B9 S4 354PS - 0-60 in 3.85 seconds..

Thanks @Daggerit I will have the sit patiently for now. It’s the longest I have had a car without doing a stage 1 tune to atleast

Yeah I’m similar. The guys above look like a good option, but not for €4,500 or whatever it is for a stage 1 on our cars...


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Yeah I’m similar. The guys above look like a good option, but not for €4,500 or whatever it is for a stage 1 on our cars...


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Just a little steep to be honest. Would be nice if Revo had any time scales, as the car is 2 years old now I would of thought they would be close to releasing something.
 
Just a little steep to be honest. Would be nice if Revo had any time scales, as the car is 2 years old now I would of thought they would be close to releasing something.

A little steep?! I’d say ridiculously expensive for a tune basically... I’m hoping for Revo or APR sorting something soon too but they seem to be struggling with the ECU.


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It took a while to crack the SIMOS ECUs on the B8 (and I would believe that the tuners did not crack the SIMOS 16 themselves, they all rely on the fact that Flashtec did). From everything I have read, the Bosch MG1 ECU used on the B9 is more sophisticated and will be harder to crack.
 
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NEWBIE Alert.

Hi all, I 'think' that I've read all this correctly, but I can't find an answer to this.

I've got a DTUK box for my 2018 S4. What Audi 'MAP' should the car be left in to get the most out of the tuning box? I've always had it in Dynamic mode.

Also, is the APP Dynolicious had a name change? When I searched the APP store, I was prompted 'GSpot' APP.

thanks in advance
 
NEWBIE Alert.

Hi all, I 'think' that I've read all this correctly, but I can't find an answer to this.

I've got a DTUK box for my 2018 S4. What Audi 'MAP' should the car be left in to get the most out of the tuning box? I've always had it in Dynamic mode.

Also, is the APP Dynolicious had a name change? When I searched the APP store, I was prompted 'GSpot' APP.

thanks in advance

I can't say for sure about how the engine is mapped in the different drive select modes (if it's different at all), but the throttle and transmission response will be significantly better in Dynamic mode so that would be your best bet for getting the fastest accelerations for sure. Efficiency and comfort dull the throttle response but I don't know if they actually reduce the power output or not. :)

Afraid I don't know about the app question but I'm sure someone will be able to say.
 
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I can't say for sure about how the engine is mapped in the different drive select modes (if it's different at all), but the throttle and transmission response will be significantly better in Dynamic mode so that would be your best bet for getting the fastest accelerations for sure. Efficiency and comfort dull the throttle response but I don't know if they actually reduce the power output or not. :)

Afraid I don't know about the app question but I'm sure someone will be able to say.

Thank you. That makes sense. I should have figured that. Although, EFFICIENCY mode definitely seems to mute the power. I call that #WIFEMODE ;-)
 
Thank you. That makes sense. I should have figured that. Although, EFFICIENCY mode definitely seems to mute the power. I call that #WIFEMODE ;-)

It certainly makes it more sluggish! Although, to it's credit, it was very good at increasing the fuel economy when I was doing 70+ mile commutes for a while. I would fairly consistently see 15-20% better mpg using it instead of Auto or Comfort. And thankfully there was a back road section at each end of the commute for me to wreck the mpg in Dynamic mode... :tearsofjoy:
 
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NEWBIE Alert.

Hi all, I 'think' that I've read all this correctly, but I can't find an answer to this.

I've got a DTUK box for my 2018 S4. What Audi 'MAP' should the car be left in to get the most out of the tuning box? I've always had it in Dynamic mode.

Also, is the APP Dynolicious had a name change? When I searched the APP store, I was prompted 'GSpot' APP.

thanks in advance
Hi,

I don't think the last responder understood the question properly. I have a DTUK box and find it best on 2+1 & in dynamic mode/sport. Sorry, but cannot answer the Dynolicious question.
 
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Hi,

I don't think the last responder understood the question properly. I have a DTUK box and find it best on 2+1 & in dynamic mode/sport. Sorry, but cannot answer the Dynolicious question.

Thanks. I think the answer was correct. I was wondering what setting to put the car in, not the box. I saw the awesome advice on the box config.

thanks again!
 
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Hi,

I don't think the last responder understood the question properly. I have a DTUK box and find it best on 2+1 & in dynamic mode/sport. Sorry, but cannot answer the Dynolicious question.

Thanks. I think the answer was correct. I was wondering what setting to put the car in, not the box. I saw the awesome advice on the box config.

thanks again!
It certainly makes it more sluggish! Although, to it's credit, it was very good at increasing the fuel economy when I was doing 70+ mile commutes for a while. I would fairly consistently see 15-20% better mpg using it instead of Auto or Comfort. And thankfully there was a back road section at each end of the commute for me to wreck the mpg in Dynamic mode... :tearsofjoy:

Interesting.... I was once reminded that I didn't buy the car for efficient driving haha. That said, my monthly London comment (180 miles) yields 38 MPG in Dynamic mode. That's about 400 miles from the full tank. Normal town driving is 15 MPG and average/mixed driving is 28 MPG.
 
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It took a while to crack the SIMOS ECUs on the B8 (and I would believe that the tuners did not crack the SIMOS 16 themselves, they all rely on the fact that Flashtec did). From everything I have read, the Bosch MG1 ECU used on the B9 is more sophisticated and will be harder to crack.
Triple encrypted is the rumour!

TX.

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Hi,

I don't think the last responder understood the question properly. I have a DTUK box and find it best on 2+1 & in dynamic mode/sport. Sorry, but cannot answer the Dynolicious question.

Quick Q, I haven't been able to get much clarity out of the vendor on this: of the three map profiles (1,2 &3) can you tell without dyno'ing the car on each profile how the boost delivery is altered? I get the + - control simply add absolute boost across the given map, but I would love to know the power curve difference on each map.
 
Quick Q, I haven't been able to get much clarity out of the vendor on this: of the three map profiles (1,2 &3) can you tell without dyno'ing the car on each profile how the boost delivery is altered? I get the + - control simply add absolute boost across the given map, but I would love to know the power curve difference on each map.

I've seen graphs for the standard UK maps for the S4 and they're very similar. Map 1 and 2 are the same up top and the main thing is when the extra power comes in and how 'steep' the slope is for how hard it comes on. If I remember rightly map 3 comes in the smoothest and also has a little more up top, but the extra on top is minimal over the other two maps. I run map 3-1 as the overall power is d@mn near the same as 3-0 but the shifts are smoother on my car.

Basically the overall power is essentially the same and it's just down to the overall feel and what you prefer.
 
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Thanks. I think the answer was correct. I was wondering what setting to put the car in, not the box. I saw the awesome advice on the box config.

thanks again!


Interesting.... I was once reminded that I didn't buy the car for efficient driving haha. That said, my monthly London comment (180 miles) yields 38 MPG in Dynamic mode. That's about 400 miles from the full tank. Normal town driving is 15 MPG and average/mixed driving is 28 MPG.

I think our cars have a 58L tank (12.74 UK gallons) so if you get 400 miles out of a tank that's just over 31MPG.
 
I think our cars have a 58L tank (12.74 UK gallons) so if you get 400 miles out of a tank that's just over 31MPG.

I was just going by the DIS average for the trip. I hadn't performed an actual calculation, so thanks. Honestly, I don't really care that much haha. However, just out of interest, I set the car and the DTUK box to efficiency today and drove 150 miles. The DIS reported 39 MPG and I averaged around 60 MPH, mostly motorway. On the way back, I set the car to Dynamic and the DTUK to Dynamic for 75 miles and Sport for 75 miles. There wasn't much difference for the motorway journey (37 MPG). Therefore I think that I'm going to leave the car/DTUK box on Dynamic/Sport modes.

The car did 320 miles today, and it's reporting 24% fuel tank capacity remaining, with 120 miles estimated remaining. I think that computes to around 33 MPG for 76% of the 12.74 UK gallons used. Again, I don't really care, but it's interesting.

In terms of the DTUK Maps, I'm running MAP2 and Boost +1. When the transmission is in SPORT mode, the car is very aggressive and the gear changes are not smooth at all. I'll need to play around with this... May be try what you have set MAP3 +1 or -1?
 
Wow, great mpg. Last 1k miles in my S4 is coming in at 25.4mpg
 
Anyone got any videos of the S4 running the DTUK box? Searched youtube but nothing there of much interest.
 
Anyone got any videos of the S4 running the DTUK box? Searched youtube but nothing there of much interest.
i've downloaded a few apps that are supposed to time 0-60 and 1/4 mile etc with video and using an OBD2 device. Will try and have a go over the weekend.
 
NP, not being a forum pedant, just wanted to know if the box murders MPG (seems like it doesn't) .

Regarding the choppy gear changes on a +1 boost setting, I suspect the car is trying too hard to hit the expected boost targets.
I've seen this from experience tuning other turbo cars: The ECU is like why the feck aren't I hitting my boost target and slaps the wastegate fully
open,
the boost or load target then gets overshot through the gear and it dumps boost at the top of the gear just as it selects the next (moving from high RPM, lower wastegate duty to medium RPM full/high wastegate duty again)

The other thing that you can see happening in piggybacks that allow logging is the boost target is just too high and never gets hit (more of a problem in 1st and 2nd as there isn't time to reach the target boost level, can also happen on really hot days when the IC is red hot too) this really makes for a stuttery drive and works the turbo v.hard.

Ideally I would like BMS to hurry up and release the JB4 for our engines because it has code reading and logging features but its been in beta for a very long time. I'm doubtful they will have anything stable to market in the next 12 months...
 
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NP, not being a forum pedant, just wanted to know if the box murders MPG (seems like it doesn't) .

Regarding the choppy gear changes on a +1 boost setting, I suspect the car is trying too hard to hit the expected boost targets.
I've seen this from experience tuning other turbo cars: The ECU is like why the feck aren't I hitting my boost target and slaps the wastegate fully
open,
the boost or load target then gets overshot through the gear and it dumps boost at the top of the gear just as it selects the next (moving from high RPM, lower wastegate duty to medium RPM full/high wastegate duty again)

The other thing that you can see happening in piggybacks that allow logging is the boost target is just too high and never gets hit (more of a problem in 1st and 2nd as there isn't time to reach the target boost level, can also happen on really hot days when the IC is red hot too) this really makes for a stuttery drive and works the turbo v.hard.

Ideally I would like BMS to hurry up and release the JB4 for our engines because it has code reading and logging features but its been in beta for a very long time. I'm doubtful they will have anything stable to market in the next 12 months...


So best to set boost to ‘0’ then I guess...
 
Potentially. I don't know if the ECU would then throw it's toys out of the pram though. If you turn these units up beyond where the ECU is happy then it'll throw up an engine management light because the OEM safety settings are retained...
 
My theory is the turbo will be better able to hit the boost targets the piggy back is tricking the ECU into, with less heat / waste gate opening.

Planning to test out that theory soon!
 
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My theory is the turbo will be better able to hit the boost targets the piggy back is tricking the ECU into, with less heat / waste gate opening.

Planning to test out that theory soon!

Are you planning on changing the exhaust? That would be interesting to see. I also saw a video of a guy who replaced his exhaust, and difference from a larger downpipe seemed crazy.

I too wondered if the higher boost would work if the engine could breathe a little better. I took the snow filter out of the air box, which looks very restrictive! It didn't do much other than make the intake a little louder. Not going to bother with an induction kit. The filter catches all kinds of debris that has been flying in through the grill, so does it's job.

BTW: Only tried boost +1 and there were no errors thrown up. Not that Carista could see anyway. It was just very aggressive on the gear changes up and down. Running Map 3 boost 0 at the moment and it's much smoother.
 
Are you planning on changing the exhaust? That would be interesting to see. I also saw a video of a guy who replaced his exhaust, and difference from a larger downpipe seemed crazy.

I too wondered if the higher boost would work if the engine could breathe a little better. I took the snow filter out of the air box, which looks very restrictive! It didn't do much other than make the intake a little louder. Not going to bother with an induction kit. The filter catches all kinds of debris that has been flying in through the grill, so does it's job.

BTW: Only tried boost +1 and there were no errors thrown up. Not that Carista could see anyway. It was just very aggressive on the gear changes up and down. Running Map 3 boost 0 at the moment and it's much smoother.

In terms of intakes, you can run a K&N RD-6010 filter in place of the stock item without changing the OEM housing or anything, which is what I’ve done. Good noise but all OEM plastics.


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That's the one! It's cheaper than a full system but gives you some good intake sound, as well as being able to hear some turbo flutter and nice whooshing sounds when you rev. It's loud enough that someone driving beside me said he could hear it over my Milltek system when I accelerated hard. :)

I have a milltek - does this add much to the musical mix?
 
I have a milltek - does this add much to the musical mix?

It certainly adds more turbo noise! You get a nice noise on spool up as well as the recirculation valve (dump valve) opening and letting out a little hiss. You need to crack the window though as it's too well insulated to hear with them up. It's very noticeable driving by though, and only costs about £40 for the RD-6010 filter so doesn't break the bank either.
 
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Last night I installed this:

DSC_1462 by pulpmelon, on Flickr

The woosh on spool is much much louder with the windows down now, I'm really surprised actually, didn't think a drop in cone filter would make this much extra external sound!
 
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I ordered mine a week ago (from BMC air filter shop in Germany) so I'm hopeful it will arrive soon.

Is it easy to fit? Anything to watch out for when removing the existing?
 
Star headed screws on top of airbox to undo, the twist out the old air filter, easy peasy.
 
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