Audi A3 1.9 TDI 8P Electrical fault?

[DeanW]

Hey people of Audi-sport.net,
I have some sort of electric problem I think please bear with me. My lights are dimming/flickering cluster and dash lights mainly worse than main headlights etc when idle.
Some days worse than other I.e humid damp condition it seems worse. When using electrics Windows or changing climate control settings the problem is worse sometimes everything on dash goes off for slight second. But when I am driving I don't seem to get any flickering.
I have checked battery connections with voltimeter when engine not running I get 11.5 - 12 v then check with engine running and I get 13.5 - 14 v I will check again later for more accurate result as I did this last week but know the readings were around these numbers.

I bought the car like it is and has HID lights which noticed one of the ballast are different to the other, car has led interior panel light upgrades which stay lit dim even when all doors are shut so you have to turn interior lights off for them to complletley go out. It has led panel bulbs in number plate lights too.
Would any of the above cause these flickering of lights in and out of the car? When I flash someone out sometimes I get the dipped headlight beam error on dash and the left headlight goes out and have to turn headlight off then on to get it back lit up.

Are all these upgrade etc causing this electrical problem? If so I will rip all aftermarket lights out and replace with standerd bulbs etc.
I still need to check ground connections but could do with some help as to were they all are if you people coul help me this would be great.
Thanks in advance
Dean

 

[DeanW]

Bump

 

[DeanW]

Really? No one going to help me? When engine as warmed up it near enough stops flickering? Please people

 

[Marty92]

I wonder if the battery is of a sufficient Ah for all the extras, long shot. Also 11.5-12v off load seems low 13.5-14 engine running sounds fine, a reading whilst using things might be useful flashing lights etc.

 

[DeanW]

I wonder if the battery is of a sufficient Ah for all the extras, long shot. Also 11.5-12v off load seems low 13.5-14 engine running sounds fine, a reading whilst using things might be useful flashing lights etc.

Hey there Marty,
Thanks for your reply I have just done more test like you say here's the results:
12.66v Engine off
13.77 - 13.82v Engine runing idle only
12.50 -13.30v main beam on, foglights on, inside cabin on full and the radiator fan also kicked in and went to the lowest value but then pick ed back up again because of the engine rpms increasing due to the load I presume? Hope this info helps. Thanks again. Dean

 

[DeanW]

Hey there Marty,
Thanks for your reply I have just done more test like you say here's the results:
12.66v Engine off
13.77 - 13.82v Engine runing idle only
12.50 -13.30v main beam on, foglights on, inside cabin on full and the radiator fan also kicked in and went to the lowest value but then pick ed back up again because of the engine rpms increasing due to the load I presume? Hope this info helps. Thanks again. Dean

Sorry to bump this but I need help with this problem seems to be getting worse the flickering of lights now.
In the dark when reversing you can see the reflections of the lights dimming when braking , indicating, reversing etc.
Will it be a new alternator or is it my battery?
Thanks in advance people.
Dean

 

[Mujnu]

Sorry to bump this but I need help with this problem seems to be getting worse the flickering of lights now.
In the dark when reversing you can see the reflections of the lights dimming when braking , indicating, reversing etc.
Will it be a new alternator or is it my battery?
Thanks in advance people.
Dean

Firstly I'd get rid of the HIDS, they cause a lot of A3 wiper motors to blow, so better to use a good set of bulbs eg Philips xtreme vision, than run the risk of paying out to fix a wiper motor. The xtreme vision bulbs are not yellow either, they're more white than standard halogen bulbs but a lot better output.

If your battery isn't the problem, it may be the alternator belt and pulley? Better to do the cheaper fix first and if that fails then it may be the alternator. I had a problem with my A3 1.9tdi, when I used a lot of the electrics the car would start revving and that was because it couldn't keep up with the voltage requirement due to a worn alternator belt and pulley, which is cheaper than an alternator lol. I paid £105 from a VAG specialist, that's parts and labour. Just my two cents, maybe someone with more knowledge will give theirs too.

 

[d2w]

Do these electrical problems occur ONLY with the engine running? Or also with key on position #1 WITHOUT engine running?


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[Mujnu]

Do these electrical problems occur ONLY with the engine running? Or also with key on position #1 WITHOUT engine running?


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It used to only happen to me when the engine was running on idle.

 

[DeanW]

Do these electrical problems occur ONLY with the engine running? Or also with key on position #1 WITHOUT engine running?


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Yea it only does it when engine is running and not with just ignition on. . Thanks Dean

 

[DeanW]

It used to only happen to me when the engine was running on idle.

What was the problem did you ever find out and fix it? Cheers. Dean

 

[Mujnu]

What was the problem did you ever find out and fix it? Cheers. Dean

Yes I told you above lol it was the alternator belt and pulley. Check post #7, all the info there.

 

[d2w]

Am no expert so can never offer you complete certainty. That said, I agree it doesn't look good for your alternator and/or pulley/belt.

Before you spend big bucks on it, you might be able to further rule out other electric faults cheaply.

A VCDS (or similar) scan can point out some electrical faults.

You can remove suspect items and see whether your symptoms improve.

If none of this works, at least you know you did all you could before you spend your hard-earned cash at the garage.


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[Mujnu]

Am no expert so can never offer you complete certainty. That said, I agree it doesn't look good for your alternator and/or pulley/belt.

Before you spend big bucks on it, you might be able to further rule out other electric faults cheaply.

A VCDS (or similar) scan can point out some electrical faults.

You can remove suspect items and see whether your symptoms improve.

If none of this works, at least you know you did all you could before you spend your hard-earned cash at the garage.


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I was getting you and the OP mixed up lol but I totally agree with getting your can scanned. Make sure to take the code down, that way you can post it here or even search using that code on Google and it'll throw up threads in relation to it.