Best thing to clean up chrome roof rails?

scoss

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Mine are milky white and look terrible. What product could I buy to get them looking lovely again?

Thanks
 
Are these the factory fitted ones, or a retrofit? Factory fitted is aluminium, not chrome
 
I would use traffic film remover or a all purpose cleaner basically decontamination then use a pre cleanser,then apply a wax or Sealant over them, these are not solid aluminium just bare this in mind
 
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Like the auto glym “tar remover”?
 
Mine are milky white and look terrible. What product could I buy to get them looking lovely again?

Thanks

I have an A4 Cabriolet with windshield sill large made of aluminum trim with hard anodize coating that has also oxidized. Have the same problem and it looks like you will have to use a small power tool, special scotch-guard like pad (that won't load up or overheat) with polishing compound to penetrate the oxidized layer of hard anodize, or possibly to the raw aluminum base metal and wax often to protect the finish. Had to do a similar thing to my Harley front forks which had a clear coat, not nearly as tough as hard anodize.
 
I would use traffic film remover or a all purpose cleaner basically decontamination then use a pre cleanser,then apply a wax or Sealant over them, these are not solid aluminium just bare this in mind

So what’s could do wrong?
 
So what’s could do wrong?
If the coating has eroded away in any way best not to use polish as it's abrasive and could make them look worse, why did you let them get this in the first place as prevention is better than cure
 
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If the coating has eroded away in any way best not to use polish as it's abrasive and could make them look worse, why did you let them get this in the first place as prevention is better than cure


Just something I’ve ignored. To be honest the garage lights were beaming tonight so it’s was showing up in the worst light. Might take it to some body shop and see what they say.
 

Use WD40 to clean surface oxidation and it works great. The problem is WD-40 is a kerosene based cleaner that evaporates and if the oxidation is deeper, the milkiness will return. If it does not, clean the area again only with brakleen to remove petrol residue and use a good paste wax and your done. But (isn’t there always) if the oxidation is too deep. Then the next layer of anodized coating is the electrolysis coated base aluminum. Stick with the WD40, Brakleen and wax.
 

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Use WD40 to clean surface oxidation and it works great. The problem is WD-40 is a kerosene based cleaner that evaporates and if the oxidation is deeper, the milkiness will return. If it does not, clean the area again only with brakleen to remove petrol residue and use a good paste wax and your done. But (isn’t there always) if the oxidation is too deep. Then the next layer of anodized coating is the electrolysis coated base aluminum. Stick with the WD40, Brakleen and wax.


I’ve read quite a few suggestions. Others say auto glym metal polish. Or autosol too. It’s they’re aluminium rails this does make sense. What wax paste product do you use?
 
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WD40 is cost effective and in most DIY’s garage already. Paste wax on sale is what I go with...that has carnuba wax as the main ingredient.
 
I used a scouring pad. Believe it or not, worked a treat.


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Don’t recommend anything abrasive initially, just use WD40 and light rubbing with paper towels and let the solvent do it’s work. The hard anodize is a coating etched to aluminum via electrolytic process and is very tough but thin. You could scour and possibly compromise that coating if too aggressive. The rag on the left is a used Bounce dryer sheet I used to apply and gently rub in the WD40. I followed up with paper towels and Brakleen more paper towels and applied the paste wax.
 

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Don’t recommend anything abrasive initially, just use WD40 and light rubbing with paper towels and let the solvent do it’s work. The hard anodize is a coating etched to aluminum via electrolytic process and is very tough but thin. You could scour and possibly compromise that coating if too aggressive. The rag on the left is a used Bounce dryer sheet I used to apply and gently rub in the WD40. I followed up with paper towels and Brakleen more paper towels and applied the paste wax.

So you’d use WD40 first before a metal polish? Would a microfibre cloth be ok?
 
So you’d use WD40 first before a metal polish? Would a microfibre cloth be ok?
Try a soft/finishing 2/3 "pad on a cordless drill, from ebay etc there cheap but tape off the surrounding paint work this will give far better results than by hand,polish like autoglym super resin polish etc
 
Use WD-40 first, because it works at a very mild chemical-molecular level to clean out any contaminants of the anodize (Aluminum Oxide coated) passivated aluminum surface. Like I said the anodize AL oxide coating is only microns thick, so any aggressive scrubbing action might damage it. I go for more aggressive rubbing if the anodize is actually damaged. It will look "waxy" or "wavy" were the white corrosion has etched it away in much the same process as the anodize coating was applied (electrolysis damage). WD-40 as is Brakleen is easily found and inexpensive.

Wikipedia has this to say..."--Anodized aluminium surfaces, for example, are harder than aluminium but have low to moderate wear resistance that can be improved with increasing thickness or by applying suitable sealing substances."
 
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WD-40, Brakleen and Carnuba based car wax are simple, low cost, easily obtained products that are usually on hand in most DIYers garages, with little or no elbow grease required. I am sure the other methods described by other posters probably will work, but I like to keep things simple. Probably detailers have known this trick for a long time, but kept it hush hush to sell exotic cleaners and wax products. JMHO
 
paint or wrap mate no matter how much you clean or polish them as soon as it rains or get wet they will look milkey again.