After a lot of thinking....

paddy

Registered User
S3.jpg
I have decided to stick with revo Stg1. I think, TBH it does all i need to do and if i was to spend a load more money then brakes and handling would probably improve my A to B speed more that a few more BHP.
That said i feel like my VWR is getting all the air i need in but at high revs it feels strangled which i think is exhaust.Is there any benefit to fitting a decent down pipe and 600 cat on a stg 1 lump or is the std downpipe ok at say about 310bhp ?
I know stg2+ is really the way to go but i think i would rather refine what i have now and go for longevity than all out power and associated high mileage and wear problems.
If i want to frighten myself i will just take the Laverda :)
 

leshkin

Hold my beer...
VCDS Map User
Yes, the downpipe will be a big restriction on overall flow and will hinder the power. Once that is rectified and mapped accordingly, next restriction is going to be the fueling.

I would agree though, you're best spending some money on suspension, then brakes, and then power... Best set of mods I did to my S3 were coilovers, arbs and anti-lift kit - can enjoy them way below the speed limit too :)
 

S.

Save the manuals
I think you won't gain much with exhaust at stage1 or even with stage2 over 310bhp you have with stage1.
I had stage2 long time ago. It had just under 320hp and 450nm.
You'll probably gain few torques more if tuned for it and have quicker spool but that's about it.
Hpfp makes the real difference and in that case exhaust helps a lot even the downpipe only.
 

ch1z64

C'mon you's bhoy's in Green
VCDS Map User
Silver Supporter
@paddy . I will be amazed mate if you just stick to a stage 1 you'll get itchy fingers and defo feet to go stage2 . But best off luck whatever you decide
 

paddy

Registered User
I think you won't gain much with exhaust at stage1 or even with stage2 over 310bhp you have with stage1.
I had stage2 long time ago. It had just under 320hp and 450nm.
You'll probably gain few torques more if tuned for it and have quicker spool but that's about it.
Hpfp makes the real difference and in that case exhaust helps a lot even the downpipe only.

I don't really like the idea of the HPFP puting extra load on the cam TBH. To me an audi is a box of things waiting to go wrong ! I mean who else has to shell out £5k for a new rear diff/haldex unit at 50k miles or £6k on my 3.2 to fix a stretched cam chain and destroyed cam tensioners and auto cam advance units at 42k miles ? I am just trying to balance reliability with **** design and production. I mean who produces an engine that cokes itself up at 40k miles because of direct injection and uses 1ltr of oil ever 12oo miles and says that's quite normal.......lol
Appreciate your input all the same, maybe i need to shell out for a roller cam conversion for the pump.
 
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mechanic69

Registered User
VCDS Map User
Gold Supporter
I think you’ve had a couple of unlucky situations, 8p is solid and easy to go for 2+. Haldex sevice is around 100 quid so rear diff is easy to look after and the gearbox is solid specially if it’s dsg


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-Ju-

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Go on Paddy you know deep down you should go 2+ lol.
When I had my 8P I ran it first with a stage 2 APR map and then a 2+ one
I did 40k miles in that car, checked the cam follower regularly and it never showed any sign of wear.
It truly did turn it into a fantastic car and the map never caused me any issues.
As soon as my warranty runs out on the 8V, it'll be stage 2 for me again!
 

paddy

Registered User
My diff had 2 oil changes in its 50k miles the Haldex had a change and filter
The problem is Audi dont service or supply parts for units anymore so if you diff goes you have to buy a Haldex as well. The diff is partially riveted up so it can't be stripped. So you get a whiny £20 bearing and thats the end of the £3500 Dif
My dif was sent away to a land rover specialist who said its a crazy design and not rebuildable. The haldex is used on Landrovers, Volvos, Fords, etc so parts are available from them just not audi but if you buy a dif you have to have a haldex anyway so thanks Audi. While i am moaning the rubber doughnut was split in the rear prop shaft coupling and yes you guessed it, Audi only supply new prop shafts for £1200 they will not sell you a doughnut anymore. Eventually found an early A3 uses the same doughnut and some old stock are still about at £150.00
The real problem has always been Audi garages who really couldn't care less once they have sold you the car. When my diff went the main dealer where i bought the car new told me to take it elsewhere as they didnt want to know. At least they didn't tell me its my fault for keeping it out of warranty which is what the last main dealer said when my 3.2 gave up at 46k miles :)
Don't get me wrong, i like my car but i am under no illusions about the build quality or the quality of the components which is no better than ford or anyone else. :)
 

paddy

Registered User
Hi Ju
Good to see you still about :) Audi disasters are still following me about ...lol
One of the problem down in the South is no one does Audi tuning, there is a guy in Guildford that does revo but he hasn't got a rolling road so it's going to be guesswork with the settings.
 

-Ju-

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Seems such a long time ago when we were chasing them 3.2 problems!
There is always a risk associated with any form of tuning but I guess you'd be like me and treat the car with a degree of sympathy.
Tbh there aren't many times where you can use the extra power anyway but it is nice now and again.
Life's full if risks but it's how you manage them that brings that little bit of extra joy along the way.
I would highly recommend the APR map, it was a blast
 

-Ju-

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Ohh.....and I'll always be on here as my next car will be an Audi too.....and the one after that lol
 

paddy

Registered User
Must be nearly 10 years now ?
Problems with cars are to be expected, it would hardly be a problem at all if you were not left with that feeling "ya on ya own pal" by Audi.
I know exactly what you mean about sympathy, i drive my car like a runaround but its nice to just have that oumph when you need it or need to prove that something that looks a lot faster actually isn't :)
 

paddy

Registered User
Why ? do you really think they would be any better ... :)
 

paddy

Registered User
I think the point is Audi like any manufacturer just buy in most of the components, they don't actually make difs or Haldex or gearboxes or any of the electrics etc so whatever you buy is likely to have mostly the same components. a classic is the often discussed Haldex filter, you wont get one from Audi but you will get one from Ford for the Kuga or Volvo for the C60 and they use the same units. I get it your ****** off with me moaning about audi but if you cant do it here where can you :)
 

paddy

Registered User
Ah but this is where i am coming across wrong, i really like my S3 and i loved the 3.2, its the brand and dealership i don't like because in my experience the after sales service has been...well TBH i don't even go to main dealers any more. The reason for this thread was to say that maybe i have enough problems with the car in stg1 form and stg2 might be asking for more. People reply have been interesting though.
 

paddy

Registered User
funny thing is awesome just sent me an email offering 10% off a Autotech hpfp.......do you think they are reading this too :)
 

S.

Save the manuals
I don't really like the idea of the HPFP puting extra load on the cam TBH. To me an audi is a box of things waiting to go wrong ! I mean who else has to shell out £5k for a new rear diff/haldex unit at 50k miles or £6k on my 3.2 to fix a stretched cam chain and destroyed cam tensioners and auto cam advance units at 42k miles ? I am just trying to balance reliability with **** design and production. I mean who produces an engine that cokes itself up at 40k miles because of direct injection and uses 1ltr of oil ever 12oo miles and says that's quite normal.......lol
Appreciate your input all the same, maybe i need to shell out for a roller cam conversion for the pump.
My point was that for a marginal improvement with exhaust and stage 2 over stage 1 you should stay at stage 1 and put that money on something else. It won't be noticable increasement like with hpfp and stage 2+.
 

nluk100

Registered User
I fitted a 100 cell downpipe to my std exhaust and it added a load of extra torque (40+Nm) and quicker spool, so definitely something to think about. Other than that, invest is some decent tyres (Michelin super sports) and H&R ARBs and you will take the car to the next level without spending a fortune and pushing things too far.

I am the same, I was running 150Bar for a few Months but then dropped back down to 130Bar because I felt that was too high for the miles I do.
 

paddy

Registered User
New week new thoughts, or is it back where i started:)
I think i will do the downpipe and 200 cat and then in my own mind i will be happy that i am flowing air in and exhaust out as best i can. I will only be a hpfp and an intercooler off 2+ then anyway so it will always be an option..Thanks for your thoughts guys, its good when everyone chips in, its funny really, some are held back by cash, some are held back by indifference and some like me ar held back by over thinking things :) :)
 

ch1z64

C'mon you's bhoy's in Green
VCDS Map User
Silver Supporter
@paddy well mind now and keep us upto date how you get on after you make those changes ,
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
@paddy you don't really need the intercooler for Stg2+ so that only leaves the HPFP...
 

HHS3

Phantom Black S3 - R-Tech Stage 2+
@paddy you don't really need the intercooler for Stg2+ so that only leaves the HPFP...

This.

You've got the VWR CAI which starts getting restrictive above 350bhp and so you'd ideally want to replace this with a Revo CAI, however I know that you don't want Darth Vader under your bonnet.. You'd also want a DSG map done if going to stage 2+. Revo served me well for stage 1 and 2 however their software is seriously lacking compared to what's out there nowadays (especially stage 2+). Mine only made 309bhp and 294ft-lbs at stage 2 and then I made the best decision with my S3 and took it to R-Tech who transformed it into a weapon with their custom map. So if you do end up going stage 2+, then 100% go with R-Tech as staying with Revo will be robbing yourself.
 

S.

Save the manuals
Wish we have someone like r-tech over here..
 

paddy

Registered User
Wish we had someone in the south uk
 

tcardio

Registered User
bilsteins, h&R arbs, subframe mounts, engine mounts ,Walk and a good set of pads and you will satisfy your itch. What is the use of having all that HP if you can't use it. Going straight is boring, the fun is in the curves
 

paddy

Registered User
Ha ha yea, the M25 is one huge curve :)

As a life long biker i have to agree, the funs in the corners ..
 

HHS3

Phantom Black S3 - R-Tech Stage 2+
Wish we had someone in the south uk

Trip to RTech is well worth the effort... Just saying ;)

I know travelling is a right ballache but leshkin honestly has a valid point. I was up at 6:30am (as I was there the whole day for a lot of work to be done) to make the four+ hour round trip and I know others have traveled much further than me from the likes of Scotland of which every single one of us has said it was more than worth the trip and we'd happily do it again if needed. The reassurance from the conversations alone make it worthwhile, let alone the magic Niki puts to work on your car which genuinely blows all competitors out of the water. So for the sake of one very long day for years of enjoyment, I'd say it's worth it.

Let the graph do the talking which is definitely translated into performance and drive-ability on the road. This is with all stage 2+ hardware but a stock alloy intercooler and cat-back, with both of these then it would have seen 380bhp.

hh-png.147332
 

KieranS3

Registered User
Evoms intake, Autotech HPFP internals, GFB DV+, Milltek turbo back exhaust with sports cat and RS4 fuel pressure valve. I made 372bhp and 398lb/ft at Ecotune in Glasgow with the APR software. Clutch lasted a week at just 38k miles old. I put a clutchmasters 6 paddle clutch and solid flywheel in it, been over a year now and not had a single issue with the car. 2+ is more than enough for the road.
 
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