A4 1.8t slow build

Moniek88

Registered User
Hi guys,

I think is time for a bit of update.

Managed to get the middle and rear floor done, is a shame that I cant do it all in one go but well.
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There was also a bit of rust by the cabin filter as well.

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Ill tackle the engine bay next year went the engine will be out for rebuild. Haven`t made my mind up yet whats the set-up should be.

Could not wait any longer to fit the front coilovers.

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Not an easy task on those cars but the aluminum uprights are much worse regarding seizing also they like to crack, much lighter tho.
I`m keeping my heave ones for now, the down side is the weight and fact that i need adapters to fit brembo 18z calipers.

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I`ve gone much further but will post layer on.
 

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Broonie

Registered User
If you’re interested I have S4 uprights for sale so no need for brackets to fit the 18z calipers, they’re ready for the 18z’s too with the grinding done

also selling a complete 18z setup with refurbed calipers and everything else is new, only covered 100 miles since I fitted it all!
 

Moniek88

Registered User
If you’re interested I have S4 uprights for sale so no need for brackets to fit the 18z calipers, they’re ready for the 18z’s too with the grinding done

also selling a complete 18z setup with refurbed calipers and everything else is new, only covered 100 miles since I fitted it all!
Hey, The uprights and all the brakes are sorted now mate, thanks anyway.
I just did not have the time to post any updates, there was a lot happening, stripped the engine, realised that I need another block. So got an AWT from a passat with 06A block. Need all intake side brackets if anyone got some for sale. I`m after forged roods 20mm pin (not Chinese or maxspeedingrods). Pistons 20mm needed as well.
 

desertstorm

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
VCDS Map User
I wouldn't diss all Chinese Rods, You would be surprised at the amount of stuff made in China tthese days. They are able to make stuff to similar quality levels as any European manufacturer. Bought an FAG Schaffler CV joint the other day. Made in Chinas on the box.
When I rebuilt my 1.8T track car for the second time after a Wossner piston failure decided to go with some Hurricane I beam rods from Badger 5. Had IE H beam rods on the car initially and although these are good they have been known to fail when running over 500bhp.
Badger 5 have built many 500bhp plus engines with these rods and Hurricane also make the rods for Pro Race Engineering.
https://badger5.co.uk/engine-parts/hurricane-144mm-x-20mm-rifle-drilled-rods
If you are looking for pistond DO NOT fit Wossner . They simply are no good in the 1.8t. Have a look at my TT build thread if you want to see why.
 

Moniek88

Registered User
I wouldn't diss all Chinese Rods, You would be surprised at the amount of stuff made in China tthese days. They are able to make stuff to similar quality levels as any European manufacturer. Bought an FAG Schaffler CV joint the other day. Made in Chinas on the box.
When I rebuilt my 1.8T track car for the second time after a Wossner piston failure decided to go with some Hurricane I beam rods from Badger 5. Had IE H beam rods on the car initially and although these are good they have been known to fail when running over 500bhp.
Badger 5 have built many 500bhp plus engines with these rods and Hurricane also make the rods for Pro Race Engineering.
https://badger5.co.uk/engine-parts/hurricane-144mm-x-20mm-rifle-drilled-rods
If you are looking for pistond DO NOT fit Wossner . They simply are no good in the 1.8t. Have a look at my TT build thread if you want to see why.
I understand that china can and do make good quality parts. I`ll most likely go with bager5 H or I beam rods are rather spend a bit extra and forget about it. Regarding pistons i was planning to stay with oem as not planning to get above 500hp, however if i can find a set in a good price I`ll probably get them.
I`ll take a look at your TT build when got spare 5 min.
 

midas

Registered User
Some quality work done on your car buddy. I can appreciate the difficulty and nightmares you will have had with seized bolts etc.

Couple questions though, as I’m trying to restore my own TQS at the moment, have my own build thread too.

- Bottom pulley, did you remove the bottom gear as well? In order to replace the front oil seal? Noticed yours had peaked all over the outer covers as well. What tool did you use to hold the gear whilst you removed the crank bolt?

- Was there much play in the rear diff at all? I’ve acquired a rear diff, and considering refurbishing it, with a view to swapping it out with my own. Not sure how much float within the diff gears there should be however.

- Propshaft, I acquired this when I got the diff. So going to refurb this too. Did you get new end joints too? Or just change the centre bearing?

Im really hoping that by changing the centre prop after a refurb, and rebuilding the driveshafts I also acquired, a lot of the play which makes the clunks, can be removed.

Really good work, keep it up. Impressed with your detail. I hope my detail is the same when I get to work on my suspension.
 

Moniek88

Registered User
Some quality work done on your car buddy. I can appreciate the difficulty and nightmares you will have had with seized bolts etc.

Couple questions though, as I’m trying to restore my own TQS at the moment, have my own build thread too.

- Bottom pulley, did you remove the bottom gear as well? In order to replace the front oil seal? Noticed yours had peaked all over the outer covers as well. What tool did you use to hold the gear whilst you removed the crank bolt?

- Was there much play in the rear diff at all? I’ve acquired a rear diff, and considering refurbishing it, with a view to swapping it out with my own. Not sure how much float within the diff gears there should be however.

- Propshaft, I acquired this when I got the diff. So going to refurb this too. Did you get new end joints too? Or just change the centre bearing?

Im really hoping that by changing the centre prop after a refurb, and rebuilding the driveshafts I also acquired, a lot of the play which makes the clunks, can be removed.

Really good work, keep it up. Impressed with your detail. I hope my detail is the same when I get to work on my suspension.

Hey,

What engine code do you onw mate?

I always use impact gun to remove the crank bolts, there is no need to hold anything that way.

There is some play in the diff abut not sure what play is allowed. No I`ve used my old joints as there where ok, just sandblasted them and painted.

The clunk can be associated with centre bearing, diff suspension front or rear. Remember to mark the prop shaft before dismantling.

Good luck mate
 

midas

Registered User
My engine code is an AJL. I’ve just bought a big torque impact gun. But on all the how-to’s it shows a big bar being using which bolts to the bottom cog, so you can then undo the big crank bolt.

I need to have a proper check of my drivetrain. Installed an ECS front mount on the diff, which just made it worse. Got a refurbished rear diff mount to install. Then it’s prop and driveshaft examination time.

Good work you’ve done so far. I hope I get time to put as much effort into mine this year. I’ve certainly got all the bits to do it.
 
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