Audi A6 4F C6 V6 2.7 3.0 TDi injector removal / installation

gupsterg

Registered User
Hi fellow members
smile.png
...

Below is the parts... please ref linked thread at end for info on part no,etc...

Injectorparts_zps1c5d267d.jpg


Besides the tools I already had I bought a Laser 4640 this is equiv. to the VAG tool & Laser 4984 these fitted perfectly on the HPFP & Inj.fuel in ports and a magnetic grab tool...

1_zps14031f00.jpg


The engine cover is held on at points in red below, I would ease cover off as once I cracked one by being too heavy handed
Blush2.gif
...

2_1_zpsb228f3d7.jpg


I blasted the engine with compressed air before beginning work to remove any dirt/dust...

For Bank 1 remove air intake to turbo, air mass meter, the outer air box housing & duct to front grill... on refit I cleaned air filter housing and vacuum'd the air filter on the outside face, it was not that dirty as only done under a year ago...

3_1_zps5a358c4b.jpg


I closed port on turbo with bag and rubber band...

Bank1_1_zps93fa5bbf.jpg


Next I removed the parts highlighted... the fuel return connections are released by placing fingertips on tabs and pulling round heads up... on refit I lubricate the fuel return "O"rings on injectors with diesel...

Bank1_2_0_zps0564fd31.jpg


All HPFP were marked to fit back in the same place, they are all the same but on refit I wanted to place them all back in original positions...

I prep'd injectors before hand so could minimise engine open time... I used clean engine oil to lubricate the the "O" ring & inj.shaft, end cap fitting was also easier by doing this...

Injectorprep_zpsbfd9675e.jpg


The view of Bank 1 Inj.Bore 1

Bank1_3_zpsd3fcaaf6.jpg


The view of Bank 1 Inj.Bore 1 (mid clean)

Bank1_4_zps97c40297.jpg


The view of Bank 1 Inj.Bore 2

Bank1_5_zps91cb38a9.jpg


The view of Bank 1 Inj.Bore 3

Bank1_6_zpsdc0b81cf.jpg


The view of Bank 1 Inj.Bore 3 (mid clean)

Bank1_7_zps376fa916.jpg


I first used my homemade vacuum tool (6mm PVC air line) to vacuum carbon form the inj.bores...

Tool1_zps52de3fec.jpg


Then I used clean engine oil with my homemade tool (elec. wiring feed tool with cotton bud, apply tape with clean hands!) , this allowed clear view of the injector seat...

Tool2_zpsb46b2c05.jpg


For Bank 2 coolant tank moved... I also removed the screws to the throttle body later to allow better access to Inj.4 on bank 2...

3_2_zpsb286da4a.jpg


Bank2_1_zps749c23cc.jpg


I removed some coolant with large syringe, clamped the hoses, unplugged lower elec.connection to coolant level sender...

I also had to remove the screw for the wiring harness on bank 2...

Bank2_2_zpse24b808b.jpg


The trickiest part as I did not have magnetic sockets was Inj.4 clamp nut close to oil filler neck... the magnetic grab tool came handy here...

2012_12190175_zps84c00801.jpg


I had thought about using grease in socket but did not wish to contaminate the oil/internals...

I also had to clean off some corrosion on the HPFP...

HPP_1_zps36df2549.jpg


I just used diesel and light rubbing action with fingertips, on refit I lubricated the threads of the relevant connections with diesel, first locating the pipes & viewing their mating points and then hand tightening the flare nuts...

I also noted some cracks in fuel return pipes...

FuelReturn_zps894320bd.jpg


Above was the section under the coolant tank... if I'd know before hand would have tried to have solution/parts to hand... as not leaking fuel have left for the time being...

For tightening torques ref Link:- Fuel system exploded view

Coding was done before startup of engine via VCDS... the new injector calibration codes will be on the collar at the inj.fuel in port...

[Select]
[01 - Engine]

[Adaptation - 10]
Channel 071: IMA-ISA Value for Cylinder 1
Channel 072: IMA-ISA Value for Cylinder 2
Channel 073: IMA-ISA Value for Cylinder 3
Channel 074: IMA-ISA Value for Cylinder 4
Channel 075: IMA-ISA Value for Cylinder 5
Channel 076: IMA-ISA Value for Cylinder 6
[Test]
[Save]
[Done, Go Back]

Switch Ignition OFF, wait 10 seconds and switch Ignition ON again. The values should be saved now, please verify them by double checking the adaptation values.

I also done this...

[Select]
[01 - Engine
[Basic Settings - 04]
Set Group to "035"
[Go!]
[ON/OFF/Next]
The electric fuel pump should run for 30 seconds

If the vehicle had a simple repair such as a fuel filter that should be a sufficient amount of time for the filter to fill up.
If the engine had extensive repairs such as injector replacement and/or fuel system flushing this process should be repeated no less than 3 times. Click [On/Off/Next] to reinitialize the process if needed.

[Done, Go Back]

I couldn't verify at the time if this function on my engine but did it anyway...

Engine may not start first time and cut out with a low oil pressure warning... initiate startup again... fuel system will self bleed...

Let engine idle for 5-10mins do not rev engine...

Here is a log of the adaptation of injectors after change over Link:-
View attachment Log-injectors final.txt

I think I covered all I did but will update if recall anything more
wink.png
...

Please read in full, take things slowly when doing especially when removing the nuts on injector clamp as if they fall they will be in the camshafts/valve train, I found cleaning the oil of them helped also, have the magnetic tool to hand, I also used a tweezer to lift/grab them off last threads...


Thanks to the VWAF team for help with this
beerchug.gif
...

A8 Tech, Crasher & of course my many supportive VWAF friends, especially SPARKER and SNAPDRAGON for his first hand tips
wink.png
...

Ref link:- A6/C6 injector PROBLEM - Replacement/refurbished injectors possible?

This is an experience share for others to use as they wish!
 

Christopher osullivan

Registered User
Thanks for this info been looking for instructions for a few days , could you tell me how to stop fuel pressure blowing diesel every where , also do I need to go to audi garage to programme replacement injectors , if so will the engine run to get the car to the garage ? Thanks guys
 

gupsterg

Registered User
Hi,

My car had been stood over night when I did change. When undoing any fuel pipes there was no sudden escape of fuel more like dribbles. I did have a towel located wherever I worked as didn't want engine covered in diesel.

You don't need to go to main dealer for coding, I did mine at home using VCDS (a VAG diag.tool). I really don't think it's advisable to change injectors and then not to change coding and drive it somewhere.

If you do not have VCDS, check in the VCDS section on forum there is a map of forum members with it and someone may code for you. Perhaps also ask a local mobile mechanic if they have diag.tool to code for you, it's a very quick process to code new injectors in.

ATB
G
 

rrrumen

Registered User
Hello there. I'm driving my 4F in Bulgaria. ;) Before couple of days i changed my incjectors with new(recycled) ones. But now i have a problem. Round 3200rpm there is some kind ot cut brake. It's like a diesel shortage that starts from 3200 to 4000rpm. This problem only exist when the diesel temperature rise 90+ degrees. (Vcds temp check). Any ideas?

Thanks. ;)
 

intrillo

Registered User
Can you upload again photos?
Or do you have a pdf?
Thanks a lot!

Hi fellow members
smile.png
...

Below is the parts... please ref linked thread at end for info on part no,etc...

Injectorparts_zps1c5d267d.jpg


Besides the tools I already had I bought a Laser 4640 this is equiv. to the VAG tool & Laser 4984 these fitted perfectly on the HPFP & Inj.fuel in ports and a magnetic grab tool...

1_zps14031f00.jpg


The engine cover is held on at points in red below, I would ease cover off as once I cracked one by being too heavy handed
Blush2.gif
...

2_1_zpsb228f3d7.jpg


I blasted the engine with compressed air before beginning work to remove any dirt/dust...

For Bank 1 remove air intake to turbo, air mass meter, the outer air box housing & duct to front grill... on refit I cleaned air filter housing and vacuum'd the air filter on the outside face, it was not that dirty as only done under a year ago...

3_1_zps5a358c4b.jpg


I closed port on turbo with bag and rubber band...

Bank1_1_zps93fa5bbf.jpg


Next I removed the parts highlighted... the fuel return connections are released by placing fingertips on tabs and pulling round heads up... on refit I lubricate the fuel return "O"rings on injectors with diesel...

Bank1_2_0_zps0564fd31.jpg


All HPFP were marked to fit back in the same place, they are all the same but on refit I wanted to place them all back in original positions...

I prep'd injectors before hand so could minimise engine open time... I used clean engine oil to lubricate the the "O" ring & inj.shaft, end cap fitting was also easier by doing this...

Injectorprep_zpsbfd9675e.jpg


The view of Bank 1 Inj.Bore 1

Bank1_3_zpsd3fcaaf6.jpg


The view of Bank 1 Inj.Bore 1 (mid clean)

Bank1_4_zps97c40297.jpg


The view of Bank 1 Inj.Bore 2

Bank1_5_zps91cb38a9.jpg


The view of Bank 1 Inj.Bore 3

Bank1_6_zpsdc0b81cf.jpg


The view of Bank 1 Inj.Bore 3 (mid clean)

Bank1_7_zps376fa916.jpg


I first used my homemade vacuum tool (6mm PVC air line) to vacuum carbon form the inj.bores...

Tool1_zps52de3fec.jpg


Then I used clean engine oil with my homemade tool (elec. wiring feed tool with cotton bud, apply tape with clean hands!) , this allowed clear view of the injector seat...

Tool2_zpsb46b2c05.jpg


For Bank 2 coolant tank moved... I also removed the screws to the throttle body later to allow better access to Inj.4 on bank 2...

3_2_zpsb286da4a.jpg


Bank2_1_zps749c23cc.jpg


I removed some coolant with large syringe, clamped the hoses, unplugged lower elec.connection to coolant level sender...

I also had to remove the screw for the wiring harness on bank 2...

Bank2_2_zpse24b808b.jpg


The trickiest part as I did not have magnetic sockets was Inj.4 clamp nut close to oil filler neck... the magnetic grab tool came handy here...

2012_12190175_zps84c00801.jpg


I had thought about using grease in socket but did not wish to contaminate the oil/internals...

I also had to clean off some corrosion on the HPFP...

HPP_1_zps36df2549.jpg


I just used diesel and light rubbing action with fingertips, on refit I lubricated the threads of the relevant connections with diesel, first locating the pipes & viewing their mating points and then hand tightening the flare nuts...

I also noted some cracks in fuel return pipes...

FuelReturn_zps894320bd.jpg


Above was the section under the coolant tank... if I'd know before hand would have tried to have solution/parts to hand... as not leaking fuel have left for the time being...

For tightening torques ref Link:- Fuel system exploded view

Coding was done before startup of engine via VCDS... the new injector calibration codes will be on the collar at the inj.fuel in port...

[Select]
[01 - Engine]

[Adaptation - 10]
Channel 071: IMA-ISA Value for Cylinder 1
Channel 072: IMA-ISA Value for Cylinder 2
Channel 073: IMA-ISA Value for Cylinder 3
Channel 074: IMA-ISA Value for Cylinder 4
Channel 075: IMA-ISA Value for Cylinder 5
Channel 076: IMA-ISA Value for Cylinder 6
[Test]
[Save]
[Done, Go Back]

Switch Ignition OFF, wait 10 seconds and switch Ignition ON again. The values should be saved now, please verify them by double checking the adaptation values.

I also done this...

[Select]
[01 - Engine
[Basic Settings - 04]
Set Group to "035"
[Go!]
[ON/OFF/Next]
The electric fuel pump should run for 30 seconds

If the vehicle had a simple repair such as a fuel filter that should be a sufficient amount of time for the filter to fill up.
If the engine had extensive repairs such as injector replacement and/or fuel system flushing this process should be repeated no less than 3 times. Click [On/Off/Next] to reinitialize the process if needed.

[Done, Go Back]

I couldn't verify at the time if this function on my engine but did it anyway...

Engine may not start first time and cut out with a low oil pressure warning... initiate startup again... fuel system will self bleed...

Let engine idle for 5-10mins do not rev engine...

Here is a log of the adaptation of injectors after change over Link:-
View attachment 18594

I think I covered all I did but will update if recall anything more
wink.png
...

Please read in full, take things slowly when doing especially when removing the nuts on injector clamp as if they fall they will be in the camshafts/valve train, I found cleaning the oil of them helped also, have the magnetic tool to hand, I also used a tweezer to lift/grab them off last threads...


Thanks to the VWAF team for help with this
beerchug.gif
...

A8 Tech, Crasher & of course my many supportive VWAF friends, especially SPARKER and SNAPDRAGON for his first hand tips
wink.png
...

Ref link:- A6/C6 injector PROBLEM - Replacement/refurbished injectors possible?

This is an experience share for others to use as they wish!
 

B5NUT

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
What on earth is the point in using Photobucket if the images are never available in this forum?

Photobucket changed their policy to linking images last year... It used to be free now they charge around £400 a year. I used photobucket in my thread, then had to spend about a week re-linking all of the images. It take time and you have to ask admin's to unlock the post as they get locked after 1 hour.
 

marsmail

Registered User
B5NUT,
I realise that this is an old thread, but the one thing missing is an indication of how long it took you and thus how much it is going to cost me when I have it done to mine in a short while - see my post "strange oil smoke on cold start" to which you responded, suggesting I needed to get it scanned, now done. As a further point of interest I was told that the max ms time allowed was 10ms (only one of my 6 met this). I would really like to know what this time refers to, if your would be so kind as to explain
Thanks

marsmail
 

Tdibooster

Registered User
Excellent guide my friend. Done yourself proud there and definitely saved a lot of people hundreds in labour costs
 
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