Are you using the correct wheel studs for your wheels?

s3_trev

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Hi guys,

You know the expression you learn something new every day? Well this weekend I discovered the importance of using the correct type of wheel stud for your car.

So there are probably much more detailed guides online, but this is just a very quick post to tell you guys.


wheel-bolts-14mm-taper-dome.jpg


Above diagram shows a "Radius" bolt head the left, and a "Tapered" bolt head on the right. The general rule is that OEM alloy wheels use the Radius head, while aftermarket alloy wheels use the Tapered head. This is due to the 'hole' that the stud goes into in your wheel, and it needs to be matched correctly in order to seat or seal properly.

This weekend I found out that having the incorrect stud will not only cause juddering/vibration (like what happened to me) but from doing some more research on this subject I have found out it can have more serious consequences such as applying stress in the wrong places (stress points), and whatever other issues it could cause.

When I ordered my TD 1.2's, Rimstyle sent me the correct studs. But I then installed spacers, which came with extended wheel studs. Great I thought, not realising the extended studs had a radius head, different than the correct tapered head I had been sent with the wheels. When I suffered the vibrations I looked into it more closely, and compared pictures I had taken before hand and then I figured out my mistake looking at posts online. I knew it wasn't the wheels as they have been properly balanced. Thankfully I was able to acquire some extended studs with the tapered head, and since installing ive had no problems. They felt much better when tightening them up as well!

So what I am saying is, its not just about the correct measurements, the head of the stud is important as well.

Possibly the entire world knew about this already, but if this guide makes someone safer then it will be worth it.

Just for reference, the correct type of stud for an aftermarket alloy wheel (VAG 5 stud) is M14 X 1.5 with a 60 degree taper. The standard stud length is 27mm so if you have spacers then you will need to add the width of spacer onto the number 27, in order to get the new length you need. So a 5mm spacer would need a 32mm stud.

Thanks.
 
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Good post for people who didn't know this :)
 
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Yep, radius for oe alloys , tapered for aftermarket.
 
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I just used the standard audi wheel bolts when I fitted my VMR wheels, i wonder if they could be wrong then, thanks for the heads up
 
Could this be the source of my mystery wheel wobble??

Also, where do people recommend buying new bolts from?
 
Plenty on fleabay.

If in doubt guys , check what type of bolt you have .
 
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Hi guys,

You know the expression you learn something new every day? Well this weekend I discovered the importance of using the correct type of wheel stud for your car.

So there are probably much more detailed guides online, but this is just a very quick post to tell you guys.


wheel-bolts-14mm-taper-dome.jpg


Above diagram shows a "Radius" bolt head the left, and a "Tapered" bolt head on the right. The general rule is that OEM alloy wheels use the Radius head, while aftermarket alloy wheels use the Tapered head. This is due to the 'hole' that the stud goes into in your wheel, and it needs to be matched correctly in order to seat or seal properly.

This weekend I found out that having the incorrect stud will not only cause juddering/vibration (like what happened to me) but from doing some more research on this subject I have found out it can have more serious consequences such as applying stress in the wrong places (stress points), and whatever other issues it could cause.

When I ordered my TD 1.2's, Rimstyle sent me the correct studs. But I then installed spacers, which came with extended wheel studs. Great I thought, not realising the extended studs had a radius head, different than the correct tapered head I had been sent with the wheels. When I suffered the vibrations I looked into it more closely, and compared pictures I had taken before hand and then I figured out my mistake looking at posts online. I knew it wasn't the wheels as they have been properly balanced. Thankfully I was able to acquire some extended studs with the tapered head, and since installing ive had no problems. They felt much better when tightening them up as well!

So what I am saying is, its not just about the correct measurements, the head of the stud is important as well.

Possibly the entire world knew about this already, but if this guide makes someone safer then it will be worth it.

Just for reference, the correct type of stud for an aftermarket alloy wheel (VAG 5 stud) is M14 X 1.5 with a 60 degree taper. The standard stud length is 27mm so if you have spacers then you will need to add the width of spacer onto the number 27, in order to get the new length you need. So a 5mm spacer would need a 32mm stud.

Thanks.
Great post! Didn't know this either. Buy that man a beer!
 
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Yeah guys def worth checking out!

And really happy this has helped some people out!
 
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@s3_trev I bought my A3 in September 2013. From that point until about 30 minutes ago today I've had a wheel wobble that I've gone to the ends of the earth to fix. Bushes, alignment, you name it I've done it. Driveshafts were next on the list...

Just wanted to say thank you so much for this info, I ordered taper bolts off eBay for £20 to the spec you mentioned and it's cured my wheel wobble.
 
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Thats awesome dude!! Really happy that I was able to help you out :friends:
 
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Anyone got a link for extended locking wheel bolts?

Got some 15mm spacers but non of the bolts are lockers!
 
What if you have OEM+ wheels like me (Genuine AMG wheels)

I wouldn't technically class these as full on aftermarket, Would I still need tapered bolts..?
 
What if you have OEM+ wheels like me (Genuine AMG wheels)

I wouldn't technically class these as full on aftermarket, Would I still need tapered bolts..?
Have a look at the wheel holes, you'll see if they there is a flat tapered shoulder or a concave shoulder. Fit the bolts to suit.

And a waring to others- If you do use the wrong bolts the wheel bolts WILL come loose after a just a few days. Found that out years ago and the car I recently bought had replica wheels with the wrong bolts, took them of to sell last week and shock-horror, most bolts came of a bit too easy for my liking.
 
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I didn't know about this so thanks for bringing the topic up. Will have to check mine on my A3
 
I have wheel judder, bought spigot rings etc and nothing has helped. Last night I heard an awful clunking and luckily pulled over very quickly. Found out I was missing a wheel stud from the N/S/R and the other stud had worked themselves almost all of the way out... Confirmed they are round shouldered studs all the way round and not the 60 degree tapered ones that need for my BBS CH's... I've ordered some correctly spec'd ones.. I hope this helps, I'll update when they arrive.
 
Thank you for the very useful and informative post some thing new I have learned.
 
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Picked up my car recently and have just checked the wheel bolts. Momo wheels fitted and 4 studs per wheel are tapered correctly for this aftermarket wheel, but the locking wheel bolts are OEM Audi, with radius fit. Damnit. So I need a set of standard length taper fit locking studs.
I guess I'll be getting one of these then;

[url=http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M14-X-1-5-27MM-BLACK-ALLOY-WHEEL-LOCKING-BOLTS-FIT-AUDI-A3-S3-RS3/182773515814?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=47510&meid=9aff7ec0ba6543a4b392156820ae6225&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=202058494131&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851]just the locks[/URL]

full set