B6 Timing Belt Issue - 1.9TDi (PD - AVF)

[Dibs_h]

Got the front bumper off - complete pig, lock carrier in service position and turned the engine by hand to get #1 to TDC.

Now if I set the cam sprocket according it it's marks (the 4Z pointer in the middle of the 2 "lugs"), a 6mm drill bit can be inserted quite some way. So fairly sure - the top is spot on.

Here comes the problem - the crank isn't. To get the crank to where it needs to go and fit the crank locking tool & the mark on the crank sprocket to line up with the mark on the locking tool, the cam moves out slightly, enough for the drill bit not to insert fully.

There is a reasonable gap (5 or so mm) between the 2 lugs that the 4Z pointer should be between and when the crank lines up - the 4Z is pointing to the one end of the gap (between the 2 pointers if that makes sense). i.e. for the crank to lock the cam has to go counter clockwise 1 or 2 degrees and the 4Z pointer is now on the edge of the gap, as opposed to the middle.

I was thinking of locking up the crank - cam is 1 or 2 degrees out, remove belt, turn the cam enough to insert a drill bit all the way and then loosen the 4 bolts on the sprocket and continue. Does this sound OK?

Oh - did plug VCDS before hand and the value in Measuring Block 4 (Torsion value) was 0.

Cheers

Dibs

 

[murran]

mark with an acurate mark where the adjustment is now. loosen the cam pulley bolts off and set it using the tools. fit new cambelt etc.
run it up and re-check the torsion value after, before refitting the front panel/top cambelt cover...... adjust as nessasary.

 

[Dibs_h]

Cheers for the advice. After posting up, I went back outside and thought I might as well have one more go, before taking it out of service position and "locking" it up for the night.

Put the drill bit in when the cam was 10 or so degrees BTC and slowly turned the crank, and applied a little pressure to the drill bit. When the 4Z mark was in the middle, between the 2 lugs - the drill bit went in a lot further.

Decided to check the crank sprocket and pushed the locking widget forward & **** me - it engaged easy as pie.

Don't know what the moral of this story is except if it don't work 3 times - have another go! LOL!

So I left both cam & crank locked up and lock carrier in the normal position. It's too late to try and plod on. So thought, I'll pick up in the morning as I've got the water pump to change and best get an early start. LOL

Well peeved with the bumper skin - after removing the 3 bolts & torx on either end, 1 torx (upwards) above the lower fogs and single torx upwards in the centre lower grill - would it come off, would it hell.

Only to discover there are 2 more Torx's - take the headlights out (the power connector is a whole different story - ****** hate VAG power connectors. Maybe I need to go on a course for them or something) and these screws thru from "inside" inside the aluminium carrier. Roughly 4 inches above the ones that are upwards on the lower fog aperture.

Then a fair few plastic lugs along the top (where the bonnet grill closes down to) tore. Was livid. But then had a close look and wondered whether that was going to happen as there might have been a previous repair in the past. So got to fix that tomorrow when I button it up. Think I have some Tiger thingy sealant stuff on the garage.

Thankfully won't be coming round to this headache (timing belt etc.) for a few years more!

Cheers

Dibs

 

[murran]

sounds like youve taken the bumper off all wrong.

theres some t25 torx screws that hold the sh1t guards in the wheel arches. three nuts either side that hold the bumper to the wings. pull on the sides of the bumper outwards as its clipped into the wing. three undertray style screws under the bumper. bob the bumper grilles out on each side look up to find a t45 torx bolt either side thru a hole in the ally bumper beam. you cant remove these but undo them to the point where the bolt head can be seen nearly inside the hole. pull on the bumper and it slides off the bumper irons. unplug the horns/fog lamps/head light squirters if you have them.

 

[Dibs_h]

That's what I did do - there are 2 more torx above the 2 in the ally beam. These you have to remove having taken the headlights out. Trust me on this - it wouldn't come off with those still there.

Here's a picture of the bumper skin,

The one circled in red is the one that you loosen from underneath - where the torx doesn't come out. That still leaves the top one (in green) that you have to take the headlight out and reach underneath the aly beam and remove the torx.

There is also one more, up into the aly beam, from the middle of the centre lower grill. The bumper skin has little lugs that engage just above the top of the beam - these should just pull out.

Trouble is, not all did. They ones in the middle sheared.

You can see they've sheared along the curved bit.

I suspect the car has had some front end repairs - slight overspray (lacquer) on the front of the wings (where they meed the bumper) indicates this.

I've done a B5 a few times and the skin just comes away - unless it's had prior damage\work.

Cheers

Dibs

 

[Dibs_h]

This plastic "thing" remains on the aly beam,

Is that supposed to come off? Because if it is - there are Torx that are only accessible from inside the aly beam and not readily accessible.

Cheers

Dibs

 

[Dibs_h]

Just googled and found this - Audi A4 B6 Bumper Replacement | Removal And Installation | | Happy Wrenching

seems the aly beam is supposed to come off with the bumper skin complete. - will have some "repairs" to do in the morning!


Dibs

p.s. Just been out and taken the beam off - taken the plastic thingy off it and looks like with a bit of adhesive (think I have some Tiger Seal Pol or something in the garage) and a few rivets should fix my impatience with the bumper. Will report back tomorrow. Hopefully the rest of the work should go without incident.

 

[murran]

ah, you didnt take the beam off with the bumper haha. you'll know for next time!

 

[Dibs_h]

Some Tigerseal and some rivets certainly did do the trick. Sorted the bumper out 1st and then got cracking with the engine.

The Haynes manual - why on Earth does it say loosen the cam sprocket bolts and turn sprocket fully anti clockwise so the 3 bolts hit the end of the slots? Anti Clockwise for the friction tensioner & fully clockwise for the hydraulic one.

Yet the SKF video shows\says them to be in the middle? Followed the SKF video and thought sod the manual.

Turned the engine over by hand quite a few times and the cam locked and the crank mark lined up with the locking tool. The pointer on the tensioner didn't move from the middle of the gap where i had set it & torqued the nut (20Nm and 45 degrees).

Buttoned the car back up and before refitting the bumper back on - thought might aswell start it! So doing the usual "Please God!" - turned the key. Started up straight away - no unusual noises. LOL

Plugged VCDS in and checked MB4 - was 0 is now -0.6. Which I'll leave for a few days and then deal with it.

One thing I did notice afterward is that the pointer has moved to the right. No more than 4 or so mm. Certainly hasn't gone past the rear plate (the one that has the slot in it). Now the Haynes manual says upto 5mm is acceptable. I did check the tab\hook and it is in the hole (in the block) properly.

Is the movement of the pointer ok? I had the engine running for about 5 mins - idle and a few runs up to 2-3k and seemed fine.

Or do I need to strip it back down again and get the pointer bang in the middle?

Cheers

Dibs