Autoglym SRP - Protection?

jq_quint

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hi,

I used to use the 3 stage clean/polish/wax system from Meguires for my ming blue A6 and it used to come up the nuts..

But since changing to a black A4 this system really doesn't do the car justice..and i'm left with hologram marks etc after polish & wax..

I've since purchased some autoglm SRP and this seems to apply great and leaves no holograms..but i'm uncertain exactly what wax protection to use after thye SRP to best suit black as its evident that different polishes 'appear' to react different to defferent colours..

Any advice appreciated..
Thanks
J.
 
If you want wax, P21s (or R222 as it is now called).

If you want long lasting protection (sealent) go for Extra Gloss Protection. The SRP and EGP twins are used by pros and n00bs alike and give very good results. Both are very easy to get hold of (Halfrauds) as well.
 
Oh and SRP is full of fillers, which is why it looks better than the Megs kit for now. These will eventually wash out and the swirls will reappear.
 
On a tight budget, a coat of Poorboy's Natty's Blue Paste Wax after every coat of SRP will lock in the finish for up to 8 weeks and produce a cracking wet look finish. If you want more durability then look to better quality waxes at higher price points... Blackfire Midnight Sun would look ace on your colour, and would give almost twice as much durability. :icon_thumright:
 
I tried Auto Glym's Hi Definition wax last winter and it gave fantastic protection over the winter period. In the next few weeks I am going to reapply for the spring / summer season, but resilience has been better than anything else I've ever used.

Not a black car I'll grant you, but after a wash / clay / polish / seal / wax I got these results on my Dolphin grey last year. Camera phone shots, so apologies, not the best:

IMG_0463.JPG


IMG_0462.JPG
 
I tried Auto Glym's Hi Definition wax last winter and it gave fantastic protection over the winter period. In the next few weeks I am going to reapply for the spring / summer season, but resilience has been better than anything else I've ever used.

Not a black car I'll grant you, but after a wash / clay / polish / seal / wax I got these results on my Dolphin grey last year. Camera phone shots, so apologies, not the best:

IMG_0463.JPG


IMG_0462.JPG

What items did you use for that wash process mate? Looks like a good job there! And did you use a DA?
 
Very nice, but direct sunlight/xenon light shots are required to see the finish ;) Otherwise that's just cheating!
 
If you want long lasting protection (sealent) go for Extra Gloss Protection. The SRP and EGP twins are used by pros and n00bs alike and give very good results. Both are very easy to get hold of (Halfrauds) as well.

Just reading this, I have both of the above, and I also have a pot of Swissvax 'Best of Show' also, can I use all 3 one after another or is that overkill?
 
Not at all JoJo, BOS is a very nice wax. Wash, SRP, EGP, BOS.

Cool, might finally get that effect I was after... I've done the BOS stuff twice on my car, as it was detailed just over a year ago, but it doesn't quite shine as much as I like it, and I know the EGP stuff really brings out a good finish. I shall have to spend a good few hours when the weather warms up. Cheers.
 
What items did you use for that wash process mate? Looks like a good job there! And did you use a DA?

I initially damped the car down with a hose/fine spray nozzle, then again gently sprayed the car with the jet wash on low power setting with auto glym pressure washer mix so that it foamed and sat on the car (to lift the dirt). I then gently rinsed the car with the pressure washer before using the 2 bucket method to wash it (using Megs Gold Class).

Then I clay barred it with Meguiars Clay Bar starter kit from Halfrauds.

Then Auto Glym:
1) Super Resin Polish
2) Extra Gloss Protection (2 coats)
3) Hi Def Wax (2 coats)

Ever since it's been washed weekly with Megs Gold Class shampoo, and topped up with their NXT detailer.

Appreciate the above is not the valeters preferred approach, all done by hand, no lights, no paint depth gauges, no machine polishers, just elbow grease and love!

As I have hefty time constraints / a wife / other hobbies doing this twice a year comes under the banner of exercise / guilt!! I hate car cleaning these days as in winter its all dirt and in summer it's all flies. This is just protecting the asset really and trying to take the weekly pain out of it. I'm too lazy to make an exact science of it!
 
Cool, might finally get that effect I was after... I've done the BOS stuff twice on my car, as it was detailed just over a year ago, but it doesn't quite shine as much as I like it, and I know the EGP stuff really brings out a good finish. I shall have to spend a good few hours when the weather warms up. Cheers.

The shine really comes from a decent polishing stage, JoJo. Spend time on the SRP side of things and you will be rewarded with a better shine. Alternatively, use Lime Prime that has less fillers and more cut = better finish.

I initially damped the car down with a hose/fine spray nozzle, then again gently sprayed the car with the jet wash on low power setting with auto glym pressure washer mix so that it foamed and sat on the car (to lift the dirt). I then gently rinsed the car with the pressure washer before using the 2 bucket method to wash it (using Megs Gold Class).

Then I clay barred it with Meguiars Clay Bar starter kit from Halfrauds.

Then Auto Glym:
1) Super Resin Polish
2) Extra Gloss Protection (2 coats)
3) Hi Def Wax (2 coats)

Ever since it's been washed weekly with Megs Gold Class shampoo, and topped up with their NXT detailer.

Appreciate the above is not the valeters preferred approach, all done by hand, no lights, no paint depth gauges, no machine polishers, just elbow grease and love!

As I have hefty time constraints / a wife / other hobbies doing this twice a year comes under the banner of exercise / guilt!! I hate car cleaning these days as in winter its all dirt and in summer it's all flies. This is just protecting the asset really and trying to take the weekly pain out of it. I'm too lazy to make an exact science of it!

There is nothing wrong with the above, what so ever. As far as I am concerned, if more people did this, I would not have recently spent 13 evenings bringing my 8 year old car's paint back to how it should be.

Well done!
 
thanks for the tips guys...

Just out of interest is there any particular product which helps reduce stone chips also?
 
Apart from plastic cover type products (perma guard etc), sadly not. But with the expense and lack lustre of said products, I would usually suggest paying for a respray of the affected panels every year or two.
 
So i've been kitted out now for the last week or so with some SRP and EGP and on both attempts at an application I have struggled to remove the EGP without leaving some shadowing effect..?

The SRP comes off great and looks great...

The EGP goes on fine and seems to wipe off ok but leaves these 'shadow's' that I then have to really polish hard to remove...? this can't be right..and being ebony black they do stand out....

Any tips guys? I'm leaving it for approx 10mins before wiping off, should i do it sooner? or am i applying too soon after SRP?

Any advice appreciated..
Thanks
J
 
When I used to use EGP, I used to let it cure for approx 2 hours before removal. Read the instructions to see what it says. I never had any probs with it. In this weather it may need even longer to dry properly.
 
Hi J.

The shadows are likely to either be holograms or another form of marks/marring.

EGP is a great product for starters, but you MUST ensure that the product is applied in very very very thin layers. If not, you will actually cause more damage to your paint work when you come to take it off as you will end up scrubbing the residues off!

A very small amount should be applied to a microfibre applicator, left to cure for as long as possible and then removed with a microfibre cloth.

HTH

JD
 
When I used to use EGP, I used to let it cure for approx 2 hours before removal. Read the instructions to see what it says. I never had any probs with it. In this weather it may need even longer to dry properly.

I will it leave longer on my next attempt and see if that helps..

Hi J.
A very small amount should be applied to a microfibre applicator, left to cure for as long as possible and then removed with a microfibre cloth.

I think this may be it, I used quite alot actually which by the sounds of it may be the problem, can you reccomend any micro fibre applicator / cloths (I guess would be better than my ripped up old work shirt)..

Thanks Guys
J.
 
Meguirars applicators are perfectly acceptable, as are their towels for removal. These are available from Halfrauds. Or you can visit people like Polished Bliss and I4Detailing.
 
Personally after trying things like Collinite, Werkstatt, Victoria concourse wax, Dodo juice, Zymol, Zaino...i'd never ever part with my cash for any auto glym product, found them utter rubbish in comparison, even the High Definition wax isn't that great a product. Mainstream, mass marketed muck in my personal opinion of course.

Stick with the better products for a better result and stop visiting halfrauds to get a) ripped off and b) a rubbish product.

I understand that not all people can afford things like a great rotary polisher or dual action but there are some cheaper products around like the silverline seen here.... Silverline polisher

With a little more you can get yourself £25 worth of 250ml Menzerna product & Collinite 476s for £15 and do your entire car, properly.

I'm definitely not a professional detailer, but spent 3/4 days on my own car with a rotary & some patience. I'd purchased the rotary along with menzerna and collinite a few good quality cloths from the net and set about doing the car. The rotary is not that hard to use and if you practice on a panel before hand and read up methods on detailingworld.co.uk very very good results can be achieved.

Just some of the Products used (cloths were in my pocket, but any good quality microfibers are ok, not cheapo ones from £1 shops though) :

HPIM0319.JPG


One of the bonnet after I'd done some paint correction on it using Menzerna sample kit.

HPIM0246.JPG


Faz's old S3 (rear quater panel - paint corrected)

S1035555.JPG4


His bootlid

S1035569.JPG


Everytime I used SRP/EGP I was left disappointed with the results, I mean really disappointed. A few weeks after my hard graft with the SRP/EGP duo and the car looked worse than when I'd started....WTF??

I knew that there must be a way to get the finish better, with less Holograms visible over the whole car. No matter how I applied it, how careful I was I could never ever get the finish I was looking for from the autoglym range, so I set about looking for alternatives, You have nothing to loose really, you do need to be careful not to burn the paint/plastics, but watch loads of tutorials on youtube, there are DVD's with step by steps and ask advice over on detailingworld and you should be fine, I was.

G
 
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BTW both Collinite 476s or FinishKare 1000p have been product of the year on detailing world. 476s is very very durable and will outlast EGP by months, so if you are looking for a low maintenance wax then 476S is the one. FinishKare is a sealant and I've recently used this on an MG RV8 that I'd detailed, very very good product and is better than 476s. In my opinion of course.

G
 
The point I would make about your comments (as correct in my mind as they are);

A; not everyone (like you have said) has the time or the money to machine polish
B; some do not have the knowledge and/or skill to machine properly, not that it takes a lot once you are use to it
C; once you start machine polishing, this is a slippery slope. You will never be satisfied

The other issue with buying a rotary - how much paint have you removed on the panels above? It is easy to say "buy a cheap rotary and you're laughing" but the skill involved in machine polishing is to create the desired effect, but by removing the least amount of paint possible.

My cousin could machine polish his car this afternoon and achieve a shiny car, but he could have also removed a serious amount of clearcoat.

I am not suggesting you don't know what you are doing (I know how the typed word on forums can come across!) - I am purely making others aware that it is not just a case of buying the kit and gaining perfect results.
 
BTW both Collinite 476s or FinishKare 1000p have been product of the year on detailing world. 476s is very very durable and will outlast EGP by months, so if you are looking for a low maintenance wax then 476S is the one. FinishKare is a sealant and I've recently used this on an MG RV8 that I'd detailed, very very good product and is better than 476s. In my opinion of course.

G

This is the other wonderful thing about detailing - it is such a personal thing :icon_thumright: I hate 476. I find it greatly reduces the look of the paintwork and makes it appear very dull and lack lustre. But then again, I am lucky enough to have the time to reapply waxes every month, with access to a lit, roomy, heated garage - others will, of course, not!

FK however is superb. I have very intention of moving away from Chem Guys Blitz when the bottles are finished.

Dodo Lime Prime, again, superb product. The results when used correctly are astounding. However, I feel their waxes are seriously lacking. I would much prefer BOS/Onyx from Swissvax or Zymol's Carbon.

But again, prices, personal experiences and availability always differs :)
 
I did use a paint depth gauge, sorry should have mentioned that "my bad". Paint depth gauges are expensive but there are people who are willing to read your car for you over on detailingworld, as long as you live local to eachother! This is how I did it. I removed 2 Microns of clear coat on mine, that is all.

Like I said I'm no professional but results speak for themselves. Anyone can learn anything, polishing is no exception to that rule. I learned. Faz made a mistake and burned the paint off his bumper when I left him unattended with the rotary, but a lesson learned. A bit of common sense goes a long way.

So...to answer your points.

a) Fair enough, but I'm assuming that the people who post here are looking for good results, and are more enthusiast based hence the visit to the forum in the first place....If I was "normal" then I'd not even think about visiting a forum about Audi's or more specifically my S3. There are probably (not fact) more Audi owners that don't visit here than there are that do!
b) Learn....simples!
c) You have to be, I've plenty of clear coat to play with on my car. It's actually seen some paint, so over 300 (yes 300) microns over the front end. If it needs doing again then I wont hesitate (pre reading it first of course). If it's that bad and I've not much to play with in terms of pain thickness, then I'll save for a respray.

G
 
This is the other wonderful thing about detailing - it is such a personal thing :icon_thumright: I hate 476. I find it greatly reduces the look of the paintwork and makes it appear very dull and lack lustre. But then again, I am lucky enough to have the time to reapply waxes every month, with access to a lit, roomy, heated garage - others will, of course, not!

FK however is superb. I have very intention of moving away from Chem Guys Blitz when the bottles are finished.

Dodo Lime Prime, again, superb product. The results when used correctly are astounding. However, I feel their waxes are seriously lacking. I would much prefer BOS/Onyx from Swissvax or Zymol's Carbon.

But again, prices, personal experiences and availability always differs :)

LOL 476s lacklustre? Each have our own opinion clearly yours is different from the vast majority on detailingworld. :)

Again for the money Supernatural is a very very good wax. @ £145 BOS would be a good product, it's made my Swissvax (previously Swissol) and as such R&D goes a long way, along with years and years of perfecting the best waxes. It's considerably more than supernatural though and for that reason, keeping with "cheaper" products I suggested 476S.

Nothing lacklustre about this picture...directly after 1 layer of collinite.

HPIM0331.JPG


As you have said though...each to their own!

G
 
Haha, no one is normal on a forum, G, you're correct ;) But there is still a difference in my mind. Those (like you and I) that will spend more on our detailing supplies, than a flight to the USA!! And those that do want a better than the Polish (Polish from Poland, not polish before sealing and waxing ;)) car wash clean, but who don't want to shell out £££ for detailing. Those are the people that AG aim at with their brands, most of the time. And let's be honest, you really get what you pay for. People like this will spend a few hours on the car, once a month, if that.
 
LOL 476s lacklustre? Each have our own opinion clearly yours is different from the vast majority on detailingworld. :)

Again for the money Supernatural is a very very good wax. @ £145 BOS would be a good product, it's made my Swissvax (previously Swissol) and as such R&D goes a long way, along with years and years of perfecting the best waxes. It's considerably more than supernatural though and for that reason, keeping with "cheaper" products I suggested 476S.

Nothing lacklustre about this picture...directly after 1 layer of collinite.

HPIM0331.JPG


As you have said though...each to their own!

G

Haha, could do this all day ;) More supplies of 476s for you if I don't like it . . . ;)
 
FK 1000p for the cheapo! ;)

You have collinite you are gonna throw out? Loads left?

G
 
Haha, I like that banter! Sadly not, it was given to a friend to coat his wheels as he believes it's heat proof and cheaper than Poorboys wheel sealent.

Lol.
 
Hehe...banter is always healthy! We'd get on great if you lived locally me thinks. Comparing products annorack style! :p

Love it.

G
 
BTW Z8 is the best product I've used to date, along with Victoria concourse wax on my own car. All after a coat of good ole colly though.

G
 
Mystery is not one I have tried, I know a couple of the V6 Clio boys have. Stunning results so I'm led to believe!
 
Mr G / JD09,

Thanks for the colourful debate guys...

Oneday I may try the polisher (I do actually have one but only used for sanding) process, but sounds sad, I actually enjoy getting close up by hand with the paint work..

I have no preference to autoglym or other..I do spend about 3 hours 'every' week cleaning the car so do want the best for my car..

I will give it one more weekend with the autoglym products I have, but applied differently, with better cloths..

Failing that I'll be back on here after alternatives (maybe start with the items you both listed above) and i'll keep the AG for the wife's zafira ! lol...

Thanks
J.
 
Right then boys,

Just applied Autoglym EGP again, this time with an applicator, made all the difference, I think previous 'rag' was just allowing me to apply a thin enough layer...
Much better removal,,,so thanks guys for the tip..

However, whilst shopping for applicator pads I came across some dodo juice detailer....and ordered (off ebay)

Well it came this morning and HOW AMAZING....(well in comparison with the egp).

This stuff is just well, can't really put it into words....

What does it provide? Is it a sealant? What other dodo products should I use?

I'm thinking of keeping SRP (as it still great filler)
then a dodo wax (what ever you guys suggest)
then the dodo detailer...

does this sound ok?
 
DoDo juice red mist by any chance?

I know my personal preference would be to put the Autoglym in the bin and buy some decent products, like I said though, thats my preference. I want a perfect finish to start with before I apply waxes or sealants.

As you aren't wanting to go that far with the car, use the SRP or why not try some Zaino? If what you are trying to achieve is filling the scratches/swirls so they are less visible try this....http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/zaino/zaino-z-5-pro-show-car-polish/prod_468.html. Then apply a sealant or wax followed by a spritz of Zaino Z8 or your red mist.

G