Anyone here running a Haldex Controller?

ArrEssDrei

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In the midst of lockdown boredom and way to much time to ponder mods to the RS3, I've been thinking about a haldex controller and was wondering of anyone here is running one, and had any recommendations?

So far I've found 4 and wondered if anyone has any of these:

https://www.vdveer-engineering.nl/index.php/en/shop/controllers/haldex-controller-gen5-0cq-detail

The Syvecs/IROZ unit which is well reviewed on YouTube, which I can't actually find for sale, only a deposit for future stock (and I wonder if they are just reselling the above one perhaps).

Any just came across this which looks awesome with virtual cockpit integration and all:
https://www.dsa-electronic.de/allradsteuerungen/audi/rs3-8v-ab-2013/

MTM: https://www.mtm-online.de/en/shop_en/#/art/haldex

I'd be interested to hear impressions and any advice from other RS3 owners.
 
I have the first option. And gives most customized settings via the phone/app. No extra visibil display or nobs.

I think this is the best for dynamic driving....

For launch and 1/4mil the Syvec/Iroz would be strongest.

The 3rd is cool with integrated in the cluster. But has an extra display and has limited settings... But has a good video on YouTube showing it on snow...


MTM I haven't seen anything of! It's also very expensive!

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I have both the VdV and Iroz/Syvecs controllers. The bottom two are variants of the VdV, "piggy back" devices, I do really like the integration though.

The piggy back is a safe way to play - you won't break anything. They all have pretty good interfaces, the VdV phone app can change quite alot of stuff to dial in the map. It has tables to customise the behaviour changing the haldex pressure based on steering lock, throttle position, boost and speed for example. All accessible via the app.

Iroz is a different kettle of fish, it's a complete replacement controller vs piggyback. It has the ability to exceed the max. pressure valve so you can up-rate that pretty easily and get more clutch pressure. Hence the crazy 0-60 times with it. But, it's not a huge gain overall and not really much benefit if you are not one gunning for that extra 0.1s at the drag strip. I would say the provided map improves on stock behaviour with higher speeds, throttle and steering lock.

If the Iroz controller had an easy interface to update it then I'd recommend it hands down, as you can pretty much custom tune it to do what you want if you can get the software from Syvecs - for example, steering lock will have like 3 different variables rather than just 1! But if you want to make immediate changes (say, lock out the Haldex for ice drifting and then back to stock afterward - just by a flick between settings on an iphone app) the VdV has great versatility and would be better for you.

Either way, just be aware, it's subtle as the stock controller is really well optimised. Haldex can't just be thrown into perma-AWD as the fluid gets hot quick. Basically you want a controller that only uses it when you really benefit and 'rests' it in between. The gap on stock for me is higher speed WOT, especially coming out of bends where it's just going FWD really quickly, or off the line with 700nm+ you do benefit from more Haldex pressure off the line. Also it bleeds off with lock too quickly for my liking.
 
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Thanks so much for the replies @Ross_T_Boss and @A3SBQ . Very interesting to know that the Syvecs/IROZ unit actually replaces the stock controller and can exceed max pressure, I didn't realise this as there isn't much info on it. It is the vanityaudi YouTube that really caught my attention knocking .2 off his 60' and quarter mile with the IROZ unit. The potentiometer control seems really archaic though, so the appeal of the piggyback unit is quite strong for me, but it is primarily the launch traction improvements that I want it for.

I'd be very interested to know both of your impressions when it comes to launching the car with the VdV unit. Did you see much/any improvement (assuming you did any timing tests)?
 
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I'd be very interested to know both of your impressions when it comes to launching the car with the VdV unit. Did you see much/any improvement (assuming you did any timing tests)?

On the pot. Basically at about the 1/2 way mark the pump duty is "100%" which will give you something similar to stock pressure. You have 4 not very obvious points either way that will increment that in either direction of circa +/- 5%. If you just max it out you'll give the axles a hard time, a few have broken them, so there is some extra risk in it. But it's not just that, you do want to prevent the rear wheels spinning too much, the idea of the pot is "fine tuning" is an easy access knob. Get to where the rears are lighting up too much and slowing you down, then dial it back a bit. I have mine in the arm rest.

That said, I need to follow up with Syvecs as you can have a 4-way map switcher instead, and I'd rather have that and the ability to fine tune each. I did ask the pot can be re-purposed but sounds like "it could be but would need a firmware update for it, so no".

It's that extra pressure on launch that gives the benefits off the line. I logged Haldex PWM stock, VdV, Iroz and through 1/2 gear stock and VdV are exactly the same - max "stock" pressure. Iroz controller keeps it higher throughout then drops off at a lesser rate also. Worth noting, the pressure valve will only allow about 5% extra in reality so you do need to change that for full effect, although as said, there is some risk doing so (Iroz send a tighter spring I think - I sorted out mine DIY style).

Re: testing - Dragy as expected reported the same times... I've had 2.7 on the stock controller, and with VdV "locked" also. With the Iroz there is the problem of launch boost, so basically my "low torque" LC file with Unitronic bogs down a bit off the line. I need to run their mid-level "drag radial" file really but haven't been able to get it working for my ECU just yet - it will come and hopefully can get into the 2.5s 0-60 zone with that (PS4S on the street...) My current PB is with the Iroz controller @ 2.6s.
 
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I understand changing the front to rear bias but what did you mean when it changes the pressure. I see IROZ have the single control knob so how do you change the pressure?

mid there any danger to the rear diff increasing the bias because I read it’s not as robust as the front. I’m just about to change the diff in the front to a Wavetrack which is less fragile than the oem one.
 
Thanks Ross, sounds like the Iroz/Syvecs is the only one worth having as far as launch traction is concerned. I'd hoped the fancy piggybacks might help the rear engage faster and improve launch traction, but sounds like it didn't do much for you.

Our of curiosity though, were you running an uprated valve sprint with the vdv controller? Is the spring worth anything on its own without a controller?
 
I understand changing the front to rear bias but what did you mean when it changes the pressure. I see IROZ have the single control knob so how do you change the pressure?

mid there any danger to the rear diff increasing the bias because I read it’s not as robust as the front. I’m just about to change the diff in the front to a Wavetrack which is less fragile than the oem one.

Pressure = more rear bias. The controller is just altering pressure to increase/decrease engagement, the single knob is just changing one variable to increase/decrease the scaling to dial in hook-up. It has a complete brain in there with very complex map capabilities, just a shame it's so hard to customise and switch maps.

I wouldn't worry about the diff personally, rear axles and the prop are another story, there's a few casualties out there as a result. Wheel hop at the rear won't end well! Personally using rear subframe inserts and trailing arm spherical bearings to help, all well but only on PS4S so not really pushing it much.

Thanks Ross, sounds like the Iroz/Syvecs is the only one worth having as far as launch traction is concerned. I'd hoped the fancy piggybacks might help the rear engage faster and improve launch traction, but sounds like it didn't do much for you.

Our of curiosity though, were you running an uprated valve sprint with the vdv controller? Is the spring worth anything on its own without a controller?

I can't say I have tried it - no reason to be honest, you can't increase pressure with a piggy back so no theoretical way it can help unless someone can bypass. I was disappointed when I tested and logged and realised I just had to get the Iroz one. It's a great unit and this reminds me I need to follow up with Syvecs as the software should be out to map map changes for those of us so inclined - just a shame you have to physically plug it into a laptop to do so, but to be fair I can't actually see any reason to change the current map, it works really well for daily, fast road and turn the dial up a bit = great for drag racing.
 
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Pressure = more rear bias. The controller is just altering pressure to increase/decrease engagement, the single knob is just changing one variable to increase/decrease the scaling to dial in hook-up. It has a complete brain in there with very complex map capabilities, just a shame it's so hard to customise and switch maps.

I wouldn't worry about the diff personally, rear axles and the prop are another story, there's a few casualties out there as a result. Wheel hop at the rear won't end well! Personally using rear subframe inserts and trailing arm spherical bearings to help, all well but only on PS4S so not really pushing it much.



I can't say I have tried it - no reason to be honest, you can't increase pressure with a piggy back so no theoretical way it can help unless someone can bypass. I was disappointed when I tested and logged and realised I just had to get the Iroz one. It's a great unit and this reminds me I need to follow up with Syvecs as the software should be out to map map changes for those of us so inclined - just a shame you have to physically plug it into a laptop to do so, but to be fair I can't actually see any reason to change the current map, it works really well for daily, fast road and turn the dial up a bit = great for drag racing.

Thanks for your input mate, you've saved me a lot of money and heartache buying the wrong one. Will go IROZ when I'm ready to pull the trigger.
 
It's that extra pressure on launch that gives the benefits off the line. I logged Haldex PWM stock, VdV, Iroz and through 1/2 gear stock and VdV are exactly the same - max "stock" pressure. Iroz controller keeps it higher throughout then drops off at a lesser rate also. Worth noting, the pressure valve will only allow about 5% extra in reality so you do need to change that for full effect, although as said, there is some risk doing so (Iroz send a tighter spring I think - I sorted out mine DIY style).
TL;DR - Looking for tips on the DIY spring modification.

Sorry to revive a year old thread... I actually created an account just to pop in here and ask a question. I was going to message you directly, Ross_T_Boss, but didn't see a message option.

I just installed the vdv haldex controller, and am doing some testing and experimenting that I'll release in a video on my channel when I am finished. I the process of testing the controller, I also want to test the effects of presssure release valve modifications, and there just isn't much info on that. I know IROZ does a spring swap for a stiffer spring rate, but no idea how to match that in a DIY fashion. Others have reported shimming the spring with washers to add some preload. Again, not much info on that and how these mods are increasing pressures (and more importantly, what pressures are still safe).

I did actually add a 1mm washer to preload the spring as a start, and there was no difference in 0-60 or 60ft times (one run before/after only... but didn't see worth making more runs at that point). I am considering bumping the preload up maybe 1mm at a time, but the Gen5 haldex doesn't have a pressure sensor (as far as I am aware) so I don't have any way to know what the changes are doing.

I'd really appreciate some info on your DIY style solution for your spring modification, and if you think pairing that with the vdv controller would actually have any impact. The vdv doesn't increase PWM, but if the max holding pressure can be increased, there still seems to be a benefit, perhaps in quicker lockup. Thoughts?
 
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TL;DR - Looking for tips on the DIY spring modification.

Sorry to revive a year old thread... I actually created an account just to pop in here and ask a question. I was going to message you directly, Ross_T_Boss, but didn't see a message option.

I just installed the vdv haldex controller, and am doing some testing and experimenting that I'll release in a video on my channel when I am finished. I the process of testing the controller, I also want to test the effects of presssure release valve modifications, and there just isn't much info on that. I know IROZ does a spring swap for a stiffer spring rate, but no idea how to match that in a DIY fashion. Others have reported shimming the spring with washers to add some preload. Again, not much info on that and how these mods are increasing pressures (and more importantly, what pressures are still safe).

I did actually add a 1mm washer to preload the spring as a start, and there was no difference in 0-60 or 60ft times (one run before/after only... but didn't see worth making more runs at that point). I am considering bumping the preload up maybe 1mm at a time, but the Gen5 haldex doesn't have a pressure sensor (as far as I am aware) so I don't have any way to know what the changes are doing.

I'd really appreciate some info on your DIY style solution for your spring modification, and if you think pairing that with the vdv controller would actually have any impact. The vdv doesn't increase PWM, but if the max holding pressure can be increased, there still seems to be a benefit, perhaps in quicker lockup. Thoughts?
Hi. Thanks for sharing your findings on this.
I have also been working on this with someone in the Netherlands. This all started with the Wavetrac LSD modded into the rear diff housing for the Haldex 4 and 5.
We have logged several cars. VW Golf 7R, Skoda Superb 280 (same as 7R) and the Audi RS3 8V FL with DAZA.
The differences we could see by simple VCDS logs was that the pump got more current (amps)
It's been some time since we looked at this but we thought maybe the RS3 controller has a different MAP from factory allowing more clutch pressure!
The plan was for me to install the RS3 OEM controller into my 7R and see if it did make any changes!
If this would be a solution and would work on my 7R this would be a "great" mod for us with the 7R (smaller rear diff) but for the RS3 and TTRS cars with DAZA (bigger rear diff) would not have any other solution then to upgrade the controller the Syvecs/Iroz controller...

Sent fra min SM-G998B via Tapatalk
 

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