Yes, you could be right!
I would 100% recommend you visiting VAGPro's website! Google it as it contains 6 or so different examples of roof failure. One being the one you described!
He's very helpful, so contact him from there..
All the best with it.
Audi A4 Cabriolet Soft Top/ Roof / Hood Motor Repair Guide
- Thread starter VagPro
- Start date
Yes, you could be right!
I would 100% recommend you visiting VAGPro's website! Google it as it contains 6 or so different examples of roof failure. One being the one you described!
He's very helpful, so contact him from there..
All the best with it.
Hi, new poster here. I thought I'd post my experiences getting my roof fixed for very little money.
My car is a 2008 plate Audi A4 cabriolet, 1.8T, poverty spec.
Symptoms:
1. Roof light flashed 7 x (approx) when you turn the key in the ignition.
2. Roof sometimes got stuck when opening / closing (approx 3/4 way down, or 3/4 way closed). When reset using the massive key thing the problem went away for maybe a week or so.
It was generally an annoying but intermittent problem which took the fun away from having a cab, as I didn't know whether the roof was going to work or not!
Solution:
1. Read this thread (very helpful indeed).
2. Removed the motor, checked it, cleaned it, put some light oil on it - everything appeared to be ok, the brushes were moving well. It's a really easy job once you've got over the fear of potentially trashing your boot trim. If you take your time it's fine.
3. Put the motor back, but it still had the intermittent fault.
4. Removed the motor and sent to Mervyn at "autoelectron" via an ebay purchase. He inspected it, phoned me up, told me it was fine and gave me some pointers. Great guy, and he only charged me 25 odd quid for the inspection and sending it back. I strongly recommend using Mervyn's service prior to doing anything else, as it will give a good indication of where the problem is and save a lot of time, uncertainty and money.
5. Removed the position sensor next to the driver's side passenger head - it's a one minute job, a monkey with a screwdriver could do it.
6. Sprayed the position sensor liberally with WD40 and then put it through it's full range of movement about 50 times. This seemed to make it run more smoothly.
7. Replaced the position sensor.
8. Opened and shut the roof 10 times to see if it had fixed it - deep joy as it had worked, no problems at all.
9. Took the car to a local garage with VAGCOM to interrogate and clear the ECU - the error for the G356 position sensor was showing.
10. No problems since in the last four months of frequent use.
What I would have done differently:
1. I would have taken it for a VAGCOM interrogation straight away rather than removing the motor.
The roof is now working fine, and it cost me £40 to sort it out. You don't need many tools or to be technically minded to do it, so I would strongly recommend the DIY route to anyone rather than going to a garage as you will save a fortune. From the garages I spoke to whilst working out a repair route most of them seemed to be either clueless or very expensive. I can't fault Mervyn's assistance at all - I strongly recommend him to anyone who thinks that they may have a problem with their roof motor, or just to help with the fault finding.
With the money I've saved I'm going to get a Revo remap!
My car is a 2008 plate Audi A4 cabriolet, 1.8T, poverty spec.
Symptoms:
1. Roof light flashed 7 x (approx) when you turn the key in the ignition.
2. Roof sometimes got stuck when opening / closing (approx 3/4 way down, or 3/4 way closed). When reset using the massive key thing the problem went away for maybe a week or so.
It was generally an annoying but intermittent problem which took the fun away from having a cab, as I didn't know whether the roof was going to work or not!
Solution:
1. Read this thread (very helpful indeed).
2. Removed the motor, checked it, cleaned it, put some light oil on it - everything appeared to be ok, the brushes were moving well. It's a really easy job once you've got over the fear of potentially trashing your boot trim. If you take your time it's fine.
3. Put the motor back, but it still had the intermittent fault.
4. Removed the motor and sent to Mervyn at "autoelectron" via an ebay purchase. He inspected it, phoned me up, told me it was fine and gave me some pointers. Great guy, and he only charged me 25 odd quid for the inspection and sending it back. I strongly recommend using Mervyn's service prior to doing anything else, as it will give a good indication of where the problem is and save a lot of time, uncertainty and money.
5. Removed the position sensor next to the driver's side passenger head - it's a one minute job, a monkey with a screwdriver could do it.
6. Sprayed the position sensor liberally with WD40 and then put it through it's full range of movement about 50 times. This seemed to make it run more smoothly.
7. Replaced the position sensor.
8. Opened and shut the roof 10 times to see if it had fixed it - deep joy as it had worked, no problems at all.
9. Took the car to a local garage with VAGCOM to interrogate and clear the ECU - the error for the G356 position sensor was showing.
10. No problems since in the last four months of frequent use.
What I would have done differently:
1. I would have taken it for a VAGCOM interrogation straight away rather than removing the motor.
The roof is now working fine, and it cost me £40 to sort it out. You don't need many tools or to be technically minded to do it, so I would strongly recommend the DIY route to anyone rather than going to a garage as you will save a fortune. From the garages I spoke to whilst working out a repair route most of them seemed to be either clueless or very expensive. I can't fault Mervyn's assistance at all - I strongly recommend him to anyone who thinks that they may have a problem with their roof motor, or just to help with the fault finding.
With the money I've saved I'm going to get a Revo remap!
Honestly, a GREAT read! Gives me confidence in the future.
Lovely right up and thank you for the time spent doing so.
Luckily for me, when I had an issue 3 months ago, I had Khurrum 'VAGPRO' himself visit and rectify. He is simply EXCELLENT.
All the best and glad you figured it all out.
..Enjoy the Remap, but DONT go the Revo route..
Lovely right up and thank you for the time spent doing so.
Luckily for me, when I had an issue 3 months ago, I had Khurrum 'VAGPRO' himself visit and rectify. He is simply EXCELLENT.
All the best and glad you figured it all out.
..Enjoy the Remap, but DONT go the Revo route..
Roof Fix Update
In August 2017, after much intermittent trouble with my roof, I purchased one of VagPro's brush and holder kits off eBay.
I know I'm tempting fate in writing this (edge of desk currently being gripped firmly) but after a great deal of use throughout the year, especially during our unusually hot summer, I can report that the roof has operated faultlessly.
I just wanted to say thank you (again) to Khurrum for producing the kits and restoring my confidence when operating my roof mechanism.
In August 2017, after much intermittent trouble with my roof, I purchased one of VagPro's brush and holder kits off eBay.
I know I'm tempting fate in writing this (edge of desk currently being gripped firmly) but after a great deal of use throughout the year, especially during our unusually hot summer, I can report that the roof has operated faultlessly.
I just wanted to say thank you (again) to Khurrum for producing the kits and restoring my confidence when operating my roof mechanism.
So my roof was down the other day but when i pressed the button to get it to go up, the rear compartment opened but the roof didn't come up. I had to manually raise the roof using the reset key.
Following codes are now showing
26 Electronic Roof Control
System description: VSG B6 CABRIO
Software number: 8H0959255A
Software version: 7094
Trouble codes:
02000 - Switch position Implausible signal
static
01093 - Convertible top compartment cover open position switch Implausible signal
static
Does this point more to the switch/sensor in the rear compartment tray than the motor? Any pointers would be good.
Thanks
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Following codes are now showing
26 Electronic Roof Control
System description: VSG B6 CABRIO
Software number: 8H0959255A
Software version: 7094
Trouble codes:
02000 - Switch position Implausible signal
static
01093 - Convertible top compartment cover open position switch Implausible signal
static
Does this point more to the switch/sensor in the rear compartment tray than the motor? Any pointers would be good.
Thanks
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Bumping my post above..
Roof goes down but on way up the compartment opens a fraction then nothing happens.
Unsure whether that means the compartment micro switch or the motor..
Is the compartment micro switch easy to get to?
Anyone else had this issue? Or have a guide to access the micro switch?
Thanks
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Roof goes down but on way up the compartment opens a fraction then nothing happens.
Unsure whether that means the compartment micro switch or the motor..
Is the compartment micro switch easy to get to?
Anyone else had this issue? Or have a guide to access the micro switch?
Thanks
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
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Cleaned the motor as instructed. Roof now opens up and the lid goes perfectly vertical to the ground. After it gets vertical, it starts to slowly slide down back to the closed position as the top is half folded up. I am thinking sensors on the lid. Any ideas. I bought this car last September (2004 3.0 quattro) and have put more money into it than I paid for the car and most certainly don't want to spend another dime on it. I wish I had time to wade through the 22 pages.
Thanks,
Bry
Thanks,
Bry
Sounds similar to the problem I had (post #842). Get a VAGCOM diagnostic done and report back with the error codes. Should cost you £20 tops.
Thanks for the info B7. Will give it a shot tonight.
BTW, read through all 22 pages of this thread. Of all my meanderings though the interweb messageboards, this is the most informative and friendly thread I have ever seen. Well done to all of you Lot for keeping it civilized and incredibly helpful! Bravo!
BTW, read through all 22 pages of this thread. Of all my meanderings though the interweb messageboards, this is the most informative and friendly thread I have ever seen. Well done to all of you Lot for keeping it civilized and incredibly helpful! Bravo!
In case you are thinking about it don't bother trying to use one of those Ebay OBDII dongles - I suggest going to a garage to get the proper diagnostic done. I tried using an OBDII dongle and I would have got better results from plugging in a can of corned beef. I should have mentioned that in my post previously.
Hopefully you can learn from all our mistakes!
I had one already actually. I get a bunch of info out of it, just not when the top is functioning.
Is it just me, or is the key for manual operation the most painful object ever to be used to open something? The movement in the locking mechanisms really need to be oiled on my car, or this thing is impossible to turn and the key with the red pinching grip hurts like H E double hockey sticks when I try to grip it. Even with work gloves on, this thing is impossible to turn.
Is it just me, or is the key for manual operation the most painful object ever to be used to open something? The movement in the locking mechanisms really need to be oiled on my car, or this thing is impossible to turn and the key with the red pinching grip hurts like H E double hockey sticks when I try to grip it. Even with work gloves on, this thing is impossible to turn.
Okay, here is a question. Can you make this top a fully manual top without the hydraulics and faults? I purchased this car seeing the clean Carfax and from a dealer known in IL to be one of the best. But since buying it, I have spend over $5k fixing things that didn’t show up on the Carfax and the dealer “didn’t see.” Money spent on this car will never be recouped. But I enjoy the car and plan on keeping it for a while and pass it down to my son in 5 years.
Broken front axles. Replaced coolant system, rear struts and shocks, front struts, serpentine belt, tires and brakes (which I knew I needed to do) and a bevy of other items. The car drove beautifully on the test drive and top worked. I know, I should have had a mechanic look at it, but live and learn.
So, now that the car is spotless and about 50% brand new, I want to enjoy it with the top down. Doesn’t work. I have owned 6 convertibles before, not one with Auto top. So if it is fully manual, I am very OK with it.
The biggest problem I am having now is the key function on the lid is absolutely IMPOSSIBLE to turn without destroying my hand or spending 20 minutes each time. It is incredibly hard to turn to unlatch and re-latch it. Is this normal? I have lubricated every moving piece of it that I can see and it still does not turn unless I put a large channel lock plier on the key and turn with both hands. Is the key bad? One of the posts bent? Have I had all my strength drained from me sitting in the car due to kryptonite in the seats? The front is no issue, the back, holy moses it is hard to turn. And the whole red handle part turning concept is flawed drastically. It does not stay in place when you turn the key clockwise (probably because it is old) and digs into my hand. In the last week fighting this thing, I have drawn blood on both hands on 3 separate occasions due to it and not putting gloves on.
It should not be that hard. If that key on the back latch turned easily, I would be enjoying this car immensely.
Broken front axles. Replaced coolant system, rear struts and shocks, front struts, serpentine belt, tires and brakes (which I knew I needed to do) and a bevy of other items. The car drove beautifully on the test drive and top worked. I know, I should have had a mechanic look at it, but live and learn.
So, now that the car is spotless and about 50% brand new, I want to enjoy it with the top down. Doesn’t work. I have owned 6 convertibles before, not one with Auto top. So if it is fully manual, I am very OK with it.
The biggest problem I am having now is the key function on the lid is absolutely IMPOSSIBLE to turn without destroying my hand or spending 20 minutes each time. It is incredibly hard to turn to unlatch and re-latch it. Is this normal? I have lubricated every moving piece of it that I can see and it still does not turn unless I put a large channel lock plier on the key and turn with both hands. Is the key bad? One of the posts bent? Have I had all my strength drained from me sitting in the car due to kryptonite in the seats? The front is no issue, the back, holy moses it is hard to turn. And the whole red handle part turning concept is flawed drastically. It does not stay in place when you turn the key clockwise (probably because it is old) and digs into my hand. In the last week fighting this thing, I have drawn blood on both hands on 3 separate occasions due to it and not putting gloves on.
It should not be that hard. If that key on the back latch turned easily, I would be enjoying this car immensely.
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Pulled the fuse. Disconnected motor and hydraulics. Removed hydraulic pistons on top. Lubricated Latch mechanism on lid and above windshield. Lubricated all points on top. Worked all lubrication in. Dremel tooled the sharp edges on latch key and sanded. I now have a manual top saving me thousands and endless headaches. Top opens and closes much easier. Latch locks and unlocks easier, but still a little difficult. But 10x easier than before. Took a drive today with wife and son, listens to some Michael McDermott and enjoyed the 70 degree day. Popped the top up in about 2 minutes without pain or swearing. All is good again.
Apparently, pulling the fuse also disables the rear defroster. DoH! Ah, who needs it when it is warm out. I got about 6 months to figure out how to disable the constant warnings about the roof and still have the read defroster work. 
I kinda think if you replaced the motor it may just work for you again. I think sometimes even cleaning the brushes isn't a fail safe way of fixing motor issues. Some online companies give you money back when you return your old one. Key on yours definitely seems odd. Mine was a piece of cake to rotate. Good luck, and keep the updates coming.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Hi,
great thread with a lot of valuable information. Thanks!
Nevertheless, I have one problem. Maybe someone can help.
I disassembled the electric motor and cleaned the contacts as described. I am now having troubles getting the case of the electric motor back on. I have marked the position with a marker on the outside, but it does not work. I think the magnets inside the case pull/push the motor shaft out of the center, so that the shaft is not aligned in the middle and therefore the case does not slide down all the way.
Anybody having the same problem? Or is there any trick to get the case back onto the electric motor?
I would be grateful for any hint. Thanks.
great thread with a lot of valuable information. Thanks!
Nevertheless, I have one problem. Maybe someone can help.
I disassembled the electric motor and cleaned the contacts as described. I am now having troubles getting the case of the electric motor back on. I have marked the position with a marker on the outside, but it does not work. I think the magnets inside the case pull/push the motor shaft out of the center, so that the shaft is not aligned in the middle and therefore the case does not slide down all the way.
Anybody having the same problem? Or is there any trick to get the case back onto the electric motor?
I would be grateful for any hint. Thanks.
I know what you mean, Roland, as on the four occasions I've had to replace my cover there was always a clunk as the powerful magnets grabbed it. However, provided the cover position was correctly marked prior to disassembly it should be relatively easy to waggle it into position and draw it back together using the long bolts. I don't recall it being a problem.
So far as I'm aware (from personal experience and what I've read on this thread) cleaning the commutator and freeing the stuck brushes is only a temporary fix and even a brand new motor will eventually succumb to the same fault. The only solution for peace of mind is to fit a set of VagPro's brushes and modified holders for about £50.
Hi, thanks for your support. Meanwhile I managed to get the cover back on again. What helped was to put some grease onto the end of the motor shaft. And the best thing: The roof works again. YES! Many thanks to VagPro‘s write up!
Nevertheless, I also expect that this will not be the end of it and that the problem will occur again.
Marklar, you mentioned some brushes and modified holders. Do you have a source where to get them? Thanks.
Great news, mate! I'm pleased you got it sorted in the end.
I bought the kit on eBay; here's a link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A4-...urbishment-Repair-Kit-8H0959755A/333165185536
If you look back in this thread to August 2017, you'll see my comments on doing the job.
I bought the kit on eBay; here's a link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A4-...urbishment-Repair-Kit-8H0959755A/333165185536
If you look back in this thread to August 2017, you'll see my comments on doing the job.
Hi Mark, thanks for the link to the repair kit. I really would like to purchase it and get the problem fixed for good. Unfortunately they ship worldwide except to Germany. In the description it says „NOTE: WE DO NOT OFFER THIS PRODUCT IN GERMANY“. I wonder why ....
I hope my current fix will last a long time. Otherwise I will just have to redo it again or purchase a new motor :-( .
I hadn't realised that you were in Germany, Roland, and I also wasn't aware that Vagpro's kits are not available in your country (there must be a good reason) but I'd like to help you if possible.
I don't know how this site works regarding private messages between members and it's never a good idea to exchange personal information in an open forum but I am an administrator on a (German) caravan enthusiasts' web site (www.eribafolk.com) . If you were to join it as 'RolandK' we could use its PM system with which I'm familiar to communicate and come to some arrangement.
I'll look out for your request to join and let you in.
Moderators: Apologies if I'm in any way breaking site protocol here. I'm just trying to help a fellow member with a problem.
Hi Mark, thanks for the generous offer and your willingness to help me out here!
Meanwhile I contacted Vagpro on ebay and it looks like I can get the repair kit! If not, I might come back to you. Maybe also if I need some hints on how to do the repair. I am kind of scared whether I can manage to get the motor spindle out and in again.
Anyway, thanks for your help on this man.
Cheers,
Roland
I recently purchased a 2008 A4 Convertible. When I purchased the vehicle, I knew that the top was inoperable, other than manually. I had the dealer service the vehicle and asked them to diagnose the issue with the top. They said the convertible control top unit (part # 8HO 959 255 B) was bad, and that there might be more wrong after that but they knew that part was at least bad. I purchased that part used, installed it and got the top to cycle down and up once completely and correctly. Since then it only lowers the window half way and unlatches the top. I'm unsure of where to go/check next. Any assistance would be appreciated.
When this happened to mine I replaced with a new motor from eBay seller Roofmotorsdirect for £149.
It's actually very easy with the instructions they supply to replace it and takes about an hour with the right tools (mostly just a socket set).
You can then send the old one back to them for money back as well.
Fixed that issue for me straight away.
It's actually very easy with the instructions they supply to replace it and takes about an hour with the right tools (mostly just a socket set).
You can then send the old one back to them for money back as well.
Fixed that issue for me straight away.
I just replaced the motor/pump with a rebuilt unit (can't recommend Top Hydrualics in the Oregon enough!). Everything is hooked back up and it's still inoperative. I'm getting a "soft top cannot be used" warning in the notifications. Additionally, when I pull the lever, I'm hearing a clicking noise coming from the convertible control top unit (which I replaced with a used unit before replacing the motor/pump).
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I am happy that I have find so good forum about cabrio problems. I have Audi A4 B6 cabrio and lately I have problem with roof top. When I press roof open button windows drops down and procedure stops. I have tried manually opening and closing the roof in order to reset it, but it has had no effect. When i switch the engine on the roof operation light on the dash flashes for approximately 5 seconds. Could please write me what is the problem according to you?
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Hi, I have 03245 code, and typical motor failure symptoms on my a4 b7 roof.
So pretty sure I need to clean and free the motor brushes.
BTW is this a temporary fix or am I better off getting the full refurb motor service from ebay?
Anyway, none of the links to the images in the instructions on page 1 seem to be working now. Is there a newer guide anywhere?
So pretty sure I need to clean and free the motor brushes.
BTW is this a temporary fix or am I better off getting the full refurb motor service from ebay?
Anyway, none of the links to the images in the instructions on page 1 seem to be working now. Is there a newer guide anywhere?
I cleaned and eased the brushes in my motor three times so I think I'm safe saying that it is definitely a temporary fix.
Since I replaced the bushes and holders in 2017 I have had no further problems with the roof operation despite having given it a lot of use, so my recommendation would be to buy and fit the replacement parts.
Ok, I've got my motor out. One brush is a little sticky in its movement.
Is there anything I can use for a bit of lubrication, silicone spray maybe?
Also, my fluid is between the min and the middle line. Should I top it up and what exactly is this fluid?
Is there anything I can use for a bit of lubrication, silicone spray maybe?
Also, my fluid is between the min and the middle line. Should I top it up and what exactly is this fluid?
Hi, I seem to have the same problem with the soft top and looking at cleaning or renewing the brushes etc. You mention
hi, I think I have the same problem and looking at cleaning or renewing the brushes but the link doesn’t work anymore on eBay. It’s also mentioned about vagcom I think but unsure who that it. Would like to sort out my roof before the summer hehe. Thank you
Hi VagPro, think I need to clean or renew the brushes can you please help me as lots of info but like 22 pages of it to work out and some of the links and photos don’t show up.
Wondering if anyone can assist as my soft top only opens a little and I then have to complete it manually. I have looked through some of this thread and I have got to the motor as per attached photos and wondering if the gauges could be the problem or if it does need the brushes to be cleaned. I’m not very mechanically minded so unsure if they are meant to look like this or not? Any advice would be appreciated thank you.
Attachments
Mine has jst gone again., after 9 months. Roof has probably done 30ish cyles since I cleaned the brushes.
Think I'll use the £89 ebay repair service this time (2yr warranty). Anyone, had experience of this service?
Or buy the rpalcement bush kit (£52), just soldering skills required I think?
Probably go for £89 option with warranty, I think.
Think I'll use the £89 ebay repair service this time (2yr warranty). Anyone, had experience of this service?
Or buy the rpalcement bush kit (£52), just soldering skills required I think?
Probably go for £89 option with warranty, I think.
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Have you the link? The one on ebay, you have to send your motor out first, which becomes more of a logistical headache.
The carbon brushes are inside the rectangular copper tubes (carriers), they should be able to move freely back and forward in the carriers but what usually happens is one or both get stuck. Using a small flat headed screwdriver carefully (they can break) try prying the carriers open slightly to free the brushes and also clean the carbon deposits off the motor using glass paper.
I carried out this fix 4 or 5 times, it always worked but the period between breakdowns got shorter and shorter and always seemed to happen at the worst time.
I eventually solved the problem by sending the motor to Vagpro for the upgraded brush kit. It's been fine for a few years now and was well worth the money.
