Audi Sound System

Trevolly

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Afternoon all.

Could I ask if anyone would know the layout of the speakers for the Audi Sound System package (where they are in the car). I read online that it has 10 speakers, just wondered where they're positioned.

I have searched on forum but all I can seem to find is Sound comparisons for the Audi Sound System and the B & O System.

Many thanks.
 
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2 in the front A pillars, 1 in the centre of the dash in front of the mmi screen. 1 in each of the front doors, 2 each in the rear doors and a small sub in the spare wheel well in the boot

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B&O is 720 watts peak output *** is 140 watts I think

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Thanks for replying @airbus319 So there is only 1 speaker in the front doors? I had to remove the speaker grills by the front door handles and was worried to see a space where a speaker might be. B&O speaker space?

IMG 2128
 
Thanks for replying @airbus319 So there is only 1 speaker in the front doors? I had to remove the speaker grills by the front door handles and was worried to see a space where a speaker might be. B&O speaker space?

View attachment 105528
Yep, the standard speaker system is dreadful btw. I'm currently retrofitting b&o but it's quite involved


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Thanks for the info mate. Asked Audi and they didn't even know the speaker layout in the ***.
 
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I'm adding B&O mid range speaker to the front doors. I think the *** system sounds good, but just needs to be setup correctly. BT input does, however, sound tiny.

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Yep, the standard speaker system is dreadful btw. I'm currently retrofitting b&o but it's quite involved

Hi airbus319 - regarding sound, do you know the dimensions of the speakers/drivers for S3 Sportback FL? I'm keeping head unit and I'm interested driver upgrade options. Thanks, Flat_Bicky.
 
I'm adding B&O mid range speaker to the front doors. I think the *** system sounds good, but just needs to be setup correctly. BT input does, however, sound tiny.

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Was thinking of doing something similar myself. What does it involve, and what sort of budget would I need ?
 
Was thinking of doing something similar myself. What does it involve, and what sort of budget would I need ?
Need the speakers which are pretty cheap on eBay, some wire to connect to door woofer and the grille that covers it (the one with holes). Going to see if I can just drill out holes.

The grilles are more expensive then the speakers lol...of course.

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@Trevolly, the one that covers the speaker on the door card. The version that comes with the *** system is fully blocked and solid on the back, whereas the B&O system has the holes to allow the sound to travel.

91686-0f1860f9389ff14c3ac2c8812fdc6401.jpg
 
@Trevolly, the one that covers the speaker on the door card. The version that comes with the *** system is fully blocked and solid on the back, whereas the B&O system has the holes to allow the sound to travel.

91686-0f1860f9389ff14c3ac2c8812fdc6401.jpg
Is that blocked? of just the foam backing? I wonder if it's the door card or the door itself. I'd imagine the facelift speakers won't be any different to the PFL, Audi are reasonably lazy that way but then again nothing would surprise me
 
Yeh it is blocked. The speaker grills you are talking about (with the holes) are £10.69 each. I ordered one last week (drivers side) from the parts dept on this website. The part number is 8V3035410A 4PK. Hope this helps
 
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Oh I was checking some other sites and they were about 50USD! Thanks for the part # and info.

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Little reminder.. The front bass speakers run in parallel with the front tweeters, you can't just hook up an additional speaker in parallel without breaking the ohm laws, the only way without additional amp is to hook the mid in series with the tweeters and keeping the bass in parallel, but it would cut the tweeters' power in half..

So far, I've replaced the front center mid and the rear tweeters with B&O, and because they're much more sensitive than the ***'s, the sound stage already improved by quite a bit on the high and mid. And I also have the B&O mid/tweeters and speaker grills sitting at home for the ***, and have the OEM connectors on order so that I don't have to cut any wires in case I don't like the sound. But I think adding the mid should make the system pretty balanced, and personally, I'm happy with the bass, if I dial it up to like 50% of the volume, I can feel the bass on the driver's seat and the interior mirror starts to wobbles too and it's pretty punchy, don't really understand why people saying there's not enough bass... All I need right now is to find a way to run the tweeter wire to the front door, will be testing it when I get back home from New York next week...

PS If you want to replace the *** tweeters with B&O, you'll have to add capacitor to the B&Os too since there's no crossover on the *** amp like the B&O, I'll be running the tweeters crossed off in series with the mid at full range, coz I couldn't find a good way to cross off the mid with it in series connection...
 
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Larbel, some very good information on limitations when you add or replace speakers with different impedance values and loads to a designed system.
 
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Little reminder.. The front bass speakers run in parallel with the front tweeters, you can't just hook up an additional speaker in parallel without breaking the ohm laws, the only way without additional amp is to hook the mid in series with the tweeters and keeping the bass in parallel, but it would cut the tweeters' power in half..

So question for you Larbel, in your other post you were saying, if I used the B&O mid and woofer and moved the rear tweeter to the front, everything should basically work correctly, following proper ohms info with the *** system? I have an extra amp that I could use, however didn't really want to get that involved as I just want a little more mid clarity from the system.
 
Very useful info Larbel and rcnacura - thanks for your advice :rockwoot:
 
So question for you Larbel, in your other post you were saying, if I used the B&O mid and woofer and moved the rear tweeter to the front, everything should basically work correctly, following proper ohms info with the *** system? I have an extra amp that I could use, however didn't really want to get that involved as I just want a little more mid clarity from the system.

Depends on what your goals are.. the default *** front channel is 1.6 ohms and maybe 50w max...

So option 1 is putting the 4 ohms B&O or rear 4 ohms *** tweeter upfront with the 4 ohms B&O mid plus the 8 ohms B&O bass that would keep the front channel at 1.6 ohms which would be fine. But I'd assume the bass might be taking a big hit going from 2 ohms to 8 ohms... Plus the B&O is rated at 100w max so not sure if the *** amp would push it nicely with so little front channel power...

Option 2 is what I'm gonna do since I'm happy with the front bass and just wanting to add some mid, so the B&O tweeter and mid in series connection while keeping the *** bass in parallel which would also make it 1.6 ohms.

Third option is I guess if you're feeling a lucky.. I know several people has added the B&O mid to the *** just by tapping into the front bass.. That would make the front channel 1.143 ohms, but those guys are saying it's working just fine.. The stock amp should be constantly overheating at that output, I'd imagine it's just matter of time before frying it, but hey, who knows right?
 
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isn't it better going via non OEM speakers and amplifier?

we have 2 8V cars, one with B&O and the other one with ***.

The difference isn't IMO so noticeable to invest in B&O speakers.

In other cars, like A4 or A5 the difference is huge.

I repeat, IMHO.
 
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isn't it better going via non OEM speakers and amplifier?

we have 2 8V cars, one with B&O and the other one with ***.

The difference isn't IMO so noticeable to invest in B&O speakers.

In other cars, like A4 or A5 the difference is huge.

I repeat, IMHO.

My original goal was just to direct swap the speakers and keeping it simple since I was mostly happy with ***, but it just got more and more complicated as thing goes... And I'm just too lazy to reconfig everything if aftermarket...
 
So I think I found a simple solution to getting the speakers working without too much extra trouble.

Basically get two of these mini amps (as big as a cell phone and was thinking to put in the rear of door where there is enough space from the door panel), mount directly in the door, pulling power from the door module, then hook up the mid and bass independently.

I'm assuming the 2Ω and 4Ω speakers should work okay with the extra power, and this would lessen any strain on the *** internal amp. The stock 8Ω 10W tweeter would still run off of the stock *** amp.

Thoughts?

DS18 CANDY-MICRO2 320W 2x80 Watts RMS 2 Channel Full Range Micro Amplifier for Car/Motorcycle/ATV
https://amzn.com/B0171WSPOC
 
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So I think I found a simple solution to getting the speakers working without too much extra trouble.

Basically get two of these mini amps (as big as a cell phone and was thinking to put in the rear of door where there is enough space from the door panel), mount directly in the door, pulling power from the door module, then hook up the mid and bass independently.

I'm assuming the 2Ω and 4Ω speakers should work okay with the extra power, and this would lessen any strain on the *** internal amp. The stock 8Ω 10W tweeter would still run off of the stock *** amp.

Thoughts?

DS18 CANDY-MICRO2 320W 2x80 Watts RMS 2 Channel Full Range Micro Amplifier for Car/Motorcycle/ATV
https://amzn.com/B0171WSPOC


Hmmm... The DS18 amp looks to be 2 ohms at best, with the 4ohms mid and 2ohms bass it will be 1.3ohms and you'll risk frying the DS18 then... unless you want to leave the *** tweeter and bass alone and just add the B&O mid with the amp...
 
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Hmmm... The DS18 amp looks to be 2 ohms at best, with the 4ohms mid and 2ohms bass it will be 1.3ohms and you'll risk frying the DS18 then... unless you want to leave the *** tweeter and bass alone and just add the B&O mid with the amp...
Hmm, in that case I could just use a 1 channel mini amp (currently have laying round the house) that is rated 4ohms and could power just the mid. Still waiting on the speakers to arrive, but would be nice to get this working, however, like you, this is quite the under taking... Note to self for next vehicle purchase, get the upgraded stereo system.

Its funny to me tho, when I listen to the radio or use the BT connection, the sound produced is tiny, but when I listen to music using my android system plugged I to the 3.5mm jack, it sounds amazing. Think the radio/bt input just needs better equalization to get the same sound to be produced. Tested with the same song and literal world of difference.

Thanks for the advice!

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Hmm, in that case I could just use a monoblock amp (currently have laying round the house) that is rated 4ohms and could power just the mid. Still waiting on the speakers to arrive, but would be nice to get this working, however, like you, this is quite the under taking... Note to self for next vehicle purchase, get the upgraded stereo system.

Its funny to me tho, when I listen to the radio or use the BT connection, the sound produced is tiny, but when I listen to music using my android system plugged I to the 3.5mm jack, it sounds amazing. Think the radio/bt input just needs better equalization to get the same sound to be produced. Tested with the same song and literal world of difference.

Thanks for the advice!

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Ya, music sources play a major role, just use the SD card, BT as of now is still way behind in music playback quality...
 
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Hi folks,
I am going to carry out the retrofit footwell lights on my 2014 Sline Sportback and looking to the future I wanted to add the *** sub and centre speaker.
When I had some trim off I wanted to run the sub wiring, I know it's not important however I wanted to run the stock wire colour, does anyone know the cable colours for these?
 
Thanks Tim,
I've had a look at those, been following your mods and they will defo be put to use.
I'm going to purchase some cable and as I said I want to run factory colours if anyone that has Audi Sound System I'd appreciate a photo close up of the sub connector.
 
I might further help you bro... not 100% sure, but let me know your car model, make year and will give it a shot ;)
 
Thanks Martin, it's a 2014 A3 Sline Sportback.
According to my info:
+ Lead:
T8j/9 ---> 1,5mm2 (white/gray) -->T2iv/2
- Lead:
T8j/13 --> 1,5mm2 (blue/gray) --->T2iv/1

where T8j are at the backside of the J794 = Control Unit for Central Electronics (a.k.a. MMI Unit)
and T2iv are the connectors of the Subwoofer (R211)
 
Outstanding Martin thank you, I'm not overlay concerned about the front center speaker as it is easy to trace the cable in future however I think I'll buy the correct colours for the sub. A bit ocd but hey
 
Yeh it is blocked. The speaker grills you are talking about (with the holes) are £10.69 each. I ordered one last week (drivers side) from the parts dept on this website. The part number is 8V3035410A 4PK. Hope this helps

Hi!
Just seen this post as I am looking to replace the standard speakers and add a 3 way component install with 5 channel amp. I tried looking for the grills online but they seem to vary between Sportback and saloon? I need the ones for the saloon drivers and front passenger. Grateful if you can forward me the contact details for the parts department who supplied yours. :thumbs up:

Kind regards,

David :icon thumright:
 
Ciao ragazzi, qualcuno ha messo i medi B&O sul sistema A / S / S? Ho trovato un cavo a Y che utilizza il cavo originale che va al woofer anteriore e poi si divide in due, in modo da ottenere sia il woofer che il mid B&O. Cosa ne pensi? Varrebbe la pena installare un crossover? L'unica cosa che mi lascia perplesso è che il mezzo ha un'impedenza di 4 ohm mentre il woofer di 2 ohm e non so se è un problema ...