Battery Drain

Odd thing is I no longer have the fault code for the left rear foot well light and I haven't disturbed the interior at all today. I left the rear door cards off yesterday so perhaps the looms drying out is helping.
Different question, is it possible to cut the alarm siren open to replace the batteries?
Thanks, Mark.
 
There's a thread on how to do the battery's on here .. You can't replace them but you can add a battery pack that's if your old battery's haven't leaked and eaten into the board ..
 
What a bleedin nightmare! is there any water under the carpet in the foot wells due to the drainage grommet being blocked under the battery?
 
What a bleedin nightmare! is there any water under the carpet in the foot wells due to the drainage grommet being blocked under the battery?

No the carpet is dry mate. I don't mind getting problems with my cars so long as you can identify the fault and fix it quickly and properly.
 
Weather looks dry (ish) today so I'm going to set my DMM up and go through the fuses.
Because my CCM is waking up randomly what current will this draw? I'll set the meter on unfused 10A (unfortunately my DMM doesn't go to 20A).
Basically while I'm unplugging door looms etc and then reconnecting them, what max current draw can I expect.
 
As long as you dont turn the ignition on you should be ok, if the ignition goes on the glow plugs will pull a good 60 or 70 amps!!
The central locking motors will spike as well..
I think from memory the courtesy lighting will pull 3 - 4 amps.
When the car is asleep the draw sould only be 20 or so mA, or 0.02 amps, if the hazard switch comes on and it wakes, it'll probably pull around 0.6 - 1amp.
Last time I had a similar problem the draw when locked and asleep was about 20mA, low enough to notice the led in the door, you might see the meter flick between 0.02 and 0.03ish as the led flashes..
I seem to think that the ccm supplies the door lights with a positive, and switch them on the negative side, npn style. The water in the door harness could well upset everything. Without having in depth circuit diagrams of the ccm and details of how its programmed it hard to know exactly how it reacts, but it certainly upsets something..
 
As expected the draw is quite high in awake mode. I did all this with ignition off and key out.
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When it briefly went into snooze mode the draw was less but it just keeps waking up again.
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The only way I could keep it snoozing was to lock the doors using the switch on the drivers door card, then remove the CCM fuses, then close and lock the drivers door with the key. Once the car went snoozing it stayed asleep.....bless.
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A bit of a faff but at least my battery won't drain.
However I disconnected the passenger front door loom from the A pillar but then realised I couldn't shut the door so I reconnected it. But now this door wouldn't lock on command. I opened it and played around with it, simulating closing and locking and it worked fine until I physically shut it and it would refuse lock. Now in my stupidity I once again opened the door, locked it and then.....wait for it guys...yes I shut the ****** door. No when you clever dudes pick yourselves off the floor, how the hell do I get this door open now?
I think what has happened is when I reconnected the loom it hasn't connected properly, but how do I get to it now?
 
Oh wow thankfully I left the door card off so managed to persuade the connector on the other side to make contact. Panic over!
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I know exactly how you felt there mate, a couple of weeks ago my front passenger door deadlock wouldnt unlock, no way to open the door inside or out.
Thankfully it did a couple of days later, I've now disabled the poxy things so they don't come on, stick deadlocks up your ar$e!!
If someone wants it that badly they'll take it deadlocks or not, if they want something inside they'll stick a brick through the window. Dam thing still won't start if they do get in, the immobiliser won't let it.
As of a few weeks ago I'll never use the things again, bearing in mind that could happen on any car that has them fitted. Interestingly Mercedes refuse to fit the things...
 
That's me done with this issue now. Taking 2 fuses out each evening and sticking them back in the next morning isn't ideal but it's better than ******* about charging the battery.
I could do with bypassing these fuses and fitting circuit breakers! I'll look into it and suggestions welcome.
 
Are you sure it isnt just water getting into your rear door thats aggravating it. Is the rubber boot around the door latch ok?
It did settle down when it dried out didn't it.. If water got in round there it would end up on that harnesss..
 
This is the picture I posted previously showing the n/s rear loom soaking wet. This is where the loom runs down the door adjacent to the door hinges. The loom coming up the other side to the connector and lock assy were / are bone dry. Yesterday when I freed off the rear door connector rubber boots from the pillar a bit of water dribbled out of them. It gets everywhere!

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The only way to sort this imo is to strip seats and carpet out - completely! Then try and isolate the loom into sections where multi connectors meet and check from furthest away and work back towards CCM and fuse bank.
I haven't got the patience for this tbh, if my car was like Mike M's different story if you catch my drift or a mint black Quattro Sport I'd fix it but my car is well nothing special. 30 seconds removing or fitting fuses isn't going to bother me.
Just a thought here, I had to remove both CCM fuses to force the system to stay asleep. Now how much wiring are we talking about here? Interfering with a loom could raise fresh problems, maybe?
I've had my Audi nearly 3 years now and it's nudging 198,000. Once you start getting electrical problems with a 15 year old car with 200k they'll keep on coming.
I've seen a few Audi's for sale lately, a 2.5 Quattro in same colour as mine for instance. I'd like a 1.9 Quattro sport but they fetch 3.0 Quattro money!
 
Well I just don't ****** believe it!
Unlocked the car this morning using the key, popped the fuses back in (been out all night) and unlocked the rest of the car. I took a few tools out of the boot (working on the Celica) and then locked the car using the fob. It went into snooze mode and stayed asleep. I've unlocked and locked the car a few times over the last 2 hours and each time it has gone to sleep and stayed asleep. The car is soaking wet as well!
 
Sounds like you've got a broken wire somewhere .. Follow the wire as far as you can into the car and replace the wires all the way into your door
 
Driven the car a few times today and locked / unlocked it dozens of times. The hazard light has not stayed on once. I'm trying to understand how it has fixed itself.
Perhaps leaving the CCM fuses out overnight has done something, but I don't think so, I left them out on a previous night with no effect. The only other thing is the passenger front door. That issue I had with the door being stuck in the locked position because I hadn't located the connector properly. When I reached through from the footwell to push the other side of the connector I remember it felt like it definitely moved, so maybe it was that point where there was a weak connection?
I obviously don't know for certain but fingers crossed!!
 

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