ABS/ESP Light on, but wheel sensors working fine...

Hi All,

So, whilst swapping out my suspension and brakes I've now developed an ABS/ESP fault. I've scanned it with VCDS and I get the following:

Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels:. 1K0-907-379-60EC1F.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 BE HW: 1K0 907 379 BE
Component: ESP MK60EC1 H31 0108
Revision: 00H31001
Coding: 13424012092200FAC81302EB901E0092380800
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 76B418D9C8C04A3BA5F-8022

1 Fault Found:
00287 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Right (G44)
003 - Mechanical Failure - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100011
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 145
Mileage: 190360 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2021.03.09
Time: 17:52:13

I ran it with ABS measuring blocks. All 4 sensors are working fine. I've attached the logs. I thought I'd get a second opinion before buying the sensor/rear wheel bearing.


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Check rear bearing & sensor, it'll start as intermittent but it will fault more often or permanent more than likely.
I'll start with the sensor. Dont fancy taking apart the brakes and doing the wheel bearing. But reading round, for most its been the wheel bearing


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Eventually the rubber abs ring part gets corrosion underneath it & it raises up splitting the ring in tiny areas, hence why its sporadic as the ring appears to be intact, only way to know is to strip get a torch behind disk & have a look when turning the disc, bearing.
Well, what started off as a sensor replacement turned into swapping out the wheel bearing. Was trying to wriggle loose the sensor and it snapped in two. Only, to get to the sensor i'd need to remove the brake disc. So, I broke loose the wheel bearing bolt using the bottle jack and then sliding off the brake disc and wheel bearing together. Refitted and everything and the ABS/ESP light has gone. I think in the near future I will swap out the left side.

Thanks NHN. I purchased the wheel bearing because you mentioned it'd likely be the cause of the issue. Looking at the wheel bearing, the ring had split and corroded

Anyone else attempting this, what I did to brake loose the wheel bearing hub bolt: place the bottle jack underneath the breaker and keep jacking as high as the bottle jack will go. With the bottle jack still holding the breaker bar, slide a tube onto the end and pull up. The bolt will break loose.
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The wheel bearing bolt needs about 200nm & the 180 degrees turn extra, tbh I could only do about 105 degrees so I think elsawin is wrong as I'm not exactly a small guy lol, you must make sure its torqued up to this, it is seriously important.

I use snapon techangles for my work for precision, but you can work out the extra degrees turn by visually checking.
Indeed, Iate last year I replaced both front bearings. I was able to get the 180 degree turn with a breaker bar. I followed the Haynes manual for the rear and did 180degrees +180 turn. My only trailing thought is, the torque wrench ive got isn't calibrated correctly and I will invest in a techangle as I hate eye balling.