is away in Kuwait I've been given the task of doing the shopping for some goodies. Now I have been speaking to Jardo as he is quite clued up on stuff to buy and where to get it but tonight it has all changed again so Im after good contacts to buy the goods below.

1. IE 20mm steel rods - rifle drilled including ARP 625 bolts
2. ARP head bolt set with installation tool
3. ARP crankshaft main bolts with installation tool

The turbo was going to be the LOBA LO320 upgrade but due to differences I think hes now looking at the Garrett set up due to it being more effective at gaining power as they come with a high flow cast manifold.

Anyone know the best place or person to get Nos 1-3. Any descent info or will gen greatly appreciated.

Cheers
 
lol @ jardo.

Bill@badger5 is a uk source for IE parts, or there is INA engineering.
ARP stuff it would be a case of some phoning round. Just to let you know that most if npt all forged rods come with ARP 2000 bolts, the 625 series stuff is some serrrrious hardware, for the most extreme builds (people stretching the 2000 at high rpm misshifts) so prob worth sticking with the big end bolts that come with rods.

I sourced my rods and bolts through pagparts.com, but expect about 25% on top of the US$ retail

As for arp mains, the cheapest source of theae are listed for a bmw (same arp part number, i cannot remember the bmw engine code, that aint my thang) , a search should reveal a part number and link that andrew@ald posted. And thats it all sorted. Cheapest and easiest sources :)
 
You have been getting advice from Jardo??? oh dear ;P

Bill @ Badger 5 is an IE dealer and normally has the rods in stock (ARP 2000 bolts... not sure why you want 625's).... he orders from IE quite regularly so can get the ARP mains and head bolts too...

<tuffty/>
 
Jardo, Big turbo? Ko3s then....
 
  • Like
Reactions: StaceyS3, s3dave, Gizmo20VT and 1 other person
Seems to be a bit of a shortage of the BMW mains currently. Mine were on back order from Summit, cancelled and ordered with IE, only to be told there's a wait :(

I went with ARP:
- Head Studs
- Main Studs
- Flywheel Bolts
- Crank Bolt
- Cam Pulley Bolt + Friction Disc

Also worth looking at the Crank Pulley Dowel Kit:
1.8T 20V Timing Belt Gear Dowel Pin Kit (06A BLOCK)
 
You guys do make me laugh :beerchug:

If only you knew :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Brodster
Cheers for the info guys. All the spec and items are what he is after so seeing as hes paid me lots of dosh from over in Kuwait I need to get my a55 in gear and start sourcing everything for his return. Maybe he just wants to play it safe and have the best of everything.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 16Klappe
Bill is a good shout as I said before, that said I have text Alex Kerr your number so expect a phone call today.

Alex has just replied; 625's are a special order in most rods because they have to be line bored and come with the bolts in situ.

And I know how much of a deadline your friend has. :)
 
Last edited:
Cheers to Bill @ Badger 5 for coming up trumps for me.....highly recommended by Jardo too. Tuscon Rod kit and bolts, ARP head stud kit and main kit ordered.

Will keep you all informed and pictures of the build when it happens.
 
Yes but i looked into that a bit more and found that it wouldn't work the same as the IE plate

Double dowel the crank to the flywheel is cheaper

Yeah, as above it would be if I worked in a workshop or had the tools but alas I don't have either so the friction disc is probably cheaper for me than the labour to get the flywheel and crank dowelled.
 
Friction disk and dowel pins for the flywheel?

What are you expecting some dowel pins to do that 6 bolts cant?

I've heard of dowelling the crank pulley before, but thats beacuse people dont tighten them properly and they slip... I really cant see what dowelling the flywheel can achieve?
 
I have one of those friction discs installed on mine, almost certainly overkill at my sub 400 level, but it was a present :laugh:
 
Friction disk and dowel pins for the flywheel?

What are you expecting some dowel pins to do that 6 bolts cant?

I've heard of dowelling the crank pulley before, but thats beacuse people dont tighten them properly and they slip... I really cant see what dowelling the flywheel can achieve?

big power 1.8t's... and I mean big power drag ones, have chucked their flywheels off..
staggering as it may seem.... heard of several having suffered it.
lots of revs, dumping the clutch on launch...
 
Yeh fair enough, all seems a bit overkill for the build mentioned in this thread though i'd have thought?
 
Perhaps but it'd be a much more costly repair if the flywheel took out the crank.
 
For me to dowel the crank to the flywheel cost me nothing. I have seen some ARP flywheel bolts come loose making the flywheel move on the crank destroying the flywheel and crank. ARP flywheel bolt on mine have been torqued to 80 lbs/ft and some have stated lower

For me it was worth it coz i could do it for nothing rather than pay for a friction disc from IE

Good info for flywheel bolts here

VWVortex.com - ARP Flywheel bolt Torque spec

You can see my set up in there too
 
The IE one are EKagrip friction discs... and I quote..

Originally designed for about 100 horsepower, the 6 bolt flywheel interface on the VW / Audi engines struggles when subjected to serious power. Even with ARP Flywheel bolts, this interface can become taxed and allow the flywheel to slip around under high torque. This leads to wear between the surfaces, and shortly thereafter complete failure of the bolts and joint. This ruins the flywheel and crankshaft, and can even damage the transmission bell housing. In order to fight this we had EKagrip make some of their patented nickel and diamond coated friction shims. These shims increase the friction between the two components by up to 3 times what is seen with regular steel on steel contact. This greatly increases the load which can be carried. The shims are .008" thick, and do not cause any alignment problems with the clutch / flywheel. An absolute must for any engine making 450+ ft-lb with the 6 bolt VW/Audi flywheel flange. Increases friction by up to 300% Fits all VW/Audi 6 bolt flywheels A must for high HP engines

I am using an EKagrip washer and ARP bolt for my cam pulley as the supertech springs and eventually cams will add load to a potentially weak OE fixing... have seen cam pulley keys ripped off by using a spanner on the cam pulley bolt to turn the engine over before... seems sensible based on my spec...

<tuffty/>