Audi S3 - Stroker Big Turbo build.

g60leigh

Registered User

Scullies

Registered User
Today was clutch install day.

Was waiting for the flywheel friction grip to arrive as I felt its best to use a new one, rather then use the old one.

The CM 850 series comes with the "torque plate" as part of the kit.
Reused ARP bolts, EKagrip friction disk is installed behind flywheel. Bolts installed with loctite on the thread and ARP lube under the bolt head.
Torque'd to 110nm - (just over 81ftls)

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Installed a used pilot bearing into the crank. It doesn't get used but it makes lining up the clutch easier when using the alignment tool.

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Close up

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Fiber clutch disc goes first. The disc has a sticker on the other side to indicate which is the flywheel side.

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Close up.

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Next is the ninja star thingy.

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Then its the second ceramic disc. You can see the sticker on this disc.

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Close up

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Then its the pressure plate.
Bolts installed with loctite on the threads and ARP lube under the bolt head.
Torque'd to 32nm - (just under 24 ftlb)

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Some side pics.

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StaceyS3

Registered User
Looking good Darren.

You'll love the clutch and takes some getting used to.....on/off but fck me that thing will never slip

Glad I've got mine but I don't seem to be briskly pulling out of junctions like I used to, either wait for a gap and pull out sensible or it's a full on launch
 

Scullies

Registered User
Got my TB fitted with a 3.5" Pegasus clamp.

I have no idea if the TB is still going to work after welding the clamp onto the TB.
I did ask the guys to put the TB in water while they welded the clamp on.
So my concerns are if the electronics cover is water tight and if TB would get damaged by the current passing through it from welding.
It didn't get super hot, as after he had finished welding it I could pick it up out of the water.

I guess time will tell if this was a fail or not.

It still needs to be cleaned and smooth out the welding.

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Gops

Badger 5 Edition
VCDS Map User
Looking good Darren.

You'll love the clutch and takes some getting used to.....on/off but fck me that thing will never slip

Glad I've got mine but I don't seem to be briskly pulling out of junctions like I used to, either wait for a gap and pull out sensible or it's a full on launch

Whats the pedal feel like mate? I quite like the OEM feel to the tuffty-clutch setup but its in the back of my mind that i need to find something abit more robust for those spirited moments.
 

Scullies

Registered User
I bit of progress this week.
Shims arrived, I only needed 4 but ordered extra sizes just in case.

shims.jpg


The dishwasher cleans parts very nicely

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Gearbox going back together now. Need to fit the retainer springs on both the output shafts. Cant find my pliers at the moment as I'm busy moving house, so they have probably been packed away :(

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Need to sort out the other half of the casing. Have to drill the holes for the shaft support and the case reinforcement bracket.
 

Scullies

Registered User
Had an "interesting" weekend.
Got the box all back together and ready to fit to the engine.
Had a mate over to help pop the box on.
Well..................its turns out that I completely forgot that the bell housing from a 2.8 v6 4motion is not the same as the a 1.8t.

Took a moment to realize that the v6 bell housing was not going to fit the 1.8 block.

So had to strip down the box again, strip down the S3 box. Pull all the bearing races and shims out the v6 bell housing, fit them to the 1.8 bell housing and recheck all the preloads. It was a fun night :confounded:

Engine and box is not back in the car.
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Last night I tidied up the wire harness, a lot of tape had fallen off the wires.
Slam panel was fitted and all hoses were connected up.

Waiting for my DP and midpipe to come back from Zircotec, then its time to get the POS registered.
 

<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
Moderator
Well..................its turns out that I completely forgot that the bell housing from a 2.8 v6 4motion is not the same as the a 1.8t.

Took a moment to realize that the v6 bell housing was not going to fit the 1.8 block.

roflcopter.gif


<tuffty/>
 

Scullies

Registered User
With summer moving along now, I took the week off work to pay some attention to Bumblebitch.
Annual registration expired 5 months ago, so I have to get it looking as OEM as possible.

Stock wheels and lifted, a bit to much in the front but its just for a day.

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Had to find the engine plastics and airbox, they were under a small sand dune.

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So I washed the car and the engine bay.

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sand and dust free

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Since I was in the mood, I removed the glass pack from the exhaust system and then painted the exhaust as the new piece was polished stainless steel and Mr Reg Inspector doesn't like any kind of bling bling.

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I think I like the black tips,

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So tomorrow is going to be the most nerve wrecking day of the year, again !!
 

Ash-S3

Registered User
First outing to work and it didn't break down.

FYI - The clutchmasters FX850 is not traffic friendly, I repeat, NOT TRAFFIC FRIENDLY !!!

View attachment 106515

Great to hear bud! Car is looking really neat love it. I'm sure that clutch will take a lot of getting use to but at least it can take the punch.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Sam_

Down under
I got the FX850SS (Super Single) because it's meant to still have massive clamping force (not far off the twin plate) and also wear slower. I am expecting it to still be switch-like though. Problem is now the weakness will just be somewhere else in the drivetrain haha :)
 

Scullies

Registered User
I got the FX850SS (Super Single) because it's meant to still have massive clamping force (not far off the twin plate) and also wear slower. I am expecting it to still be switch-like though. Problem is now the weakness will just be somewhere else in the drivetrain haha :)

Yeah, I was speaking to Mike from Stevebilt about the clutch options. He said the super single setup is a hard clutch to use in traffic but great for drags.
I remember thinking to myself, WTF !!! when I received the clutch and saw how thick the spring material was on the pressure plate.

Its does feel solid when it engages but I could have just been so use to the old worn out Clutch Net 6 paddle setup.
 

StaceyS3

Registered User
Sorry to disappoint but mines not really eased a great deal after 4000 miles, you do though get a bit better at driving with it, although it still occasionally bites me lol
 

<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
Moderator
but I could have just been so use to the old worn out Clutch Net 6 paddle setup

I would say its more that you haven't used it in a while and you are used to other clutches... I get this transitioning between the A2 and the S3... the S3 catches me out occasionally because the A2's clutch is so light

<tuffty/>
 

badger5

www.badger5.co.uk
Site Sponsor
Yeah, I was speaking to Mike from Stevebilt about the clutch options. He said the super single setup is a hard clutch to use in traffic but great for drags.
I remember thinking to myself, WTF !!! when I received the clutch and saw how thick the spring material was on the pressure plate.

Its does feel solid when it engages but I could have just been so use to the old worn out Clutch Net 6 paddle setup.
poor old plastic master cylinder!
 

StaceyS3

Registered User
Nice direct port meth

TBH I think it is truely a brutal clutch and can't be compared to a single, Si's mk1 runs the 7.25" fx725 twin plate and this is even noticeably easier than my fx850.

It does obviously improve the more used to it you get though
 

Scullies

Registered User
I got round to fitting this MOD4 direct port injection thingy.

Nozzles are number 0.5 and are said to flow 30ml - still to be tested though.

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The spaghetti junction installed.

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I have also relocated the nozzle that was near the TB and fitted it to the turbo outlet. 2nd nozzle is still installed after the FMIC.
Think I might order a AN type nozzle holder and run a solid stainless line for the nozzle on the turbo outlet, because you know turbos like to melt things.

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FYI - TECH TIP OF THE DAY

Don't install the nozzle for the 1st cylinder directly in the center of the base of the runner.
When you fit the manifold the nozzle holder will touch the coolant hard line and prevent you from installing the manifold.

Install the nozzle towards the 2nd cylinder or further up the runner.

I had to get the hole welded up and drill and tap a new hole.

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Scullies

Registered User
My previous boost pipe setup was 2.5" from turbo all the way to the TB, with 3" FMIC inlet and outlet.
I have always wondered why the setup was SOOOOO laggy. Looking at other big turbo graphs and feeling disappointed.
Since then I have changed the piping from the FMIC outlet to the TB, to 3.5" piping.

Below is the result of some logging.
Left is the log of 3.5" piping, the middle and right are logs of the 2.5" piping.

boost vs rpm.PNG


As you can see, after changing the piping to 3.5" I have gained about 600rpm in spool up. This is using the 1 bar measuring point (2 bar from MAP sensor)

Now I'm wondering if its worth trying 3.0" pipe from turbo to FMIC inlet.
 
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