Audi A4 2.5 Tdi snarling 2003
- Thread starter Audiaudi
- Start date
Update: rac have been advised banks 4 5 6 are all not getting enough fuel from their system. There is also knocking noise but this could be a symptom.
Could this be the fuel pump/ timing or camshaft? Any ideas would be appreciated?
Could this be the fuel pump/ timing or camshaft? Any ideas would be appreciated?
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You need to get VCDS onto and see what the injectors are doing. It could be blocked injectors or fuel delivery that is causing the issue.
Would the needle lift sensor failure cause this issue does anyone know?
Would the needle lift sensor failure cause this issue does anyone know?
You need a scan as S4Dan said, however.
If you pull off the cover you can see the clear fuel line going to the pump - check for bubbles whilst it's running to see if air is getting in through the filter T piece.
When was the last fuel filter change?
Check the return lines on the side that's bad are not perished/leaking.
Both of these problems would also normally make starting a little slow.
Is the car up to temp (90) or is it 60-70 on the gauge?
The cold start will be active if the temp is too low.
Be prepared to do a reasonable amount of diagnostic checking before you buy anything - fix-by-replace on these engines gets expensive!
If you pull off the cover you can see the clear fuel line going to the pump - check for bubbles whilst it's running to see if air is getting in through the filter T piece.
When was the last fuel filter change?
Check the return lines on the side that's bad are not perished/leaking.
Both of these problems would also normally make starting a little slow.
Is the car up to temp (90) or is it 60-70 on the gauge?
The cold start will be active if the temp is too low.
Be prepared to do a reasonable amount of diagnostic checking before you buy anything - fix-by-replace on these engines gets expensive!
Darran
Registered User
Hi
Been to the garage and have made another vid as requested:
The mechanic on banks 456 opened the injector pipes and the engine changed its tune pointing to the fact it has diesel. Looked at the clear line and has no bubbles.
Been to the garage and have made another vid as requested:
The mechanic on banks 456 opened the injector pipes and the engine changed its tune pointing to the fact it has diesel. Looked at the clear line and has no bubbles.
That bank you/mechanic is at is theo/s bank serving cylinders 1-3 not 4-6.
As Dan & Paul have said you need to get VCDS it and do some proper diagnostics. All that video shows is a rattly Diesel engine.
Measuring blocks 13 &14 in engine module show the injector imbalance - this will tell you what they are doing.
Could be a timing issue, VCDS will tell you if the timing is off at all. Has the timing belt been changed recently?
Frnak
As Dan & Paul have said you need to get VCDS it and do some proper diagnostics. All that video shows is a rattly Diesel engine.
Measuring blocks 13 &14 in engine module show the injector imbalance - this will tell you what they are doing.
Could be a timing issue, VCDS will tell you if the timing is off at all. Has the timing belt been changed recently?
Frnak
Apologies for the update taking off the cover it looks like the timing belt is loose this was changed 6 months ago and hoing the valves have not been damaged?
The mechanic says he will open up the front end and see where the fault lies tensioner or some other component.
The mechanic says he will open up the front end and see where the fault lies tensioner or some other component.
It was the ntn tensioner that failed. The bolt on the tensioner snapped 
1) Now not sure if we the part was from euro parts but think they may not cover it and say the bold may have been over tightened. Has anybody ever made a claim.
2) as the car still starts. Is it worth buying another kit and having it replaced just to see if the valves are not bent? Or will it just misfire? And maybe a bigger job.
Any experience will be helpful.
1) Now not sure if we the part was from euro parts but think they may not cover it and say the bold may have been over tightened. Has anybody ever made a claim.
2) as the car still starts. Is it worth buying another kit and having it replaced just to see if the valves are not bent? Or will it just misfire? And maybe a bigger job.
Any experience will be helpful.
Darran
Registered User
If it was hitting valves you would have heard it, try another kit and retime it, nothing to loose.Open the oil filler cap and see if there is way to much pressure coming out (inlet valves bent will create more pressure) , if its hit exhausts you will tell by emissions or lambda test on vcds.
UPDATE AND CLOSE - The issue was the tentioner bolt had snapped and sheared off after been replaced. and hence the belt jumped a few teath. The tentioner was by gates and i would not recommend using this brand of tensioner as they did not provide any support or refund as a result of the damages caused.
The Tensioner bolt won't snap if torqued up correctly, The tension required to do that is well over the recommended torque level.
They have to assume that some ham fisted mechanic had fitted it and over tightened it. Or just reused the old bolt.
Karl.
They have to assume that some ham fisted mechanic had fitted it and over tightened it. Or just reused the old bolt.
Karl.
Exactly how I found mine.
I had to run a helicoil into the oil pump housing as it had also damaged the tread. It causes the belt to run on an angle & jump. Luckily the ally housing stops the belt from instantly jumping off
I had to run a helicoil into the oil pump housing as it had also damaged the tread. It causes the belt to run on an angle & jump. Luckily the ally housing stops the belt from instantly jumping off
