Audi s3 stage 2+ Engine oil

Compkiler

Registered User
Your best bet is to ring AMD or LVS racing and just ask them tbh mate. That way you can't really go wrong.
 

S3Alex

Rarely neutral
Gold Supporter
Motul 300V and Miller Nanodrive are the big hitting ester oils but also big prices.

Most will find that Castrol Edge or Shell Helix are fine and when my engines been in bits after running Stg3 on those oils everything was still within original tolerances.

I think frequent changes are key.


I do use Motul 300V now but with good reason.
 

Smirky

Registered User
Motul 300V and Miller Nanodrive are the big hitting ester oils but also big prices.

Most will find that Castrol Edge or Shell Helix are fine and when my engines been in bits after running Stg3 on those oils everything was still within original tolerances.

I think frequent changes are key.


I do use Motul 300V now but with good reason.
What motul 300v do you run Alex ? When you click above it takes you to 10w40?
 

leshkin

Hold my beer...
VCDS Map User
What Alex said - frequent oil changes are the key to keeping things healthy on the inside.

Some people obsess about brands, but a good quality fully synthetic oil with correct VW spec will do just fine. I used Motul 10w30 VW spec 504/507 oil during my last oil change - the oil change kit from Opie oils came in handy.
 

S3_Sanni

Active Member
VCDS Map User
Thanks for the replies guys. I currently am using millers 5w40 nanodrive in mine but compared to what i used at stage 1 (Castrol edge 5w30) oil consumption and drivability wise there is no difference. Although some do say at stage 2+ 5w30 oil will be burnt more quicker?
 

leshkin

Hold my beer...
VCDS Map User
Hm, I haven't noticed any change in oil consumption since Stg2+.
 

s3_trev

Northern Ireland
Quantum Long Life as far as I know! I have a good relationship with my VAG specialist and I trust them to put good oil in.
 

Smirky

Registered User

Gazwould

Registered User
Any Ester oil as listed here

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-953-ester-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx#Filter=[EntityIDs=@(54)@*ava=0]&

Despite the Ester synthetics category they aren't pure 100% top group 5 Ester oil basestock , so a bit of marketing going on .

Instead they are either group 4 and 5 or
3 , 4 and 5 , all have between 15-20% group 5 Ester .

The different groups have different properties so the oil becomes more of a complete performer.

That's why 504.00 / 507.00 is so good because it is made from groups 3 , 4 and 5.
 

nooone

Registered User
504 spec synthetic.
Its in the manual, it helps minimise buildup deposits over 502 spec. TFSI can be a gunky system.
2+ should not determine the oil, just change it a little more regularly and let the engine warm up before you flog it.
 

S3Alex

Rarely neutral
Gold Supporter
504 spec synthetic.
Its in the manual, it helps minimise buildup deposits over 502 spec. TFSI can be a gunky system.
2+ should not determine the oil, just change it a little more regularly and let the engine warm up before you flog it.

Exactly as I said too.

Re gunky TFSi's..... Which area were you thinking of?
 

nooone

Registered User
The recirc / PCV and intake seem to get the worst of it, I'm tempted to get my intake walnut blasted as it has 110k kms on it (70k miles).
Seems to be fairly uncommon here, Australia was brought up on Japanese cars and NA 6 and 8 cylinder cars.

There may not be much difference between 502 and 504 otherwise, but anything to stop the gunk is a good idea IMO.
 

Gazwould

Registered User
The recirc / PCV and intake seem to get the worst of it, I'm tempted to get my intake walnut blasted as it has 110k kms on it (70k miles).
Seems to be fairly uncommon here, Australia was brought up on Japanese cars and NA 6 and 8 cylinder cars.

There may not be much difference between 502 and 504 otherwise, but anything to stop the gunk is a good idea IMO.



Believe me there is a big difference between 502 and 504.
 

S3Alex

Rarely neutral
Gold Supporter
The recirc / PCV and intake seem to get the worst of it, I'm tempted to get my intake walnut blasted as it has 110k kms on it (70k miles).
Seems to be fairly uncommon here, Australia was brought up on Japanese cars and NA 6 and 8 cylinder cars.

There may not be much difference between 502 and 504 otherwise, but anything to stop the gunk is a good idea IMO.
It's a very long thread,but the useful parts re valve gunk are here.....


http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/time-for-a-build-thread-big-turbo.106134/page-30

Page 30 as that link seems a bit flaky if you use Tapatalk...works fine on a normal browser.
 

S3Alex

Rarely neutral
Gold Supporter
Thanks, always up to read some more.

A large coffee or a stiff drink will help.

It's become the car's blog,and all the good and bad bits of the TFSi are in there somewhere.
The direct injection valve gunking issue is common to all direct injection engines,and in short to get rid of it,you have to remove ALL of the ways that engine vapours are fed back into the engine(apart from the Evap breather).

Running extra port injectors will cure it(as in the new version 8V engines),but for our engines,an 8 injector system is only practical with the sort of setup on mine with an aftermarket ECU.

The problem with all of the PCV catch can systems is that they don't bypass all of the engine breathers into the can.
 

Compkiler

Registered User
Hmmmm just curious now this thread been brought to life, what ya reckon the time scale is for a stage 2+ tuned car then?
Every 5k miles or 6 months depending on what comes first?
 

Smirky

Registered User
Hmmmm just curious now this thread been brought to life, what ya reckon the time scale is for a stage 2+ tuned car then?
Every 5k miles or 6 months depending on what comes first?
Intresting I was chatting to my mates dad he has been a mechanic for over 25yrs ,and i was saying I might get the oil done every 5k/6months and he said be careful with the sump plug etc as you can wear the thread something to keep an eye on
 

Gazwould

Registered User
Intresting I was chatting to my mates dad he has been a mechanic for over 25yrs ,and i was saying I might get the oil done every 5k/6months and he said be careful with the sump plug etc as you can wear the thread something to keep an eye on


All the better reason to invest in an oil extractor.
 

Smirky

Registered User
Good call what I might do is suck it out every 6months just change the oil then the following 6 months have oil/filter done by his old man so book gets stamped etc
 

s3_trev

Northern Ireland
5k/6months seems a bit excessive? Ive been doing the 10k/12months cycle since I got my car and never had any issues. Although ive only been stage 2+ for around 6 months now. The 5k service interval sounds more like that of a fully tuned Lancer Evo or something lol.
 

S3Alex

Rarely neutral
Gold Supporter
5k/6months seems a bit excessive? Ive been doing the 10k/12months cycle since I got my car and never had any issues. Although ive only been stage 2+ for around 6 months now. The 5k service interval sounds more like that of a fully tuned Lancer Evo or something lol.

I think each has to choose but 360bhp even isn't far off some Evos
 

s3_trev

Northern Ireland
Yeah thats true Alex. I will mention this to my mechanic and see what his opinion is. I think it probably has a lot to do with how you drive it. Frequent thrashing probably needs more oil changes. At least I would assume that's the way it would work!

Oh, and just looked my last receipt and its "Quantum Longlife III" that was used.
 

Smirky

Registered User
Yeah thats true Alex. I will mention this to my mechanic and see what his opinion is. I think it probably has a lot to do with how you drive it. Frequent thrashing probably needs more oil changes. At least I would assume that's the way it would work!

Oh, and just looked my last receipt and its "Quantum Longlife III" that was used.
With 360hp how can you not frequently thrash it :) and for the minimal cost I think it's worth it for peace of mind
 

Smirky

Registered User
Next time I think I am gonna have the sump off cleaned etc New pick up pipe have seen some shocking photos of gunk/debris in sumps
 

mechanic69

Registered User
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Gold Supporter
Millers nanotech for me
 

Smirky

Registered User

mechanic69

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Gold Supporter

Smirky

Registered User
What's the difference between the 30 and 40 part?
 

Smirky

Registered User

mechanic69

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Gold Supporter
I filled in the oil look up form thing and the millers oil it recommended clearly states for standard spec engine ?

Don't worry about that, theres loads of 2+s on the forum running millers nanotech, search on youtube.
 

s3_trev

Northern Ireland
With 360hp how can you not frequently thrash it :) and for the minimal cost I think it's worth it for peace of mind
Yeah I see your point. And yeah I got the sump cleaned and pickup pipe done at my last service, as like you said some shocking oil pickup pipe photos! :concern:
 

Smirky

Registered User
I assume if I swap oils I.e castrol edge to Miller's nano the oil left in the filter won't do any harm ,mixing oils is ok ?
 
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