Audi S3 8P random ESP dash light - haldex gen 2 fault

Andyrew_88

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Hi, I have a really annoying fault thats developed on my s3 8p. Don't know if its since the battery was changed for a new one or since its been on the rolling road or its just a coincidence?

Faults on newest version of vagcom are;

00003 - Control module 014 defective - intermittent
02248 - Valve for controlling clutch operating angle (N373) 014 - defective - intermittent

If you start the car it flashes up on the dash ESP fault and the light stays on.

If you turn the car off and start it again the ESP light goes out.

Then maybe the next few times the ESP light is not illuminated but then randomly comes on the next time you start the car.
It never comes on whilst driving the car, only when starting the car up.

is there any measuring blocks i should be looking at on vagcom to pinpoint the fault? ross tech wiki doesn't really give any information to fault find. The haldex controller seal looks in good condition. I am not sure when the haldex oil and filter were last changed either? Could be a good starting point?

Any help would be massively appreciated

Cheers, Andy
 
Don't want to worry you but them fault codes point to a faulty Haldex controller rather than the haldex pump.

The controller is underneath the car near the haldex pump. First i would check it's not just a damaged cable so unplug the cable and check and clean all the contacts. Their is an earth wire running to the unit, that that's not damaged and in good condition.

Next look at the controller unit and see if the black seal is all in 1 piece and looks in good condition. If it appears corroded then chances are dampness has got in and corroded the board. That happened to mine. You can send it off for clean and repairs to a company called autofaultfinder or what I did was carefully take it apart and cleaned the circuit board with contact cleaner and a tooth brush, left it to dry in the warmth for a few hours then resealed it and left.inside over night to cure. Been fine over a year and done 12k since.

Mines a gen 4 and a new one from Audi I was quoted nearly £1k with vat.
 
I wonder if they plugged the haldex controller back in properly after the rolling road, as most only do the front wheels.
 
Don't want to worry you but them fault codes point to a faulty Haldex controller rather than the haldex pump.

The controller is underneath the car near the haldex pump. First i would check it's not just a damaged cable so unplug the cable and check and clean all the contacts. Their is an earth wire running to the unit, that that's not damaged and in good condition.

Next look at the controller unit and see if the black seal is all in 1 piece and looks in good condition. If it appears corroded then chances are dampness has got in and corroded the board. That happened to mine. You can send it off for clean and repairs to a company called autofaultfinder or what I did was carefully take it apart and cleaned the circuit board with contact cleaner and a tooth brush, left it to dry in the warmth for a few hours then resealed it and left.inside over night to cure. Been fine over a year and done 12k since.

Mines a gen 4 and a new one from Audi I was quoted nearly £1k with vat.

Thank you. I am going to whip controller off at weekend and check the circuit board and see if it can be cleaned up. Cheers
 
I wonder if they plugged the haldex controller back in properly after the rolling road, as most only do the front wheels.

Do they unplug both plugs or just the one do you know when running on the rolling road ?

Cheers
 
Do they unplug both plugs or just the one do you know when running on the rolling road ?

Cheers
If they have two plugs? i would have thought they would pull both to be sure, but I could be absolutely wrong as I've never done it and never knew they had two plugs.
 
Hi Andy,

mine started doing exactly the same thing recently, but I don't have access to VCDS/VAGCOM so I can't check for codes.
What I have noticed, is that if I drive the car with the ESP light on from startup, it can spin the front wheels easier, so I guess that it isn't meaning ESP off at this point, but 4wd not active and probably ESP too.

I have also noticed that this has only started after a period of not using the car every day and stops happening when I get frequent use out of it.
It also happens more in cold & damp conditions, and I notice sluggish starting. I think the battery is due a change-out and I have come up with a temporary preventive that works every time I start the car;

Turn ignition to the position that the dash-lights come on. (don't start the car) The ESP light and a few others should go out after a few seconds.
When the ESP light stays on, turn the key back to off, and then back to this pre-start position, and then the ESP light goes out every time I have done this. I then start the car. Even when the start is a bit slow, or takes more turns than normal, the car still starts and the ESP off.
After some daily drives, I find that the ESP light goes off the first time, so I just start and drive.
Everything seems system normal after this, I can use the ESP off button to turn it all off and on as normal.

because this is the first Haldex equipped car I have owned, I haven't got used to the 4wd feeling yet and I'm still playing with the idea of how best to test it, like driving on grass, or putting the front wheels only on a soft/loose surface and trying to drive off to feel the rear operate.
It's got such good tyres, I can harldy ever get any spin on tarmac. Even in the damp and cold at this time of year.

I'm keen to hear how you get on with yours, because I'd like a good hint on what work to do to make sure everything is in best condition possible and I'm quite happy to get the ramps out and go through all the connections and check & replace the earth (read in various places) if that's needed.

Cheers,

Warren.
 
Hi Andy,

mine started doing exactly the same thing recently, but I don't have access to VCDS/VAGCOM so I can't check for codes.
What I have noticed, is that if I drive the car with the ESP light on from startup, it can spin the front wheels easier, so I guess that it isn't meaning ESP off at this point, but 4wd not active and probably ESP too.

I have also noticed that this has only started after a period of not using the car every day and stops happening when I get frequent use out of it.
It also happens more in cold & damp conditions, and I notice sluggish starting. I think the battery is due a change-out and I have come up with a temporary preventive that works every time I start the car;

Turn ignition to the position that the dash-lights come on. (don't start the car) The ESP light and a few others should go out after a few seconds.
When the ESP light stays on, turn the key back to off, and then back to this pre-start position, and then the ESP light goes out every time I have done this. I then start the car. Even when the start is a bit slow, or takes more turns than normal, the car still starts and the ESP off.
After some daily drives, I find that the ESP light goes off the first time, so I just start and drive.
Everything seems system normal after this, I can use the ESP off button to turn it all off and on as normal.

because this is the first Haldex equipped car I have owned, I haven't got used to the 4wd feeling yet and I'm still playing with the idea of how best to test it, like driving on grass, or putting the front wheels only on a soft/loose surface and trying to drive off to feel the rear operate.
It's got such good tyres, I can harldy ever get any spin on tarmac. Even in the damp and cold at this time of year.

I'm keen to hear how you get on with yours, because I'd like a good hint on what work to do to make sure everything is in best condition possible and I'm quite happy to get the ramps out and go through all the connections and check & replace the earth (read in various places) if that's needed.

Cheers,

Warren.
You need to get error codes checked before clutching st straws. Most haldex errors don't even produce any kind of warning or errors on the dash. The car simply reverts to FWD only and you only realise their is an error when you start seeing the traction light flash and front tyres spinning in the damp/wet weather.

I've had both major haldex errors. The pre charge pumping failing and the haldex controller itself and either produce a dash error or warning light. VcDS picks the code up immediately.

If you think your battery is failing personally get that fixed first before fannying around wasting time on checking the haldex as if you have voltage issues it causes all kinds of problem. ESP warning light can be a symptom of low voltage but again a simple vcds or carista scan will show the error code and save you time and money ;)

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
I would definitely 2nd what the above poster has written because just a little inside the last post i read about this issue was a stinging £610 worth off misery for the guy . Now recommadation use the Vcd's map section on here get someone who has a good knowledge off Vcd's and PM them asking if they could Autoscan for you and most would happily do if for a few beer tokens and might even be able to fix so think about that before you go probing about . Usual error code ( 00448 )
 
I would definitely 2nd what the above poster has written because just a little inside the last post i read about this issue was a stinging £610 worth off misery for the guy . Now recommadation use the Vcd's map section on here get someone who has a good knowledge off Vcd's and PM them asking if they could Autoscan for you and most would happily do if for a few beer tokens and might even be able to fix so think about that before you go probing about . Usual error code ( 00448 )

I'm certainly a fan on not fixing things for the fun of it. That's what owning the RX8 was all about. You can get stuck in a loop of buying the latest and greatest coils, starters, plugs and oil metering adapters, all for the sake of avoiding a compression failure, because they all lead to early death if not offered as a sacrifice in advance. In the end I had 10k miles until it expired. (previous owner had a rebuild at great expense and between us it lasted only 20k miles.)

but besides that, I have been float charging the battery on my automotive industry quality charger, because that's a special requirement, I'll look at the underside to check that things are physically complete, before I trek around looking for a scan. I might even buy one as an advantage to my own convenience, as I like having tools for myself where I can.

Edit - got the map working and will check out the local-ish stuff if the obvious isn't enough.
 
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I'm certainly a fan on not fixing things for the fun of it. That's what owning the RX8 was all about. You can get stuck in a loop of buying the latest and greatest coils, starters, plugs and oil metering adapters, all for the sake of avoiding a compression failure, because they all lead to early death if not offered as a sacrifice in advance. In the end I had 10k miles until it expired. (previous owner had a rebuild at great expense and between us it lasted only 20k miles.)

but besides that, I have been float charging the battery on my automotive industry quality charger, because that's a special requirement, I'll look at the underside to check that things are physically complete, before I trek around looking for a scan. I might even buy one as an advantage to my own convenience, as I like having tools for myself where I can.

Did you know the map is not available? I was looking at the sticky thread earlier....
I'm Newcastle area and have carista and vcds if your up this way.

Cheapest way is carista but they now charge a yearly or weekly fee. I bought the app years ago and got lifetime fee for about £16. VCDS is definitely the better long term option. Saved me a load of money on my A3 and picking up our RS5 on Monday as well so no doubt will come in handy although fingers crossed that doesnt cost money lol.

What car have you got? Age etc?

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the offer, but it's quite a long way from your neck of the woods!
located near Bognor Vegas.
2005 3.2v6 sport s-line with 113k miles,
Service book comment Haldex oil+filter @98k. (indy Audi specialist stamp)
 

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