Big Brake Kit for 8V FL S3

CJP80

Registered User
Joined
May 9, 2007
Messages
331
Reaction score
29
Points
28
Hi Folks

Looking for an upgrade, as I've just bought an S3 with a view to modifying heavily. Plan some track days and want to improve the aesthetics also.

Not looking to spend Brembo BBK money, so a good price/performance ratio is a must.

Can't seem to see any direct replacement offerings via the usual players.

Cheers

CJP80
 
Be very careful when buying big brake kits. There are many outfits who will throw together a lot of off the shelf calipers and discs with no regard for how they then interact with the abs and esp systems or even how they affect front-rear balance.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CJP80 and Rob2k68
Plenty of discussion on this topic over the past year or so. @Rob2k68. has a balanced set up which is an improvment over stock and allows for 18' wheels to be used ( cheaper tyres for track days ! ) that wont break the bank. Like most things the sky is the limit for what you can spend.

Take a look at these two threads ... nice to try and keep things all in one place !!

Robs and other set ups here:

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/s3-brake-disk-upgrade.316136/#post-2991390

And here

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/brake-upgrade.292291/

Big Brake kit offer here from Tom

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/audi-s3-8v-ap-big-brake-kit.305927/#post-2997529

Jungle
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: CJP80 and Rob2k68
I have Tom's setup on mine. Absolutely awesome kit + everyone who sees them goes mental re their looks.

TX.

Sent from my STV100-4 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks folks, I had read all three of those threads before posting. The points GSB addresses are absolutely my concern also. I'm no mech. engineer, so keen to understand exactly what the issue is regarding balance? Is it just front to rear axle, i.e. for a given amount of brake force (retardation) the same front to rear differential (if any) needs to survive a brake upgrade? I'm assuming the ESP and ABS are monitoring rotational speeds relative to one another only, meaning any increased brake retardation on a wheel on the front axle needs to be proportionally matched at the rear. Can't this be achieved by upgrading front and rear? I hate those floating calipers, so a monobloc upgrade is a must.

Does the S3 use any form of brake steer (other than during ESP intervention)?
 
Last edited:
Car is outside so I'll take a pic at lunchtime and post it up :)

TX.

Sent from my STV100-4 using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: MikeParkin, Sandra, Rayner_1704 and 1 other person
Here you go. Wheels are standard 19" on RS3.

TX.
96bb84c3464883e3be0a063f60013dd4.jpg
4ff57b3b05ca8432bfc0c797ed7095bb.jpg


Sent from my STV100-4 using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: MikeParkin, jungle650 and Rob2k68
Looks good. I read you have to change the hubs to mount these on an S3 though?
 
Soz no idea re hubs. Didn't need them on the RS3 though. Tom also does a kit for 18" wheels.

TX.

Sent from my STV100-4 using Tapatalk
 
Anyone think the 18" 6 pot calipers from the B9 S4 would fit the S3?
 
Thanks folks, I had read all three of those threads before posting. The points GSB addresses are absolutely my concern also. I'm no mech. engineer, so keen to understand exactly what the issue is regarding balance? Is it just front to rear axle, i.e. for a given amount of brake force (retardation) the same front to rear differential (if any) needs to survive a brake upgrade? I'm assuming the ESP and ABS are monitoring rotational speeds relative to one another only, meaning any increased brake retardation on a wheel on the front axle needs to be proportionally matched at the rear. Can't this be achieved by upgrading front and rear? I hate those floating calipers, so a monobloc upgrade is a must.

Does the S3 use any form of brake steer (other than during ESP intervention)?
Basic Brake Balance is front to rear, and is in place to compensate for dynamic weight shift when braking. Discounting the vagaries of ABS/ESP etc for the moment and running the risk that some flat earther will again accuse me of being anti-modification;

Key facts, not open for debate, and proven to be as valid as gravity;

1/The higher the centre of gravity, the more the vehicle will tend to lean on its front axle when you brake. (Dynamic weight transfer)

2/ The limiting factor that dictates ultimate stopping distance is always the tyre.

When braking, the tyre has a point where grip becomes slip, and that point is where you extract the maximum amount of braking effort it can transmit from brakes to road. All other things being equal, that point is very dependant upon how much weight is on the tyre. Dynamic weight transfer puts a larger amount of weight over the front axle when braking, consequently the front brakes can brake harder and do more work than the rear brakes, and this is why they are usually larger and have a higher capacity for heat than rear brakes.

To stop the car in the minimum possible distance, then all four tyres need to reach the maximum point of grip-before-slip at the same time when you apply pressure to the brake pedal. This is perfect brake balance. If the brakes on the rear reach it first and lock up, then you have to much rear balance, and will end up **** first in a lot of hedges. If your front brakes reach maximum grip and lock up before the rears, then you have too much front balance. It's much safer that way, but it means the rear brakes aren't working as hard as they could be, and your braking distance is longer than it should be. The magical sweet spot though, is all four wheels working as hard as they possibly can at the same time.

If you slap a set of big discs on the front, or calipers with more/bigger pistons, then the balance moves forward. The brakes at the front will reach the grip/slip point much earlier than before and consequently the rear brakes won't be working as hard. Remember that the ultimate limit of braking is the tyres, so if your fronts are at 100% deceleration, but your rears aren't even breaking a sweat, your ultimate stopping distance will increase. To regain the balance you need a commensurate improvement in the capacity of the rear brakes. Even then your stopping distance will be no better than it was before, since ultimately it's the tyres that bring you to a stop. If you want to improve further, you need stickier rubber. If that wasn't enough to consider, then know that if you lower a car by any meaningful amount, the dynamic weight transfer reduces, and the fronts carry less weight for a given amount of deceleration. In that case it would be the rear brakes that would need upgrading, not the fronts....

This is with a basic non abs system. With abs the complexity level goes up even more...

Now, I'll be the first to admit my chassis dynamics theory is a bit rusty, but unless VAG have come up with a self aware, self calibrating abs controller, then ESP, brake steer and ABS systems are still very dependent upon being preprogrammed with key data related to how much volume of brake fluid to add / release for a given amount of braking torque change. If you put bigger discs on, you increase braking torque for the same pedal effort and suddenly the calibration of the abs is wrong. If you put bigger calipers on, you drastically alter the amount of fluid required to achieve the same increase or decrease in braking torque and the calibration of the abs is wrong.

These are issues that no BBK vendor has ever adequately explained to me, and I've looked into it for every car I've had since 1993. There's an awful lot of "no, we've never had a problem in testing", but then the testing regimen may have been a quick lap of the local council car park for all I know. The total lack of firm data, or even evidence that vendors even have the slightest clue how brakes or ABS work is frightening, so frightening in fact that I've stuck with the tried and tested method of either leaving it alone, or putting on better tyres & better pads. Both seem more palatable than spending four figures on a load of snake oil that buggers my abs up, and leaves me trying to explain to an insurance loss adjuster / magistrate exactly how these untested and non OEM approved modifications to a critical safety system were justified.
 
  • Like
Reactions: James09, DJAlix, jungle650 and 1 other person
Basic Brake Balance is front to rear, and is in place to compensate for dynamic weight shift when braking. Discounting the vagaries of ABS/ESP etc for the moment and running the risk that some flat earther will again accuse me of being anti-modification;

Key facts, not open for debate, and proven to be as valid as gravity;

1/The higher the centre of gravity, the more the vehicle will tend to lean on its front axle when you brake. (Dynamic weight transfer)

2/ The limiting factor that dictates ultimate stopping distance is always the tyre.

When braking, the tyre has a point where grip becomes slip, and that point is where you extract the maximum amount of braking effort it can transmit from brakes to road. All other things being equal, that point is very dependant upon how much weight is on the tyre. Dynamic weight transfer puts a larger amount of weight over the front axle when braking, consequently the front brakes can brake harder and do more work than the rear brakes, and this is why they are usually larger and have a higher capacity for heat than rear brakes.

To stop the car in the minimum possible distance, then all four tyres need to reach the maximum point of grip-before-slip at the same time when you apply pressure to the brake pedal. This is perfect brake balance. If the brakes on the rear reach it first and lock up, then you have to much rear balance, and will end up **** first in a lot of hedges. If your front brakes reach maximum grip and lock up before the rears, then you have too much front balance. It's much safer that way, but it means the rear brakes aren't working as hard as they could be, and your braking distance is longer than it should be. The magical sweet spot though, is all four wheels working as hard as they possibly can at the same time.

If you slap a set of big discs on the front, or calipers with more/bigger pistons, then the balance moves forward. The brakes at the front will reach the grip/slip point much earlier than before and consequently the rear brakes won't be working as hard. Remember that the ultimate limit of braking is the tyres, so if your fronts are at 100% deceleration, but your rears aren't even breaking a sweat, your ultimate stopping distance will increase. To regain the balance you need a commensurate improvement in the capacity of the rear brakes. Even then your stopping distance will be no better than it was before, since ultimately it's the tyres that bring you to a stop. If you want to improve further, you need stickier rubber. If that wasn't enough to consider, then know that if you lower a car by any meaningful amount, the dynamic weight transfer reduces, and the fronts carry less weight for a given amount of deceleration. In that case it would be the rear brakes that would need upgrading, not the fronts....

This is with a basic non abs system. With abs the complexity level goes up even more...

Now, I'll be the first to admit my chassis dynamics theory is a bit rusty, but unless VAG have come up with a self aware, self calibrating abs controller, then ESP, brake steer and ABS systems are still very dependent upon being preprogrammed with key data related to how much volume of brake fluid to add / release for a given amount of braking torque change. If you put bigger discs on, you increase braking torque for the same pedal effort and suddenly the calibration of the abs is wrong. If you put bigger calipers on, you drastically alter the amount of fluid required to achieve the same increase or decrease in braking torque and the calibration of the abs is wrong.

These are issues that no BBK vendor has ever adequately explained to me, and I've looked into it for every car I've had since 1993. There's an awful lot of "no, we've never had a problem in testing", but then the testing regimen may have been a quick lap of the local council car park for all I know. The total lack of firm data, or even evidence that vendors even have the slightest clue how brakes or ABS work is frightening, so frightening in fact that I've stuck with the tried and tested method of either leaving it alone, or putting on better tyres & better pads. Both seem more palatable than spending four figures on a load of snake oil that buggers my abs up, and leaves me trying to explain to an insurance loss adjuster / magistrate exactly how these untested and non OEM approved modifications to a critical safety system were justified.

As I read this ... I cant get out of my head an image of the current Doctor Who , played by Peter Capaldi with a tartan scarf wrapped around his neck, fighting with controls of the Tardis, saying " Now let me explain this ..... "

Damm these avatars... now where are those Xmas specials some of you had with the skimpy bits !! .. much rather have those images floating in my head !!

:rockwoot:
Jungle
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rob2k68
Thanks GSB, I'm aware of the dynamics of increasing the braking force at the front axle in isolation. I intend to swap the rears out also.

A lot of your concerns are equally applicable in scenarios where tyres are mixed, heavy passengers in the front impacting the centre of mass, etc. The answer to your concerns would lie in whether or not there's any adaption to the BFD or ABS intervention thresholds based on loading of each wheel, and whether or not there's any compensation for such.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Terminator x
Thanks GSB, I'm aware of the dynamics of increasing the braking force at the front axle in isolation. I intend to swap the rears out also.

A lot of your concerns are equally applicable in scenarios where tyres are mixed, heavy passengers in the front impacting the centre of mass, etc. The answer to your concerns would lie in whether or not there's any adaption to the BFD or ABS intervention thresholds based on loading of each wheel, and whether or not there's any compensation for such.

These factors are all considered by the OEM when they calibrate the car, and whilst there's not a lot they can do if someone is daft enough to mix tyres about the relative differences in grip would be well within the capabilities of an abs system working with the brake system it was calibrated for. There is some definitely adaption related to loading. In years gone by this was achieved with a load sensing bias valve on the rear axle. This was a very simple pressure limiting valve that would permit more brake pressure on the rear brakes if the rear suspension was compressed. The usual reason for suspension compression would be extra weight in the car, in which case it was safe to add extra pressure to the rear brakes as they could accommodate the extra load. What wasn't readily understood by some members of the burgeoning max power classes though, was that lowering a car to its bumpstops would put rear brake pressure up, but with no extra weight in the car the brake balance could become dangerously rear biased. A great number of XR3i's, R5GTT's etc met their end due to this issue.

Nowadays the rear biasing is handled in the abs controller, using feedback from wheel position sensors with the backstop of abs actuation should it go wrong. It's still reliant upon initial calibration data points though, and if these aren't altered to reflect the dynamics of cars new braking system, I'm not sure the results would even be predictable, never mind result in finely optimised braking, which is surely the aim of going to all this trouble and expense in the first place?
 
Can't disagree with any of your analysis. Certainly better than the normalisation of deviance we see regarding most mods...
 
Better pic with clean brakes.

TX.
52773a89ca95b7df99e9b17b74d5c6a9.jpg


Sent from my STV100-4 using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rob2k68
Can't disagree with any of your analysis. Certainly better than the normalisation of deviance we see regarding most mods...
It's really not my area of expertise, but I worry when I talk to vendors and come away feeling that I know more than they do about the system they've dramatically altered. As a result, I've come to the conclusion that 99% of big brake kit makers are in fact little more than people with access to a massive AP/Brembo catalogue and a CNC mill with which to knock up a few brackets. The "engineering" goes no further than seeing just how much disk and pistons can be shoehorned under a plus sized rim and how good it looks once it's done. Only two companies I've ever spoken to had any real clue about how their products would integrate with the vehicle safety systems, one was KAD, whose disc brake kits for old drum braked minis are stellar, (but really don't have to try that hard because drum brakes are so diabolical). The other was US company Stop-Tech, who I spoke to when I was trying to cure a 600hp Ford pickup of its tendency to melt its brakes every time its owner tried to stop. Everyone else gave me a load on non-commital crap about how they'd never encountered any problems in testing, but none has ever elaborated on the nature of the testing, or provided proof they've even looked at the issue. Some have even said things about brakes that defy the laws of physics and reason.

I'm more than ready to be proved wrong, but I think a market where 99% of buyers are adding BBK just to look good has spawned a supply network of BBK vendors that provide just that.

As I read this ... I cant get out of my head an image of the current Doctor Who , played by Peter Capaldi with a tartan scarf wrapped around his neck, fighting with controls of the Tardis, saying " Now let me explain this ..... "

Damm these avatars... now where are those Xmas specials some of you had with the skimpy bits !! .. much rather have those images floating in my head !!

:rockwoot:
Jungle

I'm more a fan of Capaldi's role as Chief Whip in the political satire The Thick Of It. I won't say he's a role model, but I do admire his ability to be a little more direct when delivering news of his discontent.

Warning, he's a bit sweary, so probably not safe for work ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rob2k68