Jul 3, 2015
Hi dieleco - I picked one of these up and tried wiring it today. I connected it up and it powers up but then powers down with a few seconds. I measured the voltage on the wire before connecting it and it was >12V with the engine on, but when the CLOC is connected it drops to around 10.5V - not sure if this is what is causing it not work (i'm relying on the signal sense function as I only have one spare 12V from the HU). Do you know what voltage yours is reading when it is on?
Replaced my hi/lo converters with the one you bought and they worked a treat and take up way less space.
glad to be a help mate enjoy
Hello mate, sorry for answering so late, but I’ve been very busy.
My voltage with the engine on is above 12V. Don’t relay in the signal sense function and try to connect another power source. The manual says that the main power connection should be made at the battery.
At the weekend I'm going to install the below, the EQ should resolve the poor sound adjustment all these units seem to have and the cam for reversing and to make it easier to wire up I have added a wireless devise to save me running the loom through the car.
Will be interested to see how you get on with the reverse camera etc. l have one here but its not wireless and needs ran to the head unit, which l got quoted 125+vat for.
£125 to run the cable wow, the wireless kit is a separate kit from the Cam, I bought the wireless to see if it will save me having to run the cable through the car which I could do just don't want to.
Hi guys, seems like a few people have tried these units and have had success. My audi a3 is non-bose but rear amplified speakers. I have so far tried 5 different units and all of them inhibit low volume rear speakers and almost no bass.
I have the qualock connector in my car. What adapters are you guys using to get the rear speakers and sub to work properly?
I bought a Pioneer single DIN HU (which I am already thinking of replacing) and when I did I lost my rear speakers entirely. There are TONS of threads on this forum about this issue.
I just bought one of these hoping that it fixes my problem. It was posted on one of the Android RNS-E replacement threads...
I suspect it's two things.
You need to connect the RCA output up (this part I have confirmed with a guy in the US that I am helping but hes still not got aloud rear output)
The rear amp is not being switched on to boost the output
now i know in normal system if the amp is not on no sound will come out but these system seem to defeat all logic and part of me feels the amp is not on if not that then the output signal is either to hi.
Fr some reason I think the amp has been switched on but not properly. Because when I disconnect the blue amp-con wire, the rears completely turn off no sound at all. If I leave it connected the rears do work but with very low volume and the sub is very low that I can't tell if the sub is working or not, but the amp-con connection for the rear amp is definitely connected and the rears come on.
I've been told that the reason for the low volume is these units do not send enough to the rear amp and need a rear active amplifier lead to get the right volume, but I can not find one that exists for a quadlock to quadlock, they are all either iso to iso or quadlock to iso.
Funny that and your right the amp is on, I was talking to the US guy about this yesterday and we came to the same conclusion. So if I'm right the rear RCA's are connected and the output to the gains to the rear amp need a boost; so what I recommended is a PAC hi/lo converter which has a gains control on it which you would connect to the rear out speaker wires and then plug in to the rear out RCA's. So basically you would be able to pre-set the volume for the rear signal via the PAC to the same level has the fronts and I think this should work. If you are local to south London I have a set of PAC's we could test the theory on if you like.
I am going abit crazy here. I now have 3 different units sat in my house and they all inhibit the same issue of the rears not working.
The third one that arrived today has even worse interference, I can hear the subs working but very distorted. With no music playing there is a loud morse code type of noise in the background
Right this has been racking my brains why the none Bose have this issue and it just came back to me from what I have read in the past. Bose systems require a much lower than normal output signal than normal so the RCA/phono must be set for this. So introduce a none Bose system that requires a normal output and you have this issue of low outputs in the rear.
Now clearly not all units have this issue but some do. If you get yourself a PAC hi/lo converter this should fix you're issue in regards to the engine background noise my did the same until I fitted the PAC but have changed this to a different filter system after one of the guys here recommended the RAC filter which is no good for you.
The noise issue seems to only happen on the RAC's but if you get the PAC's you should not have this issue as you will take the feeds of the speaker cables.
If this is a little confusing PM me and I will give you my number to explain.
What about units that do not come with RCA's but a direct quadlock that fits into the aftermarket unit
I would need to see the units loom to see if I can come up with a solution but you might have to Tap the cars loom to get round the problem which thinking about it may not be that hard providing the rear amp is being powered up which in turn may not be an issue if we can find out the wire which turns it on and off.
I put extra pins in to my loom/quadlock so there was no cutting of wires
Added some pictures do they help?
Where did you add these?
In general guys what end do I connect the hi lo converter?
Do I connect it in between the two rca output plugs for rear?
If so which end of the hi lo converter goes to the HU and which goes to the rear speakers?
The hi/lo converter taps the normal speaker rear out cables on the stereo the to the RCA plugs coming out from the plug which connect to the cars loom.
Here's a picture of what needs to be done but you will only need one PAC converter to sort out the rear channel and you don't need to cut the wires just tap in to them with scotch locks.
My PAC hi/lo arrived yesterday. I put in an aftermarket Pioneer and lost my rea speakers after installation. My situation will look a little different but I'll snap some pics. Luckily my new stereo came with an adapter to go from the rear leads to RCA to connect the PAC...
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The PAC SNI-35 did nothing to help my rears and I double-checked my wiring 3x. I will try one more time and then turn to a pro to take a look at it.
Post a picture his you have them hooked up
OK I fitted my eq today to my all Bose system and the first thing that was apparent was no output until I turned up the volume on the eq and stereo full and that was still very low.
So it was clear the output on the RAC's put out a very low signal.
Next step was to take a output off the speakers using the PAC to feed the EQ and bingo normal sound resumed but I needed to set the EQ to half and buy a quarter vol on the stereo it was blaring. So none Bose have a normal amp type setup and Bose require a very low signal output.
I'll do this at some point this week. I pulled it all out and then ended up in the ER today with a dog bite to the face. Maybe by the weekend...
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Ouch.... Probably did not want you kissing him.
OK, I've healed and the prescription painkillers have worn off enough for me to go out and try this again. This time I also took pics.
I DO NOT have RCAs coming from my rears so I had to wire up the RCA adapter that came with the stereo. Ironically the instructions from the Pioneer-compatible wiring harness clearly state that if I have the non-Bose system that I just hook up the wires and am good to go. That was NOT the case.
On the SNI-35 I connected the following:
White to green
White w/ stripe to green w/ stripe
Gray to purple
Gray w/ stripe to purple w/ stripe
On my RCA adapter I wired the following:
Right + (red) to purple
Right - (black) to purple w/ stripe
Left + (white) to green
Left - (black) to green w/ stripe
Again, this produced NOTHING in the rears. I also noticed the SNIinstructions say if you get no sound to connect both brown to ground. I tried that too and got nothing.
Finally, I noticed in the picture a page ago where there are two connected that the right and left channels are reversed. The instructions very clearly state that when you are looking at the RCA jacks with the label up the left jack is the left channel but in that pic it is the red cable with traditionally is the right channel. I tried swapping the RCA channels, like in the picture and still got nothing.
Any suggestions are appreciated but it looks like I may need to turn to a pro.
OK I can see this will not work as you are not connected to the rear channel which RCA out puts would give you which would be the loom part of the upper part of the plug. If you dont have RCA then you will need to tap the Audi loom direct or see if there is any way to tap the plug.
My loom has speaker connector connecting to the Audi loom but it will not do anything at all so if you can (pain I know) take a picture of the plug that connect to the car and you may notice the Audi has more inputs then your Pioneer is offering from its unit.
OK, I pulled out my looms and guess what? RCAs! I have to look at the wiring specs again to see what they are for but we may be in business. (?)
I took a couple more pics today out in the parking lot (car park for you folks)
There is one more thing. The former owner installed an audi ipod adapter (000 051 444 o) and routed the cable through the glove box. I pulled most of it out and was going to sell the unit but since the MSFW features still think that it is connected I must have to remove the "harness" part of it as well. I will have to post pics of that later.
Now for more pics:
You need a plug like this with RCA's coming off it
I have one and that is the CRUX interface that you see in the pics with the four RCAs coming off of it. Ironically the purple and green ones were even color coded for the color of the wires coming off the back of my head unit.
I just plugged them in and re-wired the gray and white from the PAC adapter and my rear speakers now work!
The directions said for non-Bose to connect all 8 wires but I never looked at it again after I read about the hidden amp for the rear speakers. This is the part that threw me off on the wiring diagram:
Thank you all for your help!
I may be needing a set of these. What l can gather from this picture is your line-ins are just wire feeds from the connector to the PAC then rcas out? Any reason for that?
For me at the time my RCA's out were causing engine noise and the PAC got round that but since then I had changed to a different noise reduction options that sat inline on the RAC's so I did not need the PAC but for none bose you will need one PAC for the rear channel as bose signal is a lot lower than normal RCA outputs.
Ive got Bose, had a noise suppressor inline with the rcas but that was my source of the problem. l feeling l may not be getting much from the amp, or from the rear.
Hi chaps, recently got one of these android units for my a3 and I'm happy with it. Everything works as it should even the rear speakers although they don't go as loud but I do have one problem. The unit has drained my battery completely as I haven't used the car for a week so the car is dead even the central locking wouldn't work. I noticed when I was using the unit that it didn't turn on or off with the ignition so I had to turn it on or off with the button on the unit. I've contacted the seller where I bought it from who has suggested the canbus box may be faulty as its not telling the unit when to switch on or off. Just wondered if anyone else has had this problem with one of these android units or has any suggestions to fix the problem?!
My sons one did this and the canbus was at fault
Just a little update, have now upgraded the software to Android Lollipop 5.1 and installed a Joying DAB+ USB dongle and will be looking to install a 4 port DC powered USB2 hub later next month.
Sounds good mate, let us know how you get on with it all, particularly the 5.1 software.
I'll be getting the following next month, is there anything else I would need for my Bose system? As I don't want any interference or low volume from the rear speakers, I think it was yourself who said that the RCA noise filter replaces the need for a PAC SNI converter.
Xtrons Android 5.1.1 Head Unit
RCA Noise Filters/Suppressors Bose
You should only need this ti sort the
You should only need this for the noise issue.
Perfect, cheers bud.
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