Audi S3 "Punisher" 2.1L stroker build, image heavy

[Warsuperior]

AEM 400lph inline pump coming or two and my intank is 265lph already

 

[Warsuperior]

Turbo retailer here who has worked over 20years with different kind of setups suggested that he make me GTW series Garret with 60.8mm compressor and 58 turbine capable of 600hp on gasoline and still great spool. Price is about 1500€ so that is not bad.
Dont ask more, he didnt want to share all specs yet and I understand since they could lose their job to someone else but I trust his judgement, he is highly respected here in Finland.

Also G25-660 there is question will it really push over 600hp as we have seen, Garrett does have bit "bloated" figures or well nto bloated but they dont tell with what compination they pushed the max hp figure out.
I trust Garrett turbos lot since they have at least a guys who go every morning to plan motorsport series turbos. I was also offered Holset Hx40pro but my opinion is that Holsets are big truck engine turbos, not for driving just reliable and high power.

Finally the snow has started to melt here. I can get my A3 under the huge snow mountain

I met also here in Finland a guy who drives 4WD wagon Vw golf mk4, mostly drag races. He has 830hp@7904rpm/773Nm@7088rpm
Its 2.0 20v stroker
Still his car too can be driven daily.

 

[Warsuperior]

Should I get reinforced cambelt crankshaft wheel or would the ARP bolt be enough?
https://www.performancebyie.com/1-8t-20v-timing-belt-gear-dowel-pin-kit-for-tdi-crank


Edit: Actually Im goint to do this when I take my crank to machining, they can install it sametime for cheap

 

[Warsuperior]

About this cambelt lower wheel if you want to make it better cheaper, just drill two holes and put steel pins in them. This is more than enough and tested with 830hp/773Nm at my friends car.
Im just going to order the ARP upgrated bolt and new wheel just to be safe.

Today I acquired new parts:
- AEM 400LPH fuel pump
- 44MM Watercooled wastegate

 

[Warsuperior]

Did the research and @badger5 was right. These camshafts are not to be used with VVT so for now I have to drop VVT. I rather sacrifice bit spool for more HP/Torque at this time.

Edit: Or well actually they can be used, you just have to modify the VVT tensioner it seems.
You cant just add any advance at all or valve comes to contact with piston.
Now more interesting question: Using VVT and not be able to advance timing with wheels, I could possibly lose hp/torque becase cannot time adjust adjustable wheels?

 

[badger5]

About this cambelt lower wheel if you want to make it better cheaper, just drill two holes and put steel pins in them. This is more than enough and tested with 830hp/773Nm at my friends car.
Im just going to order the ARP upgrated bolt and new wheel just to be safe.

Today I acquired new parts:
- AEM 400LPH fuel pump
- 44MM Watercooled wastegate

is that a real tial gate or fake/copy?
friends bought one of these hoping to save money, and first time used on the dyno it seized up.

 

[badger5]

Did the research and @badger5 was right. These camshafts are not to be used with VVT so for now I have to drop VVT. I rather sacrifice bit spool for more HP/Torque at this time.

Edit: Or well actually they can be used, you just have to modify the VVT tensioner it seems.
You cant just add any advance at all or valve comes to contact with piston.
Now more interesting question: Using VVT and not be able to advance timing with wheels, I could possibly lose hp/torque becase cannot time adjust adjustable wheels?

VVT is on/off on 1.8t
22 degrees advance inlet cam when on.
centre inlet valve is the problem one. Get piston pocket machined to accomodate more lift. Keep VVt. you sacrifice nothing then. vvt on for best torque onset/spool, and off once its going for optimum power.

imho

 

[Warsuperior]

is that a real tial gate or fake/copy?
friends bought one of these hoping to save money, and first time used on the dyno it seized up.

Supposed to be a good copy. Friend has one and works great. I report how it works.

VVT is on/off on 1.8t
22 degrees advance inlet cam when on.
centre inlet valve is the problem one. Get piston pocket machined to accomodate more lift. Keep VVt. you sacrifice nothing then. vvt on for best torque onset/spool, and off once its going for optimum power.

imho

Rosten Performance confirmed that can use VVT but no advance at all is ok. Im not 100% on track how the VVT works so do I see it when engine is not running? Im thinking on situation where I time the cams when engine is on build dock.

 

[Warsuperior]

I was considering the following injectors for 700hp E85 in mind:
EV14, 2000 CC, 8.5 Ohm, O-O 47 mm, TOP 14 mm, ND type connector
Incl. TOP adapter with high flow filter. Bosch recommends using this injector only with CNG. Use with other type of fuel at your own risk. Suutin on tehty kaasukäyttöön, muu käyttö omalla vastuulla. Nominal flow rates: 3 bar/ 2210cc, 4 bar/ 2690 cc / min

Any comments on those?
I mostly will drive with benzin anyways since my ****** town doesnt have E85

Does 61mm o-o injector fit? Well this might be hard to answer since I have HRT rennsport intake..

 

[Warsuperior]

More parts bought.
OEM brand new in unopened box R32 throttle body 104,55pounds! That was a steal because these seem to cost GBP 386.23 from OEM desk?

 

[Warsuperior]

About injectors, those are not suggested for gasoline so I guess I might stick on 1300cc long tip "plug and play" ones then.. My intake is specced up to 600hp so I hope it will flow that much.
Id really appreciate anyone(even with little tip by paypal) to get me measures of OEM->R32 throttle body adapter plate measures. I have place to machine one.

 

[Warsuperior]

nothing mad about the spec. knife edged lightened/balanced crank being done at the moment..
8.5:1 83mm je's (cos they were available new/unused at good price)
our catcams, supertech valvetrain, catgold springs, some largeport head (maybe go ported smallport i'm not sure yet, vvt, g25-660 turbo, 1000cc injectors........ IECU etc..

Have you got the crank back? any pics of it? I assume lightening doesnt make it weaker?

 

[Warsuperior]

Heres the car that is receiving engine. Its my daily driver now. I know, the FMIC pipes are not symmetrical and have few dents and bumper is loose from right side of car but its under fixing.
I just washed it quick and changed summer tires and yes, that is snow in pictures

 

[Warsuperior]

Aem came!
Seems to be in great shape! have to test it tomorrow doest it spin.

 

[Warsuperior]

Again my stupid ideas grow. I love 5cyl engines but seems impossible to install it without heavy modification and I would have to redesing whole power train.
Unless win lottery, buy TTRS engine

does anyone know would the 2.5TFSI engine bolt to S3 gearbox or is it totally different?

 

[hydro s3]

Why not do the 3.2 turbo engine conversion? Like @Tj 0785 is doing at the moment

 

[Bluepower]

Build yourself a NA 07K engine, with my turbokit...

Yes, the S3 gearbox will mount directly to the 07K, jut need to swap the flywheel...

 

[syncro]

You need to grind the top edge of the o2m gearbox bellhousing or it will crack the o7k timing chain cover

 

[Warsuperior]

Why not do the 3.2 turbo engine conversion? Like @Tj 0785 is doing at the moment

This is hard because there is not 3.2l turbo engines and I need one for MOT.
5cyl engine is harder to notice from 4cyl but 3.2l is rather easy to notice. We have iditotic laws according of turbocharging cars and well in general too.
I love 5cyl engine sound but also R32 sounds are just lovely. I think if I go for V6 engine, why not go for 3.6L from R36 Passat

Build yourself a NA 07K engine, with my turbokit...

Yes, the S3 gearbox will mount directly to the 07K, jut need to swap the flywheel...

Your pictures do not show.
This is some very rare engine here where I live. Havent even heard of one mentioned before.
That engine looks nice btw. Head made by Lamborghini guys etc.

But I guess for now I stick with 4cyl unless I won lottery. Perhaps next evolution version I make 5cyl

 

[Warsuperior]

Decision decisions.. I have OEM head bolts but Im wondering do I really need ARP stud kit. Im not opening engine again, unless something goes wrong. There is also ARP kit for main bearing caps, that might be better to buy but I havent heard the OEM to fail on those either.
Any opinions on these thoughts?

I have now approx 400hp and 470nm with OEM bolts on head and downstairs. I know there is 600hp engine with oem bolts tho..
Any input or opinons are appreciated and hard facts are greatly thanked!

 

[Rainbird]

...any wondering why I am using ARP over a set of OE bolts, in the pic below we have an ARP stud, OE bolt and what happens to OE bolts... not the first failure I have seen and was enough to persuade my that at my power level its a worth while investment...

<tuffty/>

Mains seem a no brainer to me. Head then perhaps not so much, but if the budget allows certainly worth considering

 

[Warsuperior]

Im ordering main stud ARP kit now.
Also ordered martensite exhaust valves 8pcs and springs with titanium retainers.

Big thanks to you Rainbird and for Tuffty too for sharing that picture

 

[badger5]

what valves?

 

[Warsuperior]

Martensite is the material
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martensitic_stainless_steel
but I might change them to Supertech inconel ones, since I got good offer.

 

[Rainbird]

I may well be wrong, but didn't @Stuart B try some other relatively unknown valves along those lines and have problems?

Stick with Supertech/Ferrea/etc

 

[Warsuperior]

Is there any use to take 1 lock groove valves instead of 3 groove?
Im thinking supertech inconel ones as exhaust and OEM intakes.

 

[Warsuperior]

I went for 1 lock groove for better grip and on high rev applications its suggested.
For a moment thought of sodium filled incone but I think not filled are enough for my engine.

As for main bearing cap bolts, I though of using 12.9 bolts instead of OEM 10.9
Rosten-Performance sells those too but I can get them cheaper.
Torque settings for 12.9:
Torque to 65nm + 90 degrees with engine oil as lube

 

[Warsuperior]

Incoming! Ordered just now.
Also here is the R32 Throttle body

Order list today: Valve spring set with titanium retainers, Ekagrips for camshaft and flywheel. Inconel single groove exhaust valves. OEM intake valves with new locks. Valve guides and gaskets. ACL main+rod bearings+OEM thrust bearings.

Next are injectors 1300cc, one question comes to mind: Do I buy the long tip ones or without? Long tips are harder to sell here if I need to uprate at some point..
this
https://www.finjector.com/eng/ev14_1300_cc_c_12_ohm_jetronic_o_o_47_mm_long_spray_end-p-719713
vs
this
https://www.finjector.com/eng/ev14_1300_cc_12_ohm_c_jetronic_long_o_o_61_mm_top_14_mm-p-486740-188
Any advice?

I bough R32 throttle body but I would need adapter to use it on my Rennsport intake.
Below is other one I was considering:
https://www.x-parts.de/Ansaugbruecken/VAG-1-8-T-Quer-Ansaugbruecke-Turbo-Manifold::2523552.html
It says something about Hemi plate and it can be "opened" for big port.

My rennsport intake should flow up to 600hp but I dont know can it be modified for big port. How much material I need to remove approx to make small port to big port? anyone?

Is it worth to put adaptor plate for R32 75mm TB and modify it to big port? Opinions?

I bought cheapest engine/transmission mounts and shore 65 polyurethane rubber. I have those same now and they have worked great. This time Im putting more time and be more careful when adding rubber(and not buying the 5min cure one lol). Perhaps even drill holes on rubber and fille them too to get more stiff. approx 90 pounds and you get stiff lasting mounts

I planned DIY WMI kit too. Third of price you get fully working WMI kit, just need some R&D
Saturday its time to gut the Audi A3 and get AGU engine to workbench.

 

[Warsuperior]

1.8t OEM bolt pattern is 60x60mm right and my R32 TB is 75x75 I would have to make adapter. Not the most best flowing solution but I could perhaps reuse my intake.

EDIT: Went and measured old intake. There is no chance to make adapter for it and I could not get much benefit anyways from it since the intake hole cannot be opened much. I could cut the plate off and weld it but I dont think it will work so great... and hard to find good welder where I live.

So I guess I order that X-parts.de intake and new hemi TB for it since Im sure the R32 wont fit..

Or go with OEM Tb and the rennsport intake but I think it might be restrictive..

Well soon Im going to sell some parts, if anyone is interested... not soon but in coming months.

 

[Bluepower]

You can of course start first with the Rennsport intake and OEM TB, and when you find that to be restrictive after tuning, then you can always get that manifold and a R32/Hemi TB. The Rennsport runners can be ported(friend of mine did that already) to fit the big-port cylinderhead, and he also fully opened the runners.

 

[Warsuperior]

Im going to buy the x-parts intake
Before I start to gather more materials for my exhaust manifold, what size and wall size does people recommend it be?
38mm inner is recommended for quick spool. Some says 3mm wall thickness on SS is best, at least it wont break easily.
Any recommentations?

 

[Warsuperior]

Lady luck gave me 1600€ so thinking to get new conrods just to be safe.
Any suggestions? IE Tuscan rods are looking rather good, they are I-beam
Anyone tried FCP X-rods?

 

[Warsuperior]

Little things bought and waiting for deliver:
- X-parts intake
- Girdle
- FCP X-Rods
- G25-660
- 1200cc EV14 injectors + Dual injector boss / bungs to modify instead of single injector in intake. Primary injectors are 630cc EV14 and these are staged ones. 1200cc are 11mm upper, so I need adapters for them or I machine my fuel rail block(bought new raw rail with bigger fuel flow holes/champers)
- VW W8 Throttle body because I got it cheap lol dunno what I do with it yet
- Fluiddampr
- ARP headbolts+crank+camshaft+main bearings, found cheap set


Maybe pile:
- Sachs SMF race kit <-this is still maybe? I would want to know how it is to drive daily
I got offer for 1400€ to fully refurbish the head including:
- 1mm bigger exhaust valves, they advised
- New guides
- New valve install
- CNC squish dome so they are equal size. It's critical all are identical in high power applications. You would not want one cyl producing 10hp more or less
- CNC flame ring and better waterflow channels for greater cooling. This is in use 1000hp+ application here in Finland and seems to work great. Check pictures!


Finally got my AGU engine out

And enjoyed some refreshments when doing it

 

[Warsuperior]

Im going to need dual fuel pumps so what size hose I should use to take them from back to front?

 

[badger5]

so you have removed squish deck.. and added deck cooling.
add some dimples and your head will look like my ibiza's one

 

[Warsuperior]

If you read, you see I was offered this setup for head. I have not accepted it but I dont think its a bad thing either. For my horsepower range perhaps too extreme but we will see.

This head with those water rings has been used since 2017 race season and is in works at proven 829Hp engine and this season breaking 1000hp
Here starting on "build for blacklist" you can see more info about that car
http://www.speedhunters.com/2019/04/scandinavias-summer-car-show-season-starts-now/

But as always please present your opinions about pros and cons

 

[Warsuperior]

G25-660 came. She is so tiny! Hard to belive it can deliver over 600hp

1200cc injectors EV14 11m up head. These are going to be secondary. Only thing I wonder that when I push them into those dual bungs, they are pretty deep inside of hole. There is lot of hole before opening to intake.

How deep is accetable for injector? its approx half way of that block, tip of it I mean

 

[Bluepower]

Goodies, goodies, goodies...
As for the injectors, the spray will determine wether they aren't deep enough, or if it doesn't matter.. Otherwise you'd need to machine them down so the tips are closer to the bottom part

 

[Warsuperior]

Double springs with titanium retainers. Rosten-Performance sold cheap and they are good. I recommend!

X-parts intake, they are cheap too 495€
Small port but easily convert to big port.
Also I bough 80mm Hemi throttle body OEM since my 75mm didnt fit

Link to intake
https://www.x-parts.de/Ansaugbruecken/VAG-1-8-T-Quer-Ansaugbruecke-Turbo-Manifold::2523552.html

DIY WMI kit is also on way. Bought pump from china below 20€ and so far all parts have cost me approx 60€
Not bad price for working one

I decided to move battery to boot and bough 6metres 50mm2 battery cable and fuse box+connectors
Rear absorbers are gone so new Koni ST-R coming with eibach springs.
Second AEM pump and AEM 10micron filter from demontweeks, was cheap there.

Trying to decide should I got SMF and Sach 600Nm SRE kit or not... It would withstand more punishment.
Fluiddampr too is on maybe list. It would be great with SMF what I read.

V-band collector reasonable priced trying to find too, so if you know one, please throw link

From my a3 I got almost new engine mounts and I ordered again shore 65 silicone rubber. Going to drill them and fill them with rubber. 44pounds for a kit of rubber and you get very great mounts! Dont have to spend hundreds of pounds

 

[Warsuperior]

FCP X-Rods arrived!
I changed some parts bit too. I got lucky and found fluidampr cheap on ebay. Brand new was just missing oem case. Saved almost 100€ which is great.
Wastegate I changed to TRIX version to be safe.
Brother makes me spacer for intake plenum, I can increase the intake size approx 0.5litres, this should help give more power/torque.
Supertech inconel 1 groove exhaust valves are incoming too and ACL race bearings.
Next week taking engine parts to machining and boring the block to oversize.

I went OEM Hemi 80mm throttle body. Used but working from USA.
Second AEM pump has not arrived but I ordered 3litre surge tank where you can drop-in the 60mm fuel pumps. Im mounting it to trunk.
I ordered **** ton of AN fittings and hose from China too

Hit problems with taking the crank bolt off. Of course I cant get it out because I cannot lock the crank. This is annoying but oh well, I dont need to remove it anyways. Got new bolts etc. incoming.
Main bearing caps Im replacing with 12.9 steel bolts, possibly hex tool head because I cannot find normal size. The bolt size btw is 79,44mm*10 and 1.5 thread if anyone ever needs the size. Im going for M10*80
Also my head has ZXN bolts so I didnt have long enough tool, had to order that too.
After thinking long Im going with OEM head bolts since Im not going to open the engine nonstop for ARP to be worth it. Havent seen lot OEM bolts breaking unless installed wrong.