Audi 55reg quattro load vibrating at 2 thousands revs

bmh.01 said:
The propshafts used on the Audi's are both two piece so it's difficult to say as the only difference on a haldex A3 between the two shafts is the type of center joint used.

Audi don't supply a separate coupling for the later shaft and state that it must be changed as a complete unit but the joints are identical and can be changed on both it's just that Audi only supply a complete unit.

Also be aware the front and rear joints are different so make sure you have the correct one, the fronts are usually a lot cheaper.

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Great! Thanks for the answer.
That made me feel much better. :)

I will probably try to change it tomorrow.
I will update when I am done!
 
Hello again!

I did replace the flex disc today, and it was actually pretty easy, took about 3 hours, and I did not stress.
And the result is just as I hoped, vibrations are gone and the car is a whole lot nicer to drive.
Just as it should be.

Took some pictures, I did forgot to photograph the new disc, but you all know how it looks.

download


download


A couple of more pictures are available here on this link, but I did not take that much pictures.
http://thedude.ath.cx/gallery3/inde...ren/Skoda-Octavia-Scout-08/Byte-av-hardyskiva

Thanks for the help!
 
Hi Folks, amazed this thread's still going but it's great people are managing to get these now at an affordable price and other suppliers are getting them in. The bit about degradation, you normally don't see anything, it's just the rubber hardens over time and then the doughnut doesn't flex doughnut to absorb the vibrations, so you feel them through the car. When I was looking for one all the Febi-Bilstein ones were fronts but there's no reason for them not to do rears as well and I personally wouldn't have an issue with quality if they did. I think from my experience Lemforder go out of stock of hem and then suppliers tell you they are no longer available and rubbish like that, it just means they have finished the last batch they made and need to make another, then they re-appear like magic, so much mis and crap-information.
Sorry I haven't been around, not that I am any kind of expert anyway but I have been having computer problems and problems logging on here in particular, it's not fixed yet, I just have a work around :)
 
A19quattro said:
Hi Folks, amazed this thread's still going but it's great people are managing to get these now at an affordable price and other suppliers are getting them in. The bit about degradation, you normally don't see anything, it's just the rubber hardens over time and then the doughnut doesn't flex doughnut to absorb the vibrations, so you feel them through the car. When I was looking for one all the Febi-Bilstein ones were fronts but there's no reason for them not to do rears as well and I personally wouldn't have an issue with quality if they did. I think from my experience Lemforder go out of stock of hem and then suppliers tell you they are no longer available and rubbish like that, it just means they have finished the last batch they made and need to make another, then they re-appear like magic, so much mis and ****-information.
Sorry I haven't been around, not that I am any kind of expert anyway but I have been having computer problems and problems logging on here in particular, it's not fixed yet, I just have a work around :)
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Ok, good old thread resurrection time again :)
I have been getting some vibration again, similar to before but not so bad, so jacked the car up for a look and I was amased by how much my damper is moving, I have never seen one move so much, although from what others were describing before I changed mine it's probably about right. Thing is what seems to be happening is one side must be moving over, more than the other then it jams, if tat makes sense. So if you measured the movement possible between the outer ring and inner ring it's probably about 4mm but say the top moves in the full amount, then sticks in that position, well it's no longer running true and makes perfect sense why it's vibrating.
So I freed it off a bit and that helped but I was concerned maybe it was starting to de-laminate. So next thing was I mentioned it to my Wife and she says "I think I might have the same problem". Well I didn't believe her but a subsequent test drive and jacking up proved the point, it's siezed and she need s a doughnut too. We managed to get one form ECP with their 30% discount for £99.00 and comparing it to mine I don't really see a problem, movement is about the same and the parts where I was worried rubber had come adrift, seem to be like that anyway. Mine is Lemforder and the new one is Febi-Bilstein, extremely hard to see or tell any difference.
So I will spend a bit more time with mine freeing it off and trying to ensure it stays that way and I have another one to fit, deja-vu.
Just thought it was worth posting up to see if anyone else has had similar issues and I may not know much else but I think I am the king of the propshaft dampers :)
 
So I fitted the Wife's damper last night and man did it fight me every step of the way but I got there and she tells me today it's now vibration free, so result. It was amasing how much I forgot about from doing it ast time and with limited time on school night, maybe it wasn't the best idea but at least it's done and it has worked.
 
After reading this on and off for a year, I finally got round to buying and fitting the vibration damper. I got it from Jason at All German Parts with all 6 bolts included. He kindly sent me an email with the torque settings and sorted me with next day delivery. My 57 plate A3 has only done 40k miles and has been causing the drone at just over 2000 rpm for a fair while, I also noticed when pulling away, I would get a jerk or jump after letting the clutch out, felt like a being a learner driver again. Well replacing the damper has improved the drive, got rid of that jerk and no droning noise. I've attached a photo of the torque setting for anyone else needing them. My original damper showed no signs of cracking other than when I pulled it off the propshaft, the rubber tried to seperate from the metal outer ring, so visually you wouldn't of been able to tell there was a problem. Thanks for all the help on this thread.
 

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Cheers Rob, glad to hear you got sorted out and thanks for the additioanl info on the torque settings.
Deffinitely better nowodays than the old "Dealer only part" story and a £330 price tag, think I could bust some more Dealer only parts, Mmmm........
 
Think my 2010 Quattro suffers the same problem, shouldn't be failing this early should it?
Is the rubber cracking easy to spot ?
 
Does this affect the 2008 S3 ? , if i accelerate in 5th or 6th gear from slowish speeds i am getting some vibration through the floor , seems to be coming from the back of the car ,i noticed it slightly when i have my spec 2 +clutch with smf fitted but it seems to have got slightly worst ,just wondering if i could have this donut issue ,its only when under load in high gear and low rpm .
 
My 2011 failed with just 23k on the clock.

SootySport said:
Think my 2010 Quattro suffers the same problem, shouldn't be failing this early should it?
Is the rubber cracking easy to spot ?
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Jps3290 said:
My 2011 failed with just 23k on the clock.
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Um interesting , I am not sure if it's just the SMF or the fact that I have removed the rear seats and it's obviously noisier in the cabin now , I read this thread and it got me thinking .
 
It's quite hard to tell when they fail, especially if it's just and age issue and the rubber has just hardened through time, so no other noticable issues, just the vibration. I did a 2007 2 years or so ago, so you could say easlily 2009s could be needing them by now. The only other one I heard of newer was someone with a tuned S3 and he reconed it was down to the additonal torque and the damper was physically damaged. So basically any car that has 4wd and a similar/same damper and depending to an extent I guess on how it's been treated during it's life, where it's been kept, damp areas maybe getting wet regularly, could have the problem.
The only way you can really check them is to go under the car , preferrably four wheels up as that allows you to rotate the propshaft relatively easily and move the outer ring against the inner, turning it as you go to make sure it's all moving as it should. There should be a good few milimetres of movement, probably 4 or 5mm and some ply-ability in the rubber in between. They can just be seized but freeing them off in situ is not easy and unlikely to last in the longer term with replacement being the best option. If you do try this and get any kind of imrovement when you next drive it, I would say it's deffinitely the damper at fault but until you see a new one and how it's meant to move, it's hard to guage, sorry to be this vague but hope this info helps.
 
Thanks , I will check it out , my car is running 380 bhp now so there is a good chance that is not helping , where can I get the part for decent money ? Thanks .
 
I got mine as the guy above did from "All German Parts" in Leeds, http://www.allgermanparts.co.uk/ Jason is very helpful and I think must be doing a reasonable trade in them now. Euro Carparts is also worth a look especially if they have one of their many discount deals on.
Jason does Lemforder ones so OE and ECP Febi-Bilstein, I have had the 2 together on the bench and I couldn't tell one from another, so quality wise only time will tell but I would say they are near enough the same. Febi do a lot of fronts, so just watch you deffinitely get the rear.
 
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ok , sent all german parts an email as i can't find them on the website , not sure what i actually need part number wise .
 
The vibration is caused by the rear propshaft damper, a worn bearing would cause vibration at all rpm and speeds. The part costs roughly £250 from Audi Inc 4x new bolts. Quite a simple job. Changed 3 of these now including my old a3.
 
How about this, my car anyway;
Upload 2017 1 29 20 24 7

If you copy the site address you should be able to do a search from there for the correct car. Alternatively give Jason ans All German a ring and he should be able to sort you out for, in the region of about £100 ;)
 
Jason has replied to my email , as for vibration at all speeds and rpm , my car doesn't do that , as i mentioned above its only when under load from a slow speed in 5th or 6th gear , I do know that the smf can also cause this .
 
MICHAEL PARKER said:
Jason has replied to my email , as for vibration at all speeds and rpm , my car doesn't do that , as i mentioned above its only when under load from a slow speed in 5th or 6th gear , I do know that the smf can also cause this .
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This thread refers to vibration at 2500revs and in my case seems to be about at 75-80 mph. The symptoms are very much like unbalanced wheels which most peeps seem to assume is the problem but is not that. Vibration with smf's is most noticeable at idle when the whole car shakes. If your car shakes at low speed in a high gear then that on my understanding would mean you are using a too higher gear for the speed you are moving. May well be other issues now you have all that power.
 
SootySport said:
This thread refers to vibration at 2500revs and in my case seems to be about at 75-80 mph. The symptoms are very much like unbalanced wheels which most peeps seem to assume is the problem but is not that. Vibration with smf's is most noticeable at idle when the whole car shakes. If your car shakes at low speed in a high gear then that on my understanding would mean you are using a too higher gear for the speed you are moving. May well be other issues now you have all that power.
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Tbh I think it's the fact I need to be in 4th as it's just driving at say 30 mph in 5th or 6th and then accelerating , it just gives a bit of vibration through the car , personally I just think it's the smf .
 
Anyone had to replace the front one yet?

I had my rear one replaced about 25k ago but now have the same virbation/symptoms coming from the front end and feels to be the same location as the front damper. Im 99% sure its not the DMF/Clutch. Does it at the same rev range as the rear one when it failed and is gradually getting worse over the last 4 to 5k miles.

Cant be the rear one again as when that went it was very clear the noise and vibration was from the rear. I think im gonna risk the rain now and jack the car up and have a look.
 
What are the torque specs on the bolts

1) torque for the ones that couple to Haldex
2) toque of prop bolt
 
Not worry re my last post. I've found the front part to order for £42 from Febi.
 
Yeah resr one is good as new and looked fine. Was only change less the about 20k ago.

Front 1, front what little you can see due to the casing looked perished. Quite convinced it's that causing the vibration at 2k and can also often feel a little play in the drivetrain as if the rubber is loose etc.

Will be changed in a few days once it arrives.
 
Rear propshaft damper...! Had the same issue on 3 different cars. The rubber goes hard over time and it loses its dampening capability. Cost around £200. Dealer only part but easy enough to replace
 
Not sure if your post was replying to me but my issue definitely is not the rear doughnut damper. It's already been changed. This noise is differs t location, directly from the front damper.

Rear one is only £120 so you got ripped off. Front I've bought for £42 delivered. Gets fit next Thursday so I will update then.
 
I am interested in how you get on, I have a wee bit vibration again but I think my damper has issues, so much for Lemforder. Never checked the front though, is it just the same kind of thing, hardening rubber and not really doing the job it was intended for?
 
Yeah it wasn't as simple as I had hoped. The garage showed me the front 1 which was worn and slightly cracked but didn't look enough to be a problem. I changed it anyway.

They dropped the rear coupler down and the rear one had split again on the inside ( part u can't see whilst on car ). They think although my vibration is from the front it's probably travelling down the propshaft.

It is slightly better with new front on. I've kicked off with original garage who fit rear 1 as it's supposed to have a 2 yr warranty on the part but they wouldn't budge...then I remember I still had warranty on the car lol. It's going into audi on 22nd November for them to diagnose problem. My warranty company have already authorised a full new propshaft to be fitted. My local garage could have done the job but i would of had to foot the bill and claim the money back amd cant fork out over £1k as last time it took a month for the cheque to come through.

I'll let u know once works been done but I'll be happy with a new propshaft on a 60 plate ;)
 
A19quattro said:
Sounds good, if that doesn't solve your problems I don't know what will :)
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It better fit it as its can be annoying at times and spoils the drive of the car although performance wise is unaffected.
We had planned of getting an 2nd hand RS5 in a couple of years but if this noise continues we might buy the bullet and get one sooner although not the facelift one I wanted as they are still ridiculously priced.
 
Now you are talking "Real" cars, if you can afford it I would say go for it, could be the experience of a lifetime and best to do it before they demonise everything that runs on fossil fuels, enjoy it if you do :)
 
Car was in Audi last Friday and is back in this Wednesday for a full new propshaft.

Can't fault Arnold Clarke's extended warranty. Have 2 months left on it and they just said propshaft is covered so take it to Audi and have the lot changed. I know it's costing over £1k as women on phone mentioned cost but line was poor. I had a brand new Q2 Dsg with I think the 1.4T engine as courtesy car and was horrible lol. Heated seats were good though since it was frozen solid!!
 
I got the car back from Audi Friday just gone with new propshaft fitted. They gave me a copy of the bill the warranty company ar3 picking up. Total of £1650.68 and from what I remember less than £200 was labour. Rest was a £60 diagnostic charge then just propershaft along with a few screws and washers.

Car now back to as new. No noise or vibration.
 
Good to hear, I should stop slagging Arnold Clark then :)
What was the vibration lie with the front damper problem, the same as the rear or any different and if so how?
 
It wasn't as bad as the rear but initially i started thinking it was the DMF Due to the location. Also noticed when pulling away I could feel a slight clunk and felt like a little slack/give in the drive of the car on the transmission...hard to explain. That's all gone so definitely must have just been excess movement on propshaft rubbers mounts.

Hope it's lasts a good few k now though as warranty runs out in about 40 days lol and I'm plan on keeping it a long time.

Our RS5 purchase is being brought forward to next summer!! Looking at a 2013 model with sports bucket seats however we can't agree on a colour...****** women ;)
 
That's interesting, was the vibration at 2500 revs or was it lower down, my latest one it about 1700rpm. I don't think my rear damper is moving as it should although it does move, possibly too much. I haven't checked the rear but next time I am under I will, just to see.
I was meant to be changing my car but decided to keep it at least another year and got some bodywork done this year. I don't know what to buy next to be honest, I had a notion for an S3, thought I would maybe keep that a few years and try to pick up a, by that time cheaper RS3 but I quite like my diesel and could easily have another, especially as I have been advised against it by the government :) What colours are you thinking of?
 
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