Audi A4 Cabriolet Soft Top/ Roof / Hood Motor Repair Guide

[d33p]

Hello,

Thanks for your reply.

I double checked whether everything was closed as you had enquired. I did a manual open and discovered that just beside the windscreen (when windscreen Is lifted up) that the switch (see pics) has snapped.

Could this be the cause? The switch is no longer able to function due to the crack. There is no electrical break, is this a cheap part or worth super-gluing?

I will also run the MVB and post the readings up shortly.

Many thanks!
Deep

 

[d33p]

Hello again,

I removed the switch by pulling out the plug and unscrewing the single screw that holds the switch to the hood assembly.

I bought some super glue (for plastic) and glued the 2 broken pieces together.

I just put the switch back on to the roof assembly, inserted the plug and hey presto! Roof is working again!

I'm not sure how long this fix will last as something has caused it to break in the past. The plastic is quite flimsy so I shall enquire from Audi how much this part costs.

Thanks for the inspiration.

Best wishes
Deep

 

[Arcer]

Ehi vagpro!!! Don't forget to take foto or video when you free the brushes!!! Thank you

 

[VagPro]

Hello again,

I removed the switch by pulling out the plug and unscrewing the single screw that holds the switch to the hood assembly.

I bought some super glue (for plastic) and glued the 2 broken pieces together.

I just put the switch back on to the roof assembly, inserted the plug and hey presto! Roof is working again!

I'm not sure how long this fix will last as something has caused it to break in the past. The plastic is quite flimsy so I shall enquire from Audi how much this part costs.

Thanks for the inspiration.

Best wishes
Deep

incorrect manual operation broke the bow position sensor, New one is 66 plus vat. make sure you perform basic settings after fitting new sensor.

 

[d33p]

In which case, I'm not sure how that broke, as I only ever did a manual operation when the roof jammed. That would lead me to believe that the roof was originally failing for another reason. I'm hoping it was the motor as I have already cleaned that up as a precaution

I shall be sure to perform the 'basic settings' although I'm not sure I understand what this involves!!.

Thanks again,

incorrect manual operation broke the bow position sensor, New one is 66 plus vat. make sure you perform basic settings after fitting new sensor.

 

[Steveiejay]

Hi Warrren, prying apart the carriers should stop the problem reoccurring, let me know how you get on and if you need anything drop me a line.

When you say prying the carriers apart can you elaborate please bro?

I understand you have to slide the brushed in the carriers up and down and perhaps oil light with
wd40 so they regain their spring but do u have to widen the carrier then? so it is not so tight?

 

[VagPro]

Hello,

No WD40, just widen them....

 

[Arcer]

Hello,

No WD40, just widen them....

Widen the carriers?

 

[Arcer]

Ehi vag did you have do some roof regeneration?

 

[VagPro]

Just wondering if the roof mechanism needs routine lubrication - if so, which parts, what type of lubricant and roughly how often ?

Noticed mine is getting a tad clunky/creaky......but maybe its just the hot weather or (more likely) just me.

Hi, I use silicon spray on all rubber seals, apart from that if you suspect a dry linkage, a bit of grease wont hurt it.

 

[GoneSouth]

Hi, I use silicon spray on all rubber seals, apart from that if you suspect a dry linkage, a bit of grease wont hurt it.

Thanks VagPro.

I already use silicon spray on the seals. Will have a look at the linkages and (carefully) apply a little spray grease as required.
.

 

[Arcer]

Vaaaaaaaag do you remember to take a pic when you free brushes ?? Thank you

 

[Spugs]

Hi all,

I, like so many here, am really wishing I'd looked this up before taking my car into Audi yesterday… My problem is as listed with many here, the windows open and roof unlatches and raises a couple of inches before stopping. This has happened after a few instances of the roof lowering, but not raising, which I seemed to remedy through a friendly tap with the hammer (!) or manually pulling the roof up with the ignition on. So it now appears to have progressed to not lowering…

The Audi service place said it needs a new motor but also a 'position potentiometer' (or similar), which sounds like he was trying to baffle me with long words to me… any thoughts?

I'm not sure about fault codes, no fault lights were appearing and I didn't test power supply with a multimeter.

The question is whether I should get the car back from the garage (having paid the £99 'consultation fee') and try to do the motor trick rather than pay the best part of £1000 total quote. I would have done this without second thought had he not mentioned an apparent issue with one of the sensors aswell…

Help gratefully received!!

 

[VagPro]

Hi,

If it's the roof opening an inch just like the videos on my site then it's only the motor and not the complete hydraulic pump ! I can pretty much bet my life on it.

If the bow position sensor was faulty then you would get an implausible signal and the roof would not open.

Audi should not charge you anything for giving an incorrect diagnosis as an OEM.

I'm happy to go show them what the problem is !! Lol

Regards
Khurrum
www.audiconvertiblespecialist.co.uk

 

[GoneSouth]

Looked at lubricating the roof mechanism/frame but all joints have nylon washers so just gave them a touch of silicone spray.

Also got hold of some gummi pflege so gave all roof and door seals a coating. The sponge tip of the bottle makes it quick and easy to apply, with less mess than a spray.

Hopefully it'll help keep the rain out during these heavy showers.
.

 

[davidmbell]

Hello all, I am not new to AudiSport forum having had an A3 up until Monday of this week when it sold to its new owner : ( ( https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidmbell/sets/72157645843392621/ )

Anyway, the reason I am here is I am now looking for an A4 Cab - I'm after an 06 onwards, 2.0Tdi, S-Line, ideally with Bose and xenons.

Where's the best place for advice? This section of the site seems to cover all versions of the B7, so wondered should I head to a particular thread, or another site?

Is there a "what to look for" thread on the B7 Cab anywhere?

Kind of looking for known issues etc. Having experienced a fair few issues with my A3 (BKD engine/DSG) I'd like to be aware of what I might be buying into with a B7?

Thanks v much,

David

 

[GoneSouth]

If you've been a member since December, and already experienced Audi (A3) ownership, then you've probably picked up on many issues already.

The Cabriolets are the same as any other B7....the only difference is the roof and its mechanism, which is fairly robust - in fact most of its quirks are mentioned above in this thread. Just make sure that you test the roof both up and down and check for tares and evidence of water leaks. I'd also familiarise yourself with the emergency procedure for manually raising and lowering the roof as I guess all owners could be faced with having to do this at some point. A wind deflector helps when driving at speed with the roof down.

There is plenty of info in the B7 section about problems with the 2.0 TDI engines, most involve the older chain driven oil pumps, the hex drive on the oil pump balance shaft, and injector problems on the 170bhp model (for which a recall was issued). If you can find an example with full service history and gear driven oil pump thats had the balance shaft upgraded, then you're halfway to hassle free ownership. (yes, I know, I'm being optimistic there)

Most of the engine problems are exasperated by lengthy service intervals so (as with any TDI engine) the more frequent the oil changes the better. Also, I'd avoid short journeys and supermarket fuel as this will help avoid clogging up the EGR valve (and inlet manifold).

The multi-tronic gearbox can be prone to problems and expensive to fix. The manual 6 speed is fine, but dual mass flywheels can cause vibration and premature clutch wear.

That just leaves the ride which (in S-Line mode) can be harsh on rippled surfaces and cause the side windows to rattle. Perhaps consider test driving the SE/Sport and S-Line to compare the ride.

Now if that lot hasn't frightened you off.....get out there and bag yourself what is still a very competent and desirable (4 seater) Cabriolet.

Almost forgot.....check if cambelt and water pump have been changed as most will have hit that milestone by now.
.

 

[davidmbell]

Brilliant thanks for this!

 

[davidmbell]

BTW you mentioned 170? Didn't realise cab was available in 170brake tdi? How do I know that a car is a 170?

 

[GoneSouth]

You're right, I don't think it the 170 appeared in the cab - merely mentioned as a recognised fault on the 2.0tdi.

If you google "Audi A4 Cabriolet brochure pdf" you can download the old brochure and that should provide more info on the range. I think the brochure is for the 2007 model year on but its basically about the B7 cab.

Just to stay on thread, the same search criteria (+roof) will also bring up documents on the roof mechanism (self study programme) and roof parts diagram/list by volks city I think.

Hope that helps.
.

 

[Ferretktf]

Hello,

Given that the vehicle is older than '06 I doubt it is the hydraulic motor fault. Chances are the front top locking motor at the windscreen is faulty. Check the power to it with a multimeter.

Also on VCDS the button I click on is called "Auto Roof"

I am planning on being in south London on the 2nd August.

Regards
Khurrum

Hello Again

I have finally managed to run the VCDS on the hood problem and received the following :-

01996 - Convertible Top Lock Switch (F294); Open


008 - Implausible Signal


I cleared the codes and tried the Hood again

Same as before - the windows dropped but the hood did not rise - ran the VCDS again and same code as above


The measuring blocks are :-

Convertible Top	Switches &&	Switches &&	Top Frame		Vehicle Speed	Voltage	Rear Lid	Window Regulator
Control Switch	Positions I	Positions II	Position (G356)			(Terminal 30)	Contact Switch	Operation
					km/h	V
Not Oper.	11011010	10 1010	238	0.15	0	11.8	Lid close	0

What are my next steps please?

Thanks

 

[VagPro]

Hello Again

I have finally managed to run the VCDS on the hood problem and received the following :-

01996 - Convertible Top Lock Switch (F294); Open


008 - Implausible Signal


I cleared the codes and tried the Hood again

Same as before - the windows dropped but the hood did not rise - ran the VCDS again and same code as above


The measuring blocks are :-

Convertible Top	Switches &&	Switches &&	Top Frame		Vehicle Speed	Voltage	Rear Lid	Window Regulator
Control Switch	Positions I	Positions II	Position (G356)			(Terminal 30)	Contact Switch	Operation
					km/h	V
Not Oper.	11011010	10 1010	238	0.15	0	11.8	Lid close	0

What are my next steps please?

Thanks

Next step is as per my last message, check power to Top Lock Motor using multimeter.

You can also try opening roof with key at windscreen and see if it continues with the sequence.

Regards
Khurrum

 

[Ferretktf]

Next step is as per my last message, check power to Top Lock Motor using multimeter.

You can also try opening roof with key at windscreen and see if it continues with the sequence.

Regards
Khurrum

thanks Khurrum ... i will do this -- will have to purchase a multimeter first so there will be a delay before i can respond again.... however where is the top lock motor situated ... in the hood itself or at the top of the windscreen?

 

[VagPro]

thanks Khurrum ... i will do this -- will have to purchase a multimeter first so there will be a delay before i can respond again.... however where is the top lock motor situated ... in the hood itself or at the top of the windscreen?

Hi,

Yes it's the one that locks the roof to the windscreen, if you open the lock with the manual key and the roof works, that could indicate it's the top lock motor that is faulty.

Multimeters cheap on eBay.

 

[Ferretktf]

Hi,

Yes it's the one that locks the roof to the windscreen, if you open the lock with the manual key and the roof works, that could indicate it's the top lock motor that is faulty.

Multimeters cheap on eBay.

ok, i manually unlocked the front locks with the key - and then tried the switch and YES - the hood did go back all the way and tucked into the boot box. Unfortunately the sequence did not quite complete though .. the boot box lid would not close automatically

I then tried to automatically close from that position but although the hood moved into position, the boot box lid was still up and so i had to revert to a manual closure.

After resetting the codes i then tried to repeat the whole process to see if it happened again - this time however there was no movement from the hood when the top locks were manually undone. Maybe this is because it now requires a full manual reset??

So yes i do now need to focus on the top lock motor perhaps (although the boot lbox id is a little worrying)

How do i access the top lock motor - do i undo the nine screws and remove the plastic guard at the front of the roof?

 

[VagPro]

The forks are meant to close when it stores away. That's why the sequence didn't complete.

Need a new top lock motor, yes screws out. Obviously test in bench.

Not cheap unfortunately, 180+ I think.

I may have a batch coming from Germany. So contact me when you've tested it.

 

[Ferretktf]

The forks are meant to close when it stores away. That's why the sequence didn't complete.

Need a new top lock motor, yes screws out. Obviously test in bench.

Not cheap unfortunately, 180+ I think.

I may have a batch coming from Germany. So contact me when you've tested it.

ahh - you mean the forks that lock it to the front - funny thing is when i put it back up manually - when they got to the front the forks were closed - but i did not do it manually! I had to manually open them before i could close the hood for locking!

I have ordered the multimeter - never used one before so may need advice when it arrives - such as if i remove the motor how do i supply power to it "on the bench"

I am on holiday from 18th to 29th August so may not be able to test until my return. However if it is the top lock motor then yes, would certainly be interested in utilizing your services!

 

[SteveMcB]

Hi Khurrum,
Suffered from the dreaded 3" pop up again today! Stripped motor as per your guide, brushes were free (although I prised the carriers a bit further anyway) but commutator was quite dirty. It was actually a relief to see this but I was a bit surprised as it's only about a year since I cleaned it.
After a rub up with 400 grade all is working again (that's 2 pints I'm owe you) but was wondering if it's normal for the motor to get so dirty in such a short time, or are my brushes maybe on the way out.
cheers
Steve.

 

[VagPro]

Hi Steve,

Weird indeed, only thing I can think of is that the carriers weren't pried apart far enough and the brushes were sticking.

 

[Arcer]

Vag i don't know how to free my brushes!!!

 

[SteveMcB]

Fingers crossed that was the case mate, although thanks to your guide it's actually no great drama now, took me less than an hour start to finish, that included 10 minutes of fruitless attempts to get the jack cover to clip back on - is it just me or is that impossible!

To Arcer, there's photos on page 1, just put a small screwdriver in the gap up the side of the carrier and twist it slightly.

 

[GoneSouth]

that included 10 minutes of fruitless attempts to get the jack cover to clip back on - is it just me or is that impossible!
.

Getting the jack in the correct position so the box lid will close correctly ??? What a pain. So much so I took a photo for reference when I got it back in.

I hang my head in shame.....but soooooooo glad it isn't just me
.

 

[SteveMcB]

Getting the jack in the correct position so the box lid will close correctly ??? What a pain. So much so I took a photo for reference when I got it back in.

I hang my head in shame.....but soooooooo glad it isn't just me
.

Any chance (before I resort to the angle grinder) that you could post that photo, I've tried every conceivable position but to no avail, it's been bugging me for ages.

 

[Arcer]

Fingers crossed that was the case mate, although thanks to your guide it's actually no great drama now, took me less than an hour start to finish, that included 10 minutes of fruitless attempts to get the jack cover to clip back on - is it just me or is that impossible!

To Arcer, there's photos on page 1, just put a small screwdriver in the gap up the side of the carrier and twist it slightly.

i can't see photos

 

[GoneSouth]

You may need to log in to the site to see all the images.
.

 

[Arcer]

Jay,

I opened mine up over the weekend and found the same problem again (dirty commutator). When checking the brushes I found that one of the brushes was not moving freely in the carrier, leading to poor contact and in turn more arcing. I have since then put a drop of WD 40 on the brush carrier and worked it free. (See white arrow)

You mean this image?

 

[steevo67]

VagPro, the images in the original post aren't showing up. Could you please repost or send them to me. This is a very useful thread, thanks

 

[Laura peel]

Hi VagPro,
I am having issues with the roof of my audi (a4 06 s-line cab)
The first time around i had a similar issue a few months back as many above...the windows come down but the roof only lifted an inch up. Took it in and they said that if its not used for a long period of time then it can seize up ...it wasn't the motor so didn't take that much to get it fixed...until today.
It got stuck all the way down - boot lifted an inch then nothing. I struggled to manually shut it myself so had to call upon the RAC to manually shut it. He said he wasn't an expert but didn't think he could here the motor.
Does this sound like the issue?
Not sure how much a new motor would be (??) if this is the problem do i just suck it up and pay a garage to fix it?
Thanks so much hope you can help!
Laura

 

[canada g]

Hello VagPro,

A canadian 2007 audi a4 convertible owner with the same problem discribed like on the first video of your website. I was able to remove the interior trim in the trunk but now I need an extension to be able to remove the nuts of the motor/pump. Before I go further investigating on the motor do you still have the pictures of the part where you dismantle and clean the motor? Or does it explains itself once the motor is open. Never opened a motor for a repair before but not affraid to do the work.

thanks

 

[canada g]

It's already fixed. Thanks